What you see here are the results of these tests. Typed directly from Army TM 31-210 and Desert Publication's Black Book Vol. III. Disclaimer: I take absolutely no responsibility for the use of this material, whether it be direct or indirect. What I have done here is simply provide this information for one purpose only (har har) and that is for informational purposes only. All information here, however, should be taken as seriously as the bible. You can very easily fuck up and get killed. Please be very, very careful (shit, i sound like your mother) when dealing with any of the items presented here. Note especially the section on improvised pistols. thanx. and by god... HAVE PHUN! What would you guys like next? (note: the first (good) part of the poor mans james bond is in the works.. I am sick of seeing all of his good book trashed into many files, so I will present it (like this) in volume form..) Poor mans James bond (first section only... its all that is good) Anarchist cookbook (oohhhh nooo...) Principles of Improvised Explosive Devices (a bunch of switches and initiators) FM 5-20 Camouflage Complete guide to lock picking Get Even I and II TM 31-200-1 Unconventional warfare- both of these are about sabotage mainly TM 31-201-1 Unconventional warfare references Grandads Book of Chemistry (are you kidding?) FM 3-50-1 Deliberate Smoke Operations (just for that HS lunchroom...) FM 23-30 Grenades and Pyrotechnics ST 21-75-3 Dismounted Patroling FM 5-15 Field Fortification U.S. Navy Seal Manual- underwater demolitions, etc.. good book. Improvised Munition Systems Special Forces Handbook Special Forces Operational Techniques Anarchist HANDBOOK Weaponeer (another from 'ole Kurt Saxon) Imp. Weapons of Modern Ninja (supposed to be good, its on order..) IMPROVISED MUNITIONS Black Books Vols. I, II, and III "Nothing added, nothing taken away" Typed by The Mad Cracker
Plastic Explosive Filler Sec I, No.
I
A plastic explosive filler can be made
from potassium chlorate and petroleum jelly. This explosive can be detonated
with a commercial #8 or any military blasting cap.
Materials Sources --------- -------
Potassium chlorate Medicine, match heads (white) Petroleum jelly (vaseline)
Medicine, Lubricant Round stick Wide bowl or other container for mixing
Procedure --------- 1. Spread potassium
chlorate crystals thinly on a hard surface. Roll the round stick over crystals
to crush into a very fine powder or wheat flower. 2. Place 9 parts powdered
potassium chlorate and 1 part petroleum jelly in a wide bowl or similar
container. Mix ingredients with hands until a uniform paste is obtained.
Note: Store in a waterproof container until ready to use. Potassium Nitrate
Sec. I, No. 2 Potassium nitrate can be extracted from many natural sources
and can be used to make nitric acid, black powder and many pyrotechnics.
The yield ranges from .1 to 10% by weight, depending on the fertility of
the soil.
Materials Sources --------- -------
Nitrate bearing earth or other material, Soil containing old decayed about
3.5- gallons (13.5 liters) vegetable or animal matter Old cellars/farm
floors, earth from old burial grounds, decayed stone or mortar building
foundations. Fine wood ashes, about .5 cup (1/8 liter) totally burned whitish
wood ash powder, totally black paper Bucket, about 5 gallons (19 l) in
volume 2 pieces finely woven cloth, each slightly bigger than the bottom
of the bucket shallow pan or dish, at least as large as the bottom of bucket
Shallow heat resistant container (ceramic, metal, etc.) Water- 1.75 gallons
(6.75 l) Awl, knife, or screwdriver, or other hole punching tool alcohol
- 1 gallon (4 l) can be whiskey, rubbing, etc. heat source paper tape Note:
Only the ratios of the amounts of ingredients are important. Thus, for
twice as much, double all quantities.
Procedure --------- 1. Punch holes
in bottom of bucket. Spread one piece of cloth over holes inside bucket.
2. Place wood ashes on cloth and spread to make a layer about the thickness
of the cloth. Place second piece of cloth on top of ashes. 3. Place dirt
in bucket. 4. Place bucket over shallow container. Bucket may be supported
on sticks if necessary. 5. Boil water and pour it over earth in bucket
a little at a time. Allow water to run through holes in bucket into shallow
container. Be sure water goes through all the earth. Allow drained liquid
to cool and settle for 1 to 2 hours. Note: Do not pour all the water at
once, as this may cause stoppage. 6. Carefully drain off liquid into heat
resistant container. Discard any sludge remaining in bottom of the shallow
container. 7. Boil mixture over hot fire for at least 2 hours. Small grains
of salt will begin to appear in the solution. Scoop these out as they form,
using any type of improvised strainer (paper, etc) 8. When liquid has boilded
down to approx. half its original volume, remove from fire and let sit.
After half an hour, add an equal volume of alcohol. When mixture is poured
through paper, small white crystals will collect on top of it. 9. To purify
the potassium nitrate, re-dissolve the dry crystals in the smallest possible
amount of boiled water. Remove any salt crystals that appear (step 7);
pour through an improvised filter made of several pieces of paper and evaporate
of gently heat the concentrated solution to dryness. 10. Spread crystals
on plat surface and allow to dry. The crystals are now ready to use.
Improvised Black Powder Sec. I, No.
3 Black powder can be prepared in a simple, safe manner. It may be used
as blasting or gun powder.
Materials Sources --------- -------
Potassium nitrate, granulated 3 cups (.75 l) see Sec. I, No. 2) Wood charcoal,
powdered, 2 cups (.5 l) Sulfur, powdered, .5 cup (1/8 l) Alcohol, 5 pints
(2.5 l) whiskey, rubbing, etc. water 3 cups, (.75 l) heat source 2 buckets-
each 2 gallon (7.5 l) cap., one of which must be heat resistant (metal,
ceramic) Flat window screen 1 foot square large wooden stick cloth, 2 ft.
sq. Procedure --------- 1. Place alcohol in one of the buckets. 2. Place
potassium nitrate, charcoal, and sulfur in the heat resistant bucket. Add
1 cups water and mix thoroughly with wooden stick until all ingredients
are dissolved. 3. Add remaining water (2 cups) to mixture. Place bucket
on heat source and stir until small bubbles begin to form. Note: Do NOT
boil mixture. Be sure all mixture stays wet. If any is dry, as on sides
of pan, it maignite. 4. Remove bucket from heat and pour mixture into alcohol
while stirring vigorously. 5. Let alcohol mixture stand about 5 minutes.
Strain mixture through cloth to obtain black powder. Discard liquid. Wrap
cloth around black powder and squeeze to remove all excess liquid. 6. Place
screening over dry bucket. Place workable amount of damp powder on screen
and granulate by rubbing solid through screen. Note: If granulated particles
appear to stick together and change shape, recombine entire batch of powder
and repeat steps 5 and 6. 7. Spread granulated powder on flat dry surface
so that layer about .5" (1.25 cm) is formed. Allow to dry. Use radiator,
or direct sunlight. This should be dried as soon as possible, preferably
in one hour. The longer the drying period, the less effective the black
powder. Note: Remove from here as soon as granules are dry. Black powder
is now ready for use. Nitric Acid Sec. I, No. 4 Nitric acid is used in
the preparation of many explosives, incendiary mixtures and acid delay
timers. It may be prepared by distilling a mixture of potassium nitrate
and concentrated sulfuric acid.
Materials Sources --------- -------
Potassium nitrate (2 parts by volume) Drug store, improvised, (Sec. I No.
2) Concentrated sulfuric acid (1 part by vol) motor vehicle batteries,
industrial plants 2 bottles or ceramic jugs (narrow necks preferable) pot
or frying pan Heat source Tape (paper, electrical, not cellophane) Paper
or rags Note: If sulfuric acid is obtained from motor vehicles, it must
be concentrated by boiling until white fumes appear. Do NOT inhale fumes.
Also, the amount of nitric acid produced is the same as the amount of potassium
nitrate used, so for 2 tablespoons of nitric acid, use 2 tablespoons potassium
nitrate and 1 tablespoon sulfuric acid.
Procedure --------- 1. Place dry potassium
nitrate in bottle or jug. Add sulfuric acid. Do not fill more than 1/4
full Mix until a paste is formed. Note: Treat sulfuric acid like any other
acid, wash affected skin with water, and dont inhale the fucking fumes.
2. Wrap paper or rags around necks of 2 bottles. Securly tape necks of
bottles together. Be sure bottles are flush against each other and that
there are no air spaces. 3. Support bottles on rocks or cans so that empty
bottle is slightly lower than bottle sontaining paste so that nitric acid
is formed in receiving bottle will not run into other bottle. 4. Build
fire in pot or frying pan. 5. Gently heat bottle containing mixture by
moving fire in and out. As red fumes begin to appear periodically pour
cold water over empty receiving bottle. Nitric acid will begin to form
in the receiving bottle. Note: Do not overheat or wet bottle containing
mixture or it may shatter. As an added protection, place bottle to be hated
in a heat resistant container filled with sand or gravel. Hear this outer
container to produce nitric acid. 6. Continue the above process until no
more red fumes are formed. If the nitric acid formed in the receiving bottle
is not clear (cloudy) pour it into cleaned bottle and repeat steps 2-6.
Note: Do not inhale fumes, and nitric acid should be stored in a sealed
glass or ceramic container. Initiator for dust explosions Sec I, No. 5
An initiator which will initiate common material to produce dust explosions
can be rapidly and easily constructed. This type of charge is ideal for
the destruction of enclosed areas such as rooms or buildings.
Materials Sources --------- -------
a flat can, 3 in. (8 cm) in diameter and 1-1.5 in. (3-3.75 cm) in height.
A 6.5 oz. Tuna can serves the purpose quite well blasting cap explosive
aluminum (may be wire, cust sheet, flat can, or powder) large nail, 4 in.
(10 cm) long wooden rod, .25 in. (6 mm) in diameter flour, gasoline, and
powder or chipped aluminum Note: Plastic explosives (comp. C4, etc.) produce
larger explosions that cast explosives (comp. B, etc).
Procedure --------- 1. Using the nail,
press a hole through the side of the Tuna can 3/8 to 1/2 in. (1-1.5 cm)
from the bottom. Using a rotating a lever action, enlarge the hole until
it will accomodate the blasting cap. 2. Place the wodden rod in the hole
and position the end of the rod at the center of the can. 3. Press explosive
into the can, being sure to surround the rod, until it is 3/4 in. (2 cm)
from top of the can. Carefully remove the wooden rod. 4. Place the aliminum
metal on top of the explosive. 5. Just before use, insert the blasting
cap into the cavity made by the rod. The initiator is now ready for use.
Note: If it is desired to carry the initiator some distance, cardboard
may be pressed on top of the aluminum to insure against loss of material.
How to Use ---------- This particular
unit works quite well to initiate charges of five pounds of flour, 1/2
gallon (1 2/3 l) of gasoline or two pounds of flake painters aluminum.
The solid materials may merely be contained in sacks or cardboard cartons.
The gasoline may be placed in plastic coated paper milk cartons, plastic
or glass bottles. The charges are placed directly on top of the initiator
and the blasting cap is actuated electrically or by fuse depending on the
type of cap used. This will destroy a 2,000 cubic feet enclosure (building
10x20x10 feet) Note: For larger enclosures, use proportionally larger initiators
ad charges. _______________________ | | | flour, gas, etc. | |_______________________|
|_______| <- aluminum flake top layer | | | _-_-_| <- explosive here
(surrounding cap) |____^__|\\ ^ \\ cap \\ <- wires to cap Fertilizer
Explosive Sec. I, No. 6 An explosive munition can be made from fertilizer
grade ammonium nitrate and either fuel oil or a mixture of equal parts
of motor oil and gasoline. When properly prepared, this explosive can be
detonated with a blasting cap. Materials Sources --------- ------- Ammonium
nitrate (not less than 32% nitrogen) farm, feed stores Fuel oil or gasoline
and motor oil (1:1) cars, trucks Two flat boards, One which can be comfortably
held in the hand, i.e., 2"x4", and 36"x36" Bucket or other container for
mixing items Iron or steel pipe or bottle, tin can or heavy walled cardboard
tube blasting cap wooden rod, 1/4" in. diameter spoon or similar measuring
container
Procedure --------- 1. Spread a hadful
of the ammonium nitrate (an) on the large flat board and rub vigorously
with the other board until the large particles are crushed into a very
fine powder that looks like flour (approx. 10 min. per handful) Note: Continue
with step 2 as soon as possible, since the powder may take moisture from
the air and become spoiled. 2. Mix on measure (cup, tablespoon, etc) of
fuel oil with 16 measures of the finely ground AN in a dry bucket or other
suitable container and stir with the wooden rod. If fuel oil is not available,
use one half measure of motor oil. Store in a waterproof container until
ready to use. 3. Spoon this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has
and end cap threaded on one end. If a pipe is not available, you may use
a dry tin can, a glass jar or a heavy-walled cardboard tube. Note: Take
care not to tamp or shake the mixture in the pipe. If mixture becomes tightly
packed, one cap will not be sufficient to initiate the explosive. 4. Insert
blasting cap just beneath the surface of the explosive mix. Note: Confining
the open end of the container will add to the effectiveness of the explosive.
Carbon Tet Explosive Sec. I, No. 7 A moist explosive can be made from fine
aluminum powder combined with carbon tetrachloride or tetrachloroethylene.
This explosive can be detonated with a blasting cap.
Materials Sources --------- -------
Fine aluminum bronzing powder paint and artists supplies Carbon tetrachloride
Pharmacy, or fire extingusher or liquid tetrachloroethylene dry cleaners
stirring rod (wood) Mixing container Measuring container storage container
with lid blasting cap pipe, can or jar Procedure --------- 1. Measure out
two parts aluminum powder to one part carbon tetrachloride or tetrachloroethylene
liquid into the mixing container, adding liquid to powder while stirring
with the wooden rod. 2. Stir until the mixture becomes the consistency
of honey syrup. Note: Fumes from the liquid are dangerous and should not
be inhaled. 3. Store explosive in a jar or similar waterproof container
until ready to use. The liquid in the mixture evaporates quickly when not
confined. Note: Liquid will detonate in this manner for a period of 72
hours.
How to Use ---------- 1. Pour this
mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap threaded on one
end. If a pipe is not available, you may use a dry tin can or a glass jar.
2. Insert blasting cap just beneath the surface of the explosive mix. Note:
Confining the open end of the explosive will add to the effectiveness of
the explosive. Fertilizer AN-AL Explosive Sec. I, No. 8 A dry explosive
mixture can be made from ammonium nitrate fertilizer combined with fine
aluminum powder. This explosive can be detonated with a blasting cap.
Materials Sources --------- -------
Ammonium Nitrate fertilizer (not less than Farm and feed stores 32% nitrogen)
fine aluminum bronzing powder paint or artists supply Measuring container
Mixing container two flat boards (one should be comfortably held in the
had and one very large, i.e., 2"x4" and 36"x36") Storage container Blasting
cap Wooden rod- .25 in. in diameter pipe, can or jar Procedure ---------
1. Method I- low velocity explosive A. Use measuring container to measure
four parts fertilizer to one part aluminum powder and pour into the mixing
container. (ex. 4 cups fertilizer to 1 cup aluminum powder) B. Mix ingredients
with the wooden rod 2. Method II- high velocity explosive A. Spread a handful
at a time of AN on the large flat board and rub vigorously with the other
board until the large particles are crushed into a very fine powder that
looks like flour. (approx. 10 min. per handful) Note: Proceed with step
B below as soon as possible since the powder may take moisture from the
air and become spoiled. B. Follow steps A and B of Method I. 3. Store the
explosive mixture in a waterproof container, such as a flass jar, steel
pipe, etc., until ready to use. How to Use ---------- Follow steps 1 and
2 of "How to Use" in section I, No. 7. Red or White powder propellant Sec.
I, No. 9 Red or White powder propellant may be prepared in a simple, safe
manner. The formulation described below will result in approx. 2.5 lbs.
of powder. This is a small arms propellant and should only be used in weapons
with .5 in. inside diameter or less, such as the match gun, or the 7.62
carbine, but not pistols.
Materials Sources --------- -------
Heat source 2 gallon metal bucket Measuring cup (8 oz) Wooden spoon or
rubber spatula metal sheet or aluminum foil (at least 18 sq. in.) flat
window screen potassium nitrate (granulated)- 2.33 cups white sugar (granulated)-
2 cups powdered ferric oxide (rust)- 1/8 cup clear water- 3.5 cups
Procedure --------- 1. Place the sugar,
potassium nitrate (pn), and water in the bucket. Heat with a low flame,
stirring occasionally until the sugar and PN dissolve. 2. If available,
add the ferric oxide (rust) to the solution. Increase the flame under the
mixture until it boils gently. Note: The mixture will retain the rust coloration.
3. Stro and scrape the bucket sides occasionally until the mixture is reduced
to one quarter its original volume, then stir continuously. 4. As the water
evaporates, the mixture will become thicker until it reaches the consistency
of cooked breakfast cereal (yum!) or homemade fudge. At this stage of thickness,
remove the bucket from the hear source and spread the mass on the metal
sheet. 5. While the material cools, score it with the spoon or spatula
in crisscrossedfurrows about 1 inch apart. 6. Allow the material to air
dry, preferably in the sun. As it dries, rescore it occasionally (about
every 20 minutes) to aid drying. 7. When the material has dried to a point
to where it is moist and soft but not sticky to the touch, place a small
spoonful on the screen. Rub the aterial back and forth against the screen
mesh with a spoon or other flat object until the material is granulated
into small worm-like particles. 8. After granulation, return the material
to the sun to dry completely. Nitric Acid/nitrobenzene ("Hellhoffite")
explosive Sec. I, No. 10 An explosive munition can be made from mononitrobenzene
and nitric acid. It is a simple explosive to prepare. Just pour the nitrobenzene
into the acid and stir.
Materials Sources --------- -------
Nitric acid Field grade or 90% concentrated (specific gravity of 1.48)
Mononitrobenzene (nitrobenzene) drug store (oil of mirbane) or chemical
supply house Acid resistant measuring containers Glass, clay, etc. Acid
resistant stirring rod (glass, etc) Blasting cap Wax steel pipe, end cap,
tape bottle or jar Note: Prepare this mixture just before use.
Procedure --------- 1. Add 1 volume
(cup, quart, etc) of mononitrobenzene to two volumes nitric acid in a bottle
or jar. 2. Mix ingredients well by stirring with acid resistant rod. Note:
Nitric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash
well with water. Don't inhale the fumes!
How to Use ---------- 1. Wax blasting
cap, pipe and end cap. 2. Thread end cap onto pipe. 3. Pour mixture into
pipe. 4. Insert and tape blasting cap just beneath surface of mixture.
Note: Confining the open end will increase effectiveness of the weapon.
Optimized Process for Cellulose/Acid Exposive Sec. I, No. 11 An acid type
explosive can be made from nitric acid and white paper or cotton cloth.
This explosive can be detonated with a commercial #8 cap or any military
blasting cap.
Materials Sources --------- -------
Nitric acid Industrial metal processors, 90% concentrated (1.48 grvty.)
Field grade, (sec. I, No. 4) white unprinted, unsized paper paper towels,
napkins clean white cotton cloth clothing, sheets, better kmarts Acid resistant
container wax coated pipe or can, ceramic pipe, glass jar, etc. Aluminum
foil or acid resistant material food stores protective gloves blasting
cap wax Procedure --------- 1. Put on gloves. 2. Spread out a layer of
paper or cloth on aluminum foil and sprinkle with nitric acid until thoroughly
soaked. If aluminum foil is unavailable, use an acid resistant material
(glass, ceramic, etc) Note: Use same warning again for handling acid. 3.
Place another layer of paper or cloth on top of the acid-soaked sheet and
repeat step 2 above. Repeat as often as necessary. 4. Roll up the aluminum
foil containing the acid-soaked sheets and insert the roll into the acid
resistant container. Note: If glass or ceramic tray is used, pick up with
two wooden sticks and load into container. 5. Wax blasting cap. 6. Insert
the blasting cap in the center of the rolled sheets. Allow 5 min. before
detonating the explosive. Methyl Nitrate Dynamite Sec. I, No. 12 A moist
explosive mixture can be made from sulfuric acid, nitric acid and methyl
alcohol. This explosive can be detonated with a blasting cap.
Materials Source --------- ------ Sulfuric
Acid Clear battery acid boiled until white fumes appear Nitric Acid Field
grade, (sec. I, No. 4), sp. gravity of 1.48 Methyl alcohol methanol, wood
alcohol, non- permanant antifreeze eyedropper or styring with glass tube
large diameter glass (2 qt.) jar Narrow glass jars (1 qt.) Absorbent (fine
sawdust, shredded paper, shredded cloth) cup pan (3-5 gallon) teaspoon
wooden stick steel pipe with end cap blasting cap water tray
Procedure --------- 1. Add 24 teaspoons
of sulfuric acid to 16.5 teaspoons of nitric acid in the 2 qt. jar. 2.
Place the jar in the pan (3-5 gallon) filled with cold water or in a stream
and allow to cool. 3. Rapidly swirl the jar to create a whirlpool in the
liquid (without splashing) while keeping the bottom portion of the jar
in the water. 4. While continually swirling, add to mixture, .5 teaspoon
at a time, 13.5 teaspoons of methyl alcohol, allowing the mixture to cool
at least one minute between additions. DANGER! PELIGRO!- If there is a
sudden increase in the amount of fumes produced of if the solution turns
much darker or begins to froth, dump the solution in the water within 10
seconds! This will help lengthen your life, and prevent an accident. 5.
After the final addition of methyl alcohol, swirl for another 35-40 seconds.
6. Carefully pour the solution into one of the narrow glass jars. Allow
jar to stand in water for approx. 5 minutes until two layers separate.
7. With an eyedropper or styringe, remove top layer and CAREFULLY put into
another narrow glass jar. This liquid is the explosve. Note: Thought I
should tell you, this is shock sensitive. (very) 8. Add an equal quantity
of water to the explosive and swirl. Allow mixture to separate again as
in step 6. The explosive is now the bottom layer. 9. Carefully remove the
top layer with the eyedropper or styringe and discard. 10. Place one firmly
packed cup of absorbent in the tray. 11. While stirring with the wooden
stick, slowly add explosive until the mass is very damp but not wet enough
to drip. Explosive is ready to use. Note: If it gets too wet, add more
absorbent. If storage is required, store in a sealed container to prevent
evaporation. Do not allow this to touch the skin. If it does, flush with
large quantities of water. Keep grit, dirt, and sand out of the mix.
How to Use ---------- 1. Spoon this
mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap threaded on one
end. If a pipe is not available, you may use a dry tin can or a glass jar.
2. Insert blasting cap just beneath the surfacr of the explosive mix. Note:
Confining the other end will add to the effectivenessof the explosive.
Urea nitrate explosive Sec I, No. 13 Urea nitrate can be used as an explosive
munition. It is easy to prepare from nitric acid and urine. It can be detonated
with a blasting cap.
Materials Source --------- ------ Nitric
acid, (90%, 1.48 sp. gravity) Field grade (sec. I, No. 4) Urine Animals,
yes, humans too 2 one gallon heat and acid resistant containers (pyrex,
ceramic) Filtering material paper towel, fine cotton Aluminum powder (optional)
paint stores heat source measuring containers (cup and spoon) water tape
blasting cap steel pipe and cap Note: Prepare mixture just before
use.
Procedure --------- 1. Boil
a large quantity of urine (10 cups) to approx. 1/10 its volume (1 cup)
in one of the containers over the heat source. 2. Filter the urine into
the other container through the filtering material to remove impurities.
Use tape to secure filter onto jar. 3. Slowly add 1/3 cup of nitric acid
to the filtered urine, let stand for 1 hour. 4. Filter mixture as in step
2. Urea nitrate crystals will collect on the paper. 5. Wash the urea nitrate
by pouring water over it. 6. Remove urea nitrate crystals from the filtering
and allow to dry thoroughly (approx. 16 hours) Note: Drying time can be
reduced to two hours if a hot (not boiling) water bath is used. See step
5 of Sec I, No. 15.
How to Use ---------- 1. Spoon
urea nitrate crystals into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap screwed
on one end. 2. Insert blasting cap just beneath the surface of the urea
nitrate crystals. Note: This explosive can be made more effective by mixing
with aluminum powder (from paint stores) in the ratio of 4:1. One cup aluminum
powder to four cups urea nitrate. Capping the other end will add to the
effectiveness of the explosive. Preparation of Copper Sulfate (Pentahydrate)
Sec. I, No. 14 Copper sulfate is a required material for the preparation
of TACC. See section I, No. 16)
Materials Sources ---------
------- Pieces of copper or copper wire circuit boards, electronic stores
Dilute sulfuric acid (battery acid) Potassium nitrate (Sec. I, No. 2) or
Nitric Acid, (90%, 1.48 gr.)(Sec. I, No. 4) Alcohol water two 1 pint jars
or glasses, heat resistant paper towels pan wooden stick or rod improvised
scale cup container heat source teaspoon
Procedure --------- 1. Place
10 grams of copper pieces into one of the pint jars. Add 1 cup (240 ml)
of dilute sulfuric acid to the copper. 2. Add 12 grams of potassium nitrate
or 1.5 teaspoons of nitric acid to the mixture. Note: Nitric Acid gives
a product of greater purity. 3. Heat the mixture in a pan of simmering
hot water hath until the bubbling has ceased (approx. 2 hours). The mixture
will turn to a blue color. 4. Pour the hot blue solution, but not the copper,
into the other pint jar. Allow solution to cool at room temperature. Discard
the unreacted copper pieces in the first jar. 5. Carefully pour away the
liquid from the crystals. Crush crystals into a powder with a wooden rod
or stick. 6. Add .5 cup (120 ml) of alcohol to the powder while stirring.
7. Filter the solution through a paper towel into a container to collect
the crystals. Wash the crystals left on the paper towel three times, using
.5 cup (120 ml) portions of alcohol each time. 8. Air dry the copper sulfate
crystals for 2 hours. Note: Drying time can be reduced to .5 hour by use
of hot, not boiling, water bath (see step 3). Reclamation of RDX from C4
Sec. I, No. 15 Rdx can be obtained from C4 explosive with the sue of gasoline.
It can be used as a booster explosive for detonators (Sec. VI, No. 13)
or as a high explosive charge.
Materials Sources ---------
------- Gasoline C4 plastique 2 pint glass jars, wide mouth water --------|
| ceramic or glass dish | | pan | optional, it may be air | dried heat
source | | teaspoon | | cup | | tape --------| Procedure --------- 1. Place
1.5 teaspoons (15 grams) of C4 in one of the pint jars. Add one cup (240
ml) of gasoline. Note: These quantities can be increased to obtain more
RDX. For example, use 2 gallons of gasoline per 1 cup of C4. 2. Knead and
stir the C4 with the rod until the C4 has broken down into small particles.
Allow mixture to stand for .5 hour. 3. Stir the mixture again until a fine
white powder remains on the bottom of the jar. 4. Filter the mixture through
a paper towel into the other glass jar. Wash the particles collected on
the paper twoel with .5 cup (120 ml) of gasoline. Discard the waste liquid.
5. Place the RDX particles in a glass or ceramic disk. Set the dish in
a pan of hot water, not boiling, and dry for a period of 1 hour. Note:
RDX can be air dried for 2 to 3 hours. TACC (Tetramminecopper (II) Chlorate
Sec. I, No. 16 TACC is a primary explosive that can be made from sodium
chlorate, copper sulfate and ammonia. This eplosive is to be used with
a booster explosive such as picric acid (Sec. I, No. 21) or RDX (Sec. I,
No. 15) in the fabrication of detonators (Sec. VI, No. 13).
Materials Sources ---------
------- Sodium Chlorate Sec. I, No. 23, medicine Copper sulfate Weed killer,
hardware store, Sec. I, No. 14 Ammonia hydroxide household ammonia, smelling
salts, water purifier alcohol, 95% wax, clay, pitch, etc. water bottle,
narrow mouth (wine or coke) bottles, wide mouth (mason jars) tubing (copper,
steel) to fit around mouth bottle teaspoon improvised scale Sec, VII, No.
8 heat source paper towel pan tape cup
Procedure --------- 1. Measure
1/3 teaspoon (2.5 grams) of sodium chlorate into a wide mouth bottle. Add
10 teaspoons alcohol. 2. Place the wide mouth bottle in a pan of hot water.
Add 1 teaspoon (4 g) of copper sulfate to the mixture. Heat for a period
of 30 minutes just under the boiling point and stir occasionally. Note:
Keep away from flame. Keep volume constant by adding additional alcohol
approx. every 10 minutes. 3. Remove solution from pan and allow to cool.
Color of solution will change from a blue to a light green. Filter solution
through a paper towel into another wide mouth bottle. Store until ready
for step 6. 4. Add 1 cup (250 Ml) of ammonia to the narrow mouth bottle.
5. Place tubing into neck of bottle so that it extends about 1.5 in (4
cm) inside bottle. Seal tubing to bottle with wax, clay, pitch, etc. 6.
Place free end of tubing into the chlorate-alcohol-sulfate solution (step
3). Heat bottle containing ammonia in a pan of hot, but not boiling water,
for approx. 10 minutes. 7. Bubble ammonia gas through the chlorate-alcohol-sulfate
solution approx. 10 minutes, until the color changes from light gree to
dark blue. COntinue bubbling for another 10 minutes. Note: Mixture is now
primary explosive, keep from flame. 8. Remove the solution from the pan
and reduce the volume to about 1/3 of its original volume by evaporating
in the open air or ina stream of air. Note: Pour container into a flat
container for faster evaporation. 9. Filter the solution through a paper
towel into a wide mouth bottle to collect crystals. Wash crystals with
1 teaspoon of alcohol and set aside to dry (approx. 16 hours) Drying time
can be reduced to 2 hours if a hot, not boiling, water bath is used. Note:
Explosive is shock and flame sensitive. Store in a capped container. HMTD
Sec I, No. 17 HMTF is a primary explosive that can be made from hexamethylenetetramine,
hydrogen peroxide, and citric acid. This explosive is to be used with a
boosterr explosive such as picric acid (Sec I, No. 21) or RDX (Sec. I,
No. 15) in the fabrication of detonators (Sec VI, No. 13).
Materials Sources ---------
------- Hexamethylenetetramine Drugstore under names of urotropine, hexamine,
methenamine, etc. Army heat tablets (sterno?) Hydrogen Peroxide 6% hair
bleach or stronger Citric Acid Drug or Food stores, known as "sour salt"
Containers, bottles or glasses paper towels teaspoon pan water tape
Procedure --------- 1. Measure
9 teaspoons of hydrogen peroxide into a container 2. In 3 portions, dissolve
2.5 teaspoons of crushed hexamethylenetetramine (hexa) in the peroxide.
3. Keep the solution cool for 30 minutes by placing container in a pan
of cold water. 4. In 5 portions, dissolve 4.5 teaspoons of crushed citric
acid in the hexa- peroxide solution. 5. Permite solution to stand at room
temperatire until solid particles for at the bottom of the container. Note:
Complete precipitation will take place in 8-24 hours 6. Filter the mixture
through a paper towel into a container to collect the solid particles.
7. Wash the solid particles collected in the paper towel with 6 teaspoons
of water by pouring the water over them. Discard the liquid in the container.
8. Place these explosives in a container and allow to dry. Note: Handle
dry explosive with great care. Do not scrape or handle it roughly. Keep
from open sparks or flames. Store in a cool, dry place. Potassium or Sodium
Nitrite and Litharge (lead monoxide) Sec. I, No. 18 Potassium or sodium
nitrate is needed to prepare DDNP (Sec. I, No. 19) and litharge is required
for the preparation of lead picrate (Sec. I, No. 20)
Materials Sources ---------
------- Lead metal (small pieces or chips) Plumbing supply Potassium or
sodium nitrite Field grade (Sec. I, No. 2) or drug store Methyl (wood)
alcohol Iron pipe with end cap Iron rod or screwdriver Paper towels 2 glass
jars, wide mouth metal pan heat source (hot coals or blow torch) improvised
scale (Sec VII, No. 8) cup water pan
Procedure --------- 1. Mix
12 grams of lead and 4 grams of potassium or sodium nitrite in a jar. Place
the mixture in the iron pipe. 2. Heat iron pipe in a bed of hot coals or
with a blow torch for 30 minutes to one hour. (mixture will turn yellow)
3. Remove the iron pipe from the heat source and allow to cool. Chip out
the yellow material formed in the iron pipe and place the chips in the
glass jar. 4. Add .5 cup (120 ml) of methyl alcohol to the chips. 5. Heat
the glass jar containing the mixture in a hot water bath for approx. 2
minutes. Heat until there is a noticeable reaction between chips and alcohol;
solution will turn darker. 6. Filter themixture through a paper towel into
the other glass jar. The material left of the paper towel is lead monoxide.
7. Remove the lead monoxide and wash it twice through a paper towel using
.5 cup of hot water each time. Air dry before using. 8. Place the jar with
the liquid (step 6) in a hot water bath (as in step 5) and heat until the
alcohol is evaporated. The powder remaining in the jar after evaporation
is potassium or sodium nitrite. Note: Nitrite has a strong tendency to
absorb water from the atmosphere and should be stored in a closed container.
DDNP Sec. I, No. 19 DDNP is a primary explosive used in the fabrication
of detonators (Sec. I, No. 13). It is to be used with a booster explosive
such as picric acid (Sec. I, No. 21) or RDX (Sec. I, No. 15).
Materials Sources ---------
------- Picric acid Sec. I, No. 21 Flowers of sulfur drug store lye (sodium
hydroxide) Red devil(tm) sink unstopper sulfuric acid, diluted motor vehicle
batteries Potassium or sodium nitrite Sec. I, No. 18 Water 2 glass cups,
pyrex stirring rod (glass or wood) Improvised scale Sec VII, No. 8 teaspoon
tablespoon eyedropper heat source containers tape
Procedure --------- 1. In one
of the glass cups, mix .5 gram of lye with 2 tablespoons (30ml) of warm
water. 2. Dissolve 1 teaspoon (3 grams) of picric acid in the water-lye
mixture. Store until ready for step 5. 3. Place .25 teaspoon (1ml) of water
in the other glass cup. Add .5 teaspoon (2.5 grams) of sulfur and 1/3 teaspoon
(2.5 g) of lye to the water. 4. Boil solution over heat source until color
turns dark red. Remove and allow solution to cool. 5. In three portions,
add this sulfur-lye solution to the picric acid-lye solution (step 2);
stir while pouring. Allow mixture to cool. 6. Filter the mixture through
a paper towel into a container. Small red particles will collect on the
paper. Discard the liquid in the container. 7. Dissolve the red particles
in .25 cup (60 ml) of boiling water. 8. Remove and filter the mixture through
a paper towel, as in step 6. Discard the particles left on the paper. 9.
Using an eyedropper, slowly add the sulfuric acid to the filtered solution
until it turns orange-brown. 10. Add .5 teaspoon (2.5 g) more sulfuric
acid to the solution. Allow the solution to cool to room temperature. 11.
In a separate container, dissolve .25 teapsoon (1.8 g) of potassium or
sodium nitrite in 1/3 cup (80 ml) of water. 12. Add this solution in one
portion, while stirring, to the orange-brown solution. Allow the mixture
to stand for 10 minutes. The mixture will turn light brown. Note: Mixture
is now primary explosive. Keep from sparks and flames. 13. Filter the mixture
through a paper towel. Wash the particles left on the paper with 4 teaspoons
(20 ml) of water. 14. Allow paricles to dry, approx. 16 hours. Drying time
can be reduced to two hours if a hot (not boiling) water bath is used.
See Sec. I, No. 16. Note: Explosive is flame and shock sensitive. Store
in a capped container. Preparation of lead picrate Sec. I, No. 20 Lead
picrate is used as a primary explosive in the fabrication of detonators
(Sec. VI, No. 13). It is to be used with a booster exlosive such as picric
acid (Sec. I, No. 21) or RDX (Sec. I, NO. 15).
Materials Sources ---------
------- Litharge (lead monoxide) Sec. I, No. 18 or plumbing store Picric
acid Sec. I, No. 21 Wood alcohol (methanol) Paint remove, some antifreezes
wooden or plastic rod dish or saucer (china or glass) teaspoon improvised
scale Sec. VII, No. 8 containers Flat pan Heat source (Optional) Water
(optional)
Procedure --------- 1. Weigh
2 grams each of picric acid and lead monoxide. Place each in a separate
container. 2. Place 2 teaspoons (10 ml) of the alcohol in a dish. Add the
picric acid to the alcohol and stir with the wooden or plastic rod. 3.
Add the lead monoxide to the mixture while stirring. Note: Mixture is now
primary explosive, keep from spark or flame. 4. Continue stirring the mixture
until the alcohol has evaporated. The mixture will suddenly thicken. 5.
Stir mixture occasionally (to stop lumps from forming) until a powder is
formed. A few lumps will remain. Note: Be very careful of dry material
forming one the inside of the container. 6. Spread this powdered mixture,
the lead picrate, in a flat pan to air dry. Note: If possible, dry the
mixture in a hot, not boiling, water bath for a period of two hours. Preparation
of Picric Acid from asprin Sec. I, No. 21 Picric acid can be used as a
booster explosive in detonators (Sec. VI, No. 13), a high explosive charge,
or as an intermediate to preparing lead picrate (Sec. I, No. 20) or DDNP
(Sec. I, No. 19)
Materials Sources ---------
------- Aspirin tablets (5 grains per tablet) drugstore, kmart alcohol,
95% pure Sulfuric acid, concentrated (boil until white fumes appear) potassium
nitrate (Sec. I, No. 2) Water paper towels cleaning jar, 1 pint rod (glass
or wood) glass containers ceramic or glass dish cup teaspoon tablespoon
pan heat source tape
Procedure --------- 1. Crush
20 aspirin tablets in a glass container. Add 1 teaspoon of water and work
into a paste. 2. Add approx. 1/3 to 1/2 cup of alcohol (100 ml) to the
aspirin paste; stir while pouring. 3. Filter the alcohol-aspirin solution
through a paper towel into another glass container. Discard the solid left
on the paper towel. 4. Pour the filtered solution into a ceramic or glass
dish. 5. Evaporate the alcohol and water from the solution by placing the
dish into a pan of hot water. White powder will remain in the dish after
evaporation. Note: Water in pan should be at hot bath temperature, not
boiling, approx. 160 degrees to 180 degrees F. It should not burn the hands.
6. Pour 1/3 cup (80 ml) of concentrated sulfuric acid into a canning jar.
Add the white powder to the sulfuric acid. 7. Heat canning jar of sulfuric
acid in a pan of simmering hot water bath for 15 minutes; then remove jar
from the bath. Solution will turn to a yellow-orange color. 8. Add 3 level
teaspoons (15 g) of potassium nitrate in three portions to the yellow-orange
solution; stir vigorously during additions. Solution will turn red, then
back to a yellow-orange color. 9. Allow the solution to cool to ambient
or room temperature while stirring occasionally. 10. Slowly pour the solution,
while stirring, into 1.25 cup (300 ml) of cold water and allow to cool.
11. Filter the solution through a paper towel into a glass container. Light
yellow particles will collect on the paper towel. 12. Wash the light yellow
particles with 2 tablespoons (25 ml) of water. Discard the waste liquid
in the container. 13. Place particles in ceramic dish and set in a hot
water bath, as it step 5, for 2 hours. Double Salts Sec. I, No. 22 Double
salts is used as a primary explosive in the fabrication of detonators (Sec.
VI, No. 13). It can be made in the field from silver (coins), nitric acid,
calcium carbide, and water.
Materials Sources ---------
------- Nitric acid (90%) Sec. I, No. 4 Silver metal (silver coin, 5/8
in. in diameter) Calcium carbide (acetylele or calcium carbide lamps) rubber
and glass tubing (approx. 1/4 in. inside diameter) paper towels heat resistant
bottles or ceramic jugs, 1 to 2 qt. capacity, and one cork to fit. (Punch
hole in cork to fir tubing) teaspoon *aluminum, stainless steel or wax-coated)
or equivalent measure glass container heat source long narrow jar (olive
jar) tape water alcohol Procedure --------- 1. Dilute 2/25 teaspoons of
nitric acid with 1.5 teaspoons of water in a glass container by adding
the acid to the water. 2. Dissolve a silver coin (a silver dime) in the
diluted nitric acid. The solution will turn to a green color. Note: It
may be necessary to warm the container to completely dissolve the silver
coin. Take the usual precautions when working with acid! 3. Pour solution
into a long narrow (olive) jar and place it in a bottle of hot water. Crystals
will form in the solution; heat until crystals dissolve. 4. While still
heating and after crystals have dissolved, place 10 teaspoons of calcium
carbide in another glass bottle and add 1 teaspoon of water. After the
reaction has started add another teaspoon of water. Then set up as shown.
---------------------------------------------------- <- rubber //--------------------------------------------------\\
tubing glass ||<-tubing continues into jar (olive) || tubing>>||___
__||__ | | | | | || |<-cork | |olive | | ______|| || ||______ | | jar
| | | || | | | w/ | | | || | | |silver| | | || | | | mix _______|____ acetylene
bubbles glass tubing>|| | | | / | | | || | | |______| <-water here (hot)
| || | |__________________| |calcium carbide & | | water | Heat source
here |____________________| 5. Bubble acetylene through the solution for
5 to 8 minutes. A brown vapor will be given off and white flakes will appear
in the silver solution. 6. Remove the solver solution from the heat source
and allow it to cool. Filter the solution through a paper towel into a
glass container. Green crystals will collect on the paper. 7. Wash the
solids collected on the paper towel with 12 teaspoons of alcohol. The solid
material will turn white while the solvent in the container will have a
green color. 8. Place the white solid material on a clean paper towel to
air dry. Note: Handle dry explosive with great care. Do not scrape or handle
it roughly. Keep from sparks or flame. Store in a cool, dry place. Sodium
Chlorate Sec. I, No. 23 Sodium chlorate is a strong oxidizer used in the
manufacture of explosives. it can be used in place of potassium chlorate
(see Sec. I, No. I).
Materials Sources ---------
------- 2 carbon or lead rods (1 in. diameter x dry cell batteries (2.5
in. 5 in. long) diameter x 7 in. long) or plumbing supply store salt, or
ocean water grocery store or ocean sulfuric acid, diluted motor vehicle
batteries motor vehicle water 2 wires, 16 gauge (3/64 in. diameter approx.)
6 ft. long, insulated gasoline 1 gallon glass jar, wide mouth (5 in. diameter
x 6 in. high, approx.) sticks string teaspoon trays cup heavy cloth knife
large flat pan or tray
Procedure --------- 1. Mix
.5 cup of salt into the one gallon glass jar with 3 liters (3 qts) of water.
2. Add 2 teaspoons of battery acid to the solution and stir vigorously
for 5 minutes. 3. Strip back about 4 in. of insulation from both end of
the two wires. 4. With knife and sticks shape 2 strips of wood 1 x 1/8
x 1.5. Tie the wood strips to the lead or carbon rods so that they are
1.5 inches apart. ___________ ___________ | | | | |\ | | /| | \ | | / |
| \--|==========================|--/ | | /--|==========================|--\
| | / | ^ | \ | |/ | ^ | \| | | ^ | | |\ | wood sticks | / | | \ | | /
| | \ |==========================| | | |==========================| | |
| | | | | <--1.5 in. apart --> | | |_________| |_________| 5. Connect
the rods to the battery in the motor vehicle with the insulated wire. 6.
Submerge 4.5 in. of the rods into the salt water solution. 7. With gear
in neutral position start the vehicles engine. Depress the accelerator
approx. 1/5 of its full travel. 8. Run the engine with the accelerator
in this postition for 2 hours; then; shut it down for 2 hours. 9. Repeat
this cycle for a total of 64 hours while maintaining the level of the acid-salt
water solution in the glass jar. Note: This arrangement employs voltages
which may be dangerous to personnel. Do not touch the bare wire leads while
the engine is running. 10. Shut off the engine. Remove the rods from the
glass jar and disconnect wire leads from the battery. 11. Filter the solution
through the heavy cloth into a flat pan or tray, leaving the sediment at
the bottom of the glass jar. 12. Allow the water in the filtered solution
to evaporate at room temperature (approx. 16 hours). The residuew is approx
60% or more sodium chlorate which is pure enough to be used as an explosive
ingredient. Mercury Fulminate Sec. I, No. 24 Mercury fulminate is used
as a primary explosive in the fabrication of detonators (Sec. VI, No. 13).
It is to be used with a booster explosive such as picric acid (Sec. I,
No. 21) or RDX (Sec. I, No. 15). Materials Sources --------- ------- Nitric
Acid (90%) 1.48 gr. field grade (Sec. I, No. 4) or industrial metal processors
mercury thermometers, old radio tubes ethyl (grain) alcohol (90%) filtering
material teaspoon measure (.25, .5, and 1 teaspoon capacity) aluminum,
stainless steel, or wax coated heat source clean wooden stick clean water
glass containers tape styringe
Procedure --------- 1. Dilute
5 teaspoons of nitric acid with 2.5 teaspoons of clean water in a glass
container by adding the acid to the water. 2. Dissolve 1/8 teaspoon of
mercury in the diluted nitric acid. This will yield dark red fumes. Note:
It may be necessary to add water, one drop at a time, to the mercury-acid
solution in order to start reaction. Also take usual precautions when handling
acid. 3. Warm 10 teaspoons of the alcohol in a container until the alcohol
feels warm to the inside of the wrist. 4. Pour the metal-acid solution
into the warm alcohol. Reaction should start in less than 5 minutes. Dense
white fumes will be given off during reaction. As time lapses, the fumes
will become less dense. Allow 10 to 15 minutes to complete reaction. Fulminate
will settle to bottom. Note: This reaction generates large quantities of
toxic, flammable fumes. The process must be conducted outdoors or in a
well ventilated area, away from sparks or flames. Do not inhlale fumes
unless you like death. 5. Filter the solution through a paper towel into
a container. Crystals may stick to the side of the container. If so, tilt
and squirt water down the sides of the container until all the material
collects on the filter paper. 6. Wash the crystals with 6 teaspoons of
ethyl alcohol. 7. Allow these to dry. Note: Handle dry explosives with
great care. Do not scrape or handle it roughly. Keep away from sparks or
open flame. Store in a cool dry place. Sodium Chlorate and sugar or aluminum
explosive Sec. I, No. 25 An explosive munition can be made from sodium
chlorate combined with granular sugar, or aluminum powder. This explosive
can be detonated with a commercial #8 or Military J2 blasting cap.
Materials Sources ---------
------- sodium chlorate Sec. I, No. 23 granular sugar food store aluminum
powder paint store wooden rod or stick bottle or jar blasting cap steel
pipe (threaded on one end) end cap and tape measuring container
Procedure --------- 1. Add
three volumes (cups, quarts, etc) sodium chlorate to one volume aluminum
powder, or two volumes of granular sugar, in bottle or jar. 2. Mix ingredients
well by stirring with the wooden rod or stick.
How to Use ---------- 1. Wax
blasting cap, pipe and end cap. 2. Thread end cap onto pipe. 3. Pour munition
into pipe. 4. Insert and tape blasting cap just beneath surface of mixture.
Note: Confining the open end of the pipe will add to the effectiveness
of the explosive. Acetone/Peroxide Explosive Sec. I, No. 26 Materials Sources
--------- ------- Hydrogen Peroxide Drug store, Hair Bleach Acetone Hardware,
drup stores Sulfuric Acid Clear battery acid boiled until white fumes appear
Eye dropper or styringe with glass tube Graduated cylinder (cc or ml) or
other measuring device Thermometer (0-100 C) Glass containers Large pan
Ice and salt Water Paper towels
Procedure --------- 1. Measure
30 ml of acetone and 50 ml of hydrogen peroxide into a glass container
and mix thoroughly. 2. Cool the acetone/peroxide mixture by placing its
container in a larger one containing a mixture of ice, salt and water.
Note: Because of the lighter inner container being buoyant in the larger
outer container, it is necessary to secure it so that it will not fall
over into the ice, salt, and water mixture. 3. Cool the acetone/peroxide
mixture to 5 degrees C. 4. Add 2.5 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to
the acetone/peroxide mixture slowly. drop by drop, with the use of an eye
dropper. Stir the mixture during the addition of the sulfuric acid with
a thermometer, keeping the temperature between 5-10 degrees C., stop adding
the sulfuric acid and continue stirring until the temp. drops again to
5 degrees C., then continue adding the sulfuric acid. __ | |<-eye dropper
w/ concentrated sulfuric acid |__| \ \ | <- thermometer | \ \ | | |
\ \ | | | \-\ | | | | | | | acetone/peroxide mix -----|-> | | | | | | <-|---ice,
salt, and water mix. | \-------/ | maintain 5-10 degrees C. -------------------------
5. After all the sulfuric acid has been added, continue stirring the mixture
for another five minutes. 6. Let the acetone/peroxide/sulfuric acid mixture
stand in the ice/water/salt bath or remove the inner container and place
it in an ice box for 12-24 hours. 7. After 12 hours, white crystals of
acetone peroxide will precipitate out of the once clear solution. Precipitation
should be completed after 24 hrs. Note: At this point the mixture is a
primary explosive. Keep away from shock, friction and flame. 8. Filter
the mixture through a paper twoel into a container to collect all of the
solid particles. 9. Wash the solid particles collected in the paper towel
with small amounts of ice cold water poured over them. Discard the liquid
in the container. 10. Place these explosive crystals in a container and
allow to dry. Note: Handle the dry explosive with great care. Do not scrape
or handle it roughly. Keep away from sparks or open flame. Store in a cool,
dark, dry place.
How to Use ---------- Acetone
peroxide is a powerful initiator and can be used by itself as the main
filler when making homeade detonators. Using 2.5" lengths of brass or copper
tubing with one end sealed shit with either solder or epoxy resin, begin
by partiallly filling the tube with acetone perroxide and compressing with
a loading press (Sec. VI, No. 13, Vol. 2 and Sec. II, No. 12, Vol 3). Continue
This process until the explosive is within 1/2" of the top. Cap the open
end tightly with a cork or wood stopper. When ready to use, remove stopper
and insert time fuse. Seal around fuse and tube insert into the main charge
to a depth of 2". The caps will detonate most of the explosives shown in
this volume. Note: These detonators should be used withing 7 days of thier
manufacture and should be stored in a cool, dry place. Bullseye (low-high)
Explosive Sec. I, No. 27 A highly effective and powerful low - high explosive
can be obtained by simply using a fast burning double-based, smokeless
pistol powder called Bullseye. This propellant is used to reload pistol
and revolver cartridges and contains a sensitive mixture of nitroglycerin
and nitrocellulose.
Materials Sources ---------
------- Bullseye smokeless pistol powder Gun and reloading stores Compound
detonator or time fuse Five finger discount at many fine National Guard
bases
How to Use ---------- 1. To
use as a low explosive, simply pour the powder into a pipe with end caps
and ignite with a time fuse. When ignited, the pipe will explode into many
fragments traveling at a velocity of approximately 600 fps. 2. To use as
a high explosive, simply pour the powder into a pipe with end caps, insert
a compound detonator with a fuzing mechanism and detonate. When detonated,
the pipe will fragment into many small fragments traveling at a velocity
in excess of 20,000 fps. Note: Because of the unique mixture of nitroglycering
with nitrocellulose (double-base), Bullseye is one of the few propellants
that can be detonated with a blasting cap. When detonated, it is a powerful
as military TNT and should be used to defeat hard targets. HTH/Naptha Explosive
Sec. I, No. 28 An explosive munition can be made from granular calcium
hypoclorite (HTH, swimming pool bleach) and petroleum naptha. This explosive
can be detonated with a compound detonator. Materials Sources ---------
------- Granular calcium hypoclorite 70%, HTH Bleaching agent, swimming
pool swimming pool purifier. supply houses, better K-marts. Benzine (petroleum
naptha) Hardware and paint stores, paint thinner, cleaning fluid. Mixing
container (bowl, bucket, etc) Stirring rod (Wood) Measuring container (cup,
tablespoon) Storage container (jar, can) with tight lid Blasting cap, compound
detonator required Strong pipe with end caps
Procedure --------- 1. Measure
out 32 parts by volume, 27 parts by weight, of calcium hypoclorite (CH)
to 1 part by volume, 1 part by weight, of petroleum naptha into the mixing
container. 2. Stir until thoroughly mixed with wooden stirring rod.
How to Use ---------- 1. This
mixture forms a low power/brisant high explosive which should be used under
strong confinement and only as an explosive filler for antipersonnel fragmentation
bombs. To use, spoon this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has
an end cap on one end. 2. Insert a compound detonator just beneath the
surface of the explosive and screw the other end cap on with a hole drilled
through for the fuse. Note: Take care not to tamp or shake the mixture
in the pipe. If the mixture becomes tightly packed, one cap will not be
sufficient to detonate the explosive. Store in tightly sealed container.
Potassium Permangante/Aluminum Explosive Sec. I, No. 29 An explosive munition
can be made from potassium permanganate and aluminum powder. This explosive
can be detonated with a compound detonator.
Materials Sources ---------
------- Potassium permanganate chemical and photography stores fine aluminum
bronzing powder paint stores measuring container (cup, tablespoon, etc.)
storage container with tight lid two flat boards (one should be comfortably
held in the had such as a square block or rolling pin and one very large,
ie., 36" x 36" blasting cap, compound detonator required strong pipe with
end caps
Procedure --------- 1. Spread
a handful at a time of potassium permanganate on the large flat board and
rub vigorously with the other flat board or rolling pic until the large
particles are crushed into a very fine powder (approx. 10 minutes per handful)
2. Measure 2 volumes (cups, tablespooons, etc.), 60% by weight, of potassium
permanganate with three volumes, 40% by weight, of fine aluminum bronzing
powder into a mixing container with a tight fitting lid. 3. Secure the
lid tightly and shake the mixture for approx. five minutes to mix thoroughly.
4. Store the explosive in the mixing container until ready to use. Before
using, shake the contents once again to remix any settled particles.
How to Use ---------- 1. This
mixture forms a low power/brisant high explosive which should be used under
strong confinement and only as an explosive filler for antipersonnel fragmentation
bombs. To use, spoon this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has
an end cap on one end. 2. Insert compound detonator just beneath the surface
of the explosive and screw the other end cap on with a hole drilled through
for the fuse. Potassium Chlorate/Sulfur Explosive Sec. I, No. 30 An impact
sensitive explosive can be made from potassium chlorate and sulfur. This
explosive can be used as a filler when making reusable primers (Sec. III,
No. 5, Vol. 1) or as a fill when making impact sensitive fragmentation
bombs.
Materials Sources ---------
------- Potassium chlorate Drug stores, chemical supply houses Sulfur Drug
Stores Measuring container Mixing container Two flat boards (same as No.
29)
Procedure --------- 1. Spread
a handful at a time of potassium chlorate on the large flat board and rub
vigorously with the other flat board or rolling pin until the large particles
are crushed into a very fine powder (approx. 10 minutes per handful). Note:
Clean and dry both boards before using again with a different substance.
2. Repeat this process using the sulfur. 3. Measure 7 parts by volume,
11 parts by weight, of powdered potassium chlorate and 1 part by volume,
1 part by weight of powdered sulfur into the mixing container. Note: This
mixture forms an extremely shock sensitive explosive, especially between
two metal surfaces. Reasonable care should be exercised from this point
on. 4. Gently tumble the mixing container between the hands until the ingredients
are thoroughly mixed together. 5. Place the mixed explosive in a tightly
sealed storage container until ready to use. Note: Do not store the mixed
explosive for more than five days before using. KEEP THIS EXPLOSIVE DRY
AT ALL TIMES.
How to Use ---------- 1. This
explosive can either be used to either fill primer caps (Sec. III, No.
5, Vol. 1), reloading ammunition, or it can be used to make the following
palm sized fragmentation bombs: A. Obtain a short section of threaded water
pipe with two end caps. B. Thread on end cap onto the pipe and fill 1/4
full with steel ball bearings. C. Fill the remaining space with potassium
chlorate/sulfur mixture and screw the remaining end cap on. /*_*_*_*_*_*\
<-threaded end cap |_---------_| |--O-O--| actual water pipe -> |-----O-|
"O's" represent ball bearings _|-O-----|_ "-'s" represent the mixture |_-_-_O_-_-_|
\***********/ <-threaded end cap Note: Maintain a loose mixture between
the ball bearings and explosive by not over tamping the explosive into
the pipe. This will allow the ball bearings to move and impact together.
D. Gently tumble the pipe between the hands to mix the ball bearings with
the explosive. E. When ready to use, throw against or near the target area.
Potassium chlorate/Kerosene explosive Sec. I, No. 31 An effectove explosive
munition can be made by simply pouring kerosene into powdered potassium
chlorate. This explosive can be detonated with a compound detonator.
Materials Sources ---------
------- Potassium chlorate Drug, chemical supply stores Kerosene Hardware
stores Measuring container Mixing container Stirring rod Storage container
with tight lid Two flat boards (same as No. 30) Compound detonator
Procedure --------- 1. Spread
a handful at a time of potassium chlorate on the large flat board and rub
vigorously with the other flat board or rolling pin until the large particles
are crushed into a very fine powder (approx. 10 minutes per handful) 2.
To produce the explosive, all that is required is to pour 1 part by volume,
10% by weight, of kerosene into 9 parts by volume, 90% by weight, of potassium
chlorate. Stir until completely mixed, then store in a sealed conatainer
until ready to use. 3. Another method in producing the explosive is to
lightly pre-pack a selected charge container with powdered potassium chlorate.
When ready to use, simply pour the pre-measured amount of kerosene into
the potassium chlorate and allow to soak in for five minutes before using.
How to use ---------- 1. This
mixture forms a low power/brisant high explosive which should be used under
strong confinement and only as an explosive filler for antipersonnel fragmentation
bombs and light blasting operations. 2. to use, spoon this mixture into
an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap on one end. Note: Store mixed
explosive in mixing container or load into pipe. 3. Insert compound detonator
just beneath the surface of the explosive and screw the other end cap on
with a hole drilled through for the fuse. 4. The pipe can be pre-filled
with potassium chlorate and when ready to use, simply pour in the kerosene,
allow to soak for five minutes, then detonate. Potassium chlorate/Notrobenzene
Explosive Sec. I, No. 32 A moise explosive can be made from solid potassium
chlorate and liquid nitrobenzene. This explosive has medium to high power
and brisance. It can be used as a substitute for 50% ditching dynamite
or flake TNT. This exlosive can be readily detonated by a standard blasting
cap (No. 6).
Materials Sources ---------
------- Potassium chlorate Drug and chemical supply stores Nitrobenzene
Drug stores (oil of mirbane), chemical supply houses Measuring container
Mixing container Storage container with tight lid Two flat boards (from
No. 31) Blasting cap (No. 6)
Procedure --------- 1. Use
step one from No. 31 to pulverize the potassium chlorate. Note: Nitrobenzene
is extremely toxic and should be handled in well ventilated areas. Harmful
effects may result from swallowing, inhalation of vapors, or contact with
the skin or eyes. In case of accidental spilling, wash the addected area
immediately with large quantities of water. 2. To produce the explosive,
all that is required is to pour 1 part by volume, 20% by weight of nitrobenzene
into 4 parts by volume, 80% by weight, of powdered potassium chlorate.
Stir until completely mixed, then store in a sealed container wintil ready
for use. 3. Another effective method in producing the explosive is to tightly
pre-pack a selected charge container with powdered potassium chlorate.
When ready for use, simply pour the pre-measured amount of nitrobenzene
into the potassium chlorate and allow to soak for 3 to 3 minutes before
using. Note: An important factor to observe when pouring the nitrobenzene
into the potassium chlorate is to not allow the potassium chlorate to be
disturbed after it has been soaked with nitrobenzene. Whenever a liquid
is poured into a powdered substance, a natural "caking action" will result,
producing a fairly uniform density throughout the solid material. Since
uniform density has a direct overall effect on the explosive performance,
it is important to first pre-pack a rigid container with the potassium
chlorate and then pour in the nitrobenzene and allow it to soak in without
stirring. This will produce a high performance explosive. Mixing in a plastic
bag will produce a low performance exlosive.
How to Use ---------- 1. This
mixture forms a very powerful explosive that can be used for general purpose
blasting and ditching operations. It is extremely sensitive to detonation
and can be initiated by simple homemade detonators. Nitromethane/Sawdust
explosive Sec. I, No. 33 A simple nitromethane based explosive can be made
by simply pouring nitromethane into a container filled with screened sawdust.
This explosive can be detonated with a compound detonator.
Materials Sources ---------
------- Nitromethane Chemical supply houses, hobby shops (fuel for r/c
cars) Sawdust (fine) Common window screen Measuring container Mixing container
Storage container Compound detonator
Procedure --------- 1. Using
a common window screen as a sieve, place a handful of sawdust in the center
and shake between the hands in a back and forth motion. Collect the sawdust
that passes through and discard the rest. (do not force big pieces through
the screen) 2. Measure out 2 parts by volume, 20% by weight, of screened
sawdust into a mixing container. Pour in 1 part by volume, 80% by weight,
of liquid nitromethane. Stir until completely mixed. 3. Store in a sealed
container until ready to use.
How to Use ---------- 1. This
mixture forms a medium power/brisant high explosive which should be used
under strong confinement and as a filler for fragmentation bombs and light
blasting operations. 2. To use, spoon this mixture into an iron or steel
pipe which has an end cap on one end. 3. Insert a compound detonator just
beneath the surface of the explosive and screw the other end cap on with
a hole drilled through for the fuse. 4. The pipe can be pre-filled with
sawdust. When ready for use, simply pour in the nitromethane, then detonate.
Nitromethane/Ammonium Nitrate Explosive Sec. I, No. 34 A moist explosve
can be made from solid ammonium nitrate fertilizer combined with liquid
nitromethane. This explosive has both high power and high brisance and
can be used as a direct substitute for TNT. This explosive can be readily
detonated by a blasting cap, No. 6 in strength. A compound detonator is
not required.
Materials Sources ---------
------- Ammonium nitrate fertilizer (not less than Farm or feed store,
or chemical 32% nitrogen) or pure supply house Nitromethane Hobby stores,
chemical supply house measuring container mixing container storage container
w/ tight lid Two flat boards (same as No. 30) Blasting cap (No. 6)
Procedure --------- 1. Spread
a handful at a time of the fertilizer on the large flat board and rub vigirously
with the other board or rolling pin until the large particles are crushed
into a fine powder that looks like flour (approx. 10 minutes per handful)
Note: Proceed with steps 2 and 3 as soon as possible, since the powder
may moisture from the air and become spoiled. 2. To produce the explosive,
all that is required is to pour 1 part by volume or 2 parts by weight of
nitromethane into 3 parts by volume or 5 parts by weight of powdered ammonium
nitrate. Stir until completely mixed, then store in a sealed container
until ready to use. 3. Another effective method in producing the explosive
is to tightly pre-pack a selected charge container with powdered ammonium
nitrate. When ready to use, simply pour the pre-measured amount of nitromethane
into the ammonium nitrate and allow to soak in for 3 to 5 minutes before
using. Note: An important factor to observe when pouring the nitromethane
into the ammonium nitrate is to not allow the ammonium nitrate to be disturbed
after it has been soaked with nitromethane. Whenever a liquid is poured
into a powdered substance, a natural "caking action" will result, producing
a fairly uniform density throughout the solid material. Since uniform density
has a direct overall effect of the explosive performance, it is important
to first pre-pack a rigid container with ammonium nitrate and then pour
in the nitromethane and allow to soak without stirring. This will produce
a high performance explosive. Mixing in a plastic bag will produce a low
performance explosive.
How to Use ---------- 1. This
explosive is one of the most powerful/brisant two component explosives
readily available. Each component is perfectly safe to handle by itself.
However, when the two are mixed together, they form a sensitive high explosive
that can be detonated with a standard blasting cap. 2. This explosive mixture
should be used to defeat hard targets, such as steel and reinforced concrete.
It can also be used with special charges that require high brisance, i.e.,
shaped charges, platter charges, and SCIMP charges. Nitromethane Liquid
explosive Sec. I, No. 35 A liquid explosive, that resembles water in appearance,
can be made from nitromethane and aqueous ammonia (household glass cleaner).
This exposive is 22 to 24 more powerful that military TNT and can be detonated
with a standard blasting cap. However, to achieve maximum velocity, a compound
detonator should be used.
Materials Sources ---------
------- Nitromethane chemical supply or hooby store (racing fuel) Aniline,
ethylenediamine, aqueous ammonia Hardware stores, chemical (non-detergent)
supply, grocery store measuring container (cup, pint, etc.) blasting cap
or compound detonator
Procedure --------- Note: Nitromethane
is a common chemical reagent, and under normal conditions cannot be made
to detonate even if a strong detonator is used. However, if certain ammonia-containing
compounds (called sensitizers) are alled in small percentages (5-6 %),
then the sensitized nitromethane can be detonated with a standard #8 blasting
cap. The most effective sensitizers are aniline and ethylenediamine. The
most readily available sensitizer is common household glass cleaner (aqueous
ammonia). 1. To produce the explosive, simply pour the sensitizer into
the nitromethane and mix thoroughly. One-half pic sensitizer will sensitize
one gallon of nitromethane. 2. The explosive can be premixed, or for safety's
sake, it can be mixed just prior to use by prefilling a charge container
with nitromethane and then adding the sensitizer when ready to detonate.
How to Use ---------- 1. This
liquid explosive can be used whenever or wherever a liquid can be used
for disguiseability. It can be poured directly into prefabricated special
charge containers, i.e., shape charges, platter charges, and SCIMP charges,
without special measures being taken to maintain uniform densities required
for solid explosives to be effective. 2. To obtain the maximum efficiency,
a compound detonator should be used for initiation. Reliability of initiation
is increased by positioning and immersing the detonator centrally with
respect to the wall of the container. By centrally positioning and immersing
the detonator in the liquid, the output energy of the detonator is transmitted
to the explosive instead of being partially dissipated through the wall
of the container. do dont "-" = cap | - | -| | | - | -| | | - | -| | +++++++
+++++++ Fertilizer/hydrazine liquid explosive Sec. I, No. 36 A liquid explosive
can be made from solid ammonium nitrate fertilizer combined with liquid
anhydrous hydrazine. This liquid explosive is more powerful and brisant
than C4 plastic explosive and can be used as a direct replacement for C4.
This explosive can be detonated with a blasting cap. However, to achieve
maximum velocity a compound detonator should be used.
Materials Sources ---------
------- Ammonium nirtate fertilizer (not less than farm or feed store or
32% nitrogen) chemical supply store anhydrous hydrazine chemical supply
house large mixing container glass stirring rod storage container blasting
cap, compound detonator
Procedure --------- Note: Anhydrous
hydrazine is classified as as corrosive and is flammable. Keep away from
spark or flame. It is also mildly toxic and should be handled in well ventilated
areas. Affected areas of skin should be washed with large quantities of
water. 1. Pour into the mixing container an amount of anhydrous hydrazine
equal to the amount of explosive required. 2. Ammonium nitrate (prilled
or powdered) is then added, a teaspoon at a time, to the hydrazine in the
mixing container. Note: The mixing container should be fairly large (5x
the volume of the hydrazine) because the chemical reaction between the
ammonium nitrate and the hydrazine is extremely effervescent and can easily
bubble over the top. 3. Because of the effervescent reaction, the ammonium
nitrate should be added very slowly so as not to create accidental over-flowing.
With each addition of ammonium nitrate, the person doing the mixing should
wait for the initial reaction to subside, then stir the solution until
all of the ammonium nitrate dissolves into it. Note: The reaction between
the ammonium nitrate and hydrazine liberates large volumes of poisonous
gas. The person doing the mixing should be upwind of the mixing process
so as not to breath the poisonous fumes. 4. The mixing process is continued
until the ammonium nitrate no longer dissolves into the solution, even
after five minutes of stirring, and a small amount reamains undissolved
at the bottom of the mixing container. This undissolved ammonium nitrate
does not affect the performance of the explosive. 5. After the mixing process
is complete, what will remain will be a clear liquid explosive more powerful
and brisant that any military explosive. Note: The mixed explosive has
a lower toxicity of the hydrazine. However, it is recommended that the
same handling precautions be observed. 6. To make an even more powerful
explosive, 20% aluminum powder (100 mesh or finer) can be added to the
ammonium nitrate before mixing with the hydrazine (it does not react with
the other two ingredients), or ir can be added after the mixing process
is complete.
How to Use ---------- 1. This
explosive is the most powerful/brisant of the two complement explosive
systems available. It can be used whenever or wherever a liquid can be
used for disguiseability. 2. It can be poured directly into prefabricated
special charge containers, i.e., shape, platter and SCIMP charges, without
special measures being taken to maintain uniform densities required by
solid explosives to be effective. 3. It has unique absorption and retention
poperties which can be used to create a liquid land mine. The liquid explosive
can be poured directly into the ground, soaking into and blending with
the surrounding earth. The pocket of explosive can be initiated by a conventional
electrically or mechanically actuated detonator. These pockets of explosives
have remained detonable for four days in the ground, even when the soil
was soaked due to rainy weather. /----wet explosive in ground. ____________
/ ____________ \ \_/ /
\ _____/____
\_______/ \-detonator placed here
Explosive paper Sec I, No. 37
An excellent absorption explosive can be made from a solution of PETN (the
center filler of detonator cord), acetone, and mineral oil. When any non-gloss
paper, i.e., newspaper, paperback books, corrugated cardboard, etc., is dipped
in this explosive solution and then removed and allowed to dry, the paper will
retain its original texture and appearance along with a microcrystaline high
explosive incorporated into the fiber content of the paper. This produces a
disguised explosive that can be carried into a target area without arousing
suspicion.
Materials Sources
PETN detonating cord (primacord)
Acetone hardware stores
mineral oil drug stores
mixing container
pan or bucket larger than the mixing
container
large, flat pan, (cake pan)
sheets of newspaper, paperback books,
corrugated cardboard, etc.
Procedure
1. Using a razor blade, cut detonating cord lengthwise and remove the center
filler (P.E.T.N.). Approx. .5 lb. of PETN can be removed per 100 ft.
of detonating cord.
2. Fill a canning jar 2/3 full of acetone and heat until mildly warm by
placing the canning jar in a pan or bucket on heat source when it contains
the canning jar.
3. Add PETN to the acetone, a tablespoon a a time, while stirring with a
stirring rod. Stir the solution until the PETN dissolves. Add more PETN
until it no longer dissolves into solution, even after five minutes of
stirring. Approx. 1/3 lb. of PETN will dissolve in every lb. of warm
acetone used.
4. Approx. 2% mineral should be added to the final solution. This mineral
oil will prevent the crystals of PETN from recrystalizing to a noticeable
size when the acetone evaporates. The mineral oil will also provide a
better texture to the paper when it is dry after the soaking process.
5. Pout this solution into a large, flat pam, then fill the pan with even
sheets of a non gloss paper. It rolled newspaper is used, unroll it and
lay it out evenly in the an. Allow the paper to soak for 30 minutes.
6. After soaking for 30 minutes, remove the paper and allow to dry for at
least 24 hours. DO NOT DRY IN AN OVEN. After the papr has had time to
dry, 50 % of its weight will consist of a microcrystaline high explosive
intimately incorporated into the fiber content of the paper.
How to Use
1. To use simply insert a blasting cap ot compound detonator into the paper
and detonate.
2. If a rolled newspaper is used, the detonator and fusing mechanism can
be concealed in the center of the roll and easily carried into the
target area and left where destruction is desired. An average size
newspaper has the explosive equivalent of several sticks of dynamite.
RDX Sec. I, No. 38
RDX is a powerful/brisant high explosive that can be made from
hexamethylenetetramine and strong nitric acid. It can be used as a booster
explosive for compound detonators, as a main explosive filler, and for the
manufacture of explosive flour (Sec. I, No. 39)
Materials Sources
Hexamethylenetetramine (hexamine) Drug stores under names of
urotropine, hexamin,
methenamine, etc.
strong nitric acid (d 1.50) Sec. I, No. 4
Acetone drug store
weighing scale with at least gram
accuracy or measuring spoons
graduated cylinder (cc or ml) or
measuring cups
thermometer 20 degrees 100 degrees C or
68 degrees 212 degrees F
several large quart canning jars
two large basins or bowls made of metal
or other similar material that can be
heated
paper towels
Procedure
1. Place .5 cup, 120 ml or cc of nitrix acid in a large canning jar and bring
the temperature to between 20 and 30 degrees C. (68-86 F) By putting the
jar in a basin of cold water. If necessary, swirl the canning jar around
the basin of cold water to bring the temperature down, while being careful
not to allow any water to splash into the acid.
Note: Maintain the thermometer in the acid throughout the reaction while
carefully noting and controlling the temperature by alternating the jar between
the basin of cold water and the basin of hot water. The thermometer can be
used as a stirring rod if the solution is gently stirred.
2. Weigh or measure out 70 grams by weight, 18 teaspoons by volume, of the
hexamine and start adding the salt-like hexamine slowly, 1/2 teaspoon
at a time, during a 15 minute period. Maintain the temp. between 20 30
degrees C, while stirring gently with the thermometer. Control the temp.
by dipping the canning jar in and out of the basin filled with cold water.
3. When all of the hexamine is dissolved in the acid, heat the solution to
55 degrees C, by placing the canning jar in a bsin of hot water. Maintain
tis temperature for about 10 minutes.
4. After heating the solution for 10 minutes, remove the canning jar from
the basin of cold water and place it in the basin of cold water. Cool the
canning jar to 20 degrees C. (68 degrees F).
5. When the temperature has reached 20 degrees C, add 3 cups (750 ml) of
cold water to the solution and a white salt will appear.
Note: The white salt is RDX and should be handled with great care from now on.
6. Filter the acid/water/RDX solution through a paper towel covering the
mouth of another jar.
7. Wash the RDX crystals off the paper towel and into a canning jar, using
an additional 3 cups of fresh, cold water. Add a teaspoon of sodium
carbonate to neutralize the acid and stir rapidly for 2-3 minutes, then
filter again.
8. The crude product can be dried out on the paper towel filter. It is
suitable for fairly immediate use, or it can be purified.
9. To purify RDX, fill a quart canning jar 2/3 full of acetone. Heat the
acetone by placing the jar in a basin of hot simmering water, then add
RDX, a tablespoon at a time, until it completely dissolves in the
acetone.
10. After the maximem amount of RDX has been dissolved into the hot acetone,
allow the solution to cool to room temperature, then let stand for one
more hour.
11. The RDX will form a salt once again. Filter the RDX and spread it out on
a paper towel as before.
12. The purified RDX should be stored in a clean canning jar with a tight
fitting lid. It can be stored for months without loss of effectiveness.
Note: RDX is not too sensitive to heat and shock, but is fairly sensitive to
friction. Care should therefore be taken when the explosive is to be packed or
when the dry explosive is handled. Using the amounts of chemicals listed in
this article, the yield of RDX should be about 1/5 oz.
Explosive Flour Sec. I, No. 39
An explosive that looks and bakes like ordinary wheat flour can be made from a
mixture flour and RDX. It can be used in many different forms as an explosive:
in its dry powder form, moistened with water and used as a dough like plastic
explosive, or by using special recipes it can be baked into pancakes or
bisuits.
Materials Sources
RDX Sec. I, No. 15
Sec. I, No. 38
Flour grocery store
large sheet of wood, and a rolling pin
(wood must be flat)
Procedure
1. Place a tablespoonful of RDX crystals on the large sheet of wood. Using
a rolling pic, crush the crystals into a fine powder, the consistency of
flour.
Note: Use only a rolling pic, not a block of wood. It is important to crush
the RDX crystals into a fine powder rather than using friction between to
rubbing surfaces.
2. Mix 80% by weight of powdered RDX with 20% by weight of flour in a canning
jar with a tight fitting lid by shaking for five minutes.
3. The mixed explosive flour can be stored in the sealed mixing conainer for
long periods of time before using. It can also be disguised by storing
it in an original bag of flour.
How to Use
1. This explosive flour is more powerful and brisant that military TNT and
is easiest to detonate in its powdered form. A standard blasting cap
provides sufficient shock to set it off.
2. To use as a plastic explosive, mix 4 parts by weight of flour to 1 part
by weight of water. This forms a dough that has very desirable plastic
qualities which can be used to mold itself around vertain types of
targets in the same manner as military C4 plastic explosive. A compound
detonator must be use to insure positive detonation.
3. The following recipes make it possible to bake the powdered explosive into
pancakes or biscuits:
A. For pancakes, use this recipe:
3 cups explosive flour
2 teaspoons of baking powder
.5 teaspoon of salt
1 cup of milk
1 egg
2 tablespoons of melted lard
Note: This pancake mixture can be left of the griddle until it completely chars
with no unusual effects, thus demonstrating the stability of the mixture to
heat.
B. For explosive biscuits, use this recipe:
3 cups explosive flour
2 teaspoons of baking powder
3/8 teaspoon of salt
2 teaspoons of lard
88 ml or cc of water
4. The finished pancakes and biscuits look, feel, and taste like ordinary
pancakes and biscuits. However, they are highly toxic, and SHOULD NOT
BE EATEN. Before using these baked items as an explosive, they must be
moistened and kneaded into a plastic masss to remove the air spaces.
They may be exploded in the same manner as the plastic form.
Pipe Hand Grenade Sec. II, No. I
Hand grenades can be made from a piece of iron pipe. The filler can be plastic
or granular military explosive, improvised explosive, or propellant from
shotgunn or small arms ammunition.
Materials Sources
Iron pipe, threaded ends, 1.5" to 3" in
diameter, 3" to 8" long
2 end caps
explosive or propellant
nonelectric blasting cap (comm. or military)
fuse cord
hand drill
pliers
Procedure
1. Place blasting cap on one end of fuse cord and crimp with pliers.
Note: To find out how long the fuse cord should be, check the time it takes
for a known length of fuse to burn. If 12 inches burns in 30 seconds, a six
inch cord will ignite the grenade in 15 seconds.
2. Screw pipe cap to one end of pipe. Place fuse cord with blasting cap into
the opposite end so that the blasting cap is near the center of the pipe.
Note: If plastic explosive is to be used, fill pipe before inserting blasting
cap. Push a round stick into the center of the exlosive to make a hole and
then insert blasting cap.
3. Pour exlposive or propellant into pipe a little at a time. Tap the base
of the pipe frequently to settle filter.
4. Drill a hole in the center of the unassembled pipe cap large enough
for the fuse cord to pass through.
5. Wipe pipe threads to remove any filler material. Slide the drilled pipe
cap over the fuse and screw handtight onto pipe.
Nail Grenade Sec. II, No. 2
Effective fragmentation grenades can be made from a block of TNT or other
blasting explosive and nails.
Materials Sources
Block of TNT or other blasting explosive
Nails
Non-electric military blasting cap
fuse cord
tap, string, wire or glue
Procedure
1. If an explosive charge other than a standard TNT block is used, make
a hole in the center of the charge for inserting the blasting cap. TNT
can be drilled with relative safety. With plastic explosives, a hole can
be made by pressing a round stick into the center of the charge. The hole
should be deep enough that the blasting cap is totally within the
explosive.
2. Tape, tie or glue on or two rows of closely packed nails to sides of
explosive block. Nails should completely cover the four surfaces of the
block.
3. Place blasting cap on one end of the fuse cord and crimp with pliers.
Note: Use same method in Sec. II, No. 1 to determine burning lengths of fuse.
4. Insert the blasting cap in the hole in the block of explosive. Tape or tie
fuse cord securly in place so that it will not fall out when the grenade
is thrown.
Alternate Use
An effective directional anti-personnel mine can be made by placing nails on
only one side of the explosive block. For this case, an electric blasting cap
should be used.
Wine Bottle Cone Charge Sec. II, No. 3
This cone charge will penetrate 3 to 4 in. of armor. Placed on an engine
conpartment, it will disable a tank or other vehicle beyond immediate repair.
Materials Sources
Glass wine bottle with cone shaped false
bottom
Plastic or castable explosive
blasting cap
gasoline or kerosene (small amount)
string
adhesive tape
Procedure
1. Soak a piece of string in gasoline or kerosene. Double wrap this
string around the wine bottle approx. 3 in. above the top of the cone.
Note: Adding a small amount of motor oil to the gasoline or kerosene will
improve results.
2. Ignite the string and allow to burn for 1 to 2 minutes. Then plunge the
bottle into cold water to crack it. The top half can now be easily removed
and discarded.
3. If plastic explosive is used:
A. Pack explosive into the bottle a little at a time compressing with
a wooden rod. Fill the bottle up to the top.
B. Press a .25 in. wooden dowel .5 in into the middle of the top of
the explosive charge to form a hole for the blasting cap.
4. If TNT or other castable explosive is used:
A. Break explosive into small pieces using a wooden mallet or non-
sparking metal tools. Place pieces in a tin can.
B. Suspend this can in a larger container which is partly filled with
water. A stiff wire or stick pushed through the smaller can will
accomplish this.
Note: The inner can must not rest on the bottom of the outer container.
C. Heat the containr on a electric hot plate or other heat source. Stir
the explosive frequently with a wooden stick while it is melting.
Note: Keep area well ventilated while melting explosive. Fumes may be
poisonous.
D. When all the explosive has melted, remove the inner container and
stir the molten explosive until it begins to thicken. Diring this
time the bottom half of the wine bottle should be placed in the
container of hot water. This will pre-heat the bottle so that it
will not crack whenthe explosive is poured.
E. Remove the bottle from how water and dry thoroughly. Pour molten
explosive into the bottle and allow to cool. The crust which
forms on top of the charge during cooling should be broken with a
wooden stick and more explosive added. Do this as often as necessary
until the bottle is filled to the top.
F. When explosive has completely hardened, bore a hole for the blasting
cap in the middle of the top of the charge about .5 in. deep.
How to Use
1. Place blasting cap in the hole in the top of the charge. If non-electric
blasting cap is used, be sure cap is crimped around fuze and fuze is
long enough to provide safe delay.
2. Place the charge so that the bottom is 3-4 in. from the target. This can
be done by taping legs to the charge or any other convenient means as
long as there is nothing between the base of the charge and the target.
3. If electric blasting cap is used, connect blasting wires to firing
circuit.
Note: The effectiveness of this charge can be increased by placing it inside a
can, box, or similar container and packing sand or dirt between the charge and
the container.
Grenade/Tin can land mine Sec. II, No. 4
This device can be used as a land mine that will explode when the trip wire is
pulled.
Materials Sources
Hand grenade having side safety lever
Sturdy container, open at one end, that is just
large enough to slip over the grenade and its
safety lever.
Strong string or wire
Procedure
1. Fasten one piece of string to the closed end of the container, making
a strong connection. This can be done by punching 2 holes in the can,
looping through them, and tying a knot.
2. Tie free end of this string to bush, stake, fencepost, etc.
3. Fasten another length of string to the grenade such that it cannot
interfere with the functioning of the ignition mechanism of the
grenade.
4. Insert grenade into container.
5. Lay free length of string across path and fasten to stake, bush, etc.
The string should remain taught.
stake container w/ grenade stake
_______
| trip wire | |
|------------------------------------ |------------------|
| ______| |
How to Use
1. Carefully withdraw safety pin by pulling on ring. Be sure safety lever
is restrained during this position during this operation. Grenade will
function in normal manner when trip wire is pulled.
Note: In area where concealment is possible, a greater effect may be obtained
by suspending the grenade several feet above ground, as illustrated below (yuk)
\ \ | |
\ \ | |
\ \ | tree |
|\ \| |
| \ | |
| \| |
| | |
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Grenade / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / 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/ / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / />|
| | | |___| | | | | | | | | stake trip wire | | | |----------------------------------------------/\
| | | / \------------- knot Mortar Scrap mine Sec. II, No. 5 A directional
mine that can be placed in the path of advancing troops. Materials Sources
--------- ------- Iron pipe, appprox. 3 ft. in length and 2-4 Scrapyard,
steel company in. in diameter and threaded on at least Salvaged artillery
case one end Threaded cap to fit pipe black powder or salvaged artillery
powder (.5 lb total) Electrical igniter (commercial SQUIB or improvised
ignitor from Sec. VI, No. 1. Safety or improvised fuse may also be used
Small stones, about 1 in. in diameter or small size scap; about 1 lb. total
rags for wadding, each 20 in. x 20 in. paper or bag battery and wire stick
(non-metallic) Note: Be sure pipe has no cracks or flaws
Procedure --------- 1. Screw
threaded cap onto pipe. 2. Place propellant and igniter in paper or rag
and tie package with string so contents will not fall out. 3. Insert packaged
propellant and igniter into pipe until package rests against threaded cap
leaving firing leads extending from open end of pipe. 4. Roll rag until
it is about 6 in. long and the same diameter as pipe. Insert rag wadding
against packaged propellant ignitor. With caution, pack tightly using stick.
5. Insert stones and/or scrap metal into pipe. 6. Insert second piece of
rag wadding against stones and/or metal scrap. pack tightly as before.
explosive stones/scrap firing leads rags rags ------------------------------------------------
|XXXXXX:::::::::(*&(*()(*&::::::::::::\\\\\\\\\\\ |XXXXXX:::::::::()&*%%^$*)::::::::::::\\\\\\\\\\\\\
------------------------------------------------ \\ \\ How to Use ----------
1. Bury pipe in ground with open end facing the expected path of the enemy.
The open end may be covered with cardboard and a thin layer of dist or
leaves as camoflage. 2. Connect firing leads to battery and switch. Mine
can be remotely fired when needed or attached to a trip device placed in
path of advancing troops. Note: A NON-ELECTRICAL ignition system can be
substituted for the electrical system as follows: 1. Follow above procedure,
substituting safety fuse for igniter. 2. Light safety fuse when ready to
fire. Coke bottle shaped charge Sec.II, No. 2 This shaped charge will penetrate
3 in. of armor. It will disable a vehicle if placed on the engine or engine
compartment.
Materials --------- Glass coke
bottle 6.5 oz. size plastic or castable explosive, about 1 lb. blasting
cap metal cylinder, open at both ends, about 6 in. long and 2 in. inside
diameter (should be heavy walled for best results) plug to fit mouth of
coke bottle (rags, metal, wood, paper, etc.) Non-metal rod about .25 in.
in diameter and 8 in. or more in length tape or string 2 tin cans if castable
explosive is used (see Sec. II, No. 3)
Procedure --------- 1. Place
plug in mouth of bottle. 2. Place cylinder over top of bottle until bottom
of cyliner rests of widest part of bottle. Tape cylinder to bottle. Container
should be straight on top of bottle. 3. If plastic explosive is used: A.
Place explosive in cylinder a little at a time tamping with rod until cylinder
is full. B. Press the rod about .5 in. into the middle of the top of the
exlosive charge to form a hole for the blasting cap. 4. If castable explosive
is use, follow procedure of Wine Bottle cone charge, Sec. II, No. 3, step
4, a thru f.
How to Use ---------- Method
1. If electrical cap is used. 1. Place blasting cap in hole in top of explosive.
Note: Do not insert cap until ready to detonate the charge. 2. Place bottom
of coke bottle flush against the target. If target is not flat and horizontal,
fasten bottle to target by any conveneint means, such as by placing tape
or string around target and top of bottle. Bottom of bottle acts as stand-off.
Note: Be sure that base of bottle is flush against target and that there
is nothing between the target and the base of the bottle. 3. Connect leads
from blasting cap to firing circuit. Method II. If non-electrical cap is
used. 1. Crimp cap around fuse. Note: Be sure there is enough fuse to allow
a safe delay. 2. Follow steps 1, 2 and Notes of Method I. 3. Light fuse
when ready to fire. Cyndrilical Cavity shaped charge Sec. II, No. 7 A shaped
charge can be made from common pipe. It will penetrate 1.5 in of steel,
producing a hole 1.5 in in diameter.
Materials --------- Ir on or
steel pipe, 2 to 2.5 in. in diameter and 3 to 4 in. long. Metal pipe, .5
to .75 in in diameter and 1.5 in. long, open at both ends. Pipe should
be as thin as possible. Blasting cap Non-metallic rod, .25 in. in diameter
Plastic or castable explosive 2 metal cans of different sizes ------| |
stick or wire | only if castable explosive is used | heat source ------|
Procedure --------- 1. If plastic
explosive us used: A. Place larger pipe on flat surface. Hand pack and
tamp explosive into pipe. Leave approx. .25 in. space at the top. B. Place
rod in center of explosive. Enlarge hole in explosive to diameter and length
of small pipe. C. Insert small pipe into hole. Note: Make sure that there
is direct contact between the explosive and the small pipe. Hand pack if
necessary. D. Make sure that there is .25in. empty space aboce small pipe.
Remove pipe if necessary. E. Turn large pipe upside down, (the whole object)
and pus rod .5 in. into center of opposite end of explosive to form a hole
for the blasting cap. Note: Do not insert cap until ready to fire shaped
charge. 2. If TNT or other castable explosive is used: A. Follow procedure,
Sec. II, No. 3, step 4, Parts A, B, C, including Notes. B. When all explosive
has melted, remove the inner container and stir the molten explosive until
it begins to thicken. C. Place large pipe of flat surface. Pour explosive
into pipe until it is 1.75 in. from the top. D. Place small pipe in the
center of large pipe so that it rests on top of exlosive. Holding small
pipe in place, pour explosive around small pipe until explosive is .25
in. from top of large pipe. E. Allow explosive to cool. Break crust that
forms on top of the charge during cooling with a wooden stick and add more
explosive. Do this as often as necessary until explosive is .25 in. from
top. F. When explosive has completely hardened, turn pipe upside down and
bore a hole for the blasting cap in the middle of the top of the charge
about .50 in. deep.
How to Use ---------- Method
I. If an electrical cap is used. 1. Place blasting cap in hole made for
it. Note: Do not insert cap until ready to use. 2. Place other end of pipe
flush against target. Fasten pipe to target by any convenient means, such
as by placing tape or string around target and on top of pipe. If target
is not flat and horizontal. Note: Be sure that base of pipe is flush against
target and that there is nothing between the charge and the base of the
pipe. 3. Connect leads from cap to firing circuit. Method II. If non-electrical
cap is used. 1. Crimp cap around fuse. Note: Be sure that there is enough
fuse to allow safe delay. 2. Follow steps 1, 2 and notes of Method I. 3.
Light fuse when ready to fire. Funnel shaped charge Sec. II, No. 9 An effective
shaped charge can be made using various commercial funnels. See table for
penetration capabilities.
Materials --------- Container
(sode or beer can, etc.), approx. 2.5 in. in diameter x 5 in. long Funnels
(glass, steel or aluminum) 2.5 in. in diameter Wooden rod or stick, .25
in. in diameter tape blasting cap (electrical or non-electrical) sharp
cutting edge explosive
Procedure --------- 1. Remove
the top and bottom from can and discard. 2. Cut off and throw away the
spout of the funnel(s). Note: When using 3 funnels (see table), place the
modified funnels together as tight and as straight as possible. Tape the
funnels together at the outer ridges. 3. Place the funnels in the modified
can. Tape outer ridges to hold funnels to can. 4. If plastic explosive
is used, fill the can with the explosive using small quantities, and tamp
with wooden rod or stick. Note: If castable explosive is used, refer to
step 4 of Sec. II, No. 3. 5. Cut wodden rod to lengths 3 inches longer
than the standoff length. (see table) Position three of there rods around
the explosive filled can and hold in place with tape. Note: The position
of the rods on the container must conform to the standoff dimensions to
obtain the penetrations given in the table. ________________ _ | | | |
<-|----explosive 3| --| |-- i| - | /\ | - rods (legs) held on with tape
n| - | / \ | - | - | / funnel \ | - - - |/____________\| - - - - - | -
- - - - - - ^ |>standoff Table Funnel Material | No. of funnels | Standoff
(ins.) | Penetration | ------------------------------------------------------------------
| | | | | | glass | 1 | 3.5 | 4 | | | | | | |-----------------------------------------------------------------
| | | | | | steel | 3 | 1 | 2.5 | | | | | | |-----------------------------------------------------------------
| | | | | | aluminum | 3 | 3.5 | 2.5 | | | | | | |-----------------------------------------------------------------
| If only one steel or aluminum funnel is available: | |-----------------------------------------------------------------
| | | | | | steel | 1 | 1 | 1.5 | | | | | | |-----------------------------------------------------------------
| | | | | | aluminum | 1 | 1 | 1.5 | | | | | | |-----------------------------------------------------------------
6. Make a hole for blasting cap in the center of the explosive with rod
or stick. Note: Do not place blasting cap in place until the funnel shaped
charge is ready to use.
How to Use ---------- 1. Place
blasting cap in the hole in top of the charge. If non-electric cap is used,
be sure cap is crimped around fuse and fuse is long enough to provide safe
delay. 2. Place (tape if necessary) the Funnel Shaped Charge on the target
so that nothing is between the base of charge and target. 3. If electric
cap is used, connect cap wires to firing circuit. Linear shaped Charge
Sec. II, No. 10 This shaped charge made from construction materials will
cut through nearly 3 inches of armor depending opon the liner used. (see
table)
Materials --------- Standard
structural angle or pipe (see table) wood or cardboard container hacksaw
-----| | only is pipe is used vise -----| wooden rod, .25 in. in diameter
explosive blasting cap tape Table | Type | material | liner size | Standoff
| Penetration| ------------|-----------------|-------------|------------|------------|
| angle | steel | 3x3 legs x | 2 in. | 2.75 in | | | | .25 in web | | |
|-----------|-----------------|-------------|------------|------------|
| angle | aluminum | 2x2 legs x | 5.5 in. | 2.5 in. | | | | 3/16 web |
| | |-----------|-----------------|-------------|------------|------------|
| pipe half | aluminum | 2 diameter | 2 in. | 2 in. | | section | | | |
| |-----------|-----------------|-------------|------------|------------|
|pipe half | copper | 2 diameter | 1 in. | 1.75 in. | |section | | | |
| |-----------|-----------------|-------------|------------|------------|
Procedure --------- Note: These
were the only linear shaped charges of this type that were found to be
more efficient than the ribbon charge. Ribbon Charge: No standoff; just
place on target. 1. If pipe is used: A. Place the pipe in the vise and
cut pipe in half lengthwise. Remove the pipe half sections from the vise.
B. Discard one of the pipe half sections, or save for another charge. 2.
Place angle or pipe half section with open end face down on a flat surface.
3. Make container from any material available. The container must be as
wide as the angle or pipe half section, twice as high, and as long as the
desired cut to be made with the charge. 4. Place container over the liner
(angle or pipe half section) and tape liner to container. 5. If plastic
explosive is used, fill the container with the explosive ising small quantities,
and tamp with wooden rod or stick. Note: If castable explosive is used,
refer to step 4 of Sec. II, No. 3. 6. Cut wooden rod to lengths 2 inches
longer than the standoff length (see table). Postition the rods at the
corners of the explosive filled container and hold in place with tape.
Note: The position of the rods on the container must conform to standoff
and penetration dimensions given in the table. 7. Make a hole for blasting
cap in the side od the container .5 in. above the liner and centered with
the wooden rod. Note: Do not place blasting cap inside Linear Shaped Charge
until ready to detonate.
How to Use ---------- 1. Place
blasting cap into hole on the side of the container. If non-electric cap
is used, be sure cap is crimped around fuse and fuse is long enough. 2.
Place (tape if necessary) the LSC on the target so that nothing is between
base of charge and target. 3. If electric cap is used, connect cap wires
to firing circuit. Soap Dish charges Sec. II, No. 11 Using common plastic
soap dishes, two special charges can be prepared. One is a miniature claymore
mine, and the other being a miniature Pertoleum Oil/Liquid charge for the
destruction of small P.O.L. storage containers and vehicle gas tanks.
Materials --------- Soap dishes
consisting of two separate halves, the bottom flat half fitting into the
to bevelled half (standard soap dish) Any homemade high explosive blasting
cap .25 in. diameter steel ball bearings and epoxy resin (wristrocket ammo)
theremite incediary (Sec. V, No. 20), or other metalized incediary mixture
small alnico 5 horseshoe or double sided adhesive tape, or both Procedure
--------- 1. To produce a miniature claymore mine, follow the steps below.
A. Separate the two halves of the soap dish. B. Fill the bottom half with
any powerful homemade explosive. C. Fill the top half to a depth of 3/4
inch with 1/4 inch diameter steel ball bearings held together with a light
coating of epoxy resin. D. Insert the bottom half into the top half and
secure in place with tape. 2. To produce a miniature P.O.L. charge, follow
the steps below: A. Separate the two halves of the soap dish. B. Fill 1/2
inch of the bottom half with a metalized incendiary such as thermite or
aluminum granules. C. Fill the remaining half of the bottom half with any
powerful homemade explosvie. D. Fill 1/2 to the top half with the same
homemade explosive. E. Insert the bottom half of the soap dish into the
top half and secure in place with tape.
How to Use ---------- 1. Claymore
mine: A. Cover the bottom of the bottom half of the mine with double-sided
adhesive tape or attach one horseshoe magnet to each side of the top half
and secure in place with epoxy resin. Both attachment methods can be combined
so the mine can be attached to almost any surface area. B. Using a sharp
pointed rod, 1/4 inch in diameter, puncture a hole in the rear center of
the bottom half. C. Insert a detonator into this hole and attach a fuzing
mechanism to the sides of the soap dish and connect to the detonator. D.
Attach the bottom of the soap dish, vertically, to any surface facing the
target area, within a 45 degree angle from either side of the center line
of the soap dish. For attachment, use either the tape or magnets, or both
if possible. 2. P.O.L. charge: A. Cover the bottom of the bottom half of
the mine with double sided adhesive tap, or attach one horseshoe magnet
to each side of the top half and secure in place with epoxy resin. Both
attachment methods can be combined so the mine can be easily be attached
to almost any surface area. B. Using a sharp pointed rod, 1/4 inch in diameter,
puncture a hole in the rear certer of the top half of the soap dish. C.
Insert the detonator into this hole and attach a fuzing mechanism to sides
of the soap dish and connect to the detonator. D. Using magnets, tape,
or both, attach the bottom of the soap dish to any surface containing petroleum
products, i.e., 55 gallon storage drums, rail and truck P.O.L. shipping
cars, gas tanks of vehicles, etc. Mini-Compound detonators Sec. II, No.
12 Miniature compound detonators can be made from empty .22 Magnum sheel
casings, a quantity of secondary (booster) explosive, a smaller quantity
of primary explosive, an ignition charge and a loading press. These powerful
miniature detonators are used in the construction of various type of miniature
hand grenades, i.e., cigarette lighter hand grenade, shotgun shell impact
grenade and explosive candles. Materials --------- Empty .22 magnum shell
casings or copper, brass or aluminum tubing 1/4 inch in diameter, 1 inch
long, and closed at one end. A quantity of secondary explosive, i.e., RDX
(Sec. I, No. 15) or (Sec. I, No. 38), PETN (the center filling of Primacord
(detonating cord) A quantity of primary explosive, i.e., mercury fulminate
(Sec. I, No. 24), HMTD (Sec. I, No. 17), acetone peroxide (Sec. I, No.
28) An ignition charge or either black powder (Sec. I, No. 3) or small
arms propellant A loading press, or materials to construct a loading press
as illustrated
Procedure --------- 1. If a
loading press is not available, construct on as illustrated below: (this
is going to be touchy, please stick with me) 5 feet |--------------------------------------------------------|
_ metal plate for slot | | 6 ins. \ | | <- 1 inch thick wooden barricade
|-------| \ | | _ \ _| | /> slot for lever /- 2x4 __| |__________________||
|/_______________________________ / wooden |_|o|___________________ ________________________________||
lever | | | -| | o--------- | | 2 || | ___peep hole | | | | |-|_/ (safety
glass) | | | _ /1 |-| | _| |_ ___ / _| |_ | |_____| |_|_| |_____| | /-------------^--------------------\
| <- Rope |_____________|____________________| | | | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | <-table | | | detonator | | __|__ |_| |_| weight-> |___|
Notes: 1. Block- wood (10" x 10" x 6" or steel (6" x 6" x 6") with 3/8"
diameter hole 1" deep. 2. 1/4" O.D. hard brass or wood ram Note: The loading
press is provided with a protective barrier and a remote system of rope
and pulley operation to provide operator safety during loading. Only wood
and spark-proof (brass) metals are used near the exlosive. CAUTION: Making
detonators is hazardous business that can be made safe by taking certain
precautions. Operations must be performed slowly and with great care. Cleanliness
is important. Dirt in the explosive or containers will greatly increase
sensitivity to detonation by impact or shock. If possible the air should
be moist. Boil a bucket of water in the room before starting to work if
the air is dry. When inserting and removing the ramrod and when carrying
primary explosives, use tongs or pliers. If possible, uuse only one hand
at a time when handling the primary explosive in the loading process and
wear protective goggles at all times. 2. With the arrangement shown on
the preceeding page, the pressure applied to the exlosive inside the shell
casing will be about 200x the force applied to the end of the lever. That
is, a 20 pound weight pulling at at the handle will compress the explosive
with a press of 4,000 lbs. of pressure per sq. in. This pressure is required
for the best sensitivity of mercury fulminate. A 2.5 gallon bucket of water
weighs about 20 lbs. 3. Light a candle and let two drops of wax drop into
the bottom of each shell casing before using. 4. Allow the wax to cool,
then insert the shell casing into the loading block. 5. Fill the shell
casing to a depth of 1/4 in. with RDX or PETN secondary explosive. Gently
insert the ram. 6. Compress the explosive slowly and evenly by pulling
on the rope until the weight leaves the ground. Remove the ram carefully.
7. Continue the adding and pressing operation until a column of secondary
explosive 5/8 inch high has been pressed into the 1 inch long shell casing.
8. Add a small quantity of primary explosive on top of the secondary explosive
and gently insert the ram. 9. Continue the adding and pressing operation
until an additional 1/4 inch column of primary explosive has been pressed
on top of the 5/8 inch column of secondary explosive. 10. Gently compress
the remaining 1/8 inch of empty space with an igniter of either black powder
or smokeless pistol powder. 11. Seal the top with either tape or wax paper
held in place with a small rubber band until ready to use. Note: When inserting
the detonator into a selected hand grenade, be careful not to tilt the
detonator and let the igniter charge spill out. Instead, place the grenade
over the detonator and lower it until the detonator is sealed into place,
then invert the genade and fill with explosive. Cigarette Lighter Hand
Grenade Sec. II, No. 13 An effective and powerful miniature hand grenade
can be made from a Zippo brand cigarette lighter, any homemade explosive
and a mini-compound detonator (Sec. II, No. 12). This explosive device
can be used either as a hand grenade or a boobytrap.
Materials --------- Any powerful
homemade explosive, i.e., potassium chlorate/nitrobenzene (Sec. I, No.
32), ammonium nitrate/nitromethane (Sec. I, No. 34), etc. Mini-Compound
detonator (Sec. II, No. 12) Black powder (Sec. I, No. 3) Zippo cigarette
lighter, approx. 2 1/4" length x 1 1/2" Diam., or larger Copper and brass
tubing 9/32" diameter x 12" long hacksaw small mixing bowl epoxy resin
Procedure --------- 1. Obtain a zippo lighter with outer case dimensions
of approx. 2 1/4 long x 1 1/2" wide x 1/2" deep. Separate the inner lighter
mechanism from the outer casing and remove all the cotton wadding. 2. Remove
the cotton ignition wick and convert it into a black powder time fuse by
the following steps: A. Place a couple of tablespoons of black powder (sec.
I, No. 3) into a small mixing bowl and add enough water until it looks
like a heavy oil. B. The cotton wick is placed in the oil-like mixture
and stirred for 15 minutes so that it becomes saturated with the black
powder mix. C. The cotton wick is removed and hung to dry for four hours.
D. This mixture fuse was found to have a burning rate of 1.3 seconds per
inch. Note: Be sure and test burning time on a similar wick before using.
If a new Zippo lighter is used, it is necessary to use the lighter approx.
25 times before disassembling. This will make the lighter appear used and
will blacken the cotton ignition wick which will help disguise the black
powder time fuse that will be reinserted. 3. Reinsert the cotton wick fuse
through the wick hole and leave enough fuse in the ignition chamber so
that it can easily bepulled from the igniter. Note: Knot the end of the
fuse inside the lighter sothat it won't pull free later when using. 4.
Using a hacksaw, cut a one inch length from a 9/32" diameter piece of copper
or brass tubing. 5. Insert this one inch tube over the wick hole and use
a 1/8" layer of epoxy resin or other strong glue to seal in place. 6. Insert
a mini-compound detonator (Sec. II, No. 12) into the holding tube inside
the lighter. Caution: The mini-compound detonator is a sensitive and extremely
powerful detonator and should be handled carefully at all times. 7. Fill
the remaining space to within 1/8" of the bottom with any homemade explosive
this manual. Note: The explosive can be loaded in first, and when ready
to use, simply insert the detonator. When using potassium chlorate or ammonium
nitrate for a base explosive, load the cigarette lighter with either base
explosive and insert the detonator. When ready to use, simply pour in the
liquid activator of either nitromethane or nitrobenzene. 8. After filling
to within 1/8" in. of the bottom with explosive, cut off a 1/8" strip from
the original cotton wadding and insert in the bottom of the lighter to
complete the disguise.
How to Use ---------- 1. To
use as a hand grenade, simply pull out a length of fuse and ignite with
a separate cigarette lighter or match. 2. To use as a boobytrap, insert
the lighter, with a short fuse, into the target area. Shotgun shell impact
grenade Sec. II, No. 14 An effective and powerful impact grenade can be
made from a 12 gauge shotgun shell, any homemade high explosive and a mini-compound
detonator (Sec. II, No. 12). This explosive devise can be used as an impact
grenade or as a boobytrap.
Materials --------- Any homemade
explosive, i.e., potassium chlorate/nitrobenzene (Sec. I, No. 32), ammonium
nitrate/nitromethane (Sec. I, No. 34), etc. Mini-compound detonator (Sec.
II, NO. 12) 12 gauge shotgun shell wood dowel or steel bar 11/16" in diameter
and any length beyond 1/2" hacksaw drill w/ 1/4" bit pieces of cloth, 12"
x 12" epoxy resin or strong glue steel ball bearings 3/8" in diameter electrical
tape
Procedure --------- 1. Either
cut off or open up the forward end of any 12 gauge shotgun shell and empty
out the shot, wadding, spacer and propellant. Retain the shell casing.
2. In order for the mini-detonator to be over the center of the primer,
a detonator guide cylinder has to be made from either a piece of bar steel
or a wooden dowel in the following manner: A. Using a hacksaw, cut a 1/2"
length of 11/16" steel bar or wooden dowel. B. Drill a 1/4" diameter hole
in the center of the 1/2 long wood or metal cylinder. Note: It is preferred
that a steel cylinder be used in ot to lend more weight to the base of
the shell case. 3. After the guide cylinder is prepared, it is glued in
place in the bottom of the shotshell case. Note: Do not place any glue
on the primer in the base of the shell casing. 4. The mini-compound detonator
(Sec. II, No. 12) is the inserted, open end down, into the guide cylinder
and glued in place. Caution: The mini-compound detonator is a sensitive
and extremely powerful detonator and should be handled carefully at all
times. 5. Fill the remaining space in the shotshell case with any homemade
high explosive in this manual. Note: When using potassium chlorate or ammonium
nitrate for a base explosive, load the shotshell case with either base
explosive. When ready to use, simply pour in the liquid activator of either
nitromethane/nitrobenzene. 6. After the top of the shotshell has been resealed,
tape a 3/8" steel ball bearing in place over the center of the primer in
the base of the shell. 7. Cloth streamers (12" x 1/2") are then taped in
place around the shotshell. These streamers lend stability in flight and
insure bottom base impact with the ground. 8. As a further refinement,
nails can be taped around the shotshell case with ntches, spaced 1/4" apart,
down the length of the shell.
How to Use ---------- 1. To
use as a grenade, simply throw into the target area. 2. To use as a boobytrap,
do not attach streamers or the ball bearing. Simply insert the shotshell
case into the target area. Platter Charge Sec. II, No. 15 An extremely
effective directional charge can be made from a steel pipe cap, any high
explosive, and a tin can. This charge is effective against such targets
as transformers, generators, fuel storage containers and vehicles. It can
be fired horizontally or used as an improvised land mine and fired vertically.
Materials --------- Steel pipe
cap with a diameter between 1" and 24" Tin can or other similar container
with an inside diameter being the same as the steel pipe cap sheet of wood
1" thick steel pipe cap, (between 1 - 2" in diameter) and a piece of pipe,
(approx. 2" in length drill with 1/4" bit Solid or liquid high explosive,
i.e., nitromethane/ammonium nitrate explosive (Sec. I, No. 34), fertilizer/hydrazine
explosive (Sec. I, No. 36), or nitromethane liquid explosive (Sec. I, No.
35) blasting cap
Procedure --------- 1. Obtain
a steel pipe cap. An ideal diameter would be 6 - 12". However, pipe caps
as small as 1" may be used. 2. Locate a coffee can or similar container
with an inside diameter the same as the outside diameter of the pipe cap.
Remove the lid (do not throw away) and empty the contents of the can and
clean it out. 3. Place the pipe cap in the bottom of the can with the concave
side facing the bottom of the can. 4. An exact center priming disk must
be made from a 1" thick piece of wood in the following manner: A. Using
the coffee can lid from step 2 as a template, place it on a sheet of wood
1" thick and mark the outside diameter with a pencil. B. Using a saw, cut
the disk out of the sheet of wood. After cutting the disk out, drill a
1/4" hole through the exact center. If this priming disk is to be used
as a packing tool for the solid explosive, center sink the 1/4" center
hole to fit the head of a 1/4" bolt. Set the disk aside for later use.
5. If a solid explosive is being used. the following constructon technique
should be used: A. Using the center priming disk prepared from step 4,
a uniform packing tool can be prepared by the addition of a 1/4" nut and
bolt, a steel pipe cap and a piece of pipe. B. Carefully pack an amount
of solid explosive equal to the weight of the pipe cap around and behind
the pipe cap using the packing tool. For example, if the pipe cap weighs
five pounds, use five pounds of solid explosive. Note: For this charge
to be effective, it is necessary to uniformly pack the explosive behind
the pipe cap with no air gaps. C. After the explosive has been loaded into
the tin can behind the inverted pipe cap, disassemble the packing tool
and place the priming disk over the ompressed explosive. Seal the inside
edges with glue, wax, or tar. The discarded pipe handle and cap can be
used later to form a pipe hand grenade (Sec. II, No. 1) Note: The wood
priming disk prepared in step 4 has three ain uses: as a packing tool for
solid explosive, as a lid to keep the explosve from falling out of the
conainer, and as a template that insures exact rear center priming of the
charge. D. After the priming disk has been sealed in place, insert a blasting
cap through the center hole and into the solid explosive to a depth of
3/4". Seal around the cap with glue, wax or tar. 6. When using a liquid
explosive, an easier construction method may be used: A. When ready to
use, simply pour in an amount of liquid exlosive equal to the weight of
the pipe cap and seal in place the wood priming disk prepared instep 4.
B. Insert a blasting cap through the center hole and into the liquid explosive
to a depth of 3/4". Seal around the blasting cap with glue, wax, or tar.
7. If a coffee can was used in the construction, there should still be
sufficient room inside the can for a fuzing mechanism, i.e., a wrist watch
delay timer with battery (Sec. VI, No. 4), or a small remote control radio
reciever. ----------------------------------- | *&*)+(_)(*_&)(_*&)(*&&)(*&*(&()
| | *&(@#*_#() coffee ()&*^)^67^& | | ^&%^$&^$#%^T*T*&%^*&%$&*^%^*&%^
| |---------------------------------| <- false bottom && = bulb
initia.| () () () () |&&| /----------\ | <- batteries in series
w/ XXX = sealant-> |************XXX|c |XXX***********| wrist watch timer
|***************|a |**************| <- wood packing disk |***************|p
|**************| |///////////////| |//////////////| |///////////////| |//////////////|
|///////////////|__|//////////////| |/////////////////////////////////|
|/////////// explosive /////////| |/////////////////////////////////| |//////---------------------\\\\\\|
|//////| pipe cap |\\\\\\| |//////| |\\\\\\| |_____/ \_____| || || ||_______________________________||
----------------------------------- Note: A second disguise can be achieved
by inseting a third disk covering the fizing mechanism, sealing around
the edges of the disk and then pouring coffee into the can until full.
Place the plastic sealing lid over the top of the can to complete the disguise.
How to Use ---------- 1. The
unique capability of this charge is that it can be fired through a chain
link fence and into its target without any loss of effectiveness. At close
range the platter will penetrate about one inch of mild steel plate. It
is effective at ranges up to 100 feet or more, although at this distance
penetration is reduced to about 1/4" of mild steel at best and sighting
becomes a problem unless the target is a very large one. 2. Upon detonation,
the platter is projected forward at tremendous velocity. The air in front
of the platter is compressed and becomes superheated. It is this mass of
air, moving at extremely high velovity, that first penetrates the target.
The platter follows and may indeed strike the target, but research has
shown that the primary destruction effect is created by the compacted high
velocity air column. SCIMP (Special Charge Improvised Projectile) charge
Sec. II, No. 16 Using materials that are readily available in its construction,
this mine will defeat almost any target that is mad-made, i.e., tanks,
armored cars, buildings, etc. This charge is four times for effective than
any other directional charge, to include shaped and platter charges. This
directional charge utilizes two special techniques to achieve its effectiveness;
one is sandwiching an explosive charge between two steel plates, and the
other involves detonating this charge from all sides at the same time (periphreal
detonation).
Materials --------- oil filter
cap or other similar steel dish No. 6 sheet metal screws, 1" long steel
plate, 1/8" thick Solid or liquid high explosive, i.e., fertilizer/nitromethane,
fertilizer/hydrazine liquid explosive, and nitromethane liquid explosive
wood or styrofoam sheets, 1" thick blasting cap coffee can or other similar
container drill with 1/4" bit
Procedure --------- 1. Obtain
a concave steel dish, 3" to 12" in diameter: for example, by removing the
center retaining bolt from any two piece oil filter assy. and using the
oil filter cap (an oil filter from a 1951-53 chevy, with a diameter of
5 1/4" is ideal). 2. Plug the bolt hole in the center of the cap with wood,
rubber, or cork stopper. 3. Using the oil filter cap as a template, place
it on a sheet of steel 1/8" thick and mark the outside diameter with a
pencil. 4. Using a hacksaw, cut the disk out of the plate. 5. Repear steps
3 and 4, cutting out two disks from a 1" thick sheet of wood or styrofoam.
6. Take the three disks (one steel and the other two wood or styrofoam)
and glue them together with the steel disk on one side. Set aside for later
use. 7. Locate a coddee can or similar container with an inside diameter
1/4" to 1/2" larger that the outside diameter of the filter ca. Remove
the lid (do not throw away) and empty and clean the can. 8. Using the coffee
can lid as a template, repeat steps 3 and 4 on a 1" thick sheet of wood,
and after cutting the disk out, drill a 1/4" hole in the exact center and
set aside for later use. 9. Place the oil can filter cap in the bottom
center of the coffee can and glue in place with the concave cap facing
towards the bottom of the cap. | ____ | | ____________/ \___________ |
|/ \| |-------------------------------| 10. If a solid explosive is being
used, the following construction technique should be used: A. Mark two
rings around the inside of the coffee can; one 3" from the bottom of the
can, and the second 5 5/8" from the bottom of the can. B. Carefully pack
the explosive uniformly around the filter cap until it reaches the 3" mark
inside the can. Note: The 1" thick wood disk prepared from step 8 can be
used as a uniform packing tool by attaching an improvised handle using
a piece of pipe, two pipe caps and a 1/4" nut and bolt. C. After reaching
the 3" mark inside the can, place the three later disk assy. (prepared
in step 6) on top of the compressed explosive. Center it with the steel
disk on the explosive. D. Carefully pack the explosive between the inside
edge of the can and the edge of the three layer disk assy. until the explosive
level is even with the top of the disk. E. Carefully pack an additional
1/2" layer of explosive on top of the last styrofoam or wood disk. This
layer should reach the second ring marked inside the can. Note: Again the
wood disk/pipe packing tool can be used to compress the remaining explosive
on top of the charge. F. Disassemble the wood disk/pipe packing tool by
removing the center nut and bolt that holds the two together. Save and
use the pipe for a future pipe hand grenade (Sec. II, No. 1). G. Place
the 1" thick wood packing disk on top of the explosive contained inside
the can and seal with glue, wax or tar. H. When ready to use, insert a
1/4" blasting cap through the center hole in the wood disk and into the
1/2" layer of explosive. Note: The wood disk prepared from step 8 has three
main uses; a packing tool, a lid to prevent the explosive from falling
out of the container, and a template that insures rear center priming of
the charge. 11. When using a liquid explosive, a slightly different and
easier construction method is used: A. Mark two rings around the inside
of the can; one 5 1/8" from the bottom of the can and the second 6 5/8
from the bottom of the can. B. Place the top of the three layer disk assy.
at the level of the first ring marked inside the can and secure in place
with four No. 6 sheet metal screws spaced wvery 90 degrees around the outside
of the coffee can and screwed into the center of the center disk assy.
Since the disk assy. is smaller than the inside diameter of the coffee
can, it can be held in place by inserting 1/4" wood dowels between the
can and the assy. When the four supporting screws have been screwed into
place, the wooden dowels can be removed. C. Place the remaining 1" thick
wood disk, prepared from step 8, at the level of the second ring marked
inside the can and secure in place with four more No. 6 sheet metal screws
spaced every 90 degrees around the outside of the can. Seal the inside
edges with wax, glue or tar. D. When ready to use, simply pour the liquid
explosive through the center hole until fill. Insert a blasting cap through
the hole and into the 1/2" layer of liquid explosive. Seal around the hole
and blasting cap with glue, wax, or tar. 12. If a coffee can was used in
the construction, there should still be sufficient room inside the can
for a fuzing mechanism, i.e., a watch delay timer with batteries (Sec.
IV, No. 4), or a small remote control radio reciever. 13. After the fuzing
mechanism has been inserted, the original metal lid that was removed and
set aside ealier is now glued inside the plastic sealing lid that comes
with most coffee cans and snapped back in place on top of the can. The
whole charge then resembles an ordinary coffee can. plastic lid | |------------------------------------------|
| *&&&*^%&&*&%^*&^**&^%%^&*%%^*&&%^**&^^%%
| | ()*(*((^*&&%^ coffee *&%$%$*&%&**(&*$ | | (_*(_)*&^&%^**&^(()*__)(*(*&^_*&^(^&%&%^
| |------------------------------------------|<-false bottom ()= batteries
| () () () () |&&| ----\\\\\\\\ |<-batteries in &&=
electric |+__________________+|c |+_----////////___+| series, clothes +=
seaant |+ |a | +| pin delay |+___________________|p |_________________+|
_ |//\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ | |\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\//| | 1/2" explosive |\\/////////////////
|__|////////////////\\| - on top of disc |\\--------------------------------------//|
|\\- -\\| |//--------------------------------------//| <- no space |\\--------------------------------------\\|
between metal screw ***** ***** metal screw |//--------------------------------------//|
|\\@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@\\| <- steel plate |//////////////////////////////////////////|
|//////////////////////////////////////////| |//////////////////////////////////////////|
|\\\\\\ "\" and "/" = explosive //////| |//////////////////////////////////////////|
|//////////////////////////////////////////| | /---\ | | /------------------------------------\
| | | oil cap | | | -------------------------------------- | ============================================
Note: A second disguise can be achieved by inserting a third disk covering
the fuzing mechanism, sealing around the edges of the disk and the pouring
coffee back into the can until full. Place the plastic sealing lid over
the top of the can to complete the disguise.
How to Use ---------- 1. The
SCIMP charge should be used when direct access to the target it not possible,
i.e., under or beside a roadway or hanging on a fence looking into the
target area. 2. The applications are very similar to a platter charge with
the exception that the SCIMP charge has far greater penetration ability
of hard targets at long distances than does the platter charge. The SCIMP
charge described here can penetrate 1" thick steel at 50 years. Note: The
SCIMP charge relies on a super-heated, rod-like projectile traveling at
ultra high velocity to destroy its target. Typist Note: I, the Mad Cracker,
am not going to type every damn picture in the book. If you would like
to build a "pipe pistol" I suggest you buy the books. Unless you totally
understand the instructions, I would not consider to attempt these without
pictures, as they are dangerous enough when done with the pictures. Pipe
Pistol for 9mm Ammunition Sec. III, No. 1 A 9mm pistol can be made from
1/4" steel, gas or water pipe and fittings.
Materials --------- 1/4" nominal
size water pipe, 4-6 inches long with threaded ends 1/4"solid pipe plug
Two (2) steel pipe couplings Metal strap, roughly 1/8" x 1/4" x 5" Two
(2) elastic bands Flat head nail, 6D or 8D (approx. 1/16" in diameter)
Two (2) wood screws #8 wood 8" x5" x 1" drill 1/4" wood or metal rod, approx.
8" long
Procedure --------- 1. Carefully
inspect pipe and fittings. A. Make sure that there are NO cracks or other
flaws in the pipe or fittings. B. Check inside diameter of pipe using a
9mm cartridge as a gauge. The bullet should closely fit into the pipe without
forcing but the cartridge case SHOULD NOT fit into pipe. C. Outside diameter
of pipe MUST NOT be less that 1 1/2 times bullet diameter (.536 in; 1.37
cm) 2. Drill a 9/16" diameter hole 3/8" into one coupling to remove the
thread. Note: Drilled section should fit tightly over smooth section of
the pipe. 3. Drill a 25/64" diameter hole 3/4" into pipe. Use cartridge
as a gauge; when cartridge is inserted into the pipe, the base of the case
should be even with the end of the pipe. Thread coupling tightly onto pipe,
drilled end first. 4. Drill a hole in the center of the pipe plug just
large enough for the nail to fit through. Note: THE HOLE MUST BE CENTERED
IN PLUG. 5. Push nail through plug until head of nail is flush with square
end. Cut nail off at other end 1/16" away from plug. Round off end of nail
wih file. 6. Bend metal strap to "U" shape and drill holes for wood screws.
File two small notches at top. 7. Saw or otherwise shape 1" thick hardwood
into stock. |- length must be 2" greater than length of unassembled pipe
-| - | <---2 ins.---> |-------------------------------| - | |-1 in.-|------------------
| | 1in. | / | | 6 | / --------- - i | / ----------------------------/
n | / / s | / <-2 in. -> / | / / | / / | / / | / / - ----------------
8. Drll a 9/16" diameter hole through the stock. The center of the hole
should be approx. 1/2" from the top. 9. Slide the pipe through this hole
and attach front coupling. Note: If 9/16" drill is not available, cut a
"V" groove in the top of the stock and tape pipe securely in place. 10.
Position metal strap on stock so that top will hit the head of the nail.
Attach to stock with wood screws on each side. 11. String elastic bands
from front coupling to notch on each side of the strap. SAFETY CHECK- TEST
FIRE PISTOL BEFORE HAND FIRING 1. Locate a barrier such as a stone wall
or large tree which you can stand behid in case the pistol ruptures when
fired. 2. Mount pistol solidly to a table or other rigid support at least
ten feet in front of the barrier. 3. Attach a cord to the firing strap
on the pistol. 4. Holing the other end of the cord, go behind the barrier.
5. Pull cord so that the firing strap is held back. 6. Release the cord
to fire the pistol. (If pistol does not fire, shorten the elastic bands
or increase their number) Note: Fire at least five rounds behind the barrier
and then re-inspect the pistol before you attempt to hand fire it.
How to Operate Pistol ---------------------
1. To load: A. Remove plug from rear coupling. B. Place cartridge into
pipe. C. Replace plug. 2. To Fire: A. Pull strap back and hold with thumb
until ready. B. Release strap. 3. To remove shell case: A. Remove plug
from rear coupling. B. Insert 1/4" diameter steel or wooden rod into front
of pistol and push shell case out. Shotgun (12 gauge) Sec. III, No. 2 A
12 gauge shotgun can be made from 1/4" water or gas pipe and fittings.
Materials --------- Wood 2" x 4" x 32" 3/4" nominal size water or gas pipe
20" to 30" long threaded on one end 3/4" steel coupling solid 3/4" pipe
plug metal strap (1/4" x 1/16" x 4") twine, heavy, approx. 100 yards 3
wood screws and screwdriver flat head nail 6D or 8D hand drill saw or knife
file shellac or lacquer elastic bands Procedure --------- 1. Careffully
inspect pipe and fittings A. Make sure there are no cracks or other flaws.
B. Check inside diameter of pipe. A 12-gauge shot shell should fit into
the pipe, but the brass rim should not. C. Outside diameter of pipe must
be at least 1 in. 2. Cut stock from wood using a saw or knife. (excuse
the shitty drawing) | <- 32 ins. approx. -> | |--1 in. | |-> 13.5 in.
<-|______________________________________ _ | ___________________________/____________________________________|_||2
in \->/__________________________/ --- - 4| | ________--- |-| i| | ________-------
2 in. n| |_____________________---------------- - 3. Cut a 3/8" deep "V"
groove in the top of the stock. 4. Turn coupling onto pipe until tight.
5. Coat pipe and "V" groove of stock with shellac or lacquer and, while
it is still wet, place pipe in "V" groove and wrap pipe and stock together
using two heavy layers of twine. Coat twine with shellac or lacquer after
each layer. 6. Drill a hole through the center of pipe plug large enough
for nail to pass through. 7. File threaded end of plug flat. 8. Push nail
through plug and cut off flat 1/32" past the plug. 9. Screw plug into coupling.
10. Bend 4" metal strap into "L" shape and drill hole for wood screw. Notch
metal strap on the long side 1/2" from the bend. 11. Position metal strap
on stock so that top will hit the head of the nail. Attach to stock with
wood screw. 12. Place screw in each side of stock about 4" in front of
metal strap. Pass elastic bands through notch in metal strap and attach
to screw on each side of the stock. SAFETY CHECK- TEST FIRE SHOTGUN BEFORE
HAND FIRING 1. Locate a barrier such as a stone wall or large tree which
you can stand behind in case the weapon explodes when fired. 2. Mount shotgun
rigidly to a table or other support at least ten feet in front of the barrier.
3. Attach a long cord to the firing strap on the shotgun. 4. Holding the
other end of the cord, go behind the barrier. 5. Pull the cord so that
the firing strap is held back. 6. Release the cord to fire the shotgun.
(if shotgun does not fire, shorten the elastic bands or increase their
numbers.) Note: Fire at least five rounds from behind the barrier and then
re-inspect the shotgun before you attempt to shoulder fire it.
How to Operate --------------
1. To load: A. Take plug out of coupling.. B. Put shotgun shell into pipe.
C. Screw plug hand tight into coupling. 2. To fire: A. Pull strap back
and hold with thumb. B. Release strap. 3. To unload: A. Take plug out of
coupling. B. Shake out used cartridge. Shotshell dispersion control Sec.
III, No. 4 When desired, shotshell can be modified to reduce shot dispersion.
Materials --------- Shotshell
screwdriver or knife Any of the following fillers: crushed rice rice flour
dry bread crumbs fine dry sawdust
Procedure --------- 1. Carefully
remove crimp from shotshell using a screwdriver or knife. Note: If cartrige
is of roll crimp type, remove top wad. 2. Pour shot from shell. 3. Replace
one layer of shot in the cartridge. pour in filler material to fill the
space between the shot. 4. Repeat step 3 until all shot has been replaced.
5. Replace top wad (if applicable) and re-fold crimp. 6. Roll shell on
flat surface to smooth out crimp and restore roundness. 7. Seal end of
case with wax. (from lit candle)
How to Use ---------- 1. This
round is loaded and fired in the same manner as a standard shotshell. The
shot spread will be about 2/3 that of a standard round. Carbine (7.62 mm;
.308 Winchester) Sec. III, No. 4 A rifle can be made from water or gas
pipe and fittings. Standard cartridges are used for ammunition.
Materials --------- wood approx.
2 in. x 4 in. x 30 in. 1/4 in. nominal size iron water or gas pipe 20 in.
long threaded at one end. 3/8 in. to 1/4 in. reducer 3/8 in. x 1 1/2" threaded
pipe 3/8" pipe coupling metal strap approx. 1/2 in. x 1/16 in. x 4 in.
twine, heavy, approx. 100 yards 3 wood screws and screwdriver flat head
nail about 1 in. long hand drill saw or knife file pipe wrench shellac
or lacquer elastic bands solid 3/8 in. pipe plug
Procedure --------- 1. Inspect
pipe and fittings carefully. A. Make sure there are no cracks or flaws.
B. Check inside diameter of pipe. A 7.62 mm projectile should fit 3/8"
into pipe. 2. Cut stock from wood using saw or knife. Dimensions: 30" long
4" high at butt end 15" section from butt to center of rifle 1" below original
taper 1 1/2" wide throughout 2" high at tapered end 3. Cut a 1/4" deep
"V" groove in top of the stock. 4. Fabricate rifle barrel from pipe. A.
File or drill inside diameter of threaded end of 20 in. pipe for about
1/4" so neck of cartridge case will fit in. B. Screw reducer onto threaded
pipe using pipe wrench. C. Screw short threaded pipe into reducer. D. Turn
3/8 pipe coupling onto threaded pipe using pipe wrench. All fittings should
be as tight as possible. Do not split fittings. 5. Coat pipe and "V" groove
of stock with shellac or lacquer. While still wet, place pipe in "V" groove
and wrap pipe and stock together using two layers of twine. Coat twine
with shellac or lacquer after each layer. 6. Drill a hole through center
of pipe plug large enough for nail to pass through. 7. File threaded end
of plug flat. 8. Push nail through plug and cut off rounded 1/32 in. past
the plug. 9. Screw plug into coupling. 10. Bend 4 in. metal strap into
"L" shape and drill hole for wood screw. Notch metal strap on the long
side 1/2" from bend. 11. Position metal strap on stock so that top will
hit the head of the nail. Attach to stock with wood screw. 12. Place screw
in each side of stock about 4 in. in front of metal strap. Pass elastic
bands through notch in metal strap and attach to screw on each side of
the stock. SAFETY CHECK- TEST FIRE RIFLE BEFORE HAND FIRING Follow all
notes and steps from Sec. III, No. 2.
How to Operate --------------
Follow all steps from Sec. III, No. 2. Including loading, firing, and unloading.
Reusable primer Sec. III, No. 5 A method of making a previously fired primer
reusable.
Materials --------- used cartridge
case 2 long nails having approx. the same diameter as the inside of the
primer pocket "Strike - Anywhere" matches: 2 or 3 needed for each primer
vise hammer knife or other sharp edged instrument
Procedure --------- 1. File
one nail to a needle point so that it is small enough to fit through hole
in primer pocket. 2. Place cartridge and nail between jaws of vise. 3.
Remove anvil from primer cup. 4. File down point of second nail until tip
is flat. 5. Remove indentations from face of primer cup with hammer and
flattened nail. 6. Cut off tips of the heads of "strike anywhere" matches
using knife. Carefully crush the match tips on dry surface with wooden
match stick until the mixture is the consistency of sugar. Note: Do not
crush more that 3 match tips at a time or the mixture may explode. 7. Pour
mixture into primer cup. Compress mixture with wooden match stick until
primer cup is fully packed. 8. Place anvil in primer pocket with legs down.
9. Place cup in pocket with mixture facing downward. 10. Place cartridge
case and primer cup between vise jaws, and press slowly until primer is
seated into bottom of pocket. The primer is now ready for use. Pipe Pistol
for .45 ammunition Sec. III, No. 6 A .45 caliber pistol can be made from
3/8 in. nominal diameter steel gas or water pipe and fittings. Lethal range
is about 15 yards.
Materials --------- Steel pipe,
3/8 in. in nominal diameter and 6 in. long with threaded ends 2 threaded
couplings to fit pipe solid pipe plug to fit pipe coupling hard wood, 8.5
in. x 6.5 in. x 1 in. tape or string flat head nail, approx. 1/16" in diameter
2 wood screws, approx. 1/16" in diameter metal strap, 5 in. x 1/4 in. x
1/8 in. bolt, 4 in. long, with nut (optional) elastic bands drills, one
1/16 in. in diameter and one the same as the bolt (optional) rod, 1/4"
in diameter and 8 in. long saw or knife
Procedure --------- 1. Carefully
inspect pipe and fittings. A. Make sure that there are no cracks or flaws
in the pipe and fittings. B. Check inside diameter of pipe using .45 caliber
cartridge as a gauge. The cartridge should fit into the pipe snugly, but
without forcing. C. Outside diameter of pipe MUST NOT BE less that 1 1/2
times the bullet diameter. 2. Follow procedure of Section III, No. 1, steps
4, 5 and 6. 3. Cut stock from wood using saw or knife. |<- 6 ins. ->|
--- |--------------------------------------| 1.5| | ---\ --- in_|_ |_________________
\ | | \ | | <- 2 ins. -> |____________ \ | 5 \ \ | i |<- 1.5 in->|
\ \ | n \ \ | s \ \ | \ \ | \ \ | \______________\ --- |<- 8.5 ins.
->| 4. Cut a 3/8 in. "V" groove in the top of the stock. 5. Screw couplings
into pipe. Screw plug into coupling. 6. Securely attach pipe to stock using
string or tape. 7. Follow procedures of Sec. III, No. 1, steps 10 and 11.
8. (optional) Bend bolt for trigger. Drill hole in stock and place bolt
in hole so strap will be anchored by bolt when pulled back. If bolt is
not available, use strap as trigger by pulling back and releasing. 9. Follow
safety check, Sec. III, No. 1. How to Use ---------- 1. To load: A. Remove
plug from rear coupling. B. Wrap string or elastic band around extractor
groove so case will seat into barrel securely. C. Place cartridge into
pipe. D. Replace plug. 2. To fire: A. Pull metal strap back and anchor
in trigger. B. Pull trigger when ready to fire. C. If bolt is not used,
pull strap back and release. 3. To remove spent cartridge: A. Remove plug
from rear coupling. B. Insert rod into front of pistol and push cartridge
case out. Match gun Sec. III, No. 7 An improvised weapon using safety matches
as the propellant and a metal object as the projectile. Lethal reange is
about 40 yards.
Materials --------- Metal pipe,
24 in. long and 3/8 in. in diameter (nominal size) or its equivalent, threaded
on one end end cap to fit pipe safety matches- 3 books of 20 matches each
wood- 28 in. x 4 in. x 1 in. toy caps OR safety fuse OR "strike anywhere"
matches (2) electrical tape or string metal strap about 4 in. x 1/4 in.
x 3/16 in. 2 rags, about 1 in. x 12 in. and 1 in. x 3 in. wood screws elastic
bands metal object (steel rod, bolt with head cut off, etc.) approx. 7/16
in. in diameter, and 7/16 in. long if iron or stell, 1 1/4 in. long if
aluminum, 5/16 in. long if lead metal disk 1 in. in diameter and 1/16 in.
thick (quarter?) bolt, 3/32 in. or smaller in diameter and nut to fit saw
or knife
Procedure --------- 1. Carefully
inspect pipe and fittings. Be sure that there are no cracks or other flaws.
2. Drill a small hole in center of end cap. If safety fuse is used, be
sure it will pass through this hole. 3. Cut stock from wood using saw or
knife. Dimensions: recess ________________ __/_|_\______| ___- <- taper
4 in. at butt (high) butt->| _____------- 1 in. thick ------------- 1/2
in. at tapered end 28 in. long 14 in. recessed 4. Cut a 3/8 in. deep "V"
groove in top of stock. 5. Screw end cap onto pipe until tight. 6. Attach
pipe to stock with string or tape. 7. Bend metal strap into "L" shape and
drill holes for wood screw. Notch metal strap on long side 1/2 in. from
bend. 8. Position metal strap on stock so that the top will hit the center
of hole drilled in end cap. 9. Attach metal disk to strap with nut and
bolt. This will deflect blast from hole in end cap when gun is fired. Be
sure that head of bolt is centered on hole in end cap. 10. Attach strap
to stock with wood screws. 11. Place screw on each side of stock about
4 in. in front of metal strap. Pass elastic bands through notch in metal
strap and attach to screw on each side of stock.
How to Use ---------- A. When
toy caps are used: 1. Cut off match heads from 3 books of matches with
knife. Pour match heads into pipe. 2. Fold one end of 1 in. x 12 in. rag
3 times so that it becomes a 1 in. square of 3 thicknesses. Place rag into
pipe to cover match heads. 3. Place metal object into pipe. Place 1 in.
x 3 in. rag into pipe to cover projectile. Tamp firmly WITH CAUTION. 4.
Place toy caps over small hole in end cap. Be sure metal strap will hit
caps when it is released. Note: It may be necessary to tape toy caps to
end cap. 5 When ready to fire, pull strap back and release. B. When "Strike-Anywhere"
matches are used: 1. Follow steps 1-3 in A. 2. Carefully cut off tips of
heads of 2 "strike-anywhere" matches with knife. 3. Place one tip in hole
in end cap. Push in with wooden end of match stick. 4. Place second match
tip on a piece of tap. Place tape so match tip is directly over hole in
end cap. 5. When ready to fire, pull metal strap back and release. C. When
safety fuse is available (recommended for booby traps) 1. Remove end cap
from pipe. Knot one end of safety fuse. Thread safety fuse through hole
in end cap so that knot is on inside of end cap. 2. Follow steps 1-3 in
A. 3. Tie several matches to safety fuse outside end cap. Note: Bare end
of safety fuse should be inside match head cluster. 4. Wrap match covers
around matches and tie. Striker should be in contact with match bands.
5. Replace end cap on pipe. 6. When ready to fire, pull match cover off
with strong, firm, quick motion. Note: Follow safety check from Sec. III,
No. 1. Rifle Cartridge Sec. III, No. 8 A method of making a previously
fired rifle cartridges reusable. Note: See Sec. III, No. 5 for reusable
primer
Materials --------- Emppty
rifle cartridge, be sure it still fits inside gun threaded bolt that fits
into neck of cartridge at least 1 1/4 in. long safety or strike anywhere
matches (58 needed for 7.62 mm cartridge) rag wad (about 3/4 in. square
for 7.62 mm cartridge) knife saw
Procedure --------- 1. Remove
coating on head of matches by scaping match sticks with sharp edge. CAUTION:
If wooden "strike-anywhere" matches are used, cut off the tips first. Discard
tips or use for Reusable Primer, Sec. III, No. 5. 2. Fill previously primed
cartridge case with match head coatings up to its neck. Pack evenly and
tightly with match stick. Note: remove head of match stick before packing.
In all packing operations, stand off to the side and pack gently. Do not
hammer. 3. Place rag wad in neck of case. Pack with match stick from which
head was removed. 4. Saw off head end of bolt so remainder is approx. the
length of standard bullet. 5. Place bolt in cartridge case so that it sticks
out about the same length as the original bullet. Note: If bolt does not
fit snugly, force paper or match sticks between bolt and case, or wrap
tape around bolt before inserting in case. Pipe pistol for .38 caliber
ammunition Sec. III, No. 9 A .38 caliber pistol can be made from 1/4 in.
nominal diameter steel gas or water pipe and fittings. Lethal range is
approx. 33 yards.
Materials --------- Steel pipe,
1/4 in. nominal diameter and 6 in. long with threaded ends (nipple) solid
pipe plug, 1/4 in. nominal diameter 2 steel pipe couplings, 1/4 in. nominal
diameter metal strap, approx. 1/8 in. x 1/4 in. x 5 in. elastic bands flat
head nail- 6D or 8D, approx. 1/16 in. in diameter 2 wood screws, #8 hard
wood, 8 in. x 5 in. x 1 in. drill wood or metal rod, 1/4 in. diameter and
8 in. long saw or knife
Procedure --------- 1. Carefully
inspect pipe and fittings. A. Make sure there are no cracks or other flaws.
B. Check inside diameter of pipe using a .38 cartridge as a gauge. The
bullet should fit closely into the pipe without forcing, but then the cartridge
case should not fit into the pipe. C. Outside diameter of the pipe must
NOT be less that 1 1/2 times the bullet diameter. 2. Drill a 35/64 in.
diameter hole 3/4 in. into one coupling to remove the thread. Drilled section
should fit tightly over smooth section of pipe. 3. Drill a 25/64 in. diameter
hole 1 1/8 in. into pipe. Use cartridge as a gauge; when a cartridge is
inserted into the pipe, the shoulder of the case should butt against the
end of the pipe. Thread coupling tightly onto pipe. 4. Follow procedures
of Sec. III, No. 1, steps 4-11. 5. Follow safety check, Sec. III, No. 1.
How to Use ---------- Follow
procedures of How to Operate Pistol, Sec. III, No. 1, steps 1, 2 and 3.
Pipe Pistol for .22 caliber Ammunition (long or short) Sec. III, No. 10
A .22 cal. pistol can be made from 1/8 in. nominal diameter extra heavy,
steel gas or water pipe and fittings. Lethal range is about 33 yards. Materials
--------- steel pipe, extra heavy, 1/8 in. nominal diameter and 6 in. long
with threaded ends (nipple) solid pipe plug, 1/8 in. nominal diameter 2
steel pipe couplings, 1/8 in. x 1/4 in. x 5 in. elastic bands flat head
nail- 6D or 8D approx. 1/16 in. diameter 2 wood screws, #8 hardwood, 8
in. x 5 in. x 1 in. drill wood or metal rod saw or knife
Procedure --------- 1. Carefully
inspect pipe and fittings. A. Make sure that there are NO cracks or other
flaws in the pipe or fittings. B. Check inside diameter of pipe using a
.22 caliber cartridge, long or short, as a gauge. The bullet should fit
closely into the pipe without forcing, but the cartridge case should NOT
fit into the pipe. C. Outside diameter of pipe MUST NOT BE less than 1
1/2 times the bullet diameter. 2. Drill a 15/64 in. diameter hole 9/16
in. deep in the pipe for long cartridge. (If short cartridge is used, drill
hole 3/8 in. deep). When a cartridge is inserted into the pipe, the shoulder
of the case should butt against the end of the pipe. 3. Screw the coupling
onto the pipe. Cut coupling length to allow pipe plug to thread in pipe
flush against the cartridge case. 4. Drill a hole off center of the pipe
plug just large enough for the nail to fit through. Note: Drilled hole
MUST BE OFF CENTER in plug. (Centered, but low) 5. Push nail through pipe
plug until head of nail is flush with square end. Cut nail off at other
end 1/16 in. away from plug. Round off end with file. 6. Follow procedures
of Sec. III, No. 1, steps 6-11. 7. Follow safety check, Sec. III, No. 1.
How to Use ---------- Follow
procedures of How to Use, Sec. III, No. 1, steps 1, 2 and 3. Low Signature
System Sec. III, No. 11 Low signature systems (silencers) for improvised
small arms weapons (Sec. III) can be made from steel gas or water pipe
and fittings.
Materials --------- grenade
container (approx. 2.75 in. in diameter, 5 in. long) steel pipe nipple,
6 in. long- See table 1 for diameter 2 steel pipe couplings- See table
2 for dimensions cotton cloth- See table 2 for dimensions drill absorbent
cotton
Procedure --------- 1. Drill
hole in grenade container at both ends to fit outside diameter of pipe
nipple. (See table 1) 2. Drill four (4) rows of holes in pipe nipple. use
table 1 for diameter and location of hole. Table I. Low signature system
dimensions -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Holes Four (coupling) per rows A B C D row total -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
.45 cal. 3/8 1/4 3/8 3/8 12 48 .38 cal. 3/8 1/4 1/4 1/4 12 48 9 MM 3/8
1/4 1/4 1/4 12 48 7.62 MM 3/8 1/4 1/4 1/4 12 48 .22 cal 1/4 5/32 1/8* 1/8
14 50 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
*- extra heavy pipe All dimensions in inches 3. Thread on of the pipe couplings
on the drilled pipe nipple. 4. Cut coupling length to allow barrel of weapon
to thread filly into low signature system. Barrel should butt against end
of the drilled pipe nipple. 5. Separate the top half of the grenade container
from the bottom half. 6. Insert the pipe nipple in the drilled hole at
the base of the bottom half of container. Pack the absorbent cotton inside
the container and around the pipe nipple. 7. Pack the absorbent cotton
in top half of grenade container leaving hole in center. Assend container
to the bottom half. 8. Thread the other coupling onto the pipe nipple.
Note: The longer container and pipe nipple, with saw "A" and "B" dimensions
as those given, will further reduce the signature of the system.
How to Use ---------- 1. Thread
the low signature system on the selected weapon securely. 2. Place the
proper cotton wad size into the muzzle end of the system. Table II. Cotton
wadding- Sizes --------------------------------- weapon cotton wad size
--------------------------------- .45 1 1/2 in. x 6 in. .38 1 x 4 in. 9
mm 1 x 4 in. 7.62 mm 1 x 4 in. .22 not needed 3. Load weapon. 4. Weapon
is now ready to use. Cherry Bomb Flechette gun Sec. III, No. 14 Typist
note: In the Black book III, the .22 pistol is done again. Since the two
are almost identical and therefore, the second one has not be typed and
presented here. That is the reason for this section being No. 14, instead
of No. 13. A highly effective, hand held shotgun can be made from 3/4 in.
water pipe and the projectiles are homemade flechettes (steel darts) made
from box nails. This shotgun uses cherry bombs as a source of propellant
and can achieve muzzle velocities as high as 1300 feet per second. The
effective range is appox. 50 yards. Materials --------- 3/4 in. diameter
water pipe, 12 inches long 3/4 in. pipe coupler and pipe plug box nails
between 1 in. and 1 1/2 in. long short piece of 3/4 in. water pipe, approx
2 in. long rubber from inner tube cork from wine bottle plaster of paris
hammer and drill with 1/8 in. bit cherry bombs or homemade flash powder
Procedure --------- 1. Flechette
rounds can be made in the following manner: A. Flatten the heads of box
nails with a hammer. B. Pour plaster of paris into a mold made from a short
section of 3/4 in. water pipe, to a depth of 3/8 in. C. Insert the nails,
fins down, into this mold and allow the plaster of paris to harden. (approx.
20 minutes) D. Push the flechette round out of the mold and set aside for
later use. 2. For every flechette round that is prepared, a gas seal spacer
has to also be prepared in the following manner: A. Using the short section
of 3/4 in. water pipe as a die, sharpen the edges with a file and hammer
out circular pieces from a rubber inner tube. B. Using a razor blade, cut
a 3/4 in. diameter wine bottle cord into 1/2 in. sections. C. Attach the
rubber gas seal to the cork spacer with a thumb tack. 3. The shotgun may
be prepared in the following manner: A. Drill a 1/8 in. diameter hole through
the center of a 3/4 in. pipe plug, then screw the pipe plug into a 3/4
in. pipe coupler. B. Screw this pipe coupler assy. onto one end of a 12
inch long piece of 3/4 in. water pipe.
How To Use ---------- 1. Unscrew
the pipe coupler assy. from the end of the pipe. 2. Insert the flechette
round into the pipe. 3. Insert the gas seal spacer assy. behind the flechette
round. 4. Insert a cherry bomb into the pipe coupler assy. with the fuse
protruding from the rear of the pipe plug. 5. Screw the coupling assy.
onto the pipe and ignite the fuse. Note: Gloves should be worn if this
weapon is to be hand fired. With sufficient practice, it can be fired,
broken down, reloaded and fired again in a reasonably short period of time.
A second application is to fire it electrically. By using an electric bulb
initiator (Sec. IV, No. 1) and filling the bulb with the contents of a
cherry bomb, this weapon can be used as an effective booby trap to cover
a trail or other type of passageway. It can still be hand fired by means
of a hand held battery pack and switch arrangment. If cherry bombs are
not available, the following flash powders can be substituted: 1. 4 parts
by weight of potassium perchlorate 1 part by weight of antimony sulfide
1 part by weight aluminum powder 2. 3 parts by weight of potassium permanganate
2 parts by weight of aluminum powder 3. 4 parts by weight of potassium
chlorate 1 part by weight of sulfur 1 part by weight of aluminum powder
The fist mixture is standard cherry bomb powder and should be used whenever
possible. The second mixture is an excellent substitute for the first and
is relatively safe to handle. The third mixture is extremely shock sensitive
and should only be used as a last resort. To use these mixtures, separately
pulverize each ingredient into a fine powder. Add these powder ingredients
to a canning jar or other similar container with a tight fitting lid. Mix
thoroughly by gently tumbling the container between the hands of a period
of five minutes. Add one gram (approx. 1 teaspoon) to an electric bulb
initiator when ready to use. Recoilless launcher Sec. IV, No. 1 A dual
directional scrap fragment launcher which can be placed to cover the path
of advancing troops.
Materials --------- Iron water
pipe approx. 4 ft. long and 4 in. in diameter black powder (commercial)
or salvaged artillery propellant (about 1/2 lb.) safety or improvised fuse
(Sec. VI, No. 7) or iomprovised electrical igniter (Sec. IV, No. 2) stones
and/or metal scrap approx 1/2 in. in diameter- about 1 lb. 4 rags fro wadding-
each about 20 in. x 20 in. wire paper or rag Note: Be sure pipe has no
cracks or flaws
Procedure --------- 1. Place
propellant and igniter in paper or rag and tir with string so contents
cannot fall out. 2. Insert packaged propellant and igniter in center of
pipe. Pull string leads out one end of pipe. 3. Stuff a rag wad into each
end of pipe and lightly tamp using a flat end stick. 4. Insert stones and/or
scrap metal into each end of pipe. Be sure the same weight of material
is used on each side. 5. Insert a rag wad into each end of the pipe and
pack tightly as before.
How to Use ---------- 1. Place
scrap mine in a tree or pointed in the path of the enemy. Attach igniter
lead to the firing circuit. The recoilless launcher is ready to fire. 2.
If safety or improvised fuse is used instead of the detonator, place the
fuse into thepackaged propellant through a hole drilled in the center of
the pipe. Light free end of fuse when ready to fire. Allow for normal delay
time. Caution: Scrap will be ejected from both ends of the pipe. Shotgun
grenade launcher Sec. IV, No. 2 This device can be usedto launch a hand
grenade to a distance of 160 yards or more, using a standard 12 gauge shotgun.
Materials --------- Grenade
(Improvised pipe grenade, Sec. II, No. 1, may be used) 12 gauge shotgun
12 gauge shotgun shells two washers, (brass, steel, iron, etc.), having
outside diameter of 5/8 in. rubber disk 3/4 in. in diameterand 1/4 in.
thick (leather, neoprene, etc.) can be used a 30 in. long piece of hard
wood (maple, oak, etc.) approx. 5/8 in. in diameter- be sure it will slide
down barrel easily tin can (grenade and safety lever must fit into can)
two wooden blocks about 2 in. square and 1 1/2 in. thick one wood screw
about 1 in. long two nails about 2 in. long 12 gauge wads, tissue paper,
or cotton adhesive tape, string, or wire drill
Procedure --------- 1. Punch
hole in center of rubber disk large enough for screw to pass through. 2.
Make push rod as shown (I hate this): |+|::|+|-------------------------
=|+| |+|------------------------- =|+| |+|------------------------- |+|::|+|-------------------------
where: "=" is screw head ":" (space between) is rebber disk "|+|" is a
washer "|-|" is a wooden stick Note: Gun barrel is slightly less than 3/4
in. in diameter. If rubber disk does not fit in barrel, file or trim it
very slightly. It should fit tightly. 3. Drill a hole through the center
of one wooden block of such size that the push rod will fit tightly. Whittle
a depression around the hole on one side approx. 1/8 in. and large enough
for the grenade to rest in. 4. Place the base of the grenade in the wooden
block. Securely fasten grenade to block by wrapping tape (or wire) around
entire grenade and block. Note: Be sure that the tape or wire does not
cover hole in block or interfere with the operation of the grenade or safety
lever. 5. Drill hole through the center of the second wooden block, so
that it will just slide over the outside of the gun barrel. 6. Drill a
hole in the center of the bottom of the tin can the same size as the hole
in the block. 7. Attach can to block as shown: (this is getting on my nerves)
-----------------------------------------------| ______| \ | | ++|++++++|+
| | | | | | | | ++|++++++|+ / | | |______| | ------------------------------------------------
This diamgram (hmpf!) represents the can, a wood block at the bottom, and
nails holding the block on (they are to be bent over). 8. Slide the can
and block onto the barrel until muzzle passes the can's open end. Wrap
a small piece of tape around the barrel an inch or two from the end. Tightly
wrapped string may be used instead of tape. Force the can and wooden block
forward against the tape so that they are securely held in place. Wrap
tape around the barrel behind the can. Caution: Be sure that the can is
securely fastened to the gun barrel. If the can should become looses and
slip down the barrel after the launcher is assembled, the grenade will
explode aftr the egular delay time. 9. Remove crimp from a 12 gauge shotgun
shell with pen knife. Open cartridge. Pour shot from shell. Remove wads
and plastic liner, if present. 10. Empty the propellant onto a piece of
paper. Using a knife, divide the propellant in half. Replace half of the
propellant into the cartridge case. 11. Replace the 12 gauge cardboard
wads into cartridge case. Note: If wads are not available, stuff tissue
paper or cotton into the cartridge case. Pack tighly.
How to Use ---------- Method
I- when ordinary grenade is used: 1. Load cartridge into gun. 2. Push end
of push-rod without the rubber disk into hole in wooden block fastened
to grenade. 3. Slowly push rod into barrel until it rests against the cartridge
case and grenade is in can. If the grenade is not in the can, remove rod
and cut to proper size. Push rod back into barrel. 4. With can holding
safety lever of grenade in place, carefully remove safety pin. Caution:
Be sure that the sides of the can restrain the grenade safety lever. If
the safety lever should be released for any reason, the grrenade will explode
after regular delay time. 5. To fire grenade launcher, rest gun in ground
at angle determined by range desired. A 45 degree andgle should give about
160 yards. Method II- when improvised pipe grenade is used: An improvised
pipe grenade (Sec. II, No. 1) may be launched in a similar manner. No tin
can is needed. 1. Fasten the grenade to the block as shown above with the
fuse hole at the end opposite the block. 2. Push end of push-rod into hole
in wooden block fastened to grenade. 3. Push rod into barrel until it rests
against cartridge case. 4. Load cartrige in gun. 5. Follow step 5 of method
I. 6. Using a fuse with at least a 10 second delay, light the fuse before
firing. 7. Fire when the fuse burns to 1/2 its original length. Grenade
Launcher (57 mm cardboard container) Sec. IV, No. 3 An improvised method
of launching a standard grenade 150 yards or an improvised grenade 90 yards
using a discarded cardboard ammunition container.
Materials --------- Heavy cardboard
container with inside diameter of 2 1/2 to 3 in. and at least 12 in. long-
ammunition container is suitable black poswder- 8 grams (124 grams) or
less safety or improvised fuse (Sec. VI, No. 7) grenade or (improvised
grenade, Sec. II, No. 1) rag, approx. 20 in. x 24 in. paper Caution: 8
grams of black powder yield the maximum ranges. Do not use more than this
amount. See improvised scale, Sec. VII, No. 8, for measuring.
Procedure --------- Method
I- If standard grenade is used: 1. Discard top of container. Make small
hole in bottom. 2. Place black powder in paper. Tie end with string so
contents cannot fall out. Place package in container. 3. Insert rag wadding
into container. Pack tightly with CAUTION. 4. Measuring off a length of
fuse that will give the desired delay. Thread this through hole in bottom
of container so tat it renetrates into the black powder package. Note:
If improvised fuse is used, be sure fuse fits loosely through hole in bottom
of container. 5. Hold grenade safety lever and carefully withdraw safety
pin from grenade. Insert grenade into container, lever end first. CAUTION:
If grenade safety lever should be released for any reason, grenade will
explode after normal delay time. 6. Bury container about 6 in. in the ground
at 30 degree angle, bringing fuse up alongside container. Pack ground tightly
around container. CAUTION: The tightly packed dirt helps to hold the tube
together during the firing. DO not fire unless at least the bottom half
of the container is buried in solidly packed dirt. Method II- If improvised
pipe hand grenade is used: 1. Follow step 1 on above procedure. 2. Measure
off a piece of fuse at least as long as the cardboard container. Tape one
end of this to the fuse from the blasting cap in the improvised grenade.
Be sure ends of fuse are in contact with each other. 3. Place free end
of fuse and black powder on piece of paper. Tie ends with string so contents
will not fall out. 4. Place package in tube. Insert rag wadding. Pack so
it fits snugly. Place pipe hand grenade into tube. Be sure it fits snugly.
5. Insert fuse through hole in end of cardboard container. Be sure it goes
into black powder package. Note: Cardboard container may be used for ony
one firing. 6. Follow step 6 of method I.
How to Use ---------- Light
fuse when ready to fire. Fire Bottle launcher Sec. IV, No. 4 A device using
2 items (shotgun and chemical fire bottle) that can be used to start or
place a fire 80 yards from launcher.
Materials --------- standard
12 gauge shotgun or improvised shotgun (Sec. III, No. 2) improvised fire
bottle (Sec. V, No. 1) tin can, about 4 in. in diameter and 5 1/2 in. high
wood, about 3 in. x 3 in. x 2 in. nail, at least 3 in. nuts and bolts or
nails, at least 2 1/2 in. long rag paper drill If standard shotgun is used:
Hard wood stick, about the same lenght of the shotgun barrel and about
5/8 in. in diameter- stick need not to be round 2 washers (brass, steel,
iron, etc.) having outside diameter of 5/8 in. one wood screw about 1 in.
long rubber disk, 3/4 in. in diameter and 1/4 in. thick (leather, cardboard,
etc. may also be used) 12 gauge shorgun ammunition If improvised shotgun
is used: Fuse, safety or improvised fast burning (Sec. VI, No. 7) hard
wood stick, about the same length of the barrel and 3/4 in. in diameter
black powder- 9 grams, See Sec. VII. No. 8)
Procedure --------- Method
I- If improvised shotgun is used: 1. Drill hole in center of wood block
approx. 1 in. deep. Hole should have approx. the same diameter of the woden
stick. 2. Drill 2 small holes on opposite sides of the wooden block. Hole
should be large enough for bolts to pass through. 3. Fasten can to block
with nuts and bolts. Note: Can may also be securely fastened to clock by
hammering several nails through can and block. Do dot drill holes, and
be careful not to split wood. 4. Place wooden stick into hole in wooden
block. Drill small hole (same diameter as that of 3 in. nail) through wooden
block and through wooden stick. Insert nail in hole. 5. Crumple paper and
place in bottom of can. Place another piece of paper around fire bottle
and insert into can. Use enough paper so that bottle will fit snugly. 6.
Place safety fuse and black powder on paper. Tie each end with string.
7. Thread fuse through hole in plug. Place powder package in rear of shotgun.
Screw plug finger tight into coupling. Note: Hole in plug may have to be
enlarged for fuse. 8. Insert rag into front of cartridge. Pack rag against
powder package with stick. USE CAUTION! Method II- If standard shotgun
is used: 1. Follow steps 1 and 2, shotgun grenade launcher, Sec. IV, No.
2. 2. Follow procedure of method I, steps 1-5. 3. Follow steps 9, 10, 11,
shotgun grenade launcher, Sec. IV, No. 2, using 1/3 of total propellant
instead of 1/2. 4. Load cartridge in gun. CAUTION: Do not tilt muzzle downward.
2. Hold gun against ground at 45 degree angle and light fuse. Note: Steps
1 and 2, "How to Use" same for both standard and improvised shotguns. CAUTION:
Severe burns may result if bottle shatters when fired. If possible, obtain
a bottle identical to that being used as the fire bottle. Fill about 2/3
full of water and fire as above. If bottle shatters when fired instead
of being launched intact, use a different type of bottle. Grenade Launchers
Sec. IV, No. 5 A variety of grenade launchers can be fabricated from metal
pipes and fittings. Ranges up to 660 yards can be obtained depending on
length of tube, charge, number of grenades, and angle of firing.
Materials --------- Metal pipe,
threaded on one end and approx. 2 1/2 in. in diameter and 14 in. to 4 ft.
long, depending on range desired and number of grenades used. end cap to
fit pipe black powder, 15 to 50 grams, approx 1 1/4 to 4 1/4 tablespoons
(Sec. I, No. 3) safety fuse, fast burning improvised fuse (Sec. VI, No.
7) OR improvised electric bulb initiator (Sec. VI, No. 1) automobile light
bulb is needed grenades- 1 to 6 rag(s) about 30 in. x 30 in. drill string
Note: Examine pipe carefully to be sure there are no flaws or cracks.
Procedure --------- Method
I- If fuse is used: 1. Drill small hole through center of end cap. 2. Make
small knot near one end of fuse. Place black powder and knotted end of
fuse in paper and tie with string. 3. Thread fuse through hole in end cap
and place package in end cap. Screw end cap onto pipe, being careful that
black powder package is not caught between threads. 4. Roll rag wad so
that it is about 6 in. long and has approx. the same diameter as the pipe.
Push rolled rag into open end of pipe until it rests against black powder
package. 5. Hold grenade safety lever in place and carefully withdraw safety
pin. CAUTION: If grenade safety lever is released for any reason, the grenade
will explode after the usual delay (4-5 sec.). 6. Holding safety lever
in place, carefully push grenade into pipe, lever end first, until it rests
against rag wad. 7. The following table list carious types of grenade launchers
and their performance characteristics. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Desired range | No. of grenades | black powder | pipe length | firing angle
----------------|-------------------|--------------|-------------|-------------
250 m | 1 | 15 gm | 14" | 30 degrees 500 m | 1 | 50 gm | 48" | 10 degrees
600 m (A) | 1 | 50 gm | 48" | 30 degrees 200m | 6 (B) | 25 gm | 48" | 30
degrees ----------------|-------------------|--------------|-------------|-------------
(A): For this range, an additional delay is required, see Sec. VI, No.
11& 12. (B): For multiple launcher, load as shown: (bullshit. Like
this.) Note: Since performance of different black powder varies, fire several
test rounds to determine the exact amount of powder necessary to achieve
the desired range. Load in this order, from bottom: Black powder package,
rolled rag (30x30), grenade, stuffed rag (20x20), grenade, stuffed rag
(20x20), etc... How to Use ---------- 1. Bury at least 1/2 of the launcher
pipe in the ground at desired angle. Open end should face the expected
path of the enemy. Muzzle my be covered with cardboard and a thin layer
of dirt and/or leaves as camouflage. Be sure cardboard prevents dirt from
entering pipe. Note: The 14 in. launcher may be hand held against the ground
instead of being buried. 2. Light fuse when ready to fire. Method II- If
electrical igniter is used: Note: Be sure bulb is in good operating condition.
1. Prepare electric bulb initiator as described in Sec. VI, No.1. 2. Place
electric initiator and black powder charge in paper. Tie ends of paper
with string. 3. Follow above procedure, steps 3 to end of Procedure.
How to Use ---------- 1. Follow
above How to Use, Step 1. 2. Connect leads to firing circuit. Close circuit
when ready to fire. 60MM mortar projectile Launcher Sec. IV, No. 6 A device
to launch 60MM mortar rounds using a metal pipe 2 1/2 in. in diameter and
4 ft. long as the launching tube.
Materials --------- Mortar,
60MM projectile and charge increments metal pipe, 2 1/2 in. in diameter
and 4 ft. long, threaded on one end threaded cap to fit pipe bolt, 1/8
in. in diameter and at least 1 in. long. two nuts to fit bolt file drill
Procedure --------- 1. Drill
hole 1/8 in. in diameter through center of end cap. 2. Round off end of
bolt with file. 3. Place bolt through hole in end cap. Secure in place
with nuts. =============== +=+ ()::+:+::: <- must protrude 1/4 inch
on both sides +=+ ================ where: "=" is end cap "()" is bolt head
"+" is nut ":" is bolt 4. Screw end cap onto pipe tightly. Tube is now
ready for use.
How to Use ---------- 1. Bury
launching tube in ground at desired angle so that bottom of tube is at
least 2 ft. underground. Adjust the number of increments in rear finned
end of mortat projectile. See following table (shit) for launching angle
and number of increments used. 2. When ready to fire, withdraw safety wire
from mortar projectile. Drop projectile into launching tube, FINNED END
FIRST. (yes, several assholes in the ARMY have actually put one down head
first....BOOM! They ain't with us no more...) CAUTION: Be sure bore riding
pin is in place when mortar projectile is dropped into tube. A live mortar
round could explode in the tube if ithe fit is loose enough to permit the
bore riding pin to come out partway. Also keep all body arts behind open
end of tube when firing, as the mortar will fire once dropped down the
tube. Table desired range (yds.) | max height (yards) | angle of elevation
| charge (a) | ----------------|--------------------|--------------------|----------------|
150 | 25 | 40 | 0 | 300 | 50 | 40 | 1 | 700 | 150 | 40 | 2 | 1000 | 225
| 40 | 3 | 1500 | 300 | 40 | 4 | ----------------|--------------------|--------------------|----------------|
125 | 75 | 60 | 0 | 300 | 125 | 60 | 1 | 550 | 250 | 60 | 2 | 1000 | 375
| 60 | 3 | 1440 | 600 | 60 | 4 | ----------------|--------------------|--------------------|----------------|
75 | 100 | 80 | 0 | 150 | 200 | 80 | 1 | 300 | 350 | 80 | 2 | 400 | 600
| 80 | 3 | 550 | 750 | 80 | 4 | ----------------|--------------------|--------------------|----------------|
(A): charge- number of increments Silent grenade launcher Sec. IV, No.
7 A completely silent grenade launcher can be made from a 12 gauge shotgun
shell, pieces of pipe, pipe resucer, wooden dowels and a wine bottle cork.
This produces a launcher that can propel a fire bottle in excess of 100
yards and a grenade in excess of 300 yards. After firing, all of the expanding
gas in contained within the barrel. This principle of gas containment produces
a completely silent weapon.
Materials --------- 12 gauge
shotgun shells launcher parts: 3/4 in. nominal size water or gas pipe,
30 in. long and threaded on both ends 3/4 in. steel pipe coupler 3/4 in.
steel pipe plug sheet of wood 2 in. x 4 in. x 32 in. metal strap 1/4 in.
x 1/16 in. x 4 in. heavy twine (approx. 100 yards) 3 wood screws and screwdriver
flat head nail (8D) for firing and safety pins saw, file and drill with
assortment of bits shellac or lacquer rubber bands Gas containment parts:
3/4 in. to 1/2 in. steel pipe reducer 3/4 in. diameter, 1 1/2 in. long
hard wooden dowel 3/4 in. diameter wine bottle cork rubber disk 3/4 in.
in diameter and 1/4 in. thick (leather or neoprene can be used in place
of the rubber disk) vaseline Launching platfirm parts: hard wooden dowel
30 in. long x 1/2 in. in diameter tin can to fit over fire bottle or hand
grenade wood platfirm base approx. 3 in. x 3 in. x 2 in. to which tin can
and wooden dowel will be mounted nuts and bolts, or nails, at least 2 1/2
in. long
Procedure --------- 1. Carefully
inspect pipe and fittings: A. Make sure there are no cracks or other flaws.
B. Check inside diameter of pipe. A 12 gauge shotgun shell should fit into
the pipe but the brass rim of the shell should not. C. Outside diameter
of the pipe must be at least 1 in. D. Screw the 3/4 in. - 1/2 in. pipe
resucer onto the front end of the pipe. Sighting through the rear end of
the pipe, ensure that the reduced 1/2 in. center hole is centered with
respect to the side walls of the 3/4 in. pipe. Remove the pipe reducer
and set aside for later use. CAUTION: Do not use a pipe reducer that causes
an offset center hole when it is tightened down on the end of the pipe.
2. Cut stock from wood using a saw: | <- approx. 32 in. -> | | <-
13 1/2 in. -> | one inch thick at butt ______________________________ _
________________________| | <- 2 inches thick 4| | __| here; should
i| | _______------ taper to 2x2in n|_ |_____________________________-----------
3. Cut 3/8 in. deep "V" groove int he top of the stock. 4. Turn the 3/4
in. pipe coupling onto the rear of the pipe. 5. Coat pipe and "V" groove
of stock with shellac or lacquer and while still wet, place pipe in "V"
groove and wrap pipe and stock together using two heavy layers of twine.
Coat twine with shellac or lacquer after each layer. 6. Using a metal file,
file the threaded end of the pipe plug flat. This allows a firm seat between
the rear of the shotshell case and the end of the pipe plug. However, because
of tapered screw threads on the pipe and pipe plug, the pipe coupler my
prevent firm seating between the shotshell case and the pipe plug. If this
is the case, fill the space between the pipe plug and the shotshell case
with 1 in. steel washers with holes in the center of the firing pin to
pass through. 7. Drill a hole through the center of the pipe plug large
enough for a 8D nail to pass through. 8. Using the same size drill, drill
a hole through the rear side of the pipe plug, perpendicular to and intersecting
witht he central firing pin hole. This is going to be used as a safety
for the firing pin. 9. Push an 8D nail through the central firing pin hole
and cut off flat 1/32 in. past the end of the pipe plug or the end of the
last 1 in. steel washer. 10. Using a file, notch the firing pin nail where
the side hole intersects with the central firing pin hole and file the
end round. 11. Using a serparate 8D nail, push it through the side hole.
Note where it intersents the firing pin hole and file it flat, to half
its normal thickness, from that point until it passes through the other
side. 12. Insert the firing pin into the central firing pin hole, aligning
the slot in the firing pin with he safety hole in the side of the pipe
plug. 13. Insert the safety nail through the side hole so that it interlocks
with the central firing pin. Bend the protruding end of the safety nail
around the end pipe plug to ensure that the firing pin is locked into place.
14. Insert steel washers, if necessary, and screw end plug tightly into
pipe coupler. 15. Bend a 4 in. metal strap into an "L" shape and drill
a hole for the side pivot screw to pass through. Notch the metal strap
on the long side, 1/2 in. from the bend. | <- 1 1/2 in.->| _______________
|_____________ | /| | ____/ | | bend | | | | 1/16 in.->| |<- |_| |.5
in| |*| "*" = notch should go in 1/8 in. _____ __ | | |-- 1/2 in. > | --
| | | | | | | | | | | | | o | -- |_____| __|-- 1/4 in. |__| | 1/4 in. 16.
Position the metal strap on the stock sp that the top will hit the head
of the nail. Attach to the stock using a wood pivot screw. 17. Place a
screw on each side of the stock about 4 in. in front of the metal strap.
Pass rubber bands through the notch in the metal strap and attach to screw
on each side of the stock. 18. Two gas containment pistons should be made
in the following manner: A. Cut a 3/4 in. diameter wood dowel to a length
of 1 1/2 in. Round the forward edges of the dowel off with file. B. Attach
a 3/4 in. diameter, 1/4 in. thick rubber or leather washer to the rearend
of the wooden dowel with a thumb tack. If rubber or leather of the proper
thickness is not available, the washer can be built up to 1/4 in. thick
with successive layers of thin rubber or leather. C. Cut a 3/4 in. diameter
wine bottle cork to a length of 1 1/2 in. D. Set both pistons aside for
later use. 19. A launching platform should be made in the following manner:
A. Drill a 1/2 in. hole approx. 1 in. deep in the center of the wood block.
The 1/2 in. diameter, 30 in. long hard wooden dowel is to fir into this
hole. B. Drill two 1/4 in. holes on opposite sides of the wooden support
block. These holes should be drilled clear through the block for bolts
to pass through. C. Using the supporting block as a template, mark the
bolt holes on the bottom of a tin can which is large enought to hold either
a fire bottle or hand grenade, then drill the two holes in the bottom of
the can. Secure the can to the supporting block by placing 1/4 in. bolts
through the bottom of the can and the block, securing with nuts. D. Push
the 30 in. long, 1/2 in. diameter wooden dowel into the 1 in. deep hole
in the bottom of the supporting block. Secure in place by driving a nail
through the supporting block and into the center of the wooden dowel. 20.
Prepare a 12 gauge shotgun shell in the following manner: A. Remove crimp
from the shell with a pen knife. Pour shot from shell and remove the wads
and plastic liner if present. B. Empty the propellant onto a folded piece
of paper. Divide the propellant into thirds. Replace 2/3 of the propellant
back into the shell case. C. Replace the 12 gauge cardboard wads back into
the shell casing. If wads are not available, stuff tissue paper or cotton
into the shell case and pack tightly.
How to Use ---------- 1. To
load: A. Remoove the firing pin plug from the rear of the pipe coupler.
B. Insert the specially loaded 12 gauge shotgun into the rear end of the
pipe. C. Insert steel washers if necessary and screw the pipe plug back
into the rear pipe coupler until it seats against the base of the shell.
D. Cover the 3/4 in. wooden dowel (gas containment piston) with Vaseline
and insert in the forward end of the barrel. Using the launching platform
as a ramrod, push the piston down against the shotgun shell in the rear
of the launcher. E. Cover the 3/4 in. diameter wine bottle cork with Vaseline
and press down against the wooden piston. F. Secure the 3/4 in. to 1/2
in. pipe reducer tightly to the forward end of the pipe barrel. G. Insert
the 1/2 in. x 30 in. wooden dowel launching platform into the barrel through
the center hole of the pipe reducer and seat it against the cork secondary
gas seal. H. Isert fire bottle, hand grenade, or pipe bombs into the tin
can on the end of the launching platform. Note: If a fire bottle is used,
crumple paper and place in the bottom of the can. wrap more paper around
the fire bottle and insert into the can. Use enough paper so the bottle
will fit snugly. 2. To fire: A. Place stock of launcher against the ground
and position the launcher at various degrees of elevation, in relation
to ground level, so that variations of ranges can be achieved. B. Pull
firing strap back with thumb. When ready to fire, release strap. Chemical
Fire bottle Sec. V, No. 1 This incendiary is self igniting on target impact.
Materials Source ---------
------ Sulfuric acid motor vehicles- batteries materials processing, industrial
plants gasoline motor fuel potassium chlorate drug store sugar food store
glass bottle with stopper (1 qt. approx.) small bottle or jar with lid
rag or absorbent paper (paper towels, newpaper) string or rubber bands
Procedure --------- 1. Sulfuric
acid must be concentrated. If battery acid or other dilute acid is used,
concentrate it by boiling until dense white fumes are given off. Container
should be oven glass or enamel-ware. CAUTION: Sulfuric acid will burn skin
and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it away with a large quantity
of water. Fumes are also dangerous and should not be inhaled. 2. Remove
the acid from heat and allow to cool to room temperature. 3. Pour gasoline
into the large (1 qt.) bottle until it is approx. 2/3 full. 4. Add concentrated
sulfuric acid to gasoline slowly until the bottle is filled to within 1
to 2 in. from the top. Place the stopper in the mouth of the bottle. 5.
Wash the outside of the bottle thoroughly with clear water. CAUTION: If
this is NOT done, the bottle may be dangerous to handle during use. 6.
Wrap a clean cloth or several sheets of absorbent paper around the outside
of the bottle. Tie with string ot fasten with rubber bands. 7. Dissolve
1/2 cup of potassium chlorate and 1/2 cup of sugar in one cup of boiling
water. 8. Allow the solution to cool, pout into the small bottle and cap
slightly. CAUTION: Store this bottle separately from the other bottle.
How to Use ---------- 1. Shake
the small bottle to mix contents and pour onto the cloth or paper around
the large bottle. Bottle can be used wet or after solution has dried. However,
when dry, the sugar-Potassium nitrate mixture is very sensitive to spark
or flame and should be handled accordingly. 2. Throw ot launch the bottle.
When the bottle breaks against a hard surface (target) the acid in the
gasoline will react with the chlorate- sugar mixture annd then ignite the
gasoline. Igniter from book matches Sec. V, No. 2 This is a hot igniter
made from paper book matches for use with molotov cocktails and other incendiaries.
Materials --------- paper book
matches adhesive or friction tape
Procedure --------- 1. Remove
the staple(s) from match book and separate matches from cover. 2. Fold
and tape one row of matches. 3. Shape the cover into a tube with striking
surface on the inside and tape. Make sure the folded cover will fit tightly
around the taped match heads. Leave cover open at opposite end for insertion
of the matches. 4. Push the taped matches into the tube until the bottom
ends are exposed about 3.4 in. 5. Flatten and fold the open end of the
tube so that it laps over about 1 in,; tape in place.
Use with Molotov Cocktail -------------------------
Tap the "match end tab" of the igniter to the neck of the molotov cocktail.
Grasp the "cover end tab" and pull sharply or quickly to ignite.
General Use ----------- The
book match igniter can be used by itself to ignite flammable liquids, fuse
cords, and other similar items requiring hot ignition. CAUTION: Store matches
and completed igniters in moistureproof containers such as rubber or plastic
bags until ready for use. Damp or wet paper book matches will not ignite.
Mechanically Initiated fire bottle Sec. V, No. 3 The mechanically initiated
fire bottle is an incendiary device which ignites when thrown against a
hd surface.
Materials --------- glass jar
or short neck bottle with a leakproof lid or stopper tin can or similar
container just large enough to fit over the lid of the jar coil spring
(compression) approx. 1/2 the diameter of the can and 1 1/2 times as long
gasoline four (4) "blue tip" matches (I think they are called Ohio kitchen
matches) flat stick or piece of metal roughly 1/2 in. x 1/16 in. x 4 in.
wire or heavy twine adhesive tape
Procedure --------- 1. Draw
or scratch two lines around the can- one 3/4 in. and the other 1 1/4 in.
from the open end. 2. Cut 2 slots on opposite sides of the tin can at the
line farthest from the open end. Make slots large enough for the flat stick
or piece of metal to pass through. 3. Punch 2 small holes just below the
rim of the open end of the can. 4. Tape blue tip matches together in pairs.
The distance between the match heads should equal the inside diameter of
the can. Two pairs are sufficient. 5. Attach paired matches to second and
third coils of the spring, using thin wire. 6. Insert the end of the spring
opposite the matches into the tin can. 7. Compress the spring until the
end with the matches passes the slot in the can. Pass the flat stick or
piece of metal through slots in can to hold spring in place. This acts
as a safety device. 8. Puch many closely packed small holes between the
lines marked on the can to form a striking surface for the matches. Be
careful to not seriously deform the can. 9. Fill the jar with gasoline
and cap tightly. 10. Turn can over and place over the jar so that the safety
stick rests on the lid of the jar. 11. Pass wire or twine around the bottom
of the jar. Thread ends through the holes in can and bind tightly to jar.
12. Tape wire or cord to jar near the bottom.
How to Use ---------- 1. Carefully
withdraw flat safety stick. 2. Throw jar at hard surface. CAUTION: DO NOT
REMOVE SAFETY STICK UNTIL READY TO THROW FIRE BOTTLE. The safety stick,
when in place, prevents ignition of the fire bottle if it should accidently
be broken. Gelled flame Fuels Sec. V, No. 4 Gelled or paste type fuels
are often preferable to raw gasoline for use in incediary devices such
as fire bottles. This type fuel adheres more readily to the target and
produces greater heat concentration. Several methods are shown for gelling
gasoline using commonly avilable materials. The methods are divided into
the following catagories based on the major ingredient: 4.1 Lye systems
4.2 Lye-alcohol 4.3 Soap-alcohol systems 4.4 Egg white systems 4.5 Latex
systems 4.6 Wax systems 4.7 Animal blood systems I will type this one warning
ONE TIME only! CAUTION: Never at ANY time should you light up a cigarette
while mixing flame fuels! No Smoking! Go smokeless! Lye Systems Sec. V,
No. 4.1 Lye (also known as caustic soda or Sodium hydroxide) can be used
in combination with powdered rosin ot castor oil to gel gasoline for use
as a flame fuel which will adhere to target surfaces. Note: This fuel is
not suitable for use in the chemical (sulfuric acid) type of fire bottle
(Sec. V, No. 1). The acid will react with the lye and break down the gel.
Materials --------- Parts by
volume Ingredient How used Common source --------------- ---------- --------
------------- 60 gasoline motor fuel gas station 2 (flake) or lye drain
cleaner, food, drug store 1 (powder) making soap 15 rosin manufacturing
naval stores paint & varnish industry or castor oil medicine food and
drug stores
Procedure --------- 1. Pour
gasoline into jar, bottle or other container. (Do not use an aluminum container.
2. If rosin is in cake form, crush into small pieces. 3. Add rosin or castor
oil to the gasoline and stir for for about five (5) minutes to mix thoroughly.
4. In a second container (not aluminum) add lye to an equal volume of water
slowly while stirring. 5. Add lye solution to the gasoline mix and stir
until mixture thickens (about 1 minute). Note: The sample will eventually
thicken to a very firm paste. This can be thinned, if desired, by stirring
additional gasoline. Lye-Alcohol Systems Sec. V, No. 4.2 Lye (also known
as caustic soad or Sodium hydroxide) can be used in combination with alcohol
and any of several fats to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel.
Materials --------- Parts by
volume Ingredient How Used Common source --------------- ---------- --------
------------- 60 gasoline motor fuel gas station 2 (flake) or lye drain
cleaner food, drug store 1 (powder) making of soap 3 ethyl alcohol whiskey
medicine, liquor store Note: Methyl (wood) alcohol or isopropyl alcohol
can be used, but they produce softer gels. 14 tallow food, soap making
fat rendered by cooking the meat of animal Note: The following can be substituted
for the tallow: A. wool grease (lanolin) (very good)- fat extracted from
sheep wool. B. castor oil (good). C. Any fish oil. D. Butter or oleo margarine
E. Any vegetable oil (corn, cottonseed, peanut, linseed, etc.) It is necessary
when using substitutes E and D to double the given amount of fat and lye
for satisfactory bodying.
Procedure --------- 1. Pour
gasoline into bottle, jar or other container. (Do not use an aluminum container)
2. Add tallow or substitute to the gasoline and stir for about 1/2 min.
to dissolve fat. 3. Add alcohol to the gasoline mixture. 4. In a separate
container (Not aluminum) slowly add lye to an equal amount of water. Mixture
should be stirred constantly while adding lye. 5. Add lye solution to the
gasoline mixture and stir occasionally until thickened (about 1/2 hour).
Note: The mixture will eventually (1 to 2 days) thicken to a very firm
paste. This can be thinned, if desired, by stirring in additional gasoline.
Soap-Alcohol system Sec. V, No. 4.3 Common household soap can be used in
combination with alcohol to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel which
will adhere to taget surfaces. Materials --------- Parts by volume Ingredient
How used Common source --------------- ----------- -------- -------------
36 gasoline motor fuel gas station, cars 1 ethyl alcohol whiskey liquor,
drug store Note: Methyl alcohol or isopropyl alcohol can be substituted
for the whiskey. 20 (powder) or laundry soap washing food store 28 (flake)
clothes Note: Unless the word "soap" actually appears somewhere on the
container or wrapper, a washing compound is probably a detergent. These
cannot be used. Procedure --------- 1. If bar soap is used, carve into
thin flakes using a knife. 2. Pour alcohol and gasoline into a jar, bottle
or other containr and mix thoroughly. 3. Add soap powder or flakes to gasoline-alcohol
mix and stir occasionally until thickened (about 15 minutes). Egg systems
Sec. V, No. 4.4 The white of any bird egg can be used to gel gasoline for
use as a flame fuel which will adhere to target surface. Materials ---------
Parts by volume Ingredient How used Common source --------------- ----------
-------- ------------- 85 gasoline motor fuel gas station 14 egg whites
food food store, farm Any one of the following: 1 table salt food sea water
natural brine, food str. 3 ground coffee food coffee plant food store 3
dried tea leaves tea plant, food store 3 cocoa food cacao tree food store
2 sugar sweetening sugar cane, food store 1 saltpeter pyrotechnics drug
store (potassium explosives natural deposts nitrate) matches 1 epsom salts
medicine natural deposits mineral water kieserite industrial procs. drug,
food store 2 washing soda washing cleaner food store (sal soda) photography
drug store medicine photography store 1 1/2 baking soda baking food store
manufacture of drug store beverages, mineral water and medicines 1 1/2
aspirin medicine drug, food store
Procedure --------- 1. Separate
the egg white from yolk. This can be done by breaking the egg into a disk
and carefully removing the yolk with a spoon. Note: Do not get the yellow
egg yolk mixed into the egg white. If egg yolk gets into the egg white,
discard the egg. 2. Pour egg white into a jar, bottle, or other container
and add gasoline. 3. Add the salt or other additive to the mixture and
stir occasionally until a gel forms (about 5-10 minutes). Note: A thicker
gelled flame fuel can be obtained by putting the capped jar in hot (65
degree C) water for about 1/2 hour and then letting them cool to room temperature.
(Do not heat the gelled fuel containing coffee). Latex systems Sec. V,
No. 4.5 Any milky while plant fluid is a potential source of latex which
can be used to gel gasoline. Materials --------- Ingredient How used Common
source ---------- -------- ------------- gasoline motor fuel, solvent gas
station, motor vehicle latex, commercial paints, adhesives natural or from
tree or plant, rubber cement One of the following acids: acetic acid salad
dressing food stores (vinegar) developing film fermented apple cider photographic
supply sulfuric acid storage batteries motor vehicles (oil of vitriol)
materials processing industrial plants hydrochloric acid petroleum wells
hardware store (muriatic acid) pickling and metal industrial plants cleaning
industrial processes Note: If acids are not available, use acid salt (aluminum
sulfates and chlorides other than sodium or potassiu). The formic acid
from crushed red ants can also be used.
Procedure --------- 1. With
commercial rubber latex: A. Place 7 parts by volume of latex and 92 parts
by volume of gasoline in bottle. Cap bottle and shake to mix well. B. Add
1 part by volume vinegar (or other acid) and shake until gel forms. 2.
With natural latex: A. Natural latex should form lumps as it comes from
the plant. If lumps do not form, add a small amount of acid to the latex.
B. Strain off the latex lumps and allow to dry in air. C. Place 20 parts
by volume of latex in bottle and add 80 parts by volume of gasoline. Cover
bottles and allow to stand until a swollen gel mass is obtained (2 to 3
days). Wax systems Sec. V, No. 4.6 Any of several common waxes can be used
to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel which will adhere to target surfaces.
Materials --------- Parts by
volume Ingredient How Used Common source --------------- ---------- --------
------------- 80 gasoline motor fuel, gas station, vehicle solvent Any
one of the following: 20 Ozocerite leather polish natural deposits mineral
wax sealing wax general stores fossil wax candles department store ceresin
wax crayons waxed paper textile sizing beeswax furniture and honeycomb
of bee floor waxes general store artificial fruit department store lithographing
wax paper textile finish candles bayberry wax candles natural form myrtle
wax soaps myrica berries leather polish general store medicine department
store
Procedure --------- 1. Obtaining
wax from Natural sources: Plants and berries are potential sources of natural
waxes. Place the plants and/or berries in boiling water. The natural waxes
will melt. Let the water cool. The natural waxes will form a solid layer
on the water surface. Skim off the solid wax and let dry. With natural
waxes which has suspended matter when melted, screen the wax through a
cloth. 2. Melt the wax and pour into jar or bottle which has been placed
in a hot water bath. 3. Add gasoline to the bottle. 4. When wax has completely
dissolved in the gasoline, allow the water bath to cool slowly to room
temp. Note: If a gel does not form, add additional wax, (up to 40 % by
volume) and repeat the above steps. if no gel forms with 40 % wax,, make
a lye solution by dissolving a small amount of lye (sodium hydroxide) in
a equal amount of water. Add this solution (1/2% by volume) to the gasoline
wax mix and shake bottle until get forms. Animal blood systems Sec. V,
No. 4.7 Animal blood can be used to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel
which will adhere to target surfaces. Materials --------- Parts by volume
Ingredient How used Common source --------------- ---------- -------- -------------
68 gasoline motor fuel gas station, cars 30 animal blood food, medicine
slaughter house serum natural habitat Any one of the following: 2 salt
food, sea water industrial natural brine processes food store ground coffee
food coffee plant beverage food store dried tea leaves food store sugar
sweetening sugar cane food store lime mortar from calcium carbonate plaster
hardware store medicine drug store ceramics garden supply steel making
baking soda baking food store beverages drug store industrail prcs. epsom
salts medicine drug store mineral water natural deposits food store
Procedure --------- 1. Preparation
of animal blood serum: A. Slit animal's jugular vein. Hang upside down
to drain. B. Place coagulated (lumpy) blood in a cloth or a screen and
catch the red fluid (serum) that drains through. C. Store in cool place
if possible. CAUTION: DO not get aged blood serum into an open cut. This
can cause infections. 2. Pour blood serum into jar, bottle, or other container
and add gasoline. 3. Add the salt (or other additive) to the mixture and
stir until a gel forms. X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=