Opening: Greetings! Welcome to my first major production. What the hell is this guy babbling about "black books"? Well, in the 60's a special forces program was developed at the Frankford arsenal to develop and test improvised explosives. What you see here are the results of these tests. Typed directly from Army TM 31-210 and Desert Publication's Black Book Vol. III.
Disclaimer: I take absolutely no responsibility for the use of this material, whether it be direct or indirect. What I have done here is simply provide this information for one purpose only (har har) and that is for informational purposes only. All information here, however, should be taken as seriously as the bible. You can very easily fuck up and get killed. Please be very, very careful (shit, i sound like your mother) when dealing with any of the items presented here. Note especially the section on improvised pistols. thanx. and by god... HAVE FUN!
What would you guys like next? (note: the first (good) part of the poor mans james bond is in the works.. I am sick of seeing all of his good book trashed into many files, so I will present it (like this) in volume form..) Poor mans James bond (first section only... its all that is good) Anarchist cookbook (oohhhh nooo...) Principles of Improvised Explosive Devices (a bunch of switches and initiators) FM 5-20 Camouflage Complete guide to lock picking Get Even I and II TM 31-200-1 Unconventional warfare- both of these are about sabotage mainly TM 31-201-1 Unconventional warfare references Grandads Book of Chemistry (are you kidding?) FM 3-50-1 Deliberate Smoke Operations (just for that HS lunchroom...) FM 23-30 Grenades and Pyrotechnics ST 21-75-3 Dismounted Patroling FM 5-15 Field Fortification U.S. Navy Seal Manual- underwater demolitions, etc.. good book. Improvised Munition Systems Special Forces Handbook Special Forces Operational Techniques Anarchist HANDBOOK Weaponeer (another from 'ole Kurt Saxon) Imp. Weapons of Modern Ninja (supposed to be good, its on order..) IMPROVISED MUNITIONS Black Books Vols. I, II, and III "Nothing added, nothing taken away" Typed by The Mad Cracker
Plastic Explosive
Filler Sec I, No. I
A plastic explosive filler can be made
from potassium chlorate and petroleum jelly. This explosive can be detonated
with a commercial #8 or any military blasting cap.
Materials Sources --------- -------
Potassium chlorate Medicine, match heads (white) Petroleum jelly (vaseline)
Medicine, Lubricant Round stick Wide bowl or other container for mixing
Procedure ---------
1. Spread potassium chlorate crystals
thinly on a hard surface. Roll the round stick over crystals to crush into
a very fine powder or wheat flower.
2. Place 9 parts powdered potassium
chlorate and 1 part petroleum jelly in a wide bowl or similar container.
Mix ingredients with hands until a uniform paste is obtained. Note: Store
in a waterproof container until ready to use.
Potassium Nitrate
Sec. I, No. 2
Potassium nitrate can be extracted
from many natural sources and can be used to make nitric acid, black powder
and many pyrotechnics. The yield ranges from .1 to 10% by weight, depending
on the fertility of the soil.
Materials Sources --------- -------
Nitrate bearing earth or other material, Soil containing old decayed about
3.5- gallons (13.5 liters) vegetable or animal matter Old cellars/farm
floors, earth from old burial grounds, decayed stone or mortar building
foundations. Fine wood ashes, about .5 cup (1/8 liter) totally burned whitish
wood ash powder, totally black paper Bucket, about 5 gallons (19 l) in
volume 2 pieces finely woven cloth, each slightly bigger than the bottom
of the bucket shallow pan or dish, at least as large as the bottom of bucket
Shallow heat resistant container (ceramic, metal, etc.) Water- 1.75 gallons
(6.75 l) Awl, knife, or screwdriver, or other hole punching tool alcohol
- 1 gallon (4 l) can be whiskey, rubbing, etc. heat source paper tape Note:
Only the ratios of the amounts of ingredients are important. Thus, for
twice as much, double all quantities.
Procedure ---------
1. Punch holes in bottom of bucket.
Spread one piece of cloth over holes inside bucket.
2. Place wood ashes on cloth and spread
to make a layer about the thickness of the cloth. Place second piece of
cloth on top of ashes.
3. Place dirt in bucket.
4. Place bucket over shallow container.
Bucket may be supported on sticks if necessary.
5. Boil water and pour it over earth
in bucket a little at a time. Allow water to run through holes in bucket
into shallow container. Be sure water goes through all the earth. Allow
drained liquid to cool and settle for 1 to 2 hours. Note: Do not pour all
the water at once, as this may cause stoppage.
6. Carefully drain off liquid into
heat resistant container. Discard any sludge remaining in bottom of the
shallow container.
7. Boil mixture over hot fire for at
least 2 hours. Small grains of salt will begin to appear in the solution.
Scoop these out as they form, using any type of improvised strainer (paper,
etc)
8. When liquid has boilded down to
approx. half its original volume, remove from fire and let sit. After half
an hour, add an equal volume of alcohol. When mixture is poured through
paper, small white crystals will collect on top of it.
9. To purify the potassium nitrate,
re-dissolve the dry crystals in the smallest possible amount of boiled
water. Remove any salt crystals that appear (step 7); pour through an improvised
filter made of several pieces of paper and evaporate of gently heat the
concentrated solution to dryness.
10. Spread crystals on plat surface
and allow to dry. The crystals are now ready to use.
Improvised Black
Powder Sec. I, No. 3
Black powder can be prepared in a simple,
safe manner. It may be used as blasting or gun powder. Materials Sources
--------- ------- Potassium nitrate, granulated 3 cups (.75 l) see Sec.
I, No. 2) Wood charcoal, powdered, 2 cups (.5 l) Sulfur, powdered, .5 cup
(1/8 l) Alcohol, 5 pints (2.5 l) whiskey, rubbing, etc. water 3 cups, (.75
l) heat source 2 buckets- each 2 gallon (7.5 l) cap., one of which must
be heat resistant (metal, ceramic) Flat window screen 1 foot square large
wooden stick cloth, 2 ft. sq. Procedure ---------
1. Place alcohol in one of the buckets.
2. Place potassium nitrate, charcoal,
and sulfur in the heat resistant bucket. Add 1 cups water and mix thoroughly
with wooden stick until all ingredients are dissolved.
3. Add remaining water (2 cups) to
mixture. Place bucket on heat source and stir until small bubbles begin
to form. Note: Do NOT boil mixture. Be sure all mixture stays wet. If any
is dry, as on sides of pan, it maignite.
4. Remove bucket from heat and pour
mixture into alcohol while stirring vigorously.
5. Let alcohol mixture stand about
5 minutes. Strain mixture through cloth to obtain black powder. Discard
liquid. Wrap cloth around black powder and squeeze to remove all excess
liquid.
6. Place screening over dry bucket.
Place workable amount of damp powder on screen and granulate by rubbing
solid through screen. Note: If granulated particles appear to stick together
and change shape, recombine entire batch of powder and repeat steps 5 and
6.
7. Spread granulated powder on flat
dry surface so that layer about .5" (1.25 cm) is formed. Allow to dry.
Use radiator, or direct sunlight. This should be dried as soon as possible,
preferably in one hour. The longer the drying period, the less effective
the black powder. Note: Remove from here as soon as granules are dry. Black
powder is now ready for use.
Nitric Acid Sec.
I, No. 4
Nitric acid is used in the preparation
of many explosives, incendiary mixtures and acid delay timers. It may be
prepared by distilling a mixture of potassium nitrate and concentrated
sulfuric acid. Materials Sources --------- ------- Potassium nitrate (2
parts by volume) Drug store, improvised, (Sec. I No. 2) Concentrated sulfuric
acid (1 part by vol) motor vehicle batteries, industrial plants 2 bottles
or ceramic jugs (narrow necks preferable) pot or frying pan Heat source
Tape (paper, electrical, not cellophane) Paper or rags Note: If sulfuric
acid is obtained from motor vehicles, it must be concentrated by boiling
until white fumes appear. Do NOT inhale fumes. Also, the amount of nitric
acid produced is the same as the amount of potassium nitrate used, so for
2 tablespoons of nitric acid, use 2 tablespoons potassium nitrate and 1
tablespoon sulfuric acid.
Procedure ---------
1. Place dry potassium nitrate in bottle
or jug. Add sulfuric acid. Do not fill more than 1/4 full Mix until a paste
is formed. Note: Treat sulfuric acid like any other acid, wash affected
skin with water, and dont inhale the fucking fumes.
2. Wrap paper or rags around necks
of 2 bottles. Securly tape necks of bottles together. Be sure bottles are
flush against each other and that there are no air spaces.
3. Support bottles on rocks or cans
so that empty bottle is slightly lower than bottle sontaining paste so
that nitric acid is formed in receiving bottle will not run into other
bottle.
4. Build fire in pot or frying pan.
5. Gently heat bottle containing mixture
by moving fire in and out. As red fumes begin to appear periodically pour
cold water over empty receiving bottle. Nitric acid will begin to form
in the receiving bottle. Note: Do not overheat or wet bottle containing
mixture or it may shatter. As an added protection, place bottle to be hated
in a heat resistant container filled with sand or gravel. Hear this outer
container to produce nitric acid.
6. Continue the above process until
no more red fumes are formed. If the nitric acid formed in the receiving
bottle is not clear (cloudy) pour it into cleaned bottle and repeat steps
2-6. Note: Do not inhale fumes, and nitric acid should be stored in a sealed
glass or ceramic container.
Initiator for
dust explosions Sec I, No. 5
An initiator which will initiate common
material to produce dust explosions can be rapidly and easily constructed.
This type of charge is ideal for the destruction of enclosed areas such
as rooms or buildings.
Materials Sources --------- -------
a flat can, 3 in. (8 cm) in diameter and 1-1.5 in. (3-3.75 cm) in height.
A 6.5 oz. Tuna can serves the purpose quite well blasting cap explosive
aluminum (may be wire, cust sheet, flat can, or powder) large nail, 4 in.
(10 cm) long wooden rod, .25 in. (6 mm) in diameter flour, gasoline, and
powder or chipped aluminum Note: Plastic explosives (comp. C4, etc.) produce
larger explosions that cast explosives (comp. B, etc).
Procedure ---------
1. Using the nail, press a hole through
the side of the Tuna can 3/8 to 1/2 in. (1-1.5 cm) from the bottom. Using
a rotating a lever action, enlarge the hole until it will accomodate the
blasting cap.
2. Place the wodden rod in the hole
and position the end of the rod at the center of the can.
3. Press explosive into the can, being
sure to surround the rod, until it is 3/4 in. (2 cm) from top of the can.
Carefully remove the wooden rod.
4. Place the aliminum metal on top
of the explosive.
5. Just before use, insert the blasting
cap into the cavity made by the rod. The initiator is now ready for use.
Note: If it is desired to carry the initiator some distance, cardboard
may be pressed on top of the aluminum to insure against loss of material.
How to Use ---------- This particular
unit works quite well to initiate charges of five pounds of flour, 1/2
gallon (1 2/3 l) of gasoline or two pounds of flake painters aluminum.
The solid materials may merely be contained in sacks or cardboard cartons.
The gasoline may be placed in plastic coated paper milk cartons, plastic
or glass bottles. The charges are placed directly on top of the initiator
and the blasting cap is actuated electrically or by fuse depending on the
type of cap used. This will destroy a 2,000 cubic feet enclosure (building
10x20x10 feet) Note: For larger enclosures, use proportionally larger initiators
ad charges. _______________________ | | | flour, gas, etc. | |_______________________|
|_______| <- aluminum flake top layer | | | _-_-_| <- explosive here
(surrounding cap) |____^__|\\ ^ \\ cap \\ <- wires to cap
Fertilizer Explosive
Sec. I, No. 6
An explosive munition can be made from
fertilizer grade ammonium nitrate and either fuel oil or a mixture of equal
parts of motor oil and gasoline. When properly prepared, this explosive
can be detonated with a blasting cap.
Materials Sources --------- -------
Ammonium nitrate (not less than 32% nitrogen) farm, feed stores Fuel oil
or gasoline and motor oil (1:1) cars, trucks Two flat boards, One which
can be comfortably held in the hand, i.e., 2"x4", and 36"x36" Bucket or
other container for mixing items Iron or steel pipe or bottle, tin can
or heavy walled cardboard tube blasting cap wooden rod, 1/4" in. diameter
spoon or similar measuring container
Procedure ---------
1. Spread a hadful of the ammonium
nitrate (an) on the large flat board and rub vigorously with the other
board until the large particles are crushed into a very fine powder that
looks like flour (approx. 10 min. per handful) Note: Continue with step
2 as soon as possible, since the powder may take moisture from the air
and become spoiled.
2. Mix on measure (cup, tablespoon,
etc) of fuel oil with 16 measures of the finely ground AN in a dry bucket
or other suitable container and stir with the wooden rod. If fuel oil is
not available, use one half measure of motor oil. Store in a waterproof
container until ready to use.
3. Spoon this mixture into an iron
or steel pipe which has and end cap threaded on one end. If a pipe is not
available, you may use a dry tin can, a glass jar or a heavy-walled cardboard
tube. Note: Take care not to tamp or shake the mixture in the pipe. If
mixture becomes tightly packed, one cap will not be sufficient to initiate
the explosive.
4. Insert blasting cap just beneath
the surface of the explosive mix. Note: Confining the open end of the container
will add to the effectiveness of the explosive.
Carbon Tet Explosive
Sec. I, No. 7
A moist explosive can be made from
fine aluminum powder combined with carbon tetrachloride or tetrachloroethylene.
This explosive can be detonated with a blasting cap.
Materials Sources --------- -------
Fine aluminum bronzing powder paint and artists supplies Carbon tetrachloride
Pharmacy, or fire extingusher or liquid tetrachloroethylene dry cleaners
stirring rod (wood) Mixing container Measuring container storage container
with lid blasting cap pipe, can or jar Procedure ---------
1. Measure out two parts aluminum powder
to one part carbon tetrachloride or tetrachloroethylene liquid into the
mixing container, adding liquid to powder while stirring with the wooden
rod.
2. Stir until the mixture becomes the
consistency of honey syrup. Note: Fumes from the liquid are dangerous and
should not be inhaled.
3. Store explosive in a jar or similar
waterproof container until ready to use. The liquid in the mixture evaporates
quickly when not confined. Note: Liquid will detonate in this manner for
a period of 72 hours.
How to Use ----------
1. Pour this mixture into an iron or
steel pipe which has an end cap threaded on one end. If a pipe is not available,
you may use a dry tin can or a glass jar.
2. Insert blasting cap just beneath
the surface of the explosive mix. Note: Confining the open end of the explosive
will add to the effectiveness of the explosive.
Fertilizer AN-AL
Explosive Sec. I, No. 8
A dry explosive mixture can be made
from ammonium nitrate fertilizer combined with fine aluminum powder. This
explosive can be detonated with a blasting cap.
Materials Sources --------- -------
Ammonium Nitrate fertilizer (not less than Farm and feed stores 32% nitrogen)
fine aluminum bronzing powder paint or artists supply Measuring container
Mixing container two flat boards (one should be comfortably held in the
had and one very large, i.e., 2"x4" and 36"x36") Storage container Blasting
cap Wooden rod- .25 in. in diameter pipe, can or jar Procedure ---------
1. Method I- low velocity explosive
A. Use measuring container to measure
four parts fertilizer to one part aluminum powder and pour into the mixing
container. (ex. 4 cups fertilizer to 1 cup aluminum powder)
B. Mix ingredients with the wooden
rod 2.
Method II- high velocity explosive
A. Spread a handful at a time of AN
on the large flat board and rub vigorously with the other board until the
large particles are crushed into a very fine powder that looks like flour.
(approx. 10 min. per handful) Note: Proceed with step B below as soon as
possible since the powder may take moisture from the air and become spoiled.
B. Follow steps A and B of Method I.
3. Store the explosive mixture in a waterproof container, such as a flass
jar, steel pipe, etc., until ready to use.
How to Use ---------- Follow steps
1 and 2 of "How to Use" in section I, No. 7.
Red or White powder
propellant Sec. I, No. 9
Red or White powder propellant may
be prepared in a simple, safe manner. The formulation described below will
result in approx. 2.5 lbs. of powder. This is a small arms propellant and
should only be used in weapons with .5 in. inside diameter or less, such
as the match gun, or the 7.62 carbine, but not pistols.
Materials Sources --------- -------
Heat source 2 gallon metal bucket Measuring cup (8 oz) Wooden spoon or
rubber spatula metal sheet or aluminum foil (at least 18 sq. in.) flat
window screen potassium nitrate (granulated)- 2.33 cups white sugar (granulated)-
2 cups powdered ferric oxide (rust)- 1/8 cup clear water- 3.5 cups
Procedure ---------
1. Place the sugar, potassium nitrate
(pn), and water in the bucket. Heat with a low flame, stirring occasionally
until the sugar and PN dissolve.
2. If available, add the ferric oxide
(rust) to the solution. Increase the flame under the mixture until it boils
gently. Note: The mixture will retain the rust coloration.
3. Stro and scrape the bucket sides
occasionally until the mixture is reduced to one quarter its original volume,
then stir continuously.
4. As the water evaporates, the mixture
will become thicker until it reaches the consistency of cooked breakfast
cereal (yum!) or homemade fudge. At this stage of thickness, remove the
bucket from the hear source and spread the mass on the metal sheet.
5. While the material cools, score
it with the spoon or spatula in crisscrossedfurrows about 1 inch apart.
6. Allow the material to air dry, preferably
in the sun. As it dries, rescore it occasionally (about every 20 minutes)
to aid drying.
7. When the material has dried to a
point to where it is moist and soft but not sticky to the touch, place
a small spoonful on the screen. Rub the aterial back and forth against
the screen mesh with a spoon or other flat object until the material is
granulated into small worm-like particles.
8. After granulation, return the material
to the sun to dry completely.
Nitric Acid/nitrobenzene
("Hellhoffite") explosive Sec. I, No. 10
An explosive munition can be made from
mononitrobenzene and nitric acid. It is a simple explosive to prepare.
Just pour the nitrobenzene into the acid and stir.
Materials Sources --------- -------
Nitric acid Field grade or 90% concentrated (specific gravity of 1.48)
Mononitrobenzene (nitrobenzene) drug store (oil of mirbane) or chemical
supply house Acid resistant measuring containers Glass, clay, etc. Acid
resistant stirring rod (glass, etc) Blasting cap Wax steel pipe, end cap,
tape bottle or jar Note: Prepare this mixture just before use.
Procedure ---------
1. Add 1 volume (cup, quart, etc) of
mononitrobenzene to two volumes nitric acid in a bottle or jar.
2. Mix ingredients well by stirring
with acid resistant rod. Note: Nitric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing.
If any is spilled, wash well with water. Don't inhale the fumes!
How to Use ----------
1. Wax blasting cap, pipe and end cap.
2. Thread end cap onto pipe.
3. Pour mixture into pipe.
4. Insert and tape blasting cap just
beneath surface of mixture. Note: Confining the open end will increase
effectiveness of the weapon.
Optimized Process
for Cellulose/Acid Exposive Sec. I, No. 11
An acid type explosive can be made
from nitric acid and white paper or cotton cloth. This explosive can be
detonated with a commercial #8 cap or any military blasting cap.
Materials Sources --------- -------
Nitric acid Industrial metal processors, 90% concentrated (1.48 grvty.)
Field grade, (sec. I, No. 4) white unprinted, unsized paper paper towels,
napkins clean white cotton cloth clothing, sheets, better kmarts Acid resistant
container wax coated pipe or can, ceramic pipe, glass jar, etc. Aluminum
foil or acid resistant material food stores protective gloves blasting
cap wax Procedure ---------
1. Put on gloves.
2. Spread out a layer of paper or cloth
on aluminum foil and sprinkle with nitric acid until thoroughly soaked.
If aluminum foil is unavailable, use an acid resistant material (glass,
ceramic, etc) Note: Use same warning again for handling acid.
3. Place another layer of paper or
cloth on top of the acid-soaked sheet and repeat step 2 above. Repeat as
often as necessary.
4. Roll up the aluminum foil containing
the acid-soaked sheets and insert the roll into the acid resistant container.
Note: If glass or ceramic tray is used, pick up with two wooden sticks
and load into container.
5. Wax blasting cap.
6. Insert the blasting cap in the center
of the rolled sheets. Allow 5 min. before detonating the explosive. Methyl
Nitrate Dynamite Sec. I, No. 12 A moist explosive mixture can be made from
sulfuric acid, nitric acid and methyl alcohol. This explosive can be detonated
with a blasting cap.
Materials Source --------- ------ Sulfuric
Acid Clear battery acid boiled until white fumes appear Nitric Acid Field
grade, (sec. I, No. 4), sp. gravity of 1.48 Methyl alcohol methanol, wood
alcohol, non- permanant antifreeze eyedropper or styring with glass tube
large diameter glass (2 qt.) jar Narrow glass jars (1 qt.) Absorbent (fine
sawdust, shredded paper, shredded cloth) cup pan (3-5 gallon) teaspoon
wooden stick steel pipe with end cap blasting cap water tray
Procedure ---------
1. Add 24 teaspoons of sulfuric acid
to 16.5 teaspoons of nitric acid in the 2 qt. jar.
2. Place the jar in the pan (3-5 gallon)
filled with cold water or in a stream and allow to cool.
3. Rapidly swirl the jar to create
a whirlpool in the liquid (without splashing) while keeping the bottom
portion of the jar in the water.
4. While continually swirling, add
to mixture, .5 teaspoon at a time, 13.5 teaspoons of methyl alcohol, allowing
the mixture to cool at least one minute between additions. DANGER! PELIGRO!-
If there is a sudden increase in the amount of fumes produced of if the
solution turns much darker or begins to froth, dump the solution in the
water within 10 seconds! This will help lengthen your life, and prevent
an accident.
5. After the final addition of methyl
alcohol, swirl for another 35-40 seconds.
6. Carefully pour the solution into
one of the narrow glass jars. Allow jar to stand in water for approx. 5
minutes until two layers separate.
7. With an eyedropper or styringe,
remove top layer and CAREFULLY put into another narrow glass jar. This
liquid is the explosve. Note: Thought I should tell you, this is shock
sensitive. (very)
8. Add an equal quantity of water to
the explosive and swirl. Allow mixture to separate again as in step 6.
The explosive is now the bottom layer.
9. Carefully remove the top layer with
the eyedropper or styringe and discard.
10. Place one firmly packed cup of
absorbent in the tray.
11. While stirring with the wooden
stick, slowly add explosive until the mass is very damp but not wet enough
to drip. Explosive is ready to use. Note: If it gets too wet, add more
absorbent. If storage is required, store in a sealed container to prevent
evaporation. Do not allow this to touch the skin. If it does, flush with
large quantities of water. Keep grit, dirt, and sand out of the mix.
How to Use ----------
1. Spoon this mixture into an iron
or steel pipe which has an end cap threaded on one end. If a pipe is not
available, you may use a dry tin can or a glass jar.
2. Insert blasting cap just beneath
the surfacr of the explosive mix. Note: Confining the other end will add
to the effectivenessof the explosive.
Urea nitrate explosive
Sec I, No. 13
Urea nitrate can be used as an explosive
munition. It is easy to prepare from nitric acid and urine. It can be detonated
with a blasting cap.
Materials Source --------- ------ Nitric
acid, (90%, 1.48 sp. gravity) Field grade (sec. I, No. 4) Urine Animals,
yes, humans too 2 one gallon heat and acid resistant containers (pyrex,
ceramic) Filtering material paper towel, fine cotton Aluminum powder (optional)
paint stores heat source measuring containers (cup and spoon) water tape
blasting cap steel pipe and cap Note: Prepare mixture just before use.
Procedure ---------
1. Boil a large quantity of urine (10
cups) to approx. 1/10 its volume (1 cup) in one of the containers over
the heat source.
2. Filter the urine into the other
container through the filtering material to remove impurities. Use tape
to secure filter onto jar.
3. Slowly add 1/3 cup of nitric acid
to the filtered urine, let stand for 1 hour.
4. Filter mixture as in step 2. Urea
nitrate crystals will collect on the paper.
5. Wash the urea nitrate by pouring
water over it.
6. Remove urea nitrate crystals from
the filtering and allow to dry thoroughly (approx. 16 hours) Note: Drying
time can be reduced to two hours if a hot (not boiling) water bath is used.
See step 5 of Sec I, No. 15.
How to Use ----------
1. Spoon urea nitrate crystals into
an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap screwed on one end.
2. Insert blasting cap just beneath
the surface of the urea nitrate crystals. Note: This explosive can be made
more effective by mixing with aluminum powder (from paint stores) in the
ratio of 4:1. One cup aluminum powder to four cups urea nitrate. Capping
the other end will add to the effectiveness of the explosive.
Preparation of
Copper Sulfate (Pentahydrate) Sec. I, No. 14
Copper sulfate is a required material
for the preparation of TACC. See section I, No. 16)
Materials Sources --------- -------
Pieces of copper or copper wire circuit boards, electronic stores Dilute
sulfuric acid (battery acid) Potassium nitrate (Sec. I, No. 2) or Nitric
Acid, (90%, 1.48 gr.)(Sec. I, No. 4) Alcohol water two 1 pint jars or glasses,
heat resistant paper towels pan wooden stick or rod improvised scale cup
container heat source teaspoon
Procedure ---------
1. Place 10 grams of copper pieces
into one of the pint jars. Add 1 cup (240 ml) of dilute sulfuric acid to
the copper.
2. Add 12 grams of potassium nitrate
or 1.5 teaspoons of nitric acid to the mixture. Note: Nitric Acid gives
a product of greater purity.
3. Heat the mixture in a pan of simmering
hot water hath until the bubbling has ceased (approx. 2 hours). The mixture
will turn to a blue color.
4. Pour the hot blue solution, but
not the copper, into the other pint jar. Allow solution to cool at room
temperature. Discard the unreacted copper pieces in the first jar.
5. Carefully pour away the liquid from
the crystals. Crush crystals into a powder with a wooden rod or stick.
6. Add .5 cup (120 ml) of alcohol to
the powder while stirring.
7. Filter the solution through a paper
towel into a container to collect the crystals. Wash the crystals left
on the paper towel three times, using .5 cup (120 ml) portions of alcohol
each time.
8. Air dry the copper sulfate crystals
for 2 hours. Note: Drying time can be reduced to .5 hour by use of hot,
not boiling, water bath (see step 3). Reclamation of RDX from C4 Sec. I,
No. 15 Rdx can be obtained from C4 explosive with the sue of gasoline.
It can be used as a booster explosive for detonators (Sec. VI, No. 13)
or as a high explosive charge.
Materials Sources --------- -------
Gasoline C4 plastique 2 pint glass jars, wide mouth water --------| | ceramic
or glass dish | | pan | optional, it may be air | dried heat source | |
teaspoon | | cup | | tape --------|
Procedure ---------
1. Place 1.5 teaspoons (15 grams) of
C4 in one of the pint jars. Add one cup (240 ml) of gasoline. Note: These
quantities can be increased to obtain more RDX. For example, use 2 gallons
of gasoline per 1 cup of C4.
2. Knead and stir the C4 with the rod
until the C4 has broken down into small particles. Allow mixture to stand
for .5 hour.
3. Stir the mixture again until a fine
white powder remains on the bottom of the jar.
4. Filter the mixture through a paper
towel into the other glass jar. Wash the particles collected on the paper
twoel with .5 cup (120 ml) of gasoline. Discard the waste liquid.
5. Place the RDX particles in a glass
or ceramic disk. Set the dish in a pan of hot water, not boiling, and dry
for a period of 1 hour. Note: RDX can be air dried for 2 to 3 hours.
TACC (Tetramminecopper
(II) Chlorate Sec. I, No. 16
TACC is a primary explosive that can
be made from sodium chlorate, copper sulfate and ammonia. This eplosive
is to be used with a booster explosive such as picric acid (Sec. I, No.
21) or RDX (Sec. I, No. 15) in the fabrication of detonators (Sec. VI,
No. 13).
Materials Sources --------- -------
Sodium Chlorate Sec. I, No. 23, medicine Copper sulfate Weed killer, hardware
store, Sec. I, No. 14 Ammonia hydroxide household ammonia, smelling salts,
water purifier alcohol, 95% wax, clay, pitch, etc. water bottle, narrow
mouth (wine or coke) bottles, wide mouth (mason jars) tubing (copper, steel)
to fit around mouth bottle teaspoon improvised scale Sec, VII, No. 8 heat
source paper towel pan tape cup
Procedure ---------
1. Measure 1/3 teaspoon (2.5 grams)
of sodium chlorate into a wide mouth bottle. Add 10 teaspoons alcohol.
2. Place the wide mouth bottle in a
pan of hot water. Add 1 teaspoon (4 g) of copper sulfate to the mixture.
Heat for a period of 30 minutes just under the boiling point and stir occasionally.
Note: Keep away from flame. Keep volume constant by adding additional alcohol
approx. every 10 minutes.
3. Remove solution from pan and allow
to cool. Color of solution will change from a blue to a light green. Filter
solution through a paper towel into another wide mouth bottle. Store until
ready for step 6.
4. Add 1 cup (250 Ml) of ammonia to
the narrow mouth bottle.
5. Place tubing into neck of bottle
so that it extends about 1.5 in (4 cm) inside bottle. Seal tubing to bottle
with wax, clay, pitch, etc.
6. Place free end of tubing into the
chlorate-alcohol-sulfate solution (step 3). Heat bottle containing ammonia
in a pan of hot, but not boiling water, for approx. 10 minutes.
7. Bubble ammonia gas through the chlorate-alcohol-sulfate
solution approx. 10 minutes, until the color changes from light gree to
dark blue. COntinue bubbling for another 10 minutes. Note: Mixture is now
primary explosive, keep from flame.
8. Remove the solution from the pan
and reduce the volume to about 1/3 of its original volume by evaporating
in the open air or ina stream of air. Note: Pour container into a flat
container for faster evaporation.
9. Filter the solution through a paper
towel into a wide mouth bottle to collect crystals. Wash crystals with
1 teaspoon of alcohol and set aside to dry (approx. 16 hours) Drying time
can be reduced to 2 hours if a hot, not boiling, water bath is used. Note:
Explosive is shock and flame sensitive. Store in a capped container.
HMTD Sec I, No.
17
HMTD is a primary explosive that can
be made from hexamethylenetetramine, hydrogen peroxide, and citric acid.
This explosive is to be used with a boosterr explosive such as picric acid
(Sec I, No. 21) or RDX (Sec. I, No. 15) in the fabrication of detonators
(Sec VI, No. 13).
Materials Sources --------- -------
Hexamethylenetetramine Drugstore under names of urotropine, hexamine, methenamine,
etc. Army heat tablets (sterno?) Hydrogen Peroxide 6% hair bleach or stronger
Citric Acid Drug or Food stores, known as "sour salt" Containers, bottles
or glasses paper towels teaspoon pan water tape
Procedure ---------
1. Measure 9 teaspoons of hydrogen
peroxide into a container
2. In 3 portions, dissolve 2.5 teaspoons
of crushed hexamethylenetetramine (hexa) in the peroxide.
3. Keep the solution cool for 30 minutes
by placing container in a pan of cold water.
4. In 5 portions, dissolve 4.5 teaspoons
of crushed citric acid in the hexa- peroxide solution.
5. Permite solution to stand at room
temperatire until solid particles for at the bottom of the container. Note:
Complete precipitation will take place in 8-24 hours
6. Filter the mixture through a paper
towel into a container to collect the solid particles.
7. Wash the solid particles collected
in the paper towel with 6 teaspoons of water by pouring the water over
them. Discard the liquid in the container.
8. Place these explosives in a container
and allow to dry. Note: Handle dry explosive with great care. Do not scrape
or handle it roughly. Keep from open sparks or flames. Store in a cool,
dry place.
Potassium or Sodium
Nitrite and Litharge (lead monoxide) Sec. I, No. 18
Potassium or sodium nitrate is needed
to prepare DDNP (Sec. I, No. 19) and litharge is required for the preparation
of lead picrate (Sec. I, No. 20)
Materials Sources --------- -------
Lead metal (small pieces or chips) Plumbing supply Potassium or sodium
nitrite Field grade (Sec. I, No. 2) or drug store Methyl (wood) alcohol
Iron pipe with end cap Iron rod or screwdriver Paper towels 2 glass jars,
wide mouth metal pan heat source (hot coals or blow torch) improvised scale
(Sec VII, No. 8) cup water pan
Procedure ---------
1. Mix 12 grams of lead and 4 grams
of potassium or sodium nitrite in a jar. Place the mixture in the iron
pipe.
2. Heat iron pipe in a bed of hot coals
or with a blow torch for 30 minutes to one hour. (mixture will turn yellow)
3. Remove the iron pipe from the heat
source and allow to cool. Chip out the yellow material formed in the iron
pipe and place the chips in the glass jar.
4. Add .5 cup (120 ml) of methyl alcohol
to the chips.
5. Heat the glass jar containing the
mixture in a hot water bath for approx. 2 minutes. Heat until there is
a noticeable reaction between chips and alcohol; solution will turn darker.
6. Filter themixture through a paper
towel into the other glass jar. The material left of the paper towel is
lead monoxide.
7. Remove the lead monoxide and wash
it twice through a paper towel using .5 cup of hot water each time. Air
dry before using.
8. Place the jar with the liquid (step
6) in a hot water bath (as in step 5) and heat until the alcohol is evaporated.
The powder remaining in the jar after evaporation is potassium or sodium
nitrite. Note: Nitrite has a strong tendency to absorb water from the atmosphere
and should be stored in a closed container.
DDNP Sec. I, No.
19
DDNP is a primary explosive used in
the fabrication of detonators (Sec. I, No. 13). It is to be used with a
booster explosive such as picric acid (Sec. I, No. 21) or RDX (Sec. I,
No. 15).
Materials Sources --------- -------
Picric acid Sec. I, No. 21 Flowers of sulfur drug store lye (sodium hydroxide)
Red devil(tm) sink unstopper sulfuric acid, diluted motor vehicle batteries
Potassium or sodium nitrite Sec. I, No. 18 Water 2 glass cups, pyrex stirring
rod (glass or wood) Improvised scale Sec VII, No. 8 teaspoon tablespoon
eyedropper heat source containers tape
Procedure ---------
1. In one of the glass cups, mix .5
gram of lye with 2 tablespoons (30ml) of warm water.
2. Dissolve 1 teaspoon (3 grams) of
picric acid in the water-lye mixture. Store until ready for step 5.
3. Place .25 teaspoon (1ml) of water
in the other glass cup. Add .5 teaspoon (2.5 grams) of sulfur and 1/3 teaspoon
(2.5 g) of lye to the water.
4. Boil solution over heat source until
color turns dark red. Remove and allow solution to cool.
5. In three portions, add this sulfur-lye
solution to the picric acid-lye solution (step 2); stir while pouring.
Allow mixture to cool.
6. Filter the mixture through a paper
towel into a container. Small red particles will collect on the paper.
Discard the liquid in the container.
7. Dissolve the red particles in .25
cup (60 ml) of boiling water.
8. Remove and filter the mixture through
a paper towel, as in step 6. Discard the particles left on the paper.
9. Using an eyedropper, slowly add
the sulfuric acid to the filtered solution until it turns orange-brown.
10. Add .5 teaspoon (2.5 g) more sulfuric
acid to the solution. Allow the solution to cool to room temperature.
11. In a separate container, dissolve
.25 teapsoon (1.8 g) of potassium or sodium nitrite in 1/3 cup (80 ml)
of water.
12. Add this solution in one portion,
while stirring, to the orange-brown solution. Allow the mixture to stand
for 10 minutes. The mixture will turn light brown. Note: Mixture is now
primary explosive. Keep from sparks and flames.
13. Filter the mixture through a paper
towel. Wash the particles left on the paper with 4 teaspoons (20 ml) of
water.
14. Allow paricles to dry, approx.
16 hours. Drying time can be reduced to two hours if a hot (not boiling)
water bath is used. See Sec. I, No. 16. Note: Explosive is flame and shock
sensitive. Store in a capped container.
Preparation of
lead picrate Sec. I, No. 20
Lead picrate is used as a primary explosive
in the fabrication of detonators (Sec. VI, No. 13). It is to be used with
a booster exlosive such as picric acid (Sec. I, No. 21) or RDX (Sec. I,
NO. 15). Materials Sources --------- ------- Litharge (lead monoxide) Sec.
I, No. 18 or plumbing store Picric acid Sec. I, No. 21 Wood alcohol (methanol)
Paint remove, some antifreezes wooden or plastic rod dish or saucer (china
or glass) teaspoon improvised scale Sec. VII, No. 8 containers Flat pan
Heat source (Optional) Water (optional)
Procedure ---------
1. Weigh 2 grams each of picric acid
and lead monoxide. Place each in a separate container.
2. Place 2 teaspoons (10 ml) of the
alcohol in a dish. Add the picric acid to the alcohol and stir with the
wooden or plastic rod.
3. Add the lead monoxide to the mixture
while stirring. Note: Mixture is now primary explosive, keep from spark
or flame.
4. Continue stirring the mixture until
the alcohol has evaporated. The mixture will suddenly thicken.
5. Stir mixture occasionally (to stop
lumps from forming) until a powder is formed. A few lumps will remain.
Note: Be very careful of dry material forming one the inside of the container.
6. Spread this powdered mixture, the
lead picrate, in a flat pan to air dry. Note: If possible, dry the mixture
in a hot, not boiling, water bath for a period of two hours.
Preparation of
Picric Acid from asprin Sec. I, No. 21
Picric acid can be used as a booster
explosive in detonators (Sec. VI, No. 13), a high explosive charge, or
as an intermediate to preparing lead picrate (Sec. I, No. 20) or DDNP (Sec.
I, No. 19)
Materials Sources --------- -------
Aspirin tablets (5 grains per tablet) drugstore, kmart alcohol, 95% pure
Sulfuric acid, concentrated (boil until white fumes appear) potassium nitrate
(Sec. I, No. 2) Water paper towels cleaning jar, 1 pint rod (glass or wood)
glass containers ceramic or glass dish cup teaspoon tablespoon pan heat
source tape
Procedure ---------
1. Crush 20 aspirin tablets in a glass
container. Add 1 teaspoon of water and work into a paste.
2. Add approx. 1/3 to 1/2 cup of alcohol
(100 ml) to the aspirin paste; stir while pouring.
3. Filter the alcohol-aspirin solution
through a paper towel into another glass container. Discard the solid left
on the paper towel.
4. Pour the filtered solution into
a ceramic or glass dish.
5. Evaporate the alcohol and water
from the solution by placing the dish into a pan of hot water. White powder
will remain in the dish after evaporation. Note: Water in pan should be
at hot bath temperature, not boiling, approx. 160 degrees to 180 degrees
F. It should not burn the hands.
6. Pour 1/3 cup (80 ml) of concentrated
sulfuric acid into a canning jar. Add the white powder to the sulfuric
acid.
7. Heat canning jar of sulfuric acid
in a pan of simmering hot water bath for 15 minutes; then remove jar from
the bath. Solution will turn to a yellow-orange color.
8. Add 3 level teaspoons (15 g) of
potassium nitrate in three portions to the yellow-orange solution; stir
vigorously during additions. Solution will turn red, then back to a yellow-orange
color.
9. Allow the solution to cool to ambient
or room temperature while stirring occasionally.
10. Slowly pour the solution, while
stirring, into 1.25 cup (300 ml) of cold water and allow to cool.
11. Filter the solution through a paper
towel into a glass container. Light yellow particles will collect on the
paper towel.
12. Wash the light yellow particles
with 2 tablespoons (25 ml) of water. Discard the waste liquid in the container.
13. Place particles in ceramic dish
and set in a hot water bath, as it step 5, for 2 hours.
Double Salts Sec.
I, No. 22
Double salts is used as a primary explosive
in the fabrication of detonators (Sec. VI, No. 13). It can be made in the
field from silver (coins), nitric acid, calcium carbide, and water.
Materials Sources --------- -------
Nitric acid (90%) Sec. I, No. 4 Silver metal (silver coin, 5/8 in. in diameter)
Calcium carbide (acetylele or calcium carbide lamps) rubber and glass tubing
(approx. 1/4 in. inside diameter) paper towels heat resistant bottles or
ceramic jugs, 1 to 2 qt. capacity, and one cork to fit. (Punch hole in
cork to fir tubing) teaspoon *aluminum, stainless steel or wax-coated)
or equivalent measure glass container heat source long narrow jar (olive
jar) tape water alcohol Procedure ---------
1. Dilute 2/25 teaspoons of nitric
acid with 1.5 teaspoons of water in a glass container by adding the acid
to the water.
2. Dissolve a silver coin (a silver
dime) in the diluted nitric acid. The solution will turn to a green color.
Note: It may be necessary to warm the container to completely dissolve
the silver coin. Take the usual precautions when working with acid!
3. Pour solution into a long narrow
(olive) jar and place it in a bottle of hot water. Crystals will form in
the solution; heat until crystals dissolve.
4. While still heating and after crystals
have dissolved, place 10 teaspoons of calcium carbide in another glass
bottle and add 1 teaspoon of water. After the reaction has started add
another teaspoon of water. Then set up as shown. ----------------------------------------------------
<- rubber //--------------------------------------------------\\ tubing
glass ||<-tubing continues into jar (olive) || tubing>>||___ __||__
| | | | | || |<-cork | |olive | | ______|| || ||______ | | jar | | |
|| | | | w/ | | | || | | |silver| | | || | | | mix _______|____ acetylene
bubbles glass tubing>|| | | | / | | | || | | |______| <-water here (hot)
| || | |__________________| |calcium carbide & | | water | Heat source
here |____________________|
5. Bubble acetylene through the solution
for 5 to 8 minutes. A brown vapor will be given off and white flakes will
appear in the silver solution.
6. Remove the solver solution from
the heat source and allow it to cool. Filter the solution through a paper
towel into a glass container. Green crystals will collect on the paper.
7. Wash the solids collected on the
paper towel with 12 teaspoons of alcohol. The solid material will turn
white while the solvent in the container will have a green color.
8. Place the white solid material on
a clean paper towel to air dry. Note: Handle dry explosive with great care.
Do not scrape or handle it roughly. Keep from sparks or flame. Store in
a cool, dry place.
Sodium Chlorate
Sec. I, No. 23
Sodium chlorate is a strong oxidizer
used in the manufacture of explosives. it can be used in place of potassium
chlorate (see Sec. I, No. I).
Materials Sources --------- -------
2 carbon or lead rods (1 in. diameter x dry cell batteries (2.5 in. 5 in.
long) diameter x 7 in. long) or plumbing supply store salt, or ocean water
grocery store or ocean sulfuric acid, diluted motor vehicle batteries motor
vehicle water 2 wires, 16 gauge (3/64 in. diameter approx.) 6 ft. long,
insulated gasoline 1 gallon glass jar, wide mouth (5 in. diameter x 6 in.
high, approx.) sticks string teaspoon trays cup heavy cloth knife large
flat pan or tray
Procedure ---------
1. Mix .5 cup of salt into the one
gallon glass jar with 3 liters (3 qts) of water.
2. Add 2 teaspoons of battery acid
to the solution and stir vigorously for 5 minutes.
3. Strip back about 4 in. of insulation
from both end of the two wires.
4. With knife and sticks shape 2 strips
of wood 1 x 1/8 x 1.5. Tie the wood strips to the lead or carbon rods so
that they are 1.5 inches apart. ___________ ___________ | | | | |\ | |
/| | \ | | / | | \--|==========================|--/ | | /--|==========================|--\
| | / | ^ | \ | |/ | ^ | \| | | ^ | | |\ | wood sticks | / | | \ | | /
| | \ |==========================| | | |==========================| | |
| | | | | <--1.5 in. apart --> | | |_________| |_________|
5. Connect the rods to the battery
in the motor vehicle with the insulated wire.
6. Submerge 4.5 in. of the rods into
the salt water solution.
7. With gear in neutral position start
the vehicles engine. Depress the accelerator approx. 1/5 of its full travel.
8. Run the engine with the accelerator
in this postition for 2 hours; then; shut it down for 2 hours.
9. Repeat this cycle for a total of
64 hours while maintaining the level of the acid-salt water solution in
the glass jar. Note: This arrangement employs voltages which may be dangerous
to personnel. Do not touch the bare wire leads while the engine is running.
10. Shut off the engine. Remove the
rods from the glass jar and disconnect wire leads from the battery.
11. Filter the solution through the
heavy cloth into a flat pan or tray, leaving the sediment at the bottom
of the glass jar.
12. Allow the water in the filtered
solution to evaporate at room temperature (approx. 16 hours). The residuew
is approx 60% or more sodium chlorate which is pure enough to be used as
an explosive ingredient.
Mercury Fulminate
Sec. I, No. 24
Mercury fulminate is used as a primary
explosive in the fabrication of detonators (Sec. VI, No. 13). It is to
be used with a booster explosive such as picric acid (Sec. I, No. 21) or
RDX (Sec. I, No. 15). Materials Sources --------- ------- Nitric Acid (90%)
1.48 gr. field grade (Sec. I, No. 4) or industrial metal processors mercury
thermometers, old radio tubes ethyl (grain) alcohol (90%) filtering material
teaspoon measure (.25, .5, and 1 teaspoon capacity) aluminum, stainless
steel, or wax coated heat source clean wooden stick clean water glass containers
tape styringe
Procedure ---------
1. Dilute 5 teaspoons of nitric acid
with 2.5 teaspoons of clean water in a glass container by adding the acid
to the water.
2. Dissolve 1/8 teaspoon of mercury
in the diluted nitric acid. This will yield dark red fumes. Note: It may
be necessary to add water, one drop at a time, to the mercury-acid solution
in order to start reaction. Also take usual precautions when handling acid.
3. Warm 10 teaspoons of the alcohol
in a container until the alcohol feels warm to the inside of the wrist.
4. Pour the metal-acid solution into
the warm alcohol. Reaction should start in less than 5 minutes. Dense white
fumes will be given off during reaction. As time lapses, the fumes will
become less dense. Allow 10 to 15 minutes to complete reaction. Fulminate
will settle to bottom. Note: This reaction generates large quantities of
toxic, flammable fumes. The process must be conducted outdoors or in a
well ventilated area, away from sparks or flames. Do not inhlale fumes
unless you like death.
5. Filter the solution through a paper
towel into a container. Crystals may stick to the side of the container.
If so, tilt and squirt water down the sides of the container until all
the material collects on the filter paper.
6. Wash the crystals with 6 teaspoons
of ethyl alcohol.
7. Allow these to dry. Note: Handle
dry explosives with great care. Do not scrape or handle it roughly. Keep
away from sparks or open flame. Store in a cool dry place.
Sodium Chlorate
and sugar or aluminum explosive Sec. I, No. 25
An explosive munition can be made from
sodium chlorate combined with granular sugar, or aluminum powder. This
explosive can be detonated with a commercial #8 or Military J2 blasting
cap. Materials Sources --------- ------- sodium chlorate Sec. I, No. 23
granular sugar food store aluminum powder paint store wooden rod or stick
bottle or jar blasting cap steel pipe (threaded on one end) end cap and
tape measuring container
Procedure ---------
1. Add three volumes (cups, quarts,
etc) sodium chlorate to one volume aluminum powder, or two volumes of granular
sugar, in bottle or jar.
2. Mix ingredients well by stirring
with the wooden rod or stick.
How to Use ----------
1. Wax blasting cap, pipe and end cap.
2. Thread end cap onto pipe.
3. Pour munition into pipe.
4. Insert and tape blasting cap just
beneath surface of mixture. Note: Confining the open end of the pipe will
add to the effectiveness of the explosive.
Acetone/Peroxide
Explosive Sec. I, No. 26
Materials Sources --------- -------
Hydrogen Peroxide Drug store, Hair Bleach Acetone Hardware, drup stores
Sulfuric Acid Clear battery acid boiled until white fumes appear Eye dropper
or styringe with glass tube Graduated cylinder (cc or ml) or other measuring
device Thermometer (0-100 C) Glass containers Large pan Ice and salt Water
Paper towels
Procedure ---------
1. Measure 30 ml of acetone and 50
ml of hydrogen peroxide into a glass container and mix thoroughly.
2. Cool the acetone/peroxide mixture
by placing its container in a larger one containing a mixture of ice, salt
and water. Note: Because of the lighter inner container being buoyant in
the larger outer container, it is necessary to secure it so that it will
not fall over into the ice, salt, and water mixture.
3. Cool the acetone/peroxide mixture
to 5 degrees C.
4. Add 2.5 ml of concentrated sulfuric
acid to the acetone/peroxide mixture slowly. drop by drop, with the use
of an eye dropper. Stir the mixture during the addition of the sulfuric
acid with a thermometer, keeping the temperature between 5-10 degrees C.,
stop adding the sulfuric acid and continue stirring until the temp. drops
again to 5 degrees C., then continue adding the sulfuric acid. __ | |<-eye
dropper w/ concentrated sulfuric acid |__| \ \ | <- thermometer | \
\ | | | \ \ | | | \-\ | | | | | | | acetone/peroxide mix -----|-> | | |
| | | <-|---ice, salt, and water mix. | \-------/ | maintain 5-10 degrees
C. -------------------------
5. After all the sulfuric acid has
been added, continue stirring the mixture for another five minutes.
6. Let the acetone/peroxide/sulfuric
acid mixture stand in the ice/water/salt bath or remove the inner container
and place it in an ice box for 12-24 hours.
7. After 12 hours, white crystals of
acetone peroxide will precipitate out of the once clear solution. Precipitation
should be completed after 24 hrs. Note: At this point the mixture is a
primary explosive. Keep away from shock, friction and flame.
8. Filter the mixture through a paper
twoel into a container to collect all of the solid particles.
9. Wash the solid particles collected
in the paper towel with small amounts of ice cold water poured over them.
Discard the liquid in the container.
10. Place these explosive crystals
in a container and allow to dry. Note: Handle the dry explosive with great
care. Do not scrape or handle it roughly. Keep away from sparks or open
flame. Store in a cool, dark, dry place.
How to Use ---------- Acetone peroxide
is a powerful initiator and can be used by itself as the main filler when
making homeade detonators. Using 2.5" lengths of brass or copper tubing
with one end sealed shit with either solder or epoxy resin, begin by partiallly
filling the tube with acetone perroxide and compressing with a loading
press (Sec. VI, No. 13, Vol. 2 and Sec. II, No. 12, Vol 3). Continue This
process until the explosive is within 1/2" of the top. Cap the open end
tightly with a cork or wood stopper. When ready to use, remove stopper
and insert time fuse. Seal around fuse and tube insert into the main charge
to a depth of 2". The caps will detonate most of the explosives shown in
this volume. Note: These detonators should be used withing 7 days of thier
manufacture and should be stored in a cool, dry place.
Bullseye (low-high)
Explosive Sec. I, No. 27
A highly effective and powerful low
- high explosive can be obtained by simply using a fast burning double-based,
smokeless pistol powder called Bullseye. This propellant is used to reload
pistol and revolver cartridges and contains a sensitive mixture of nitroglycerin
and nitrocellulose.
Materials Sources --------- -------
Bullseye smokeless pistol powder Gun and reloading stores Compound detonator
or time fuse Five finger discount at many fine National Guard bases
How to Use ----------
1. To use as a low explosive, simply
pour the powder into a pipe with end caps and ignite with a time fuse.
When ignited, the pipe will explode into many fragments traveling at a
velocity of approximately 600 fps.
2. To use as a high explosive, simply
pour the powder into a pipe with end caps, insert a compound detonator
with a fuzing mechanism and detonate. When detonated, the pipe will fragment
into many small fragments traveling at a velocity in excess of 20,000 fps.
Note: Because of the unique mixture of nitroglycering with nitrocellulose
(double-base), Bullseye is one of the few propellants that can be detonated
with a blasting cap. When detonated, it is a powerful as military TNT and
should be used to defeat hard targets.
HTH/Naptha Explosive
Sec. I, No. 28
An explosive munition can be made from
granular calcium hypoclorite (HTH, swimming pool bleach) and petroleum
naptha. This explosive can be detonated with a compound detonator.
Materials Sources --------- -------
Granular calcium hypoclorite 70%, HTH Bleaching agent, swimming pool swimming
pool purifier. supply houses, better K-marts. Benzine (petroleum naptha)
Hardware and paint stores, paint thinner, cleaning fluid. Mixing container
(bowl, bucket, etc) Stirring rod (Wood) Measuring container (cup, tablespoon)
Storage container (jar, can) with tight lid Blasting cap, compound detonator
required Strong pipe with end caps
Procedure ---------
1. Measure out 32 parts by volume,
27 parts by weight, of calcium hypoclorite (CH) to 1 part by volume, 1
part by weight, of petroleum naptha into the mixing container.
2. Stir until thoroughly mixed with
wooden stirring rod.
How to Use ----------
1. This mixture forms a low power/brisant
high explosive which should be used under strong confinement and only as
an explosive filler for antipersonnel fragmentation bombs. To use, spoon
this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap on one end.
2. Insert a compound detonator just
beneath the surface of the explosive and screw the other end cap on with
a hole drilled through for the fuse. Note: Take care not to tamp or shake
the mixture in the pipe. If the mixture becomes tightly packed, one cap
will not be sufficient to detonate the explosive. Store in tightly sealed
container.
Potassium Permangante/Aluminum
Explosive Sec. I, No. 29
An explosive munition can be made from
potassium permanganate and aluminum powder. This explosive can be detonated
with a compound detonator.
Materials Sources --------- -------
Potassium permanganate chemical and photography stores fine aluminum bronzing
powder paint stores measuring container (cup, tablespoon, etc.) storage
container with tight lid two flat boards (one should be comfortably held
in the had such as a square block or rolling pin and one very large, ie.,
36" x 36" blasting cap, compound detonator required strong pipe with end
caps
Procedure ---------
1. Spread a handful at a time of potassium
permanganate on the large flat board and rub vigorously with the other
flat board or rolling pic until the large particles are crushed into a
very fine powder (approx. 10 minutes per handful)
2. Measure 2 volumes (cups, tablespooons,
etc.), 60% by weight, of potassium permanganate with three volumes, 40%
by weight, of fine aluminum bronzing powder into a mixing container with
a tight fitting lid.
3. Secure the lid tightly and shake
the mixture for approx. five minutes to mix thoroughly.
4. Store the explosive in the mixing
container until ready to use. Before using, shake the contents once again
to remix any settled particles.
How to Use ----------
1. This mixture forms a low power/brisant
high explosive which should be used under strong confinement and only as
an explosive filler for antipersonnel fragmentation bombs. To use, spoon
this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap on one end.
2. Insert compound detonator just beneath
the surface of the explosive and screw the other end cap on with a hole
drilled through for the fuse.
Potassium Chlorate/Sulfur
Explosive Sec. I, No. 30
An impact sensitive explosive can be
made from potassium chlorate and sulfur. This explosive can be used as
a filler when making reusable primers (Sec. III, No. 5, Vol. 1) or as a
fill when making impact sensitive fragmentation bombs.
Materials Sources --------- -------
Potassium chlorate Drug stores, chemical supply houses Sulfur Drug Stores
Measuring container Mixing container Two flat boards (same as No. 29)
Procedure ---------
1. Spread a handful at a time of potassium
chlorate on the large flat board and rub vigorously with the other flat
board or rolling pin until the large particles are crushed into a very
fine powder (approx. 10 minutes per handful). Note: Clean and dry both
boards before using again with a different substance.
2. Repeat this process using the sulfur.
3. Measure 7 parts by volume, 11 parts
by weight, of powdered potassium chlorate and 1 part by volume, 1 part
by weight of powdered sulfur into the mixing container. Note: This mixture
forms an extremely shock sensitive explosive, especially between two metal
surfaces. Reasonable care should be exercised from this point on.
4. Gently tumble the mixing container
between the hands until the ingredients are thoroughly mixed together.
5. Place the mixed explosive in a tightly
sealed storage container until ready to use. Note: Do not store the mixed
explosive for more than five days before using. KEEP THIS EXPLOSIVE DRY
AT ALL TIMES.
How to Use ----------
1. This explosive can either be used
to either fill primer caps (Sec. III, No. 5, Vol. 1), reloading ammunition,
or it can be used to make the following palm sized fragmentation bombs:
A. Obtain a short section of threaded
water pipe with two end caps.
B. Thread on end cap onto the pipe
and fill 1/4 full with steel ball bearings.
C. Fill the remaining space with potassium
chlorate/sulfur mixture and screw the remaining end cap on. /*_*_*_*_*_*\
<-threaded end cap |_---------_| |--O-O--| actual water pipe -> |-----O-|
"O's" represent ball bearings _|-O-----|_ "-'s" represent the mixture |_-_-_O_-_-_|
\***********/ <-threaded end cap Note: Maintain a loose mixture between
the ball bearings and explosive by not over tamping the explosive into
the pipe. This will allow the ball bearings to move and impact together.
D. Gently tumble the pipe between the
hands to mix the ball bearings with the explosive.
E. When ready to use, throw against
or near the target area.
Potassium chlorate/Kerosene
explosive Sec. I, No. 31
An effectove explosive munition can
be made by simply pouring kerosene into powdered potassium chlorate. This
explosive can be detonated with a compound detonator.
Materials Sources --------- -------
Potassium chlorate Drug, chemical supply stores Kerosene Hardware stores
Measuring container Mixing container Stirring rod Storage container with
tight lid Two flat boards (same as No. 30) Compound detonator
Procedure ---------
1. Spread a handful at a time of potassium
chlorate on the large flat board and rub vigorously with the other flat
board or rolling pin until the large particles are crushed into a very
fine powder (approx. 10 minutes per handful)
2. To produce the explosive, all that
is required is to pour 1 part by volume, 10% by weight, of kerosene into
9 parts by volume, 90% by weight, of potassium chlorate. Stir until completely
mixed, then store in a sealed conatainer until ready to use.
3. Another method in producing the
explosive is to lightly pre-pack a selected charge container with powdered
potassium chlorate. When ready to use, simply pour the pre-measured amount
of kerosene into the potassium chlorate and allow to soak in for five minutes
before using.
How to use ----------
1. This mixture forms a low power/brisant
high explosive which should be used under strong confinement and only as
an explosive filler for antipersonnel fragmentation bombs and light blasting
operations.
2. to use, spoon this mixture into
an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap on one end. Note: Store mixed
explosive in mixing container or load into pipe.
3. Insert compound detonator just beneath
the surface of the explosive and screw the other end cap on with a hole
drilled through for the fuse.
4. The pipe can be pre-filled with
potassium chlorate and when ready to use, simply pour in the kerosene,
allow to soak for five minutes, then detonate.
Potassium chlorate/Notrobenzene
Explosive Sec. I, No. 32
A moise explosive can be made from
solid potassium chlorate and liquid nitrobenzene. This explosive has medium
to high power and brisance. It can be used as a substitute for 50% ditching
dynamite or flake TNT. This exlosive can be readily detonated by a standard
blasting cap (No. 6). Materials Sources --------- ------- Potassium chlorate
Drug and chemical supply stores Nitrobenzene Drug stores (oil of mirbane),
chemical supply houses Measuring container Mixing container Storage container
with tight lid Two flat boards (from No. 31) Blasting cap (No. 6)
Procedure ---------
1. Use step one from No. 31 to pulverize
the potassium chlorate. Note: Nitrobenzene is extremely toxic and should
be handled in well ventilated areas. Harmful effects may result from swallowing,
inhalation of vapors, or contact with the skin or eyes. In case of accidental
spilling, wash the addected area immediately with large quantities of water.
2. To produce the explosive, all that
is required is to pour 1 part by volume, 20% by weight of nitrobenzene
into 4 parts by volume, 80% by weight, of powdered potassium chlorate.
Stir until completely mixed, then store in a sealed container wintil ready
for use.
3. Another effective method in producing
the explosive is to tightly pre-pack a selected charge container with powdered
potassium chlorate. When ready for use, simply pour the pre-measured amount
of nitrobenzene into the potassium chlorate and allow to soak for 3 to
3 minutes before using. Note: An important factor to observe when pouring
the nitrobenzene into the potassium chlorate is to not allow the potassium
chlorate to be disturbed after it has been soaked with nitrobenzene. Whenever
a liquid is poured into a powdered substance, a natural "caking action"
will result, producing a fairly uniform density throughout the solid material.
Since uniform density has a direct overall effect on the explosive performance,
it is important to first pre-pack a rigid container with the potassium
chlorate and then pour in the nitrobenzene and allow it to soak in without
stirring. This will produce a high performance explosive. Mixing in a plastic
bag will produce a low performance exlosive.
How to Use ----------
1. This mixture forms a very powerful
explosive that can be used for general purpose blasting and ditching operations.
It is extremely sensitive to detonation and can be initiated by simple
homemade detonators.
Nitromethane/Sawdust
explosive Sec. I, No. 33
A simple nitromethane based explosive
can be made by simply pouring nitromethane into a container filled with
screened sawdust. This explosive can be detonated with a compound detonator.
Materials Sources --------- ------- Nitromethane Chemical supply houses,
hobby shops (fuel for r/c cars) Sawdust (fine) Common window screen Measuring
container Mixing container Storage container Compound detonator
Procedure ---------
1. Using a common window screen as
a sieve, place a handful of sawdust in the center and shake between the
hands in a back and forth motion. Collect the sawdust that passes through
and discard the rest. (do not force big pieces through the screen)
2. Measure out 2 parts by volume, 20%
by weight, of screened sawdust into a mixing container. Pour in 1 part
by volume, 80% by weight, of liquid nitromethane. Stir until completely
mixed.
3. Store in a sealed container until
ready to use.
How to Use ----------
1. This mixture forms a medium power/brisant
high explosive which should be used under strong confinement and as a filler
for fragmentation bombs and light blasting operations.
2. To use, spoon this mixture into
an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap on one end.
3. Insert a compound detonator just
beneath the surface of the explosive and screw the other end cap on with
a hole drilled through for the fuse.
4. The pipe can be pre-filled with
sawdust. When ready for use, simply pour in the nitromethane, then detonate.
Nitromethane/Ammonium
Nitrate Explosive Sec. I, No. 34
A moist explosve can be made from solid
ammonium nitrate fertilizer combined with liquid nitromethane. This explosive
has both high power and high brisance and can be used as a direct substitute
for TNT. This explosive can be readily detonated by a blasting cap, No.
6 in strength. A compound detonator is not required.
Materials Sources --------- -------
Ammonium nitrate fertilizer (not less than Farm or feed store, or chemical
32% nitrogen) or pure supply house Nitromethane Hobby stores, chemical
supply house measuring container mixing container storage container w/
tight lid Two flat boards (same as No. 30) Blasting cap (No. 6)
Procedure ---------
1. Spread a handful at a time of the
fertilizer on the large flat board and rub vigirously with the other board
or rolling pin until the large particles are crushed into a fine powder
that looks like flour (approx. 10 minutes per handful) Note: Proceed with
steps 2 and 3 as soon as possible, since the powder may moisture from the
air and become spoiled.
2. To produce the explosive, all that
is required is to pour 1 part by volume or 2 parts by weight of nitromethane
into 3 parts by volume or 5 parts by weight of powdered ammonium nitrate.
Stir until completely mixed, then store in a sealed container until ready
to use.
3. Another effective method in producing
the explosive is to tightly pre-pack a selected charge container with powdered
ammonium nitrate. When ready to use, simply pour the pre-measured amount
of nitromethane into the ammonium nitrate and allow to soak in for 3 to
5 minutes before using. Note: An important factor to observe when pouring
the nitromethane into the ammonium nitrate is to not allow the ammonium
nitrate to be disturbed after it has been soaked with nitromethane. Whenever
a liquid is poured into a powdered substance, a natural "caking action"
will result, producing a fairly uniform density throughout the solid material.
Since uniform density has a direct overall effect of the explosive performance,
it is important to first pre-pack a rigid container with ammonium nitrate
and then pour in the nitromethane and allow to soak without stirring. This
will produce a high performance explosive. Mixing in a plastic bag will
produce a low performance explosive.
How to Use ----------
1. This explosive is one of the most
powerful/brisant two component explosives readily available. Each component
is perfectly safe to handle by itself. However, when the two are mixed
together, they form a sensitive high explosive that can be detonated with
a standard blasting cap.
2. This explosive mixture should be
used to defeat hard targets, such as steel and reinforced concrete. It
can also be used with special charges that require high brisance, i.e.,
shaped charges, platter charges, and SCIMP charges.
Nitromethane Liquid
explosive Sec. I, No. 35
A liquid explosive, that resembles
water in appearance, can be made from nitromethane and aqueous ammonia
(household glass cleaner). This exposive is 22 to 24 more powerful that
military TNT and can be detonated with a standard blasting cap. However,
to achieve maximum velocity, a compound detonator should be used.
Materials Sources --------- -------
Nitromethane chemical supply or hooby store (racing fuel) Aniline, ethylenediamine,
aqueous ammonia Hardware stores, chemical (non-detergent) supply, grocery
store measuring container (cup, pint, etc.) blasting cap or compound detonator
Procedure --------- Note: Nitromethane is a common chemical reagent, and
under normal conditions cannot be made to detonate even if a strong detonator
is used. However, if certain ammonia-containing compounds (called sensitizers)
are alled in small percentages (5-6 %), then the sensitized nitromethane
can be detonated with a standard #8 blasting cap. The most effective sensitizers
are aniline and ethylenediamine. The most readily available sensitizer
is common household glass cleaner (aqueous ammonia).
1. To produce the explosive, simply
pour the sensitizer into the nitromethane and mix thoroughly. One-half
pic sensitizer will sensitize one gallon of nitromethane.
2. The explosive can be premixed, or
for safety's sake, it can be mixed just prior to use by prefilling a charge
container with nitromethane and then adding the sensitizer when ready to
detonate.
How to Use ----------
1. This liquid explosive can be used
whenever or wherever a liquid can be used for disguiseability. It can be
poured directly into prefabricated special charge containers, i.e., shape
charges, platter charges, and SCIMP charges, without special measures being
taken to maintain uniform densities required for solid explosives to be
effective.
2. To obtain the maximum efficiency,
a compound detonator should be used for initiation. Reliability of initiation
is increased by positioning and immersing the detonator centrally with
respect to the wall of the container. By centrally positioning and immersing
the detonator in the liquid, the output energy of the detonator is transmitted
to the explosive instead of being partially dissipated through the wall
of the container. do dont "-" = cap | - | -| | | - | -| | | - | -| | +++++++
+++++++
Fertilizer/hydrazine
liquid explosive Sec. I, No. 36
A liquid explosive can be made from
solid ammonium nitrate fertilizer combined with liquid anhydrous hydrazine.
This liquid explosive is more powerful and brisant than C4 plastic explosive
and can be used as a direct replacement for C4. This explosive can be detonated
with a blasting cap. However, to achieve maximum velocity a compound detonator
should be used.
Materials Sources --------- -------
Ammonium nirtate fertilizer (not less than farm or feed store or 32% nitrogen)
chemical supply store anhydrous hydrazine chemical supply house large mixing
container glass stirring rod storage container blasting cap, compound detonator
Procedure --------- Note: Anhydrous
hydrazine is classified as as corrosive and is flammable. Keep away from
spark or flame. It is also mildly toxic and should be handled in well ventilated
areas. Affected areas of skin should be washed with large quantities of
water.
1. Pour into the mixing container an
amount of anhydrous hydrazine equal to the amount of explosive required.
2. Ammonium nitrate (prilled or powdered)
is then added, a teaspoon at a time, to the hydrazine in the mixing container.
Note: The mixing container should be fairly large (5x the volume of the
hydrazine) because the chemical reaction between the ammonium nitrate and
the hydrazine is extremely effervescent and can easily bubble over the
top.
3. Because of the effervescent reaction,
the ammonium nitrate should be added very slowly so as not to create accidental
over-flowing. With each addition of ammonium nitrate, the person doing
the mixing should wait for the initial reaction to subside, then stir the
solution until all of the ammonium nitrate dissolves into it. Note: The
reaction between the ammonium nitrate and hydrazine liberates large volumes
of poisonous gas. The person doing the mixing should be upwind of the mixing
process so as not to breath the poisonous fumes.
4. The mixing process is continued
until the ammonium nitrate no longer dissolves into the solution, even
after five minutes of stirring, and a small amount reamains undissolved
at the bottom of the mixing container. This undissolved ammonium nitrate
does not affect the performance of the explosive.
5. After the mixing process is complete,
what will remain will be a clear liquid explosive more powerful and brisant
that any military explosive. Note: The mixed explosive has a lower toxicity
of the hydrazine. However, it is recommended that the same handling precautions
be observed.
6. To make an even more powerful explosive,
20% aluminum powder (100 mesh or finer) can be added to the ammonium nitrate
before mixing with the hydrazine (it does not react with the other two
ingredients), or ir can be added after the mixing process is complete.
How to Use ----------
1. This explosive is the most powerful/brisant
of the two complement explosive systems available. It can be used whenever
or wherever a liquid can be used for disguiseability.
2. It can be poured directly into prefabricated
special charge containers, i.e., shape, platter and SCIMP charges, without
special measures being taken to maintain uniform densities required by
solid explosives to be effective.
3. It has unique absorption and retention
poperties which can be used to create a liquid land mine. The liquid explosive
can be poured directly into the ground, soaking into and blending with
the surrounding earth. The pocket of explosive can be initiated by a conventional
electrically or mechanically actuated detonator. These pockets of explosives
have remained detonable for four days in the ground, even when the soil
was soaked due to rainy weather. /----wet explosive in ground. ____________
/ ____________ \ \_/ /
\ _____/____
\_______/ \-detonator placed here
Explosive paper Sec I, No. 37
An excellent absorption explosive can be made from a solution of PETN (the
center filler of detonator cord), acetone, and mineral oil. When any non-gloss
paper, i.e., newspaper, paperback books, corrugated cardboard, etc., is dipped
in this explosive solution and then removed and allowed to dry, the paper will
retain its original texture and appearance along with a microcrystaline high
explosive incorporated into the fiber content of the paper. This produces a
disguised explosive that can be carried into a target area without arousing
suspicion.
Materials Sources
PETN detonating cord (primacord)
Acetone hardware stores
mineral oil drug stores
mixing container
pan or bucket larger than the mixing
container
large, flat pan, (cake pan)
sheets of newspaper, paperback books,
corrugated cardboard, etc.
Procedure
1. Using a razor blade, cut detonating cord lengthwise and remove the center
filler (P.E.T.N.). Approx. .5 lb. of PETN can be removed per 100 ft.
of detonating cord.
2. Fill a canning jar 2/3 full of acetone and heat until mildly warm by
placing the canning jar in a pan or bucket on heat source when it contains
the canning jar.
3. Add PETN to the acetone, a tablespoon a a time, while stirring with a
stirring rod. Stir the solution until the PETN dissolves. Add more PETN
until it no longer dissolves into solution, even after five minutes of
stirring. Approx. 1/3 lb. of PETN will dissolve in every lb. of warm
acetone used.
4. Approx. 2% mineral should be added to the final solution. This mineral
oil will prevent the crystals of PETN from recrystalizing to a noticeable
size when the acetone evaporates. The mineral oil will also provide a
better texture to the paper when it is dry after the soaking process.
5. Pout this solution into a large, flat pam, then fill the pan with even
sheets of a non gloss paper. It rolled newspaper is used, unroll it and
lay it out evenly in the an. Allow the paper to soak for 30 minutes.
6. After soaking for 30 minutes, remove the paper and allow to dry for at
least 24 hours. DO NOT DRY IN AN OVEN. After the papr has had time to
dry, 50 % of its weight will consist of a microcrystaline high explosive
intimately incorporated into the fiber content of the paper.
How to Use
1. To use simply insert a blasting cap ot compound detonator into the paper
and detonate.
2. If a rolled newspaper is used, the detonator and fusing mechanism can
be concealed in the center of the roll and easily carried into the
target area and left where destruction is desired. An average size
newspaper has the explosive equivalent of several sticks of dynamite.
RDX Sec. I, No. 38
RDX is a powerful/brisant high explosive that can be made from
hexamethylenetetramine and strong nitric acid. It can be used as a booster
explosive for compound detonators, as a main explosive filler, and for the
manufacture of explosive flour (Sec. I, No. 39)
Materials Sources
Hexamethylenetetramine (hexamine) Drug stores under names of
urotropine, hexamin,
methenamine, etc.
strong nitric acid (d 1.50) Sec. I, No. 4
Acetone drug store
weighing scale with at least gram
accuracy or measuring spoons
graduated cylinder (cc or ml) or
measuring cups
thermometer 20 degrees 100 degrees C or
68 degrees 212 degrees F
several large quart canning jars
two large basins or bowls made of metal
or other similar material that can be
heated
paper towels
Procedure
1. Place .5 cup, 120 ml or cc of nitrix acid in a large canning jar and bring
the temperature to between 20 and 30 degrees C. (68-86 F) By putting the
jar in a basin of cold water. If necessary, swirl the canning jar around
the basin of cold water to bring the temperature down, while being careful
not to allow any water to splash into the acid.
Note: Maintain the thermometer in the acid throughout the reaction while
carefully noting and controlling the temperature by alternating the jar between
the basin of cold water and the basin of hot water. The thermometer can be
used as a stirring rod if the solution is gently stirred.
2. Weigh or measure out 70 grams by weight, 18 teaspoons by volume, of the
hexamine and start adding the salt-like hexamine slowly, 1/2 teaspoon
at a time, during a 15 minute period. Maintain the temp. between 20 30
degrees C, while stirring gently with the thermometer. Control the temp.
by dipping the canning jar in and out of the basin filled with cold water.
3. When all of the hexamine is dissolved in the acid, heat the solution to
55 degrees C, by placing the canning jar in a bsin of hot water. Maintain
tis temperature for about 10 minutes.
4. After heating the solution for 10 minutes, remove the canning jar from
the basin of cold water and place it in the basin of cold water. Cool the
canning jar to 20 degrees C. (68 degrees F).
5. When the temperature has reached 20 degrees C, add 3 cups (750 ml) of
cold water to the solution and a white salt will appear.
Note: The white salt is RDX and should be handled with great care from now on.
6. Filter the acid/water/RDX solution through a paper towel covering the
mouth of another jar.
7. Wash the RDX crystals off the paper towel and into a canning jar, using
an additional 3 cups of fresh, cold water. Add a teaspoon of sodium
carbonate to neutralize the acid and stir rapidly for 2-3 minutes, then
filter again.
8. The crude product can be dried out on the paper towel filter. It is
suitable for fairly immediate use, or it can be purified.
9. To purify RDX, fill a quart canning jar 2/3 full of acetone. Heat the
acetone by placing the jar in a basin of hot simmering water, then add
RDX, a tablespoon at a time, until it completely dissolves in the
acetone.
10. After the maximem amount of RDX has been dissolved into the hot acetone,
allow the solution to cool to room temperature, then let stand for one
more hour.
11. The RDX will form a salt once again. Filter the RDX and spread it out on
a paper towel as before.
12. The purified RDX should be stored in a clean canning jar with a tight
fitting lid. It can be stored for months without loss of effectiveness.
Note: RDX is not too sensitive to heat and shock, but is fairly sensitive to
friction. Care should therefore be taken when the explosive is to be packed or
when the dry explosive is handled. Using the amounts of chemicals listed in
this article, the yield of RDX should be about 1/5 oz.
Explosive Flour Sec. I, No. 39
An explosive that looks and bakes like ordinary wheat flour can be made from a
mixture flour and RDX. It can be used in many different forms as an explosive:
in its dry powder form, moistened with water and used as a dough like plastic
explosive, or by using special recipes it can be baked into pancakes or
bisuits.
Materials Sources
RDX Sec. I, No. 15
Sec. I, No. 38
Flour grocery store
large sheet of wood, and a rolling pin
(wood must be flat)
Procedure
1. Place a tablespoonful of RDX crystals on the large sheet of wood. Using
a rolling pic, crush the crystals into a fine powder, the consistency of
flour.
Note: Use only a rolling pic, not a block of wood. It is important to crush
the RDX crystals into a fine powder rather than using friction between to
rubbing surfaces.
2. Mix 80% by weight of powdered RDX with 20% by weight of flour in a canning
jar with a tight fitting lid by shaking for five minutes.
3. The mixed explosive flour can be stored in the sealed mixing conainer for
long periods of time before using. It can also be disguised by storing
it in an original bag of flour.
How to Use
1. This explosive flour is more powerful and brisant that military TNT and
is easiest to detonate in its powdered form. A standard blasting cap
provides sufficient shock to set it off.
2. To use as a plastic explosive, mix 4 parts by weight of flour to 1 part
by weight of water. This forms a dough that has very desirable plastic
qualities which can be used to mold itself around vertain types of
targets in the same manner as military C4 plastic explosive. A compound
detonator must be use to insure positive detonation.
3. The following recipes make it possible to bake the powdered explosive into
pancakes or biscuits:
A. For pancakes, use this recipe:
3 cups explosive flour
2 teaspoons of baking powder
.5 teaspoon of salt
1 cup of milk
1 egg
2 tablespoons of melted lard
Note: This pancake mixture can be left of the griddle until it completely chars
with no unusual effects, thus demonstrating the stability of the mixture to
heat.
B. For explosive biscuits, use this recipe:
3 cups explosive flour
2 teaspoons of baking powder
3/8 teaspoon of salt
2 teaspoons of lard
88 ml or cc of water
4. The finished pancakes and biscuits look, feel, and taste like ordinary
pancakes and biscuits. However, they are highly toxic, and SHOULD NOT
BE EATEN. Before using these baked items as an explosive, they must be
moistened and kneaded into a plastic masss to remove the air spaces.
They may be exploded in the same manner as the plastic form.
Pipe Hand Grenade Sec. II, No. I
Hand grenades can be made from a piece of iron pipe. The filler can be plastic
or granular military explosive, improvised explosive, or propellant from
shotgunn or small arms ammunition.
Materials Sources
Iron pipe, threaded ends, 1.5" to 3" in
diameter, 3" to 8" long
2 end caps
explosive or propellant
nonelectric blasting cap (comm. or military)
fuse cord
hand drill
pliers
Procedure
1. Place blasting cap on one end of fuse cord and crimp with pliers.
Note: To find out how long the fuse cord should be, check the time it takes
for a known length of fuse to burn. If 12 inches burns in 30 seconds, a six
inch cord will ignite the grenade in 15 seconds.
2. Screw pipe cap to one end of pipe. Place fuse cord with blasting cap into
the opposite end so that the blasting cap is near the center of the pipe.
Note: If plastic explosive is to be used, fill pipe before inserting blasting
cap. Push a round stick into the center of the exlosive to make a hole and
then insert blasting cap.
3. Pour exlposive or propellant into pipe a little at a time. Tap the base
of the pipe frequently to settle filter.
4. Drill a hole in the center of the unassembled pipe cap large enough
for the fuse cord to pass through.
5. Wipe pipe threads to remove any filler material. Slide the drilled pipe
cap over the fuse and screw handtight onto pipe.
Nail Grenade Sec. II, No. 2
Effective fragmentation grenades can be made from a block of TNT or other
blasting explosive and nails.
Materials Sources
Block of TNT or other blasting explosive
Nails
Non-electric military blasting cap
fuse cord
tap, string, wire or glue
Procedure
1. If an explosive charge other than a standard TNT block is used, make
a hole in the center of the charge for inserting the blasting cap. TNT
can be drilled with relative safety. With plastic explosives, a hole can
be made by pressing a round stick into the center of the charge. The hole
should be deep enough that the blasting cap is totally within the
explosive.
2. Tape, tie or glue on or two rows of closely packed nails to sides of
explosive block. Nails should completely cover the four surfaces of the
block.
3. Place blasting cap on one end of the fuse cord and crimp with pliers.
Note: Use same method in Sec. II, No. 1 to determine burning lengths of fuse.
4. Insert the blasting cap in the hole in the block of explosive. Tape or tie
fuse cord securly in place so that it will not fall out when the grenade
is thrown.
Alternate Use
An effective directional anti-personnel mine can be made by placing nails on
only one side of the explosive block. For this case, an electric blasting cap
should be used.
Wine Bottle Cone Charge Sec. II, No. 3
This cone charge will penetrate 3 to 4 in. of armor. Placed on an engine
conpartment, it will disable a tank or other vehicle beyond immediate repair.
Materials Sources
Glass wine bottle with cone shaped false
bottom
Plastic or castable explosive
blasting cap
gasoline or kerosene (small amount)
string
adhesive tape
Procedure
1. Soak a piece of string in gasoline or kerosene. Double wrap this
string around the wine bottle approx. 3 in. above the top of the cone.
Note: Adding a small amount of motor oil to the gasoline or kerosene will
improve results.
2. Ignite the string and allow to burn for 1 to 2 minutes. Then plunge the
bottle into cold water to crack it. The top half can now be easily removed
and discarded.
3. If plastic explosive is used:
A. Pack explosive into the bottle a little at a time compressing with
a wooden rod. Fill the bottle up to the top.
B. Press a .25 in. wooden dowel .5 in into the middle of the top of
the explosive charge to form a hole for the blasting cap.
4. If TNT or other castable explosive is used:
A. Break explosive into small pieces using a wooden mallet or non-
sparking metal tools. Place pieces in a tin can.
B. Suspend this can in a larger container which is partly filled with
water. A stiff wire or stick pushed through the smaller can will
accomplish this.
Note: The inner can must not rest on the bottom of the outer container.
C. Heat the containr on a electric hot plate or other heat source. Stir
the explosive frequently with a wooden stick while it is melting.
Note: Keep area well ventilated while melting explosive. Fumes may be
poisonous.
D. When all the explosive has melted, remove the inner container and
stir the molten explosive until it begins to thicken. Diring this
time the bottom half of the wine bottle should be placed in the
container of hot water. This will pre-heat the bottle so that it
will not crack whenthe explosive is poured.
E. Remove the bottle from how water and dry thoroughly. Pour molten
explosive into the bottle and allow to cool. The crust which
forms on top of the charge during cooling should be broken with a
wooden stick and more explosive added. Do this as often as necessary
until the bottle is filled to the top.
F. When explosive has completely hardened, bore a hole for the blasting
cap in the middle of the top of the charge about .5 in. deep.
How to Use
1. Place blasting cap in the hole in the top of the charge. If non-electric
blasting cap is used, be sure cap is crimped around fuze and fuze is
long enough to provide safe delay.
2. Place the charge so that the bottom is 3-4 in. from the target. This can
be done by taping legs to the charge or any other convenient means as
long as there is nothing between the base of the charge and the target.
3. If electric blasting cap is used, connect blasting wires to firing
circuit.
Note: The effectiveness of this charge can be increased by placing it inside a
can, box, or similar container and packing sand or dirt between the charge and
the container.
Grenade/Tin can land mine Sec. II, No. 4
This device can be used as a land mine that will explode when the trip wire is
pulled.
Materials Sources
Hand grenade having side safety lever
Sturdy container, open at one end, that is just
large enough to slip over the grenade and its
safety lever.
Strong string or wire
Procedure
1. Fasten one piece of string to the closed end of the container, making
a strong connection. This can be done by punching 2 holes in the can,
looping through them, and tying a knot.
2. Tie free end of this string to bush, stake, fencepost, etc.
3. Fasten another length of string to the grenade such that it cannot
interfere with the functioning of the ignition mechanism of the
grenade.
4. Insert grenade into container.
5. Lay free length of string across path and fasten to stake, bush, etc.
The string should remain taught.
stake container w/ grenade stake
_______
| trip wire | |
|------------------------------------ |------------------|
| ______| |
How to Use
1. Carefully withdraw safety pin by pulling on ring. Be sure safety lever
is restrained during this position during this operation. Grenade will
function in normal manner when trip wire is pulled.
Note: In area where concealment is possible, a greater effect may be obtained
by suspending the grenade several feet above ground, as illustrated below (yuk)
\ \ | |
\ \ | |
\ \ | tree |
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| \ | |
| \| |
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/ / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / />|
| | | |___| | | | | | | | | stake trip wire | | | |----------------------------------------------/\
| | | / \------------- knot
Mortar Scrap mine
Sec. II, No. 5
A directional mine that can be placed
in the path of advancing troops.
Materials Sources --------- -------
Iron pipe, appprox. 3 ft. in length and 2-4 Scrapyard, steel company in.
in diameter and threaded on at least Salvaged artillery case one end Threaded
cap to fit pipe black powder or salvaged artillery powder (.5 lb total)
Electrical igniter (commercial SQUIB or improvised ignitor from Sec. VI,
No. 1. Safety or improvised fuse may also be used Small stones, about 1
in. in diameter or small size scap; about 1 lb. total rags for wadding,
each 20 in. x 20 in. paper or bag battery and wire stick (non-metallic)
Note: Be sure pipe has no cracks or flaws
Procedure ---------
1. Screw threaded cap onto pipe.
2. Place propellant and igniter in
paper or rag and tie package with string so contents will not fall out.
3. Insert packaged propellant and igniter into pipe until package rests
against threaded cap leaving firing leads extending from open end of pipe.
4. Roll rag until it is about 6 in.
long and the same diameter as pipe. Insert rag wadding against packaged
propellant ignitor. With caution, pack tightly using stick.
5. Insert stones and/or scrap metal
into pipe.
6. Insert second piece of rag wadding
against stones and/or metal scrap. pack tightly as before. explosive stones/scrap
firing leads rags rags ------------------------------------------------
|XXXXXX:::::::::(*&(*()(*&::::::::::::\\\\\\\\\\\ |XXXXXX:::::::::()&*%%^$*)::::::::::::\\\\\\\\\\\\\
------------------------------------------------ \\ \\
How to Use ----------
1. Bury pipe in ground with open end
facing the expected path of the enemy. The open end may be covered with
cardboard and a thin layer of dist or leaves as camoflage.
2. Connect firing leads to battery
and switch. Mine can be remotely fired when needed or attached to a trip
device placed in path of advancing troops. Note: A NON-ELECTRICAL ignition
system can be substituted for the electrical system as follows: 1. Follow
above procedure, substituting safety fuse for igniter. 2. Light safety
fuse when ready to fire. Coke bottle shaped charge Sec.II, No. 2 This shaped
charge will penetrate 3 in. of armor. It will disable a vehicle if placed
on the engine or engine compartment.
Materials --------- Glass coke bottle
6.5 oz. size plastic or castable explosive, about 1 lb. blasting cap metal
cylinder, open at both ends, about 6 in. long and 2 in. inside diameter
(should be heavy walled for best results) plug to fit mouth of coke bottle
(rags, metal, wood, paper, etc.) Non-metal rod about .25 in. in diameter
and 8 in. or more in length tape or string 2 tin cans if castable explosive
is used (see Sec. II, No. 3)
Procedure ---------
1. Place plug in mouth of bottle.
2. Place cylinder over top of bottle
until bottom of cyliner rests of widest part of bottle. Tape cylinder to
bottle. Container should be straight on top of bottle.
3. If plastic explosive is used: A.
Place explosive in cylinder a little at a time tamping with rod until cylinder
is full. B. Press the rod about .5 in. into the middle of the top of the
exlosive charge to form a hole for the blasting cap.
4. If castable explosive is use, follow
procedure of Wine Bottle cone charge, Sec. II, No. 3, step 4, a thru f.
How to Use ----------
Method 1. If electrical cap is used.
1. Place blasting cap in hole in top of explosive. Note: Do not insert
cap until ready to detonate the charge. 2. Place bottom of coke bottle
flush against the target. If target is not flat and horizontal, fasten
bottle to target by any conveneint means, such as by placing tape or string
around target and top of bottle. Bottom of bottle acts as stand-off. Note:
Be sure that base of bottle is flush against target and that there is nothing
between the target and the base of the bottle. 3. Connect leads from blasting
cap to firing circuit.
Method II. If non-electrical cap is
used. 1. Crimp cap around fuse. Note: Be sure there is enough fuse to allow
a safe delay. 2. Follow steps 1, 2 and Notes of Method I. 3. Light fuse
when ready to fire.
Cyndrilical Cavity
shaped charge Sec. II, No. 7
A shaped charge can be made from common
pipe. It will penetrate 1.5 in of steel, producing a hole 1.5 in in diameter.
Materials --------- Ir on or steel
pipe, 2 to 2.5 in. in diameter and 3 to 4 in. long. Metal pipe, .5 to .75
in in diameter and 1.5 in. long, open at both ends. Pipe should be as thin
as possible. Blasting cap Non-metallic rod, .25 in. in diameter Plastic
or castable explosive 2 metal cans of different sizes ------| | stick or
wire | only if castable explosive is used | heat source ------|
Procedure ---------
1. If plastic explosive us used:
A. Place larger pipe on flat surface.
Hand pack and tamp explosive into pipe. Leave approx. .25 in. space at
the top.
B. Place rod in center of explosive.
Enlarge hole in explosive to diameter and length of small pipe.
C. Insert small pipe into hole. Note:
Make sure that there is direct contact between the explosive and the small
pipe. Hand pack if necessary.
D. Make sure that there is .25in. empty
space aboce small pipe. Remove pipe if necessary.
E. Turn large pipe upside down, (the
whole object) and pus rod .5 in. into center of opposite end of explosive
to form a hole for the blasting cap. Note: Do not insert cap until ready
to fire shaped charge.
2. If TNT or other castable explosive
is used:
A. Follow procedure, Sec. II, No. 3,
step 4, Parts A, B, C, including Notes.
B. When all explosive has melted, remove
the inner container and stir the molten explosive until it begins to thicken.
C. Place large pipe of flat surface.
Pour explosive into pipe until it is 1.75 in. from the top.
D. Place small pipe in the center of
large pipe so that it rests on top of exlosive. Holding small pipe in place,
pour explosive around small pipe until explosive is .25 in. from top of
large pipe.
E. Allow explosive to cool. Break crust
that forms on top of the charge during cooling with a wooden stick and
add more explosive. Do this as often as necessary until explosive is .25
in. from top.
F. When explosive has completely hardened,
turn pipe upside down and bore a hole for the blasting cap in the middle
of the top of the charge about .50 in. deep.
How to Use ----------
Method I. If an electrical cap is used.
1. Place blasting cap in hole made
for it. Note: Do not insert cap until ready to use.
2. Place other end of pipe flush against
target. Fasten pipe to target by any convenient means, such as by placing
tape or string around target and on top of pipe. If target is not flat
and horizontal. Note: Be sure that base of pipe is flush against target
and that there is nothing between the charge and the base of the pipe.
3. Connect leads from cap to firing
circuit.
Method II. If non-electrical cap is
used.
1. Crimp cap around fuse. Note: Be
sure that there is enough fuse to allow safe delay.
2. Follow steps 1, 2 and notes of Method
I.
3. Light fuse when ready to fire.
Funnel shaped
charge Sec. II, No. 9
An effective shaped charge can be made
using various commercial funnels. See table for penetration capabilities.
Materials --------- Container (sode
or beer can, etc.), approx. 2.5 in. in diameter x 5 in. long Funnels (glass,
steel or aluminum) 2.5 in. in diameter Wooden rod or stick, .25 in. in
diameter tape blasting cap (electrical or non-electrical) sharp cutting
edge explosive
Procedure ---------
1. Remove the top and bottom from can
and discard.
2. Cut off and throw away the spout
of the funnel(s). Note: When using 3 funnels (see table), place the modified
funnels together as tight and as straight as possible. Tape the funnels
together at the outer ridges.
3. Place the funnels in the modified
can. Tape outer ridges to hold funnels to can.
4. If plastic explosive is used, fill
the can with the explosive using small quantities, and tamp with wooden
rod or stick. Note: If castable explosive is used, refer to step 4 of Sec.
II, No. 3.
5. Cut wodden rod to lengths 3 inches
longer than the standoff length. (see table) Position three of there rods
around the explosive filled can and hold in place with tape. Note: The
position of the rods on the container must conform to the standoff dimensions
to obtain the penetrations given in the table. ________________ _ | | |
| <-|----explosive 3| --| |-- i| - | /\ | - rods (legs) held on with
tape n| - | / \ | - | - | / funnel \ | - - - |/____________\| - - - - -
| - - - - - - - ^ |>standoff Table Funnel Material | No. of funnels | Standoff
(ins.) | Penetration | ------------------------------------------------------------------
| | | | | | glass | 1 | 3.5 | 4 | | | | | | |-----------------------------------------------------------------
| | | | | | steel | 3 | 1 | 2.5 | | | | | | |-----------------------------------------------------------------
| | | | | | aluminum | 3 | 3.5 | 2.5 | | | | | | |-----------------------------------------------------------------
| If only one steel or aluminum funnel is available: | |-----------------------------------------------------------------
| | | | | | steel | 1 | 1 | 1.5 | | | | | | |-----------------------------------------------------------------
| | | | | | aluminum | 1 | 1 | 1.5 | | | | | | |-----------------------------------------------------------------
6. Make a hole for blasting cap in
the center of the explosive with rod or stick. Note: Do not place blasting
cap in place until the funnel shaped charge is ready to use.
How to Use ----------
1. Place blasting cap in the hole in
top of the charge. If non-electric cap is used, be sure cap is crimped
around fuse and fuse is long enough to provide safe delay.
2. Place (tape if necessary) the Funnel
Shaped Charge on the target so that nothing is between the base of charge
and target.
3. If electric cap is used, connect
cap wires to firing circuit. Linear shaped Charge Sec. II, No. 10 This
shaped charge made from construction materials will cut through nearly
3 inches of armor depending opon the liner used. (see table)
Materials --------- Standard structural
angle or pipe (see table) wood or cardboard container hacksaw -----| |
only is pipe is used vise -----| wooden rod, .25 in. in diameter explosive
blasting cap tape Table | Type | material | liner size | Standoff | Penetration|
------------|-----------------|-------------|------------|------------|
| angle | steel | 3x3 legs x | 2 in. | 2.75 in | | | | .25 in web | | |
|-----------|-----------------|-------------|------------|------------|
| angle | aluminum | 2x2 legs x | 5.5 in. | 2.5 in. | | | | 3/16 web |
| | |-----------|-----------------|-------------|------------|------------|
| pipe half | aluminum | 2 diameter | 2 in. | 2 in. | | section | | | |
| |-----------|-----------------|-------------|------------|------------|
|pipe half | copper | 2 diameter | 1 in. | 1.75 in. | |section | | | |
| |-----------|-----------------|-------------|------------|------------|
Procedure --------- Note: These were
the only linear shaped charges of this type that were found to be more
efficient than the ribbon charge.
Ribbon Charge: No standoff; just place
on target.
1. If pipe is used:
A. Place the pipe in the vise and cut
pipe in half lengthwise. Remove the pipe half sections from the vise.
B. Discard one of the pipe half sections,
or save for another charge.
2. Place angle or pipe half section
with open end face down on a flat surface.
3. Make container from any material
available. The container must be as wide as the angle or pipe half section,
twice as high, and as long as the desired cut to be made with the charge.
4. Place container over the liner (angle
or pipe half section) and tape liner to container.
5. If plastic explosive is used, fill
the container with the explosive ising small quantities, and tamp with
wooden rod or stick. Note: If castable explosive is used, refer to step
4 of Sec. II, No. 3.
6. Cut wooden rod to lengths 2 inches
longer than the standoff length (see table). Postition the rods at the
corners of the explosive filled container and hold in place with tape.
Note: The position of the rods on the container must conform to standoff
and penetration dimensions given in the table.
7. Make a hole for blasting cap in
the side od the container .5 in. above the liner and centered with the
wooden rod. Note: Do not place blasting cap inside Linear Shaped Charge
until ready to detonate. How to Use ----------
1. Place blasting cap into hole on
the side of the container. If non-electric cap is used, be sure cap is
crimped around fuse and fuse is long enough.
2. Place (tape if necessary) the LSC
on the target so that nothing is between base of charge and target.
3. If electric cap is used, connect
cap wires to firing circuit.
Soap Dish charges
Sec. II, No. 11
Using common plastic soap dishes, two
special charges can be prepared. One is a miniature claymore mine, and
the other being a miniature Pertoleum Oil/Liquid charge for the destruction
of small P.O.L. storage containers and vehicle gas tanks.
Materials --------- Soap dishes consisting
of two separate halves, the bottom flat half fitting into the to bevelled
half (standard soap dish) Any homemade high explosive blasting cap .25
in. diameter steel ball bearings and epoxy resin (wristrocket ammo) theremite
incediary (Sec. V, No. 20), or other metalized incediary mixture small
alnico 5 horseshoe or double sided adhesive tape, or both Procedure ---------
1. To produce a miniature claymore
mine, follow the steps below.
A. Separate the two halves of the soap
dish.
B. Fill the bottom half with any powerful
homemade explosive.
C. Fill the top half to a depth of
3/4 inch with 1/4 inch diameter steel ball bearings held together with
a light coating of epoxy resin.
D. Insert the bottom half into the
top half and secure in place with tape.
2. To produce a miniature P.O.L. charge,
follow the steps below:
A. Separate the two halves of the soap
dish.
B. Fill 1/2 inch of the bottom half
with a metalized incendiary such as thermite or aluminum granules. C. Fill
the remaining half of the bottom half with any powerful homemade explosvie.
D. Fill 1/2 to the top half with the
same homemade explosive.
E. Insert the bottom half of the soap
dish into the top half and secure in place with tape.
How to Use ----------
1. Claymore mine:
A. Cover the bottom of the bottom half
of the mine with double-sided adhesive tape or attach one horseshoe magnet
to each side of the top half and secure in place with epoxy resin. Both
attachment methods can be combined so the mine can be attached to almost
any surface area.
B. Using a sharp pointed rod, 1/4 inch
in diameter, puncture a hole in the rear center of the bottom half.
C. Insert a detonator into this hole
and attach a fuzing mechanism to the sides of the soap dish and connect
to the detonator.
D. Attach the bottom of the soap dish,
vertically, to any surface facing the target area, within a 45 degree angle
from either side of the center line of the soap dish. For attachment, use
either the tape or magnets, or both if possible.
2. P.O.L. charge:
A. Cover the bottom of the bottom half
of the mine with double sided adhesive tap, or attach one horseshoe magnet
to each side of the top half and secure in place with epoxy resin. Both
attachment methods can be combined so the mine can be easily be attached
to almost any surface area.
B. Using a sharp pointed rod, 1/4 inch
in diameter, puncture a hole in the rear certer of the top half of the
soap dish.
C. Insert the detonator into this hole
and attach a fuzing mechanism to sides of the soap dish and connect to
the detonator.
D. Using magnets, tape, or both, attach
the bottom of the soap dish to any surface containing petroleum products,
i.e., 55 gallon storage drums, rail and truck P.O.L. shipping cars, gas
tanks of vehicles, etc.
Mini-Compound
detonators Sec. II, No. 12
Miniature compound detonators can be
made from empty .22 Magnum sheel casings, a quantity of secondary (booster)
explosive, a smaller quantity of primary explosive, an ignition charge
and a loading press. These powerful miniature detonators are used in the
construction of various type of miniature hand grenades, i.e., cigarette
lighter hand grenade, shotgun shell impact grenade and explosive candles.
Materials --------- Empty .22 magnum
shell casings or copper, brass or aluminum tubing 1/4 inch in diameter,
1 inch long, and closed at one end. A quantity of secondary explosive,
i.e., RDX (Sec. I, No. 15) or (Sec. I, No. 38), PETN (the center filling
of Primacord (detonating cord) A quantity of primary explosive, i.e., mercury
fulminate (Sec. I, No. 24), HMTD (Sec. I, No. 17), acetone peroxide (Sec.
I, No. 28) An ignition charge or either black powder (Sec. I, No. 3) or
small arms propellant A loading press, or materials to construct a loading
press as illustrated
Procedure ---------
1. If a loading press is not available,
construct on as illustrated below: (this is going to be touchy, please
stick with me) 5 feet |--------------------------------------------------------|
_ metal plate for slot | | 6 ins. \ | | <- 1 inch thick wooden barricade
|-------| \ | | _ \ _| | /> slot for lever /- 2x4 __| |__________________||
|/_______________________________ / wooden |_|o|___________________ ________________________________||
lever | | | -| | o--------- | | 2 || | ___peep hole | | | | |-|_/ (safety
glass) | | | _ /1 |-| | _| |_ ___ / _| |_ | |_____| |_|_| |_____| | /-------------^--------------------\
| <- Rope |_____________|____________________| | | | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | <-table | | | detonator | | __|__ |_| |_| weight-> |___|
Notes: 1. Block- wood (10" x 10" x 6" or steel (6" x 6" x 6") with 3/8"
diameter hole 1" deep.
2. 1/4" O.D. hard brass or wood ram
Note: The loading press is provided with a protective barrier and a remote
system of rope and pulley operation to provide operator safety during loading.
Only wood and spark-proof (brass) metals are used near the exlosive. CAUTION:
Making detonators is hazardous business that can be made safe by taking
certain precautions. Operations must be performed slowly and with great
care. Cleanliness is important. Dirt in the explosive or containers will
greatly increase sensitivity to detonation by impact or shock. If possible
the air should be moist. Boil a bucket of water in the room before starting
to work if the air is dry. When inserting and removing the ramrod and when
carrying primary explosives, use tongs or pliers. If possible, uuse only
one hand at a time when handling the primary explosive in the loading process
and wear protective goggles at all times. With the arrangement shown on
the preceeding page, the pressure applied to the exlosive inside the shell
casing will be about 200x the force applied to the end of the lever. That
is, a 20 pound weight pulling at at the handle will compress the explosive
with a press of 4,000 lbs. of pressure per sq. in. This pressure is required
for the best sensitivity of mercury fulminate. A 2.5 gallon bucket of water
weighs about 20 lbs.
3. Light a candle and let two drops
of wax drop into the bottom of each shell casing before using.
4. Allow the wax to cool, then insert
the shell casing into the loading block.
5. Fill the shell casing to a depth
of 1/4 in. with RDX or PETN secondary explosive. Gently insert the ram.
6. Compress the explosive slowly and
evenly by pulling on the rope until the weight leaves the ground. Remove
the ram carefully.
7. Continue the adding and pressing
operation until a column of secondary explosive 5/8 inch high has been
pressed into the 1 inch long shell casing.
8. Add a small quantity of primary
explosive on top of the secondary explosive and gently insert the ram.
9. Continue the adding and pressing
operation until an additional 1/4 inch column of primary explosive has
been pressed on top of the 5/8 inch column of secondary explosive.
10. Gently compress the remaining 1/8
inch of empty space with an igniter of either black powder or smokeless
pistol powder.
11. Seal the top with either tape or
wax paper held in place with a small rubber band until ready to use. Note:
When inserting the detonator into a selected hand grenade, be careful not
to tilt the detonator and let the igniter charge spill out. Instead, place
the grenade over the detonator and lower it until the detonator is sealed
into place, then invert the genade and fill with explosive.
Cigarette Lighter
Hand Grenade Sec. II, No. 13
An effective and powerful miniature
hand grenade can be made from a Zippo brand cigarette lighter, any homemade
explosive and a mini-compound detonator (Sec. II, No. 12). This explosive
device can be used either as a hand grenade or a boobytrap.
Materials --------- Any powerful homemade
explosive, i.e., potassium chlorate/nitrobenzene (Sec. I, No. 32), ammonium
nitrate/nitromethane (Sec. I, No. 34), etc. Mini-Compound detonator (Sec.
II, No. 12) Black powder (Sec. I, No. 3) Zippo cigarette lighter, approx.
2 1/4" length x 1 1/2" Diam., or larger Copper and brass tubing 9/32" diameter
x 12" long hacksaw small mixing bowl epoxy resin Procedure ---------
1. Obtain a zippo lighter with outer
case dimensions of approx. 2 1/4 long x 1 1/2" wide x 1/2" deep. Separate
the inner lighter mechanism from the outer casing and remove all the cotton
wadding.
2. Remove the cotton ignition wick
and convert it into a black powder time fuse by the following steps:
A. Place a couple of tablespoons of
black powder (sec. I, No. 3) into a small mixing bowl and add enough water
until it looks like a heavy oil.
B. The cotton wick is placed in the
oil-like mixture and stirred for 15 minutes so that it becomes saturated
with the black powder mix.
C. The cotton wick is removed and hung
to dry for four hours.
D. This mixture fuse was found to have
a burning rate of 1.3 seconds per inch. Note: Be sure and test burning
time on a similar wick before using. If a new Zippo lighter is used, it
is necessary to use the lighter approx. 25 times before disassembling.
This will make the lighter appear used and will blacken the cotton ignition
wick which will help disguise the black powder time fuse that will be reinserted.
3. Reinsert the cotton wick fuse through
the wick hole and leave enough fuse in the ignition chamber so that it
can easily bepulled from the igniter. Note: Knot the end of the fuse inside
the lighter sothat it won't pull free later when using.
4. Using a hacksaw, cut a one inch
length from a 9/32" diameter piece of copper or brass tubing.
5. Insert this one inch tube over the
wick hole and use a 1/8" layer of epoxy resin or other strong glue to seal
in place.
6. Insert a mini-compound detonator
(Sec. II, No. 12) into the holding tube inside the lighter. Caution: The
mini-compound detonator is a sensitive and extremely powerful detonator
and should be handled carefully at all times.
7. Fill the remaining space to within
1/8" of the bottom with any homemade explosive this manual. Note: The explosive
can be loaded in first, and when ready to use, simply insert the detonator.
When using potassium chlorate or ammonium nitrate for a base explosive,
load the cigarette lighter with either base explosive and insert the detonator.
When ready to use, simply pour in the liquid activator of either nitromethane
or nitrobenzene.
8. After filling to within 1/8" in.
of the bottom with explosive, cut off a 1/8" strip from the original cotton
wadding and insert in the bottom of the lighter to complete the disguise.
How to Use ----------
1. To use as a hand grenade, simply
pull out a length of fuse and ignite with a separate cigarette lighter
or match.
2. To use as a boobytrap, insert the
lighter, with a short fuse, into the target area.
Shotgun shell
impact grenade Sec. II, No. 14
An effective and powerful impact grenade
can be made from a 12 gauge shotgun shell, any homemade high explosive
and a mini-compound detonator (Sec. II, No. 12). This explosive devise
can be used as an impact grenade or as a boobytrap.
Materials --------- Any homemade explosive,
i.e., potassium chlorate/nitrobenzene (Sec. I, No. 32), ammonium nitrate/nitromethane
(Sec. I, No. 34), etc. Mini-compound detonator (Sec. II, NO. 12) 12 gauge
shotgun shell wood dowel or steel bar 11/16" in diameter and any length
beyond 1/2" hacksaw drill w/ 1/4" bit pieces of cloth, 12" x 12" epoxy
resin or strong glue steel ball bearings 3/8" in diameter electrical tape
Procedure ---------
1. Either cut off or open up the forward
end of any 12 gauge shotgun shell and empty out the shot, wadding, spacer
and propellant. Retain the shell casing.
2. In order for the mini-detonator
to be over the center of the primer, a detonator guide cylinder has to
be made from either a piece of bar steel or a wooden dowel in the following
manner:
A. Using a hacksaw, cut a 1/2" length
of 11/16" steel bar or wooden dowel.
B. Drill a 1/4" diameter hole in the
center of the 1/2 long wood or metal cylinder. Note: It is preferred that
a steel cylinder be used in ot to lend more weight to the base of the shell
case.
3. After the guide cylinder is prepared,
it is glued in place in the bottom of the shotshell case. Note: Do not
place any glue on the primer in the base of the shell casing.
4. The mini-compound detonator (Sec.
II, No. 12) is the inserted, open end down, into the guide cylinder and
glued in place. Caution: The mini-compound detonator is a sensitive and
extremely powerful detonator and should be handled carefully at all times.
5. Fill the remaining space in the
shotshell case with any homemade high explosive in this manual. Note: When
using potassium chlorate or ammonium nitrate for a base explosive, load
the shotshell case with either base explosive. When ready to use, simply
pour in the liquid activator of either nitromethane/nitrobenzene.
6. After the top of the shotshell has
been resealed, tape a 3/8" steel ball bearing in place over the center
of the primer in the base of the shell.
7. Cloth streamers (12" x 1/2") are
then taped in place around the shotshell. These streamers lend stability
in flight and insure bottom base impact with the ground.
8. As a further refinement, nails can
be taped around the shotshell case with ntches, spaced 1/4" apart, down
the length of the shell.
How to Use ----------
1. To use as a grenade, simply throw
into the target area.
2. To use as a boobytrap, do not attach
streamers or the ball bearing. Simply insert the shotshell case into the
target area.
Platter Charge
Sec. II, No. 15
An extremely effective directional
charge can be made from a steel pipe cap, any high explosive, and a tin
can. This charge is effective against such targets as transformers, generators,
fuel storage containers and vehicles. It can be fired horizontally or used
as an improvised land mine and fired vertically.
Materials --------- Steel pipe cap
with a diameter between 1" and 24" Tin can or other similar container with
an inside diameter being the same as the steel pipe cap sheet of wood 1"
thick steel pipe cap, (between 1 - 2" in diameter) and a piece of pipe,
(approx. 2" in length drill with 1/4" bit Solid or liquid high explosive,
i.e., nitromethane/ammonium nitrate explosive (Sec. I, No. 34), fertilizer/hydrazine
explosive (Sec. I, No. 36), or nitromethane liquid explosive (Sec. I, No.
35) blasting cap
Procedure ---------
1. Obtain a steel pipe cap. An ideal
diameter would be 6 - 12". However, pipe caps as small as 1" may be used.
2. Locate a coffee can or similar container
with an inside diameter the same as the outside diameter of the pipe cap.
Remove the lid (do not throw away) and empty the contents of the can and
clean it out.
3. Place the pipe cap in the bottom
of the can with the concave side facing the bottom of the can.
4. An exact center priming disk must
be made from a 1" thick piece of wood in the following manner: A. Using
the coffee can lid from step 2 as a template, place it on a sheet of wood
1" thick and mark the outside diameter with a pencil.
B. Using a saw, cut the disk out of
the sheet of wood. After cutting the disk out, drill a 1/4" hole through
the exact center. If this priming disk is to be used as a packing tool
for the solid explosive, center sink the 1/4" center hole to fit the head
of a 1/4" bolt. Set the disk aside for later use.
5. If a solid explosive is being used.
the following constructon technique should be used:
A. Using the center priming disk prepared
from step 4, a uniform packing tool can be prepared by the addition of
a 1/4" nut and bolt, a steel pipe cap and a piece of pipe.
B. Carefully pack an amount of solid
explosive equal to the weight of the pipe cap around and behind the pipe
cap using the packing tool. For example, if the pipe cap weighs five pounds,
use five pounds of solid explosive. Note: For this charge to be effective,
it is necessary to uniformly pack the explosive behind the pipe cap with
no air gaps.
C. After the explosive has been loaded
into the tin can behind the inverted pipe cap, disassemble the packing
tool and place the priming disk over the ompressed explosive. Seal the
inside edges with glue, wax, or tar. The discarded pipe handle and cap
can be used later to form a pipe hand grenade (Sec. II, No. 1) Note: The
wood priming disk prepared in step 4 has three ain uses: as a packing tool
for solid explosive, as a lid to keep the explosve from falling out of
the conainer, and as a template that insures exact rear center priming
of the charge.
D. After the priming disk has been
sealed in place, insert a blasting cap through the center hole and into
the solid explosive to a depth of 3/4". Seal around the cap with glue,
wax or tar.
6. When using a liquid explosive, an
easier construction method may be used:
A. When ready to use, simply pour in
an amount of liquid exlosive equal to the weight of the pipe cap and seal
in place the wood priming disk prepared instep 4.
B. Insert a blasting cap through the
center hole and into the liquid explosive to a depth of 3/4". Seal around
the blasting cap with glue, wax, or tar.
7. If a coffee can was used in the
construction, there should still be sufficient room inside the can for
a fuzing mechanism, i.e., a wrist watch delay timer with battery (Sec.
VI, No. 4), or a small remote control radio reciever. -----------------------------------
| *&*)+(_)(*_&)(_*&)(*&&)(*&*(&() | | *&(@#*_#()
coffee ()&*^)^67^& | | ^&%^$&^$#%^T*T*&%^*&%$&*^%^*&%^
| |---------------------------------| <- false bottom && = bulb
initia.| () () () () |&&| /----------\ | <- batteries in series
w/ XXX = sealant-> |************XXX|c |XXX***********| wrist watch timer
|***************|a |**************| <- wood packing disk |***************|p
|**************| |///////////////| |//////////////| |///////////////| |//////////////|
|///////////////|__|//////////////| |/////////////////////////////////|
|/////////// explosive /////////| |/////////////////////////////////| |//////---------------------\\\\\\|
|//////| pipe cap |\\\\\\| |//////| |\\\\\\| |_____/ \_____| || || ||_______________________________||
----------------------------------- Note: A second disguise can be achieved
by inseting a third disk covering the fizing mechanism, sealing around
the edges of the disk and then pouring coffee into the can until full.
Place the plastic sealing lid over the top of the can to complete the disguise.
How to Use ----------
1. The unique capability of this charge
is that it can be fired through a chain link fence and into its target
without any loss of effectiveness. At close range the platter will penetrate
about one inch of mild steel plate. It is effective at ranges up to 100
feet or more, although at this distance penetration is reduced to about
1/4" of mild steel at best and sighting becomes a problem unless the target
is a very large one.
2. Upon detonation, the platter is
projected forward at tremendous velocity. The air in front of the platter
is compressed and becomes superheated. It is this mass of air, moving at
extremely high velovity, that first penetrates the target. The platter
follows and may indeed strike the target, but research has shown that the
primary destruction effect is created by the compacted high velocity air
column.
SCIMP (Special
Charge Improvised Projectile) charge Sec. II, No. 16
Using materials that are readily available
in its construction, this mine will defeat almost any target that is mad-made,
i.e., tanks, armored cars, buildings, etc. This charge is four times for
effective than any other directional charge, to include shaped and platter
charges. This directional charge utilizes two special techniques to achieve
its effectiveness; one is sandwiching an explosive charge between two steel
plates, and the other involves detonating this charge from all sides at
the same time (periphreal detonation).
Materials --------- oil filter cap
or other similar steel dish No. 6 sheet metal screws, 1" long steel plate,
1/8" thick Solid or liquid high explosive, i.e., fertilizer/nitromethane,
fertilizer/hydrazine liquid explosive, and nitromethane liquid explosive
wood or styrofoam sheets, 1" thick blasting cap coffee can or other similar
container drill with 1/4" bit
Procedure ---------
1. Obtain a concave steel dish, 3"
to 12" in diameter: for example, by removing the center retaining bolt
from any two piece oil filter assy. and using the oil filter cap (an oil
filter from a 1951-53 chevy, with a diameter of 5 1/4" is ideal).
2. Plug the bolt hole in the center
of the cap with wood, rubber, or cork stopper.
3. Using the oil filter cap as a template,
place it on a sheet of steel 1/8" thick and mark the outside diameter with
a pencil.
4. Using a hacksaw, cut the disk out
of the plate.
5. Repear steps 3 and 4, cutting out
two disks from a 1" thick sheet of wood or styrofoam.
6. Take the three disks (one steel
and the other two wood or styrofoam) and glue them together with the steel
disk on one side. Set aside for later use.
7. Locate a coddee can or similar container
with an inside diameter 1/4" to 1/2" larger that the outside diameter of
the filter ca. Remove the lid (do not throw away) and empty and clean the
can.
8. Using the coffee can lid as a template,
repeat steps 3 and 4 on a 1" thick sheet of wood, and after cutting the
disk out, drill a 1/4" hole in the exact center and set aside for later
use.
9. Place the oil can filter cap in
the bottom center of the coffee can and glue in place with the concave
cap facing towards the bottom of the cap. | ____ | | ____________/ \___________
| |/ \| |-------------------------------|
10. If a solid explosive is being used,
the following construction technique should be used:
A. Mark two rings around the inside
of the coffee can; one 3" from the bottom of the can, and the second 5
5/8" from the bottom of the can.
B. Carefully pack the explosive uniformly
around the filter cap until it reaches the 3" mark inside the can. Note:
The 1" thick wood disk prepared from step 8 can be used as a uniform packing
tool by attaching an improvised handle using a piece of pipe, two pipe
caps and a 1/4" nut and bolt.
C. After reaching the 3" mark inside
the can, place the three later disk assy. (prepared in step 6) on top of
the compressed explosive. Center it with the steel disk on the explosive.
D. Carefully pack the explosive between
the inside edge of the can and the edge of the three layer disk assy. until
the explosive level is even with the top of the disk.
E. Carefully pack an additional 1/2"
layer of explosive on top of the last styrofoam or wood disk. This layer
should reach the second ring marked inside the can. Note: Again the wood
disk/pipe packing tool can be used to compress the remaining explosive
on top of the charge.
F. Disassemble the wood disk/pipe packing
tool by removing the center nut and bolt that holds the two together. Save
and use the pipe for a future pipe hand grenade (Sec. II, No. 1).
G. Place the 1" thick wood packing
disk on top of the explosive contained inside the can and seal with glue,
wax or tar.
H. When ready to use, insert a 1/4"
blasting cap through the center hole in the wood disk and into the 1/2"
layer of explosive. Note: The wood disk prepared from step 8 has three
main uses; a packing tool, a lid to prevent the explosive from falling
out of the container, and a template that insures rear center priming of
the charge.
11. When using a liquid explosive,
a slightly different and easier construction method is used:
A. Mark two rings around the inside
of the can; one 5 1/8" from the bottom of the can and the second 6 5/8
from the bottom of the can.
B. Place the top of the three layer
disk assy. at the level of the first ring marked inside the can and secure
in place with four No. 6 sheet metal screws spaced wvery 90 degrees around
the outside of the coffee can and screwed into the center of the center
disk assy. Since the disk assy. is smaller than the inside diameter of
the coffee can, it can be held in place by inserting 1/4" wood dowels between
the can and the assy. When the four supporting screws have been screwed
into place, the wooden dowels can be removed.
C. Place the remaining 1" thick wood
disk, prepared from step 8, at the level of the second ring marked inside
the can and secure in place with four more No. 6 sheet metal screws spaced
every 90 degrees around the outside of the can. Seal the inside edges with
wax, glue or tar.
D. When ready to use, simply pour the
liquid explosive through the center hole until fill. Insert a blasting
cap through the hole and into the 1/2" layer of liquid explosive. Seal
around the hole and blasting cap with glue, wax, or tar.
12. If a coffee can was used in the
construction, there should still be sufficient room inside the can for
a fuzing mechanism, i.e., a watch delay timer with batteries (Sec. IV,
No. 4), or a small remote control radio reciever.
13. After the fuzing mechanism has
been inserted, the original metal lid that was removed and set aside ealier
is now glued inside the plastic sealing lid that comes with most coffee
cans and snapped back in place on top of the can. The whole charge then
resembles an ordinary coffee can. plastic lid | |------------------------------------------|
| *&&&*^%&&*&%^*&^**&^%%^&*%%^*&&%^**&^^%%
| | ()*(*((^*&&%^ coffee *&%$%$*&%&**(&*$ | | (_*(_)*&^&%^**&^(()*__)(*(*&^_*&^(^&%&%^
| |------------------------------------------|<-false bottom ()= batteries
| () () () () |&&| ----\\\\\\\\ |<-batteries in &&=
electric |+__________________+|c |+_----////////___+| series, clothes +=
seaant |+ |a | +| pin delay |+___________________|p |_________________+|
_ |//\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ | |\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\//| | 1/2" explosive |\\/////////////////
|__|////////////////\\| - on top of disc |\\--------------------------------------//|
|\\- -\\| |//--------------------------------------//| <- no space |\\--------------------------------------\\|
between metal screw ***** ***** metal screw |//--------------------------------------//|
|\\@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@\\| <- steel plate |//////////////////////////////////////////|
|//////////////////////////////////////////| |//////////////////////////////////////////|
|\\\\\\ "\" and "/" = explosive //////| |//////////////////////////////////////////|
|//////////////////////////////////////////| | /---\ | | /------------------------------------\
| | | oil cap | | | -------------------------------------- | ============================================
Note: A second disguise can be achieved by inserting a third disk covering
the fuzing mechanism, sealing around the edges of the disk and the pouring
coffee back into the can until full. Place the plastic sealing lid over
the top of the can to complete the disguise.
How to Use ----------
1. The SCIMP charge should be used
when direct access to the target it not possible, i.e., under or beside
a roadway or hanging on a fence looking into the target area.
2. The applications are very similar
to a platter charge with the exception that the SCIMP charge has far greater
penetration ability of hard targets at long distances than does the platter
charge. The SCIMP charge described here can penetrate 1" thick steel at
50 years. Note: The SCIMP charge relies on a super-heated, rod-like projectile
traveling at ultra high velocity to destroy its target.
Typist Note: I, the Mad Cracker, am not going to type every damn picture in the book. If you would like to build a "pipe pistol" I suggest you buy the books. Unless you totally understand the instructions, I would not consider to attempt these without pictures, as they are dangerous enough when done with the pictures.
Pipe Pistol for
9mm Ammunition Sec. III, No. 1
A 9mm pistol can be made from 1/4"
steel, gas or water pipe and fittings. Materials --------- 1/4" nominal
size water pipe, 4-6 inches long with threaded ends 1/4"solid pipe plug
Two (2) steel pipe couplings Metal strap, roughly 1/8" x 1/4" x 5" Two
(2) elastic bands Flat head nail, 6D or 8D (approx. 1/16" in diameter)
Two (2) wood screws #8 wood 8" x5" x 1" drill 1/4" wood or metal rod, approx.
8" long Procedure ---------
1. Carefully inspect pipe and fittings.
A. Make sure that there are NO cracks
or other flaws in the pipe or fittings.
B. Check inside diameter of pipe using
a 9mm cartridge as a gauge. The bullet should closely fit into the pipe
without forcing but the cartridge case SHOULD NOT fit into pipe.
C. Outside diameter of pipe MUST NOT
be less that 1 1/2 times bullet diameter (.536 in; 1.37 cm)
2. Drill a 9/16" diameter hole 3/8"
into one coupling to remove the thread. Note: Drilled section should fit
tightly over smooth section of the pipe.
3. Drill a 25/64" diameter hole 3/4"
into pipe. Use cartridge as a gauge; when cartridge is inserted into the
pipe, the base of the case should be even with the end of the pipe. Thread
coupling tightly onto pipe, drilled end first.
4. Drill a hole in the center of the
pipe plug just large enough for the nail to fit through. Note: THE HOLE
MUST BE CENTERED IN PLUG.
5. Push nail through plug until head
of nail is flush with square end. Cut nail off at other end 1/16" away
from plug. Round off end of nail wih file.
6. Bend metal strap to "U" shape and
drill holes for wood screws. File two small notches at top.
7. Saw or otherwise shape 1" thick
hardwood into stock. |- length must be 2" greater than length of unassembled
pipe -| - | <---2 ins.---> |-------------------------------| - | |-1
in.-|------------------ | | 1in. | / | | 6 | / --------- - i | / ----------------------------/
n | / / s | / <-2 in. -> / | / / | / / | / / | / / - ----------------
8. Drll a 9/16" diameter hole through
the stock. The center of the hole should be approx. 1/2" from the top.
9. Slide the pipe through this hole
and attach front coupling. Note: If 9/16" drill is not available, cut a
"V" groove in the top of the stock and tape pipe securely in place.
10. Position metal strap on stock so
that top will hit the head of the nail. Attach to stock with wood screws
on each side.
11. String elastic bands from front
coupling to notch on each side of the strap.
SAFETY CHECK- TEST FIRE PISTOL BEFORE
HAND FIRING
1. Locate a barrier such as a stone
wall or large tree which you can stand behid in case the pistol ruptures
when fired.
2. Mount pistol solidly to a table
or other rigid support at least ten feet in front of the barrier.
3. Attach a cord to the firing strap
on the pistol.
4. Holing the other end of the cord,
go behind the barrier.
5. Pull cord so that the firing strap
is held back.
6. Release the cord to fire the pistol.
(If pistol does not fire, shorten the elastic bands or increase their number)
Note: Fire at least five rounds behind the barrier and then re-inspect
the pistol before you attempt to hand fire it.
How to Operate Pistol ---------------------
1. To load:
A. Remove plug from rear coupling.
B. Place cartridge into pipe.
C. Replace plug.
2. To Fire:
A. Pull strap back and hold with thumb
until ready.
B. Release strap.
3. To remove shell case:
A. Remove plug from rear coupling.
B. Insert 1/4" diameter steel or wooden
rod into front of pistol and push shell case out.
Shotgun (12 gauge)
Sec. III, No. 2
A 12 gauge shotgun can be made from
1/4" water or gas pipe and fittings.
Materials --------- Wood 2" x 4" x
32" 3/4" nominal size water or gas pipe 20" to 30" long threaded on one
end 3/4" steel coupling solid 3/4" pipe plug metal strap (1/4" x 1/16"
x 4") twine, heavy, approx. 100 yards 3 wood screws and screwdriver flat
head nail 6D or 8D hand drill saw or knife file shellac or lacquer elastic
bands
Procedure ---------
1. Careffully inspect pipe and fittings
A. Make sure there are no cracks or
other flaws.
B. Check inside diameter of pipe. A
12-gauge shot shell should fit into the pipe, but the brass rim should
not.
C. Outside diameter of pipe must be
at least 1 in.
2. Cut stock from wood using a saw
or knife. (excuse the shitty drawing) | <- 32 ins. approx. -> | |--1
in. | |-> 13.5 in. <-|______________________________________ _ | ___________________________/____________________________________|_||2
in \->/__________________________/ --- - 4| | ________--- |-| i| | ________-------
2 in. n| |_____________________---------------- -
3. Cut a 3/8" deep "V" groove in the
top of the stock.
4. Turn coupling onto pipe until tight.
5. Coat pipe and "V" groove of stock
with shellac or lacquer and, while it is still wet, place pipe in "V" groove
and wrap pipe and stock together using two heavy layers of twine. Coat
twine with shellac or lacquer after each layer.
6. Drill a hole through the center
of pipe plug large enough for nail to pass through.
7. File threaded end of plug flat.
8. Push nail through plug and cut off
flat 1/32" past the plug.
9. Screw plug into coupling.
10. Bend 4" metal strap into "L" shape
and drill hole for wood screw. Notch metal strap on the long side 1/2"
from the bend.
11. Position metal strap on stock so
that top will hit the head of the nail. Attach to stock with wood screw.
12. Place screw in each side of stock
about 4" in front of metal strap. Pass elastic bands through notch in metal
strap and attach to screw on each side of the stock.
SAFETY CHECK- TEST FIRE SHOTGUN BEFORE
HAND FIRING
1. Locate a barrier such as a stone
wall or large tree which you can stand behind in case the weapon explodes
when fired.
2. Mount shotgun rigidly to a table
or other support at least ten feet in front of the barrier.
3. Attach a long cord to the firing
strap on the shotgun.
4. Holding the other end of the cord,
go behind the barrier.
5. Pull the cord so that the firing
strap is held back.
6. Release the cord to fire the shotgun.
(if shotgun does not fire, shorten the elastic bands or increase their
numbers.) Note: Fire at least five rounds from behind the barrier and then
re-inspect the shotgun before you attempt to shoulder fire it.
How to Operate --------------
1. To load:
A. Take plug out of coupling..
B. Put shotgun shell into pipe.
C. Screw plug hand tight into coupling.
2. To fire:
A. Pull strap back and hold with thumb.
B. Release strap.
3. To unload:
A. Take plug out of coupling.
B. Shake out used cartridge.
Shotshell dispersion
control Sec. III, No. 4
When desired, shotshell can be modified
to reduce shot dispersion.
Materials --------- Shotshell screwdriver
or knife Any of the following fillers: crushed rice rice flour dry bread
crumbs fine dry sawdust
Procedure ---------
1. Carefully remove crimp from shotshell
using a screwdriver or knife. Note: If cartrige is of roll crimp type,
remove top wad.
2. Pour shot from shell.
3. Replace one layer of shot in the
cartridge. pour in filler material to fill the space between the shot.
4. Repeat step 3 until all shot has
been replaced.
5. Replace top wad (if applicable)
and re-fold crimp.
6. Roll shell on flat surface to smooth
out crimp and restore roundness.
7. Seal end of case with wax. (from
lit candle)
How to Use ----------
1. This round is loaded and fired in
the same manner as a standard shotshell. The shot spread will be about
2/3 that of a standard round.
Carbine (7.62
mm; .308 Winchester) Sec. III, No. 4
A rifle can be made from water or gas
pipe and fittings. Standard cartridges are used for ammunition. Materials
--------- wood approx. 2 in. x 4 in. x 30 in. 1/4 in. nominal size iron
water or gas pipe 20 in. long threaded at one end. 3/8 in. to 1/4 in. reducer
3/8 in. x 1 1/2" threaded pipe 3/8" pipe coupling metal strap approx. 1/2
in. x 1/16 in. x 4 in. twine, heavy, approx. 100 yards 3 wood screws and
screwdriver flat head nail about 1 in. long hand drill saw or knife file
pipe wrench shellac or lacquer elastic bands solid 3/8 in. pipe plug
Procedure ---------
1. Inspect pipe and fittings carefully.
A. Make sure there are no cracks or
flaws.
B. Check inside diameter of pipe. A
7.62 mm projectile should fit 3/8" into pipe.
2. Cut stock from wood using saw or
knife. Dimensions: 30" long 4" high at butt end 15" section from butt to
center of rifle 1" below original taper 1 1/2" wide throughout 2" high
at tapered end
3. Cut a 1/4" deep "V" groove in top
of the stock.
4. Fabricate rifle barrel from pipe.
A. File or drill inside diameter of
threaded end of 20 in. pipe for about 1/4" so neck of cartridge case will
fit in.
B. Screw reducer onto threaded pipe
using pipe wrench.
C. Screw short threaded pipe into reducer.
D. Turn 3/8 pipe coupling onto threaded
pipe using pipe wrench. All fittings should be as tight as possible. Do
not split fittings.
5. Coat pipe and "V" groove of stock
with shellac or lacquer. While still wet, place pipe in "V" groove and
wrap pipe and stock together using two layers of twine. Coat twine with
shellac or lacquer after each layer.
6. Drill a hole through center of pipe
plug large enough for nail to pass through.
7. File threaded end of plug flat.
8. Push nail through plug and cut off
rounded 1/32 in. past the plug.
9. Screw plug into coupling.
10. Bend 4 in. metal strap into "L"
shape and drill hole for wood screw. Notch metal strap on the long side
1/2" from bend.
11. Position metal strap on stock so
that top will hit the head of the nail. Attach to stock with wood screw.
12. Place screw in each side of stock
about 4 in. in front of metal strap. Pass elastic bands through notch in
metal strap and attach to screw on each side of the stock.
SAFETY CHECK- TEST FIRE RIFLE BEFORE
HAND FIRING
Follow all notes and steps from Sec.
III, No. 2.
How to Operate --------------
Follow all steps from Sec. III, No.
2. Including loading, firing, and unloading.
Reusable primer
Sec. III, No. 5
A method of making a previously fired
primer reusable.
Materials --------- used cartridge
case 2 long nails having approx. the same diameter as the inside of the
primer pocket "Strike - Anywhere" matches: 2 or 3 needed for each primer
vise hammer knife or other sharp edged instrument
Procedure ---------
1. File one nail to a needle point
so that it is small enough to fit through hole in primer pocket.
2. Place cartridge and nail between
jaws of vise.
3. Remove anvil from primer cup.
4. File down point of second nail until
tip is flat.
5. Remove indentations from face of
primer cup with hammer and flattened nail.
6. Cut off tips of the heads of "strike
anywhere" matches using knife. Carefully crush the match tips on dry surface
with wooden match stick until the mixture is the consistency of sugar.
Note: Do not crush more that 3 match tips at a time or the mixture may
explode.
7. Pour mixture into primer cup. Compress
mixture with wooden match stick until primer cup is fully packed.
8. Place anvil in primer pocket with
legs down.
9. Place cup in pocket with mixture
facing downward.
10. Place cartridge case and primer
cup between vise jaws, and press slowly until primer is seated into bottom
of pocket. The primer is now ready for use.
Pipe Pistol for
.45 ammunition Sec. III, No. 6
A .45 caliber pistol can be made from
3/8 in. nominal diameter steel gas or water pipe and fittings. Lethal range
is about 15 yards.
Materials --------- Steel pipe, 3/8
in. in nominal diameter and 6 in. long with threaded ends 2 threaded couplings
to fit pipe solid pipe plug to fit pipe coupling hard wood, 8.5 in. x 6.5
in. x 1 in. tape or string flat head nail, approx. 1/16" in diameter 2
wood screws, approx. 1/16" in diameter metal strap, 5 in. x 1/4 in. x 1/8
in. bolt, 4 in. long, with nut (optional) elastic bands drills, one 1/16
in. in diameter and one the same as the bolt (optional) rod, 1/4" in diameter
and 8 in. long saw or knife
Procedure ---------
1. Carefully inspect pipe and fittings.
A. Make sure that there are no cracks
or flaws in the pipe and fittings.
B. Check inside diameter of pipe using
.45 caliber cartridge as a gauge. The cartridge should fit into the pipe
snugly, but without forcing.
C. Outside diameter of pipe MUST NOT
BE less that 1 1/2 times the bullet diameter.
2. Follow procedure of Section III,
No. 1, steps 4, 5 and 6.
3. Cut stock from wood using saw or
knife. |<- 6 ins. ->| --- |--------------------------------------| 1.5|
| ---\ --- in_|_ |_________________ \ | | \ | | <- 2 ins. -> |____________
\ | 5 \ \ | i |<- 1.5 in->| \ \ | n \ \ | s \ \ | \ \ | \ \ | \______________\
--- |<- 8.5 ins. ->|
4. Cut a 3/8 in. "V" groove in the
top of the stock.
5. Screw couplings into pipe. Screw
plug into coupling.
6. Securely attach pipe to stock using
string or tape.
7. Follow procedures of Sec. III, No.
1, steps 10 and 11.
8. (optional) Bend bolt for trigger.
Drill hole in stock and place bolt in hole so strap will be anchored by
bolt when pulled back. If bolt is not available, use strap as trigger by
pulling back and releasing.
9. Follow safety check, Sec. III, No.
1.
How to Use ----------
1. To load:
A. Remove plug from rear coupling.
B. Wrap string or elastic band around
extractor groove so case will seat into barrel securely.
C. Place cartridge into pipe.
D. Replace plug.
2. To fire:
A. Pull metal strap back and anchor
in trigger.
B. Pull trigger when ready to fire.
C. If bolt is not used, pull strap
back and release.
3. To remove spent cartridge:
A. Remove plug from rear coupling.
B. Insert rod into front of pistol
and push cartridge case out.
Match gun Sec.
III, No. 7
An improvised weapon using safety matches
as the propellant and a metal object as the projectile. Lethal reange is
about 40 yards.
Materials --------- Metal pipe, 24
in. long and 3/8 in. in diameter (nominal size) or its equivalent, threaded
on one end end cap to fit pipe safety matches- 3 books of 20 matches each
wood- 28 in. x 4 in. x 1 in. toy caps OR safety fuse OR "strike anywhere"
matches (2) electrical tape or string metal strap about 4 in. x 1/4 in.
x 3/16 in. 2 rags, about 1 in. x 12 in. and 1 in. x 3 in. wood screws elastic
bands metal object (steel rod, bolt with head cut off, etc.) approx. 7/16
in. in diameter, and 7/16 in. long if iron or stell, 1 1/4 in. long if
aluminum, 5/16 in. long if lead metal disk 1 in. in diameter and 1/16 in.
thick (quarter?) bolt, 3/32 in. or smaller in diameter and nut to fit saw
or knife
Procedure ---------
1. Carefully inspect pipe and fittings.
Be sure that there are no cracks or other flaws.
2. Drill a small hole in center of
end cap. If safety fuse is used, be sure it will pass through this hole.
3. Cut stock from wood using saw or
knife. Dimensions: recess ________________ __/_|_\______| ___- <- taper
4 in. at butt (high) butt->| _____------- 1 in. thick ------------- 1/2
in. at tapered end 28 in. long 14 in. recessed
4. Cut a 3/8 in. deep "V" groove in
top of stock.
5. Screw end cap onto pipe until tight.
6. Attach pipe to stock with string
or tape.
7. Bend metal strap into "L" shape
and drill holes for wood screw. Notch metal strap on long side 1/2 in.
from bend.
8. Position metal strap on stock so
that the top will hit the center of hole drilled in end cap.
9. Attach metal disk to strap with
nut and bolt. This will deflect blast from hole in end cap when gun is
fired. Be sure that head of bolt is centered on hole in end cap.
10. Attach strap to stock with wood
screws.
11. Place screw on each side of stock
about 4 in. in front of metal strap. Pass elastic bands through notch in
metal strap and attach to screw on each side of stock.
How to Use ----------
A. When toy caps are used:
1. Cut off match heads from 3 books
of matches with knife. Pour match heads into pipe.
2. Fold one end of 1 in. x 12 in. rag
3 times so that it becomes a 1 in. square of 3 thicknesses. Place rag into
pipe to cover match heads.
3. Place metal object into pipe. Place
1 in. x 3 in. rag into pipe to cover projectile. Tamp firmly WITH CAUTION.
4. Place toy caps over small hole in
end cap. Be sure metal strap will hit caps when it is released. Note: It
may be necessary to tape toy caps to end cap.
5 When ready to fire, pull strap back
and release.
B. When "Strike-Anywhere" matches are
used:
1. Follow steps 1-3 in A.
2. Carefully cut off tips of heads
of 2 "strike-anywhere" matches with knife.
3. Place one tip in hole in end cap.
Push in with wooden end of match stick.
4. Place second match tip on a piece
of tap. Place tape so match tip is directly over hole in end cap.
5. When ready to fire, pull metal strap
back and release.
C. When safety fuse is available (recommended
for booby traps)
1. Remove end cap from pipe. Knot one
end of safety fuse. Thread safety fuse through hole in end cap so that
knot is on inside of end cap.
2. Follow steps 1-3 in A.
3. Tie several matches to safety fuse
outside end cap. Note: Bare end of safety fuse should be inside match head
cluster.
4. Wrap match covers around matches
and tie. Striker should be in contact with match bands.
5. Replace end cap on pipe.
6. When ready to fire, pull match cover
off with strong, firm, quick motion. Note: Follow safety check from Sec.
III, No. 1.
Rifle Cartridge
Sec. III, No. 8
A method of making a previously fired
rifle cartridges reusable. Note: See Sec. III, No. 5 for reusable primer
Materials --------- Emppty rifle cartridge,
be sure it still fits inside gun threaded bolt that fits into neck of cartridge
at least 1 1/4 in. long safety or strike anywhere matches (58 needed for
7.62 mm cartridge) rag wad (about 3/4 in. square for 7.62 mm cartridge)
knife saw
Procedure ---------
1. Remove coating on head of matches
by scaping match sticks with sharp edge. CAUTION: If wooden "strike-anywhere"
matches are used, cut off the tips first. Discard tips or use for Reusable
Primer, Sec. III, No. 5.
2. Fill previously primed cartridge
case with match head coatings up to its neck. Pack evenly and tightly with
match stick. Note: remove head of match stick before packing. In all packing
operations, stand off to the side and pack gently. Do not hammer.
3. Place rag wad in neck of case. Pack
with match stick from which head was removed.
4. Saw off head end of bolt so remainder
is approx. the length of standard bullet.
5. Place bolt in cartridge case so
that it sticks out about the same length as the original bullet. Note:
If bolt does not fit snugly, force paper or match sticks between bolt and
case, or wrap tape around bolt before inserting in case.
Pipe pistol for
.38 caliber ammunition Sec. III, No. 9
A .38 caliber pistol can be made from
1/4 in. nominal diameter steel gas or water pipe and fittings. Lethal range
is approx. 33 yards.
Materials --------- Steel pipe, 1/4
in. nominal diameter and 6 in. long with threaded ends (nipple) solid pipe
plug, 1/4 in. nominal diameter 2 steel pipe couplings, 1/4 in. nominal
diameter metal strap, approx. 1/8 in. x 1/4 in. x 5 in. elastic bands flat
head nail- 6D or 8D, approx. 1/16 in. in diameter 2 wood screws, #8 hard
wood, 8 in. x 5 in. x 1 in. drill wood or metal rod, 1/4 in. diameter and
8 in. long saw or knife
Procedure ---------
1. Carefully inspect pipe and fittings.
A. Make sure there are no cracks or
other flaws.
B. Check inside diameter of pipe using
a .38 cartridge as a gauge. The bullet should fit closely into the pipe
without forcing, but then the cartridge case should not fit into the pipe.
C. Outside diameter of the pipe must
NOT be less that 1 1/2 times the bullet diameter.
2. Drill a 35/64 in. diameter hole
3/4 in. into one coupling to remove the thread. Drilled section should
fit tightly over smooth section of pipe.
3. Drill a 25/64 in. diameter hole
1 1/8 in. into pipe. Use cartridge as a gauge; when a cartridge is inserted
into the pipe, the shoulder of the case should butt against the end of
the pipe. Thread coupling tightly onto pipe.
4. Follow procedures of Sec. III, No.
1, steps 4-11. 5. Follow safety check, Sec. III, No. 1.
How to Use ---------- Follow procedures
of How to Operate Pistol, Sec. III, No. 1, steps 1, 2 and 3.
Pipe Pistol for
.22 caliber Ammunition (long or short) Sec. III, No. 10
A .22 cal. pistol can be made from
1/8 in. nominal diameter extra heavy, steel gas or water pipe and fittings.
Lethal range is about 33 yards.
Materials --------- steel pipe, extra
heavy, 1/8 in. nominal diameter and 6 in. long with threaded ends (nipple)
solid pipe plug, 1/8 in. nominal diameter 2 steel pipe couplings, 1/8 in.
x 1/4 in. x 5 in. elastic bands flat head nail- 6D or 8D approx. 1/16 in.
diameter 2 wood screws, #8 hardwood, 8 in. x 5 in. x 1 in. drill wood or
metal rod saw or knife
Procedure ---------
1. Carefully inspect pipe and fittings.
A. Make sure that there are NO cracks
or other flaws in the pipe or fittings.
B. Check inside diameter of pipe using
a .22 caliber cartridge, long or short, as a gauge. The bullet should fit
closely into the pipe without forcing, but the cartridge case should NOT
fit into the pipe.
C. Outside diameter of pipe MUST NOT
BE less than 1 1/2 times the bullet diameter.
2. Drill a 15/64 in. diameter hole
9/16 in. deep in the pipe for long cartridge. (If short cartridge is used,
drill hole 3/8 in. deep). When a cartridge is inserted into the pipe, the
shoulder of the case should butt against the end of the pipe.
3. Screw the coupling onto the pipe.
Cut coupling length to allow pipe plug to thread in pipe flush against
the cartridge case.
4. Drill a hole off center of the pipe
plug just large enough for the nail to fit through. Note: Drilled hole
MUST BE OFF CENTER in plug. (Centered, but low)
5. Push nail through pipe plug until
head of nail is flush with square end. Cut nail off at other end 1/16 in.
away from plug. Round off end with file.
6. Follow procedures of Sec. III, No.
1, steps 6-11.
7. Follow safety check, Sec. III, No.
1.
How to Use ---------- Follow procedures
of How to Use, Sec. III, No. 1, steps 1, 2 and 3.
Low Signature
System Sec. III, No. 11
Low signature systems (silencers) for
improvised small arms weapons (Sec. III) can be made from steel gas or
water pipe and fittings.
Materials --------- grenade container
(approx. 2.75 in. in diameter, 5 in. long) steel pipe nipple, 6 in. long-
See table 1 for diameter 2 steel pipe couplings- See table 2 for dimensions
cotton cloth- See table 2 for dimensions drill absorbent cotton
Procedure ---------
1. Drill hole in grenade container
at both ends to fit outside diameter of pipe nipple. (See table 1)
2. Drill four (4) rows of holes in
pipe nipple. use table 1 for diameter and location of hole.
Table I. Low signature system dimensions
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Holes Four (coupling) per rows A B C D row total -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
.45 cal. 3/8 1/4 3/8 3/8 12 48 .38 cal. 3/8 1/4 1/4 1/4 12 48 9 MM 3/8
1/4 1/4 1/4 12 48 7.62 MM 3/8 1/4 1/4 1/4 12 48 .22 cal 1/4 5/32 1/8* 1/8
14 50 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
*- extra heavy pipe All dimensions in inches
3. Thread on of the pipe couplings
on the drilled pipe nipple.
4. Cut coupling length to allow barrel
of weapon to thread filly into low signature system. Barrel should butt
against end of the drilled pipe nipple.
5. Separate the top half of the grenade
container from the bottom half.
6. Insert the pipe nipple in the drilled
hole at the base of the bottom half of container. Pack the absorbent cotton
inside the container and around the pipe nipple.
7. Pack the absorbent cotton in top
half of grenade container leaving hole in center. Assend container to the
bottom half.
8. Thread the other coupling onto the
pipe nipple. Note: The longer container and pipe nipple, with saw "A" and
"B" dimensions as those given, will further reduce the signature of the
system.
How to Use ----------
1. Thread the low signature system
on the selected weapon securely.
2. Place the proper cotton wad size
into the muzzle end of the system.
Table II. Cotton wadding- Sizes ---------------------------------
weapon cotton wad size --------------------------------- .45 1 1/2 in.
x 6 in. .38 1 x 4 in. 9 mm 1 x 4 in. 7.62 mm 1 x 4 in. .22 not needed
3. Load weapon.
4. Weapon is now ready to use.
Cherry Bomb Flechette
gun Sec. III, No. 14
Typist note: In the Black book III,
the .22 pistol is done again. Since the two are almost identical and therefore,
the second one has not be typed and presented here. That is the reason
for this section being No. 14, instead of No. 13. A highly effective, hand
held shotgun can be made from 3/4 in. water pipe and the projectiles are
homemade flechettes (steel darts) made from box nails. This shotgun uses
cherry bombs as a source of propellant and can achieve muzzle velocities
as high as 1300 feet per second. The effective range is appox. 50 yards.
Materials --------- 3/4 in. diameter
water pipe, 12 inches long 3/4 in. pipe coupler and pipe plug box nails
between 1 in. and 1 1/2 in. long short piece of 3/4 in. water pipe, approx
2 in. long rubber from inner tube cork from wine bottle plaster of paris
hammer and drill with 1/8 in. bit cherry bombs or homemade flash powder
Procedure ---------
1. Flechette rounds can be made in
the following manner:
A. Flatten the heads of box nails with
a hammer.
B. Pour plaster of paris into a mold
made from a short section of 3/4 in. water pipe, to a depth of 3/8 in.
C. Insert the nails, fins down, into
this mold and allow the plaster of paris to harden. (approx. 20 minutes)
D. Push the flechette round out of
the mold and set aside for later use.
2. For every flechette round that is
prepared, a gas seal spacer has to also be prepared in the following manner:
A. Using the short section of 3/4 in.
water pipe as a die, sharpen the edges with a file and hammer out circular
pieces from a rubber inner tube.
B. Using a razor blade, cut a 3/4 in.
diameter wine bottle cord into 1/2 in. sections.
C. Attach the rubber gas seal to the
cork spacer with a thumb tack.
3. The shotgun may be prepared in the
following manner:
A. Drill a 1/8 in. diameter hole through
the center of a 3/4 in. pipe plug, then screw the pipe plug into a 3/4
in. pipe coupler.
B. Screw this pipe coupler assy. onto
one end of a 12 inch long piece of 3/4 in. water pipe.
How To Use ----------
1. Unscrew the pipe coupler assy. from
the end of the pipe.
2. Insert the flechette round into
the pipe.
3. Insert the gas seal spacer assy.
behind the flechette round.
4. Insert a cherry bomb into the pipe
coupler assy. with the fuse protruding from the rear of the pipe plug.
5. Screw the coupling assy. onto the
pipe and ignite the fuse. Note: Gloves should be worn if this weapon is
to be hand fired. With sufficient practice, it can be fired, broken down,
reloaded and fired again in a reasonably short period of time. A second
application is to fire it electrically. By using an electric bulb initiator
(Sec. IV, No. 1) and filling the bulb with the contents of a cherry bomb,
this weapon can be used as an effective booby trap to cover a trail or
other type of passageway. It can still be hand fired by means of a hand
held battery pack and switch arrangment. If cherry bombs are not available,
the following flash powders can be substituted: 1. 4 parts by weight of
potassium perchlorate 1 part by weight of antimony sulfide 1 part by weight
aluminum powder 2. 3 parts by weight of potassium permanganate 2 parts
by weight of aluminum powder 3. 4 parts by weight of potassium chlorate
1 part by weight of sulfur 1 part by weight of aluminum powder The fist
mixture is standard cherry bomb powder and should be used whenever possible.
The second mixture is an excellent substitute for the first and is relatively
safe to handle. The third mixture is extremely shock sensitive and should
only be used as a last resort. To use these mixtures, separately pulverize
each ingredient into a fine powder. Add these powder ingredients to a canning
jar or other similar container with a tight fitting lid. Mix thoroughly
by gently tumbling the container between the hands of a period of five
minutes. Add one gram (approx. 1 teaspoon) to an electric bulb initiator
when ready to use.
Recoilless launcher
Sec. IV, No. 1
A dual directional scrap fragment launcher
which can be placed to cover the path of advancing troops.
Materials --------- Iron water pipe
approx. 4 ft. long and 4 in. in diameter black powder (commercial) or salvaged
artillery propellant (about 1/2 lb.) safety or improvised fuse (Sec. VI,
No. 7) or iomprovised electrical igniter (Sec. IV, No. 2) stones and/or
metal scrap approx 1/2 in. in diameter- about 1 lb. 4 rags fro wadding-
each about 20 in. x 20 in. wire paper or rag Note: Be sure pipe has no
cracks or flaws
Procedure ---------
1. Place propellant and igniter in
paper or rag and tir with string so contents cannot fall out.
2. Insert packaged propellant and igniter
in center of pipe. Pull string leads out one end of pipe.
3. Stuff a rag wad into each end of
pipe and lightly tamp using a flat end stick.
4. Insert stones and/or scrap metal
into each end of pipe. Be sure the same weight of material is used on each
side.
5. Insert a rag wad into each end of
the pipe and pack tightly as before.
How to Use ----------
1. Place scrap mine in a tree or pointed
in the path of the enemy. Attach igniter lead to the firing circuit. The
recoilless launcher is ready to fire.
2. If safety or improvised fuse is
used instead of the detonator, place the fuse into thepackaged propellant
through a hole drilled in the center of the pipe. Light free end of fuse
when ready to fire. Allow for normal delay time. Caution: Scrap will be
ejected from both ends of the pipe.
Shotgun grenade
launcher Sec. IV, No. 2
This device can be usedto launch a
hand grenade to a distance of 160 yards or more, using a standard 12 gauge
shotgun.
Materials --------- Grenade (Improvised
pipe grenade, Sec. II, No. 1, may be used) 12 gauge shotgun 12 gauge shotgun
shells two washers, (brass, steel, iron, etc.), having outside diameter
of 5/8 in. rubber disk 3/4 in. in diameterand 1/4 in. thick (leather, neoprene,
etc.) can be used a 30 in. long piece of hard wood (maple, oak, etc.) approx.
5/8 in. in diameter- be sure it will slide down barrel easily tin can (grenade
and safety lever must fit into can) two wooden blocks about 2 in. square
and 1 1/2 in. thick one wood screw about 1 in. long two nails about 2 in.
long 12 gauge wads, tissue paper, or cotton adhesive tape, string, or wire
drill
Procedure ---------
1. Punch hole in center of rubber disk
large enough for screw to pass through.
2. Make push rod as shown (I hate this):
|+|::|+|------------------------- =|+| |+|------------------------- =|+|
|+|------------------------- |+|::|+|------------------------- where: "="
is screw head ":" (space between) is rebber disk "|+|" is a washer "|-|"
is a wooden stick Note: Gun barrel is slightly less than 3/4 in. in diameter.
If rubber disk does not fit in barrel, file or trim it very slightly. It
should fit tightly.
3. Drill a hole through the center
of one wooden block of such size that the push rod will fit tightly. Whittle
a depression around the hole on one side approx. 1/8 in. and large enough
for the grenade to rest in.
4. Place the base of the grenade in
the wooden block. Securely fasten grenade to block by wrapping tape (or
wire) around entire grenade and block. Note: Be sure that the tape or wire
does not cover hole in block or interfere with the operation of the grenade
or safety lever.
5. Drill hole through the center of
the second wooden block, so that it will just slide over the outside of
the gun barrel.
6. Drill a hole in the center of the
bottom of the tin can the same size as the hole in the block.
7. Attach can to block as shown: (this
is getting on my nerves) -----------------------------------------------|
______| \ | | ++|++++++|+ | | | | | | | | ++|++++++|+ / | | |______| |
------------------------------------------------ This diamgram (hmpf!)
represents the can, a wood block at the bottom, and nails holding the block
on (they are to be bent over).
8. Slide the can and block onto the
barrel until muzzle passes the can's open end. Wrap a small piece of tape
around the barrel an inch or two from the end. Tightly wrapped string may
be used instead of tape. Force the can and wooden block forward against
the tape so that they are securely held in place. Wrap tape around the
barrel behind the can. Caution: Be sure that the can is securely fastened
to the gun barrel. If the can should become looses and slip down the barrel
after the launcher is assembled, the grenade will explode aftr the egular
delay time.
9. Remove crimp from a 12 gauge shotgun
shell with pen knife. Open cartridge. Pour shot from shell. Remove wads
and plastic liner, if present.
10. Empty the propellant onto a piece
of paper. Using a knife, divide the propellant in half. Replace half of
the propellant into the cartridge case.
11. Replace the 12 gauge cardboard
wads into cartridge case. Note: If wads are not available, stuff tissue
paper or cotton into the cartridge case. Pack tighly.
How to Use ----------
Method I- when ordinary grenade is
used:
1. Load cartridge into gun.
2. Push end of push-rod without the
rubber disk into hole in wooden block fastened to grenade.
3. Slowly push rod into barrel until
it rests against the cartridge case and grenade is in can. If the grenade
is not in the can, remove rod and cut to proper size. Push rod back into
barrel.
4. With can holding safety lever of
grenade in place, carefully remove safety pin. Caution: Be sure that the
sides of the can restrain the grenade safety lever. If the safety lever
should be released for any reason, the grrenade will explode after regular
delay time.
5. To fire grenade launcher, rest gun
in ground at angle determined by range desired. A 45 degree andgle should
give about 160 yards.
Method II- when improvised pipe grenade
is used: An improvised pipe grenade (Sec. II, No. 1) may be launched in
a similar manner. No tin can is needed.
1. Fasten the grenade to the block
as shown above with the fuse hole at the end opposite the block. 2. Push
end of push-rod into hole in wooden block fastened to grenade.
3. Push rod into barrel until it rests
against cartridge case.
4. Load cartrige in gun.
5. Follow step 5 of method I.
6. Using a fuse with at least a 10
second delay, light the fuse before firing.
7. Fire when the fuse burns to 1/2
its original length.
Grenade Launcher
(57 mm cardboard container) Sec. IV, No. 3
An improvised method of launching a
standard grenade 150 yards or an improvised grenade 90 yards using a discarded
cardboard ammunition container.
Materials --------- Heavy cardboard
container with inside diameter of 2 1/2 to 3 in. and at least 12 in. long-
ammunition container is suitable black poswder- 8 grams (124 grams) or
less safety or improvised fuse (Sec. VI, No. 7) grenade or (improvised
grenade, Sec. II, No. 1) rag, approx. 20 in. x 24 in. paper Caution: 8
grams of black powder yield the maximum ranges. Do not use more than this
amount. See improvised scale, Sec. VII, No. 8, for measuring.
Procedure ---------
Method I- If standard grenade is used:
1. Discard top of container. Make small
hole in bottom.
2. Place black powder in paper. Tie
end with string so contents cannot fall out. Place package in container.
3. Insert rag wadding into container.
Pack tightly with CAUTION.
4. Measuring off a length of fuse that
will give the desired delay. Thread this through hole in bottom of container
so tat it renetrates into the black powder package. Note: If improvised
fuse is used, be sure fuse fits loosely through hole in bottom of container.
5. Hold grenade safety lever and carefully
withdraw safety pin from grenade. Insert grenade into container, lever
end first. CAUTION: If grenade safety lever should be released for any
reason, grenade will explode after normal delay time.
6. Bury container about 6 in. in the
ground at 30 degree angle, bringing fuse up alongside container. Pack ground
tightly around container. CAUTION: The tightly packed dirt helps to hold
the tube together during the firing. DO not fire unless at least the bottom
half of the container is buried in solidly packed dirt.
Method II- If improvised pipe hand
grenade is used:
1. Follow step 1 on above procedure.
2. Measure off a piece of fuse at least
as long as the cardboard container. Tape one end of this to the fuse from
the blasting cap in the improvised grenade. Be sure ends of fuse are in
contact with each other.
3. Place free end of fuse and black
powder on piece of paper. Tie ends with string so contents will not fall
out.
4. Place package in tube. Insert rag
wadding. Pack so it fits snugly. Place pipe hand grenade into tube. Be
sure it fits snugly.
5. Insert fuse through hole in end
of cardboard container. Be sure it goes into black powder package. Note:
Cardboard container may be used for ony one firing.
6. Follow step 6 of method I. How to
Use ---------- Light fuse when ready to fire.
Fire Bottle launcher
Sec. IV, No. 4
A device using 2 items (shotgun and
chemical fire bottle) that can be used to start or place a fire 80 yards
from launcher.
Materials --------- standard 12 gauge
shotgun or improvised shotgun (Sec. III, No. 2) improvised fire bottle
(Sec. V, No. 1) tin can, about 4 in. in diameter and 5 1/2 in. high wood,
about 3 in. x 3 in. x 2 in. nail, at least 3 in. nuts and bolts or nails,
at least 2 1/2 in. long rag paper drill If standard shotgun is used: Hard
wood stick, about the same lenght of the shotgun barrel and about 5/8 in.
in diameter- stick need not to be round 2 washers (brass, steel, iron,
etc.) having outside diameter of 5/8 in. one wood screw about 1 in. long
rubber disk, 3/4 in. in diameter and 1/4 in. thick (leather, cardboard,
etc. may also be used) 12 gauge shorgun ammunition If improvised shotgun
is used: Fuse, safety or improvised fast burning (Sec. VI, No. 7) hard
wood stick, about the same length of the barrel and 3/4 in. in diameter
black powder- 9 grams, See Sec. VII. No. 8)
Procedure ---------
Method I- If improvised shotgun is
used:
1. Drill hole in center of wood block
approx. 1 in. deep. Hole should have approx. the same diameter of the woden
stick.
2. Drill 2 small holes on opposite
sides of the wooden block. Hole should be large enough for bolts to pass
through.
3. Fasten can to block with nuts and
bolts. Note: Can may also be securely fastened to clock by hammering several
nails through can and block. Do dot drill holes, and be careful not to
split wood. 4. Place wooden stick into hole in wooden block. Drill small
hole (same diameter as that of 3 in. nail) through wooden block and through
wooden stick. Insert nail in hole.
5. Crumple paper and place in bottom
of can. Place another piece of paper around fire bottle and insert into
can. Use enough paper so that bottle will fit snugly.
6. Place safety fuse and black powder
on paper. Tie each end with string.
7. Thread fuse through hole in plug.
Place powder package in rear of shotgun. Screw plug finger tight into coupling.
Note: Hole in plug may have to be enlarged for fuse.
8. Insert rag into front of cartridge.
Pack rag against powder package with stick. USE CAUTION! Method II- If
standard shotgun is used:
1. Follow steps 1 and 2, shotgun grenade
launcher, Sec. IV, No. 2. 2. Follow procedure of method I, steps 1-5. 3.
Follow steps 9, 10, 11, shotgun grenade launcher, Sec. IV, No. 2, using
1/3 of total propellant instead of 1/2. 4. Load cartridge in gun. CAUTION:
Do not tilt muzzle downward.
2. Hold gun against ground at 45 degree
angle and light fuse. Note: Steps 1 and 2, "How to Use" same for both standard
and improvised shotguns. CAUTION: Severe burns may result if bottle shatters
when fired. If possible, obtain a bottle identical to that being used as
the fire bottle. Fill about 2/3 full of water and fire as above. If bottle
shatters when fired instead of being launched intact, use a different type
of bottle.
Grenade Launchers
Sec. IV, No. 5
A variety of grenade launchers can
be fabricated from metal pipes and fittings. Ranges up to 660 yards can
be obtained depending on length of tube, charge, number of grenades, and
angle of firing. Materials --------- Metal pie, threaded on one end and
approx. 2 1/2 in. in diameter and 14 in. to 4 ft. long, depending on range
desired and number of grenades used. end cap to fit pipe black powder,
15 to 50 grams, approx 1 1/4 to 4 1/4 tablespoons (Sec. I, No. 3) safety
fuse, fast burning improvised fuse (Sec. VI, No. 7) OR improvised electric
bulb initiator (Sec. VI, No. 1) automobile light bulb is needed grenades-
1 to 6 rag(s) about 30 in. x 30 in. drill string Note: Examine pipe carefully
to be sure there are no flaws or cracks.
Procedure ---------
Method I- If fuse is used:
1. Drill small hole through center
of end cap.
2. Make small knot near one end of
fuse. Place black powder and knotted end of fuse in paper and tie with
string.
3. Thread fuse through hole in end
cap and place package in end cap. Screw end cap onto pipe, being careful
that black powder package is not caught between threads.
4. Roll rag wad so that it is about
6 in. long and has approx. the same diameter as the pipe. Push rolled rag
into open end of pipe until it rests against black powder package.
5. Hold grenade safety lever in place
and carefully withdraw safety pin. CAUTION: If grenade safety lever is
released for any reason, the grenade will explode after the usual delay
(4-5 sec.).
6. Holding safety lever in place, carefully
push grenade into pipe, lever end first, until it rests against rag wad.
7. The following table list carious
types of grenade launchers and their performance characteristics. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Desired range | No. of grenades | black powder | pipe length | firing angle
----------------|-------------------|--------------|-------------|-------------
250 m | 1 | 15 gm | 14" | 30 degrees 500 m | 1 | 50 gm | 48" | 10 degrees
600 m (A) | 1 | 50 gm | 48" | 30 degrees 200m | 6 (B) | 25 gm | 48" | 30
degrees ----------------|-------------------|--------------|-------------|-------------
(A): For this range, an additional delay is required, see Sec. VI, No.
11& 12. (B): For multiple launcher, load as shown: (bullshit. Like
this.) Note: Since performance of different black powder varies, fire several
test rounds to determine the exact amount of powder necessary to achieve
the desired range. Load in this order, from bottom: Black powder package,
rolled rag (30x30), grenade, stuffed rag (20x20), grenade, stuffed rag
(20x20), etc...
How to Use ----------
1. Bury at least 1/2 of the launcher
pipe in the ground at desired angle. Open end should face the expected
path of the enemy. Muzzle my be covered with cardboard and a thin layer
of dirt and/or leaves as camouflage. Be sure cardboard prevents dirt from
entering pipe. Note: The 14 in. launcher may be hand held against the ground
instead of being buried.
2. Light fuse when ready to fire.
Method II- If electrical igniter is
used: Note: Be sure bulb is in good operating condition.
1. Prepare electric bulb initiator
as described in Sec. VI, No.1.
2. Place electric initiator and black
powder charge in paper. Tie ends of paper with string.
3. Follow above procedure, steps 3
to end of Procedure.
How to Use ----------
1. Follow above How to Use, Step 1.
2. Connect leads to firing circuit. Close circuit when ready to fire.
60MM mortar projectile
Launcher Sec. IV, No. 6
A device to launch 60MM mortar rounds
using a metal pipe 2 1/2 in. in diameter and 4 ft. long as the launching
tube.
Materials --------- Mortar, 60MM projectile
and charge increments metal pipe, 2 1/2 in. in diameter and 4 ft. long,
threaded on one end threaded cap to fit pipe bolt, 1/8 in. in diameter
and at least 1 in. long. two nuts to fit bolt file drill
Procedure ---------
1. Drill hole 1/8 in. in diameter through
center of end cap.
2. Round off end of bolt with file.
3. Place bolt through hole in end cap.
Secure in place with nuts. =============== +=+ ()::+:+::: <- must protrude
1/4 inch on both sides +=+ ================ where: "=" is end cap "()"
is bolt head "+" is nut ":" is bolt
4. Screw end cap onto pipe tightly.
Tube is now ready for use.
How to Use ----------
1. Bury launching tube in ground at
desired angle so that bottom of tube is at least 2 ft. underground. Adjust
the number of increments in rear finned end of mortat projectile. See following
table (shit) for launching angle and number of increments used.
2. When ready to fire, withdraw safety
wire from mortar projectile. Drop projectile into launching tube, FINNED
END FIRST. (yes, several assholes in the ARMY have actually put one down
head first....BOOM! They ain't with us no more...) CAUTION: Be sure bore
riding pin is in place when mortar projectile is dropped into tube. A live
mortar round could explode in the tube if ithe fit is loose enough to permit
the bore riding pin to come out partway. Also keep all body arts behind
open end of tube when firing, as the mortar will fire once dropped down
the tube.
Table desired range (yds.) | max height
(yards) | angle of elevation | charge (a) | ----------------|--------------------|--------------------|----------------|
150 | 25 | 40 | 0 | 300 | 50 | 40 | 1 | 700 | 150 | 40 | 2 | 1000 | 225
| 40 | 3 | 1500 | 300 | 40 | 4 | ----------------|--------------------|--------------------|----------------|
125 | 75 | 60 | 0 | 300 | 125 | 60 | 1 | 550 | 250 | 60 | 2 | 1000 | 375
| 60 | 3 | 1440 | 600 | 60 | 4 | ----------------|--------------------|--------------------|----------------|
75 | 100 | 80 | 0 | 150 | 200 | 80 | 1 | 300 | 350 | 80 | 2 | 400 | 600
| 80 | 3 | 550 | 750 | 80 | 4 | ----------------|--------------------|--------------------|----------------|
(A): charge- number of increments
Silent grenade
launcher Sec. IV, No. 7
A completely silent grenade launcher
can be made from a 12 gauge shotgun shell, pieces of pipe, pipe resucer,
wooden dowels and a wine bottle cork. This produces a launcher that can
propel a fire bottle in excess of 100 yards and a grenade in excess of
300 yards. After firing, all of the expanding gas in contained within the
barrel. This principle of gas containment produces a completely silent
weapon.
Materials --------- 12 gauge shotgun
shells launcher parts: 3/4 in. nominal size water or gas pipe, 30 in. long
and threaded on both ends 3/4 in. steel pipe coupler 3/4 in. steel pipe
plug sheet of wood 2 in. x 4 in. x 32 in. metal strap 1/4 in. x 1/16 in.
x 4 in. heavy twine (approx. 100 yards) 3 wood screws and screwdriver flat
head nail (8D) for firing and safety pins saw, file and drill with assortment
of bits shellac or lacquer rubber bands Gas containment parts: 3/4 in.
to 1/2 in. steel pipe reducer 3/4 in. diameter, 1 1/2 in. long hard wooden
dowel 3/4 in. diameter wine bottle cork rubber disk 3/4 in. in diameter
and 1/4 in. thick (leather or neoprene can be used in place of the rubber
disk) vaseline Launching platfirm parts: hard wooden dowel 30 in. long
x 1/2 in. in diameter tin can to fit over fire bottle or hand grenade wood
platfirm base approx. 3 in. x 3 in. x 2 in. to which tin can and wooden
dowel will be mounted nuts and bolts, or nails, at least 2 1/2 in. long
Procedure ---------
1. Carefully inspect pipe and fittings:
A. Make sure there are no cracks or
other flaws.
B. Check inside diameter of pipe. A
12 gauge shotgun shell should fit into the pipe but the brass rim of the
shell should not.
C. Outside diameter of the pipe must
be at least 1 in.
D. Screw the 3/4 in. - 1/2 in. pipe
resucer onto the front end of the pipe. Sighting through the rear end of
the pipe, ensure that the reduced 1/2 in. center hole is centered with
respect to the side walls of the 3/4 in. pipe. Remove the pipe reducer
and set aside for later use. CAUTION: Do not use a pipe reducer that causes
an offset center hole when it is tightened down on the end of the pipe.
2. Cut stock from wood using a saw:
| <- approx. 32 in. -> | | <- 13 1/2 in. -> | one inch thick at butt
______________________________ _ ________________________| | <- 2 inches
thick 4| | __| here; should i| | _______------ taper to 2x2in n|_ |_____________________________-----------
3. Cut 3/8 in. deep "V" groove int
he top of the stock.
4. Turn the 3/4 in. pipe coupling onto
the rear of the pipe.
5. Coat pipe and "V" groove of stock
with shellac or lacquer and while still wet, place pipe in "V" groove and
wrap pipe and stock together using two heavy layers of twine. Coat twine
with shellac or lacquer after each layer.
6. Using a metal file, file the threaded
end of the pipe plug flat. This allows a firm seat between the rear of
the shotshell case and the end of the pipe plug. However, because of tapered
screw threads on the pipe and pipe plug, the pipe coupler my prevent firm
seating between the shotshell case and the pipe plug. If this is the case,
fill the space between the pipe plug and the shotshell case with 1 in.
steel washers with holes in the center of the firing pin to pass through.
7. Drill a hole through the center
of the pipe plug large enough for a 8D nail to pass through.
8. Using the same size drill, drill
a hole through the rear side of the pipe plug, perpendicular to and intersecting
witht he central firing pin hole. This is going to be used as a safety
for the firing pin.
9. Push an 8D nail through the central
firing pin hole and cut off flat 1/32 in. past the end of the pipe plug
or the end of the last 1 in. steel washer.
10. Using a file, notch the firing
pin nail where the side hole intersects with the central firing pin hole
and file the end round.
11. Using a serparate 8D nail, push
it through the side hole. Note where it intersents the firing pin hole
and file it flat, to half its normal thickness, from that point until it
passes through the other side. 12. Insert the firing pin into the central
firing pin hole, aligning the slot in the firing pin with he safety hole
in the side of the pipe plug.
13. Insert the safety nail through
the side hole so that it interlocks with the central firing pin. Bend the
protruding end of the safety nail around the end pipe plug to ensure that
the firing pin is locked into place.
14. Insert steel washers, if necessary,
and screw end plug tightly into pipe coupler.
15. Bend a 4 in. metal strap into an
"L" shape and drill a hole for the side pivot screw to pass through. Notch
the metal strap on the long side, 1/2 in. from the bend. | <- 1 1/2
in.->| _______________ |_____________ | /| | ____/ | | bend | | | | 1/16
in.->| |<- |_| |.5 in| |*| "*" = notch should go in 1/8 in. _____ __
| | |-- 1/2 in. > | -- | | | | | | | | | | | | | o | -- |_____| __|-- 1/4
in. |__| | 1/4 in.
16. Position the metal strap on the
stock sp that the top will hit the head of the nail. Attach to the stock
using a wood pivot screw.
17. Place a screw on each side of the
stock about 4 in. in front of the metal strap. Pass rubber bands through
the notch in the metal strap and attach to screw on each side of the stock.
18. Two gas containment pistons should
be made in the following manner:
A. Cut a 3/4 in. diameter wood dowel
to a length of 1 1/2 in. Round the forward edges of the dowel off with
file.
B. Attach a 3/4 in. diameter, 1/4 in.
thick rubber or leather washer to the rearend of the wooden dowel with
a thumb tack. If rubber or leather of the proper thickness is not available,
the washer can be built up to 1/4 in. thick with successive layers of thin
rubber or leather.
C. Cut a 3/4 in. diameter wine bottle
cork to a length of 1 1/2 in. D. Set both pistons aside for later use.
19. A launching platform should be made in the following manner:
A. Drill a 1/2 in. hole approx. 1 in.
deep in the center of the wood block. The 1/2 in. diameter, 30 in. long
hard wooden dowel is to fir into this hole.
B. Drill two 1/4 in. holes on opposite
sides of the wooden support block. These holes should be drilled clear
through the block for bolts to pass through.
C. Using the supporting block as a
template, mark the bolt holes on the bottom of a tin can which is large
enought to hold either a fire bottle or hand grenade, then drill the two
holes in the bottom of the can. Secure the can to the supporting block
by placing 1/4 in. bolts through the bottom of the can and the block, securing
with nuts.
D. Push the 30 in. long, 1/2 in. diameter
wooden dowel into the 1 in. deep hole in the bottom of the supporting block.
Secure in place by driving a nail through the supporting block and into
the center of the wooden dowel.
20. Prepare a 12 gauge shotgun shell
in the following manner:
A. Remove crimp from the shell with
a pen knife. Pour shot from shell and remove the wads and plastic liner
if present.
B. Empty the propellant onto a folded
piece of paper. Divide the propellant into thirds. Replace 2/3 of the propellant
back into the shell case.
C. Replace the 12 gauge cardboard wads
back into the shell casing. If wads are not available, stuff tissue paper
or cotton into the shell case and pack tightly.
How to Use ----------
1. To load:
A. Remoove the firing pin plug from
the rear of the pipe coupler.
B. Insert the specially loaded 12 gauge
shotgun into the rear end of the pipe.
C. Insert steel washers if necessary
and screw the pipe plug back into the rear pipe coupler until it seats
against the base of the shell.
D. Cover the 3/4 in. wooden dowel (gas
containment piston) with Vaseline and insert in the forward end of the
barrel. Using the launching platform as a ramrod, push the piston down
against the shotgun shell in the rear of the launcher.
E. Cover the 3/4 in. diameter wine
bottle cork with Vaseline and press down against the wooden piston.
F. Secure the 3/4 in. to 1/2 in. pipe
reducer tightly to the forward end of the pipe barrel.
G. Insert the 1/2 in. x 30 in. wooden
dowel launching platform into the barrel through the center hole of the
pipe reducer and seat it against the cork secondary gas seal.
H. Isert fire bottle, hand grenade,
or pipe bombs into the tin can on the end of the launching platform. Note:
If a fire bottle is used, crumple paper and place in the bottom of the
can. wrap more paper around the fire bottle and insert into the can. Use
enough paper so the bottle will fit snugly.
2. To fire:
A. Place stock of launcher against
the ground and position the launcher at various degrees of elevation, in
relation to ground level, so that variations of ranges can be achieved.
B. Pull firing strap back with thumb.
When ready to fire, release strap.
Chemical Fire
bottle Sec. V, No. 1
This incendiary is self igniting on
target impact.
Materials Source --------- ------ Sulfuric
acid motor vehicles- batteries materials processing, industrial plants
gasoline motor fuel potassium chlorate drug store sugar food store glass
bottle with stopper (1 qt. approx.) small bottle or jar with lid rag or
absorbent paper (paper towels, newpaper) string or rubber bands
Procedure ---------
1. Sulfuric acid must be concentrated.
If battery acid or other dilute acid is used, concentrate it by boiling
until dense white fumes are given off. Container should be oven glass or
enamel-ware. CAUTION: Sulfuric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing.
If any is spilled, wash it away with a large quantity of water. Fumes are
also dangerous and should not be inhaled.
2. Remove the acid from heat and allow
to cool to room temperature.
3. Pour gasoline into the large (1
qt.) bottle until it is approx. 2/3 full.
4. Add concentrated sulfuric acid to
gasoline slowly until the bottle is filled to within 1 to 2 in. from the
top. Place the stopper in the mouth of the bottle.
5. Wash the outside of the bottle thoroughly
with clear water. CAUTION: If this is NOT done, the bottle may be dangerous
to handle during use.
6. Wrap a clean cloth or several sheets
of absorbent paper around the outside of the bottle. Tie with string ot
fasten with rubber bands.
7. Dissolve 1/2 cup of potassium chlorate
and 1/2 cup of sugar in one cup of boiling water.
8. Allow the solution to cool, pout
into the small bottle and cap slightly. CAUTION: Store this bottle separately
from the other bottle.
How to Use ----------
1. Shake the small bottle to mix contents
and pour onto the cloth or paper around the large bottle. Bottle can be
used wet or after solution has dried. However, when dry, the sugar-Potassium
nitrate mixture is very sensitive to spark or flame and should be handled
accordingly.
2. Throw ot launch the bottle. When
the bottle breaks against a hard surface (target) the acid in the gasoline
will react with the chlorate- sugar mixture annd then ignite the gasoline.
Igniter from book
matches Sec. V, No. 2
This is a hot igniter made from paper
book matches for use with molotov cocktails and other incendiaries.
Materials --------- paper book matches
adhesive or friction tape
Procedure ---------
1. Remove the staple(s) from match
book and separate matches from cover.
2. Fold and tape one row of matches.
3. Shape the cover into a tube with
striking surface on the inside and tape. Make sure the folded cover will
fit tightly around the taped match heads. Leave cover open at opposite
end for insertion of the matches.
4. Push the taped matches into the
tube until the bottom ends are exposed about 3.4 in.
5. Flatten and fold the open end of
the tube so that it laps over about 1 in,; tape in place.
Use with Molotov Cocktail -------------------------
Tap the "match end tab" of the igniter to the neck of the molotov cocktail.
Grasp the "cover end tab" and pull sharply or quickly to ignite.
General Use ----------- The book match
igniter can be used by itself to ignite flammable liquids, fuse cords,
and other similar items requiring hot ignition. CAUTION: Store matches
and completed igniters in moistureproof containers such as rubber or plastic
bags until ready for use. Damp or wet paper book matches will not ignite.
Mechanically Initiated
fire bottle Sec. V, No. 3
The mechanically initiated fire bottle
is an incendiary device which ignites when thrown against a hd surface.
Materials --------- glass jar or short
neck bottle with a leakproof lid or stopper tin can or similar container
just large enough to fit over the lid of the jar coil spring (compression)
approx. 1/2 the diameter of the can and 1 1/2 times as long gasoline four
(4) "blue tip" matches (I think they are called Ohio kitchen matches) flat
stick or piece of metal roughly 1/2 in. x 1/16 in. x 4 in. wire or heavy
twine adhesive tape
Procedure ---------
1. Draw or scratch two lines around
the can- one 3/4 in. and the other 1 1/4 in. from the open end.
2. Cut 2 slots on opposite sides of
the tin can at the line farthest from the open end. Make slots large enough
for the flat stick or piece of metal to pass through.
3. Punch 2 small holes just below the
rim of the open end of the can.
4. Tape blue tip matches together in
pairs. The distance between the match heads should equal the inside diameter
of the can. Two pairs are sufficient.
5. Attach paired matches to second
and third coils of the spring, using thin wire.
6. Insert the end of the spring opposite
the matches into the tin can.
7. Compress the spring until the end
with the matches passes the slot in the can. Pass the flat stick or piece
of metal through slots in can to hold spring in place. This acts as a safety
device.
8. Puch many closely packed small holes
between the lines marked on the can to form a striking surface for the
matches. Be careful to not seriously deform the can.
9. Fill the jar with gasoline and cap
tightly.
10. Turn can over and place over the
jar so that the safety stick rests on the lid of the jar.
11. Pass wire or twine around the bottom
of the jar. Thread ends through the holes in can and bind tightly to jar.
12. Tape wire or cord to jar near the
bottom.
How to Use ----------
1. Carefully withdraw flat safety stick.
2. Throw jar at hard surface. CAUTION:
DO NOT REMOVE SAFETY STICK UNTIL READY TO THROW FIRE BOTTLE. The safety
stick, when in place, prevents ignition of the fire bottle if it should
accidently be broken.
Gelled flame Fuels
Sec. V, No. 4
Gelled or paste type fuels are often
preferable to raw gasoline for use in incediary devices such as fire bottles.
This type fuel adheres more readily to the target and produces greater
heat concentration. Several methods are shown for gelling gasoline using
commonly avilable materials. The methods are divided into the following
catagories based on the major ingredient:
4.1 Lye systems
4.2 Lye-alcohol
4.3 Soap-alcohol systems
4.4 Egg white systems
4.5 Latex systems
4.6 Wax systems
4.7 Animal blood systems
I will type this one warning ONE TIME only! CAUTION: Never at ANY time should you light up a cigarette while mixing flame fuels! No Smoking! Go smokeless!
Lye Systems Sec.
V, No. 4.1
Lye (also known as caustic soda or
Sodium hydroxide) can be used in combination with powdered rosin ot castor
oil to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel which will adhere to target
surfaces. Note: This fuel is not suitable for use in the chemical (sulfuric
acid) type of fire bottle (Sec. V, No. 1). The acid will react with the
lye and break down the gel.
Materials --------- Parts by volume
Ingredient How used Common source --------------- ---------- -------- -------------
60 gasoline motor fuel gas station 2 (flake) or lye drain cleaner, food,
drug store 1 (powder) making soap 15 rosin manufacturing naval stores paint
& varnish industry or castor oil medicine food and drug stores
Procedure ---------
1. Pour gasoline into jar, bottle or
other container. (Do not use an aluminum container.
2. If rosin is in cake form, crush
into small pieces.
3. Add rosin or castor oil to the gasoline
and stir for for about five (5) minutes to mix thoroughly.
4. In a second container (not aluminum)
add lye to an equal volume of water slowly while stirring.
5. Add lye solution to the gasoline
mix and stir until mixture thickens (about 1 minute). Note: The sample
will eventually thicken to a very firm paste. This can be thinned, if desired,
by stirring additional gasoline.
Lye-Alcohol Systems
Sec. V, No. 4.2
Lye (also known as caustic soad or
Sodium hydroxide) can be used in combination with alcohol and any of several
fats to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel.
Materials --------- Parts by volume
Ingredient How Used Common source --------------- ---------- -------- -------------
60 gasoline motor fuel gas station 2 (flake) or lye drain cleaner food,
drug store 1 (powder) making of soap 3 ethyl alcohol whiskey medicine,
liquor store Note: Methyl (wood) alcohol or isopropyl alcohol can be used,
but they produce softer gels. 14 tallow food, soap making fat rendered
by cooking the meat of animal Note: The following can be substituted for
the tallow:
A. wool grease (lanolin) (very good)-
fat extracted from sheep wool.
B. castor oil (good).
C. Any fish oil.
D. Butter or oleo margarine
E. Any vegetable oil (corn, cottonseed,
peanut, linseed, etc.) It is necessary when using substitutes E and D to
double the given amount of fat and lye for satisfactory bodying.
Procedure ---------
1. Pour gasoline into bottle, jar or
other container. (Do not use an aluminum container)
2. Add tallow or substitute to the
gasoline and stir for about 1/2 min. to dissolve fat.
3. Add alcohol to the gasoline mixture.
4. In a separate container (Not aluminum)
slowly add lye to an equal amount of water. Mixture should be stirred constantly
while adding lye.
5. Add lye solution to the gasoline
mixture and stir occasionally until thickened (about 1/2 hour). Note: The
mixture will eventually (1 to 2 days) thicken to a very firm paste. This
can be thinned, if desired, by stirring in additional gasoline.
Soap-Alcohol system
Sec. V, No. 4.3
Common household soap can be used in
combination with alcohol to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel which
will adhere to taget surfaces.
Materials --------- Parts by volume
Ingredient How used Common source --------------- ----------- --------
------------- 36 gasoline motor fuel gas station, cars 1 ethyl alcohol
whiskey liquor, drug store Note: Methyl alcohol or isopropyl alcohol can
be substituted for the whiskey. 20 (powder) or laundry soap washing food
store 28 (flake) clothes Note: Unless the word "soap" actually appears
somewhere on the container or wrapper, a washing compound is probably a
detergent. These cannot be used. Procedure ---------
1. If bar soap is used, carve into
thin flakes using a knife.
2. Pour alcohol and gasoline into a
jar, bottle or other containr and mix thoroughly.
3. Add soap powder or flakes to gasoline-alcohol
mix and stir occasionally until thickened (about 15 minutes).
Egg systems Sec.
V, No. 4.4
The white of any bird egg can be used
to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel which will adhere to target surface.
Materials --------- Parts by volume
Ingredient How used Common source --------------- ---------- -------- -------------
85 gasoline motor fuel gas station 14 egg whites food food store, farm
Any one of the following: 1 table salt food sea water natural brine, food
str. 3 ground coffee food coffee plant food store 3 dried tea leaves tea
plant, food store 3 cocoa food cacao tree food store 2 sugar sweetening
sugar cane, food store 1 saltpeter pyrotechnics drug store (potassium explosives
natural deposts nitrate) matches 1 epsom salts medicine natural deposits
mineral water kieserite industrial procs. drug, food store 2 washing soda
washing cleaner food store (sal soda) photography drug store medicine photography
store 1 1/2 baking soda baking food store manufacture of drug store beverages,
mineral water and medicines 1 1/2 aspirin medicine drug, food store
Procedure ---------
1. Separate the egg white from yolk.
This can be done by breaking the egg into a disk and carefully removing
the yolk with a spoon. Note: Do not get the yellow egg yolk mixed into
the egg white. If egg yolk gets into the egg white, discard the egg.
2. Pour egg white into a jar, bottle,
or other container and add gasoline.
3. Add the salt or other additive to
the mixture and stir occasionally until a gel forms (about 5-10 minutes).
Note: A thicker gelled flame fuel can be obtained by putting the capped
jar in hot (65 degree C) water for about 1/2 hour and then letting them
cool to room temperature. (Do not heat the gelled fuel containing coffee).
Latex systems
Sec. V, No. 4.5
Any milky while plant fluid is a potential
source of latex which can be used to gel gasoline.
Materials --------- Ingredient How
used Common source ---------- -------- ------------- gasoline motor fuel,
solvent gas station, motor vehicle latex, commercial paints, adhesives
natural or from tree or plant, rubber cement One of the following acids:
acetic acid salad dressing food stores (vinegar) developing film fermented
apple cider photographic supply sulfuric acid storage batteries motor vehicles
(oil of vitriol) materials processing industrial plants hydrochloric acid
petroleum wells hardware store (muriatic acid) pickling and metal industrial
plants cleaning industrial processes Note: If acids are not available,
use acid salt (aluminum sulfates and chlorides other than sodium or potassiu).
The formic acid from crushed red ants can also be used.
Procedure ---------
1. With commercial rubber latex:
A. Place 7 parts by volume of latex
and 92 parts by volume of gasoline in bottle. Cap bottle and shake to mix
well.
B. Add 1 part by volume vinegar (or
other acid) and shake until gel forms.
2. With natural latex:
A. Natural latex should form lumps
as it comes from the plant. If lumps do not form, add a small amount of
acid to the latex.
B. Strain off the latex lumps and allow
to dry in air.
C. Place 20 parts by volume of latex
in bottle and add 80 parts by volume of gasoline. Cover bottles and allow
to stand until a swollen gel mass is obtained (2 to 3 days).
Wax systems Sec.
V, No. 4.6
Any of several common waxes can be
used to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel which will adhere to target
surfaces.
Materials --------- Parts by volume
Ingredient How Used Common source --------------- ---------- -------- -------------
80 gasoline motor fuel, gas station, vehicle solvent Any one of the following:
20 Ozocerite leather polish natural deposits mineral wax sealing wax general
stores fossil wax candles department store ceresin wax crayons waxed paper
textile sizing beeswax furniture and honeycomb of bee floor waxes general
store artificial fruit department store lithographing wax paper textile
finish candles bayberry wax candles natural form myrtle wax soaps myrica
berries leather polish general store medicine department store
Procedure ---------
1. Obtaining wax from Natural sources:
Plants and berries are potential sources of natural waxes. Place the plants
and/or berries in boiling water. The natural waxes will melt. Let the water
cool. The natural waxes will form a solid layer on the water surface. Skim
off the solid wax and let dry. With natural waxes which has suspended matter
when melted, screen the wax through a cloth.
2. Melt the wax and pour into jar or
bottle which has been placed in a hot water bath.
3. Add gasoline to the bottle.
4. When wax has completely dissolved
in the gasoline, allow the water bath to cool slowly to room temp. Note:
If a gel does not form, add additional wax, (up to 40 % by volume) and
repeat the above steps. if no gel forms with 40 % wax,, make a lye solution
by dissolving a small amount of lye (sodium hydroxide) in a equal amount
of water. Add this solution (1/2% by volume) to the gasoline wax mix and
shake bottle until get forms.
Animal blood systems
Sec. V, No. 4.7
Animal blood can be used to gel gasoline
for use as a flame fuel which will adhere to target surfaces. Materials
--------- Parts by volume Ingredient How used Common source ---------------
---------- -------- ------------- 68 gasoline motor fuel gas station, cars
30 animal blood food, medicine slaughter house serum natural habitat Any
one of the following: 2 salt food, sea water industrial natural brine processes
food store ground coffee food coffee plant beverage food store dried tea
leaves food store sugar sweetening sugar cane food store lime mortar from
calcium carbonate plaster hardware store medicine drug store ceramics garden
supply steel making baking soda baking food store beverages drug store
industrail prcs. epsom salts medicine drug store mineral water natural
deposits food store
Procedure ---------
1. Preparation of animal blood serum:
A. Slit animal's jugular vein. Hang
upside down to drain.
B. Place coagulated (lumpy) blood in
a cloth or a screen and catch the red fluid (serum) that drains through.
C. Store in cool place if possible.
CAUTION: DO not get aged blood serum into an open cut. This can cause infections.
2. Pour blood serum into jar, bottle,
or other container and add gasoline.
3. Add the salt (or other additive)
to the mixture and stir until a gel forms. X