INTRODUCTION: The trouble with chemical books these days, is that they never explain in detail how to make something that you want. Sure, they tell you how the chinese did it in 1500 or ten centuries ago. But now days, that does not help. Even some of the army manuals don't even give you enough information on HOW-TO -DO it. It's a fun game to search out the materials that can be put together to make something go "BOOM". An interesting point to remember that it is much easier to make a big explosion than a small one. It is very difficult for a home expermienter to make a fire-cracker, but a bomb capable of blowing the walls out of a building is easy. You can find what you need in grocery stores, hardware stores, and farm supplies.
Another, but harder place, to get chemi- cals is a chemical supply house. These places can be dangerous to your explosive career because some supply houses were told to report people who buys chemicals in a certain combination. For example; If a person were to buy tolulene, nitric acid, and sulfuric acid would be reported. The reason, those chemicals are the ones used in making Tri-nitro-tolulene (TNT).
CHAPTER ONE [LOW
EXPLOSIVES]
Low explosive are good for making a
loud bang, or to scare the living daylight out of some poor person or even
for making booby traps. In this chapter I will explain the making of many
different types of low explosives.
BLACKPOWDER
You will need potassium or sodium nitrate,
sulfur, and hardwood charcoal. The common name for potassium nitrate is
saltpeter. Sodium nitrate is sold at farm supplies under the name of nitrate
of soda. It is also called chile salt- peter. Sodium nitrate makes a slightly
more powerful black powder but has a disadvantage because it will absorb
moisture from the air. So, if you use it then be sure to store it in a
dry, air tight container. You also can get sulfur at farm supplies as a
wetable powder used for spraying. It is cheap and works well. Some drug
stores sell sulfur under the name of flowers of sulfur. If you use nitrate
of soda, it will be in the form of little round beads. Bake it in an over
at 200 degrees for 10-15 minutes to drive out the moisture. Then dump a
cup or two into a blender and switch it on. It will do a beautiful job
of reducing it to powder. Buy a bag of charcoal briquettes at a grocery
store. Put a few briquettes in a rag and pound with a hammer. Dip the results
into the blender, grind, and strain through a tea strainer. Mix by volume:
6 parts potassium or sodium nitrate. 2 parts powdered charcoal 1 part sulfur
This mixture will burn if ignited and will explode if ignited while tightly
confined. It can be greatly improved , however, by processing it as follows:
Moisten with water until it will stick together when pinched between thumb
and finger. Press it into a disposable aluminum pie pan. Bake it in a preheated
oven at 200 degrees for about 30 minutes. Get it totally dry. Grind into
a fin a powder as possible with a mortar and pestle. If you use a blender
at this point, there is a danger of explosion. It is not very sensitive
to friction or impact, but is very sensitive to sparks. If you followed
these directtions, you should have a fine slate-grey powder.
OTHER TYPES OF
BLACKPOWDER
Below are eleven black/gun powder formulas.
They are more powerful than the ordinary potassium nitrate powder. The
only disadvantage (or advantage) is that it is very sensitive to sparks
and some leave a corrosive residue. A word of caution, when you decide
to make these compounds be careful for some of them might decide to go
up just because they want to.
[All chemicals are measured by volume]
1: Potassium perchlorate 69.2% Sulfur
15.4% Charcoal 15.4%
2: Potassium nitrate 70.4% Sulfur 19.4%
Sodium sulfate 10.2%
3: Potassium nitrate 64.0% sulfur 12.0%
sawdust 17.0% charcoal 7.0%
4: Potassium nitrate 50.0% Ammonium
perchlorate 25.0% Sulfur 12.5% charcoal 12.5%
5: Barium nitrate 75.0% Charcoal 12.5%
Sulfur 12.5%
6: Sodium peroxide 67.0% Sodium thiosulphate
33.0%
7: Potassium chlorate 75.0% Sulfur
12.5% Charcoal 12.5%
8: Potassium nitrate 79.0% straw charcoal
12.0% sulfur 12.0%
9: Potassium nitrate 70.6% Sulfur 23.5%
Antimony sulfate 5.9%
10: Potassium nitrate 37.5% Starch
37.5% Sulfur 18.75% Antimony powder 6.25%
11: Guanidine nitrate 49.0% Potassium
nitrate 40.0% Charcoal 11.0%
The above chemical ratios are percentages. When making the stuff, be sure to grind up all the ingredients as fine as you possibly can. The finer you have the chemicals the better it will explode.
ZINC EXPLOSIVE
To make a big flash of flames almost
instantly try mixing: 1 part Zinc dust 1 part Sulfur. When these two mix
together they will burst into flame almost instantly! Be careful for it
does go off in a sudden flash and can singe anything that it is around
if not expecting it. This is not a powerful explosive but it is violent
even when not confined. So, be careful.
WATER FIRE STARTER
So, do you think water puts out fires?
In this one, it starts it. Mixture: ammonium nitrate + ammonium chloride
+ iodine + zinc dust. When a drop or two of water is added, the ammonium
nitrate forms nitric acid which reacts with the zinc to produce hydrogen
and heat. The heat vaporizes the iodine (giving off purple smoke) and the
ammonium chloride (becomes purple when mixed with iodine vapor). It will
ignite the hydrogen and begin burning. Ammonium nitrate: 8 grams Ammonium
choride: 1 gram Zinc dust : 8 grams Iodine crystals : 1 gram
EXPLOSIVE MIXTURES
Following is a list of chemicals, most
of which can be easily obtained. You will also find the chemical symbol
of another chemical which explodes on contact with said chemical. This
is useful in making the ever so useful pipe bomb. Just for the people that
don't know:
SULFURIC ACID = H2SO4
NITRIC ACID = HNO3
------------------------------------------------------------
CHEMICAL EXPLODES WITH -------- ------------- Acetic acid H2SO4, HNO3 Acetic
anhydride " " Acrolein " " Allyl alcohol " " Allyl chloride " " Aniline
" " Aniline acetate " " Aniline hydrochloride " " Benzoyl peroxide " "
Cyanic acid " " Chlorosulfonic acid " " Dimethyl keytone " " Epichlorohydrin
" " Ethylene diamine " " Ethylene imine " " Hydrogen peroxide " " Isoprene
" " Mesityl oxide " " ------------------------------------------------------------
Acetone Cyanohydrin H2SO4 Carbon disulfide " Cresol " Cumene " Diisobutylene
" Ethylene cyanohydrin " Ethylene glycol " Hydrofluoric acid " ------------------------------------------------------------
Cyanide of sodium HNO3 Cyclohexanol " Cyclohexanone " Ethyl alcohol " Hydrazine
" Hydriodic acid " Isopropyl ether " Manganese "
CHAPTER TWO [HIGH
EXPLOSIVES]
Now, here I stress the word of saftey.
These explosive compounds can remove a limb or kill you. So I would suggest,
before you even think about trying any of these, that you have some background
knowledge on explosive or chemistry. These explosives range from sound
sensitive to water sensitive or electrically ignited. It takes time and
patience to make high explosive compounds. Some are easier than the others
and some of the chemicals seem almost impossible to find.
In this part, to obtain most of the chemicals needed here you will have to go though a chemical supply house. Remember that some of the chemical houses have been told to notifiy the police if a certian combination of chemicals are ordered then send the name and all the information about that person ordering to the police. And it is possible that you might get a little visit from the city law. Also, making, using, selling, or possession of many of the explosives are illegal and a hard penalty can rise. Even for first offenders. Take this warning. Its true!
ASTROLITE
The astrolite family of liquid explosives
were products of rocket propell- ant research in the '60's. Astrolite A-1-5
is supposed to be the world's most powerful non-nuclear explosive at about
1.8 to 2 times more powerful than TNT. Being more powerful it is also safer
to handle than TNT(not that it isn't safe in the first place) and Nitroglycerin.
"Astrolite G is a clear liquid explosive especially designed to produce
very high detonation velocity, 8,600MPS (meters/sec.) ,compared with 7,700MPS
for nitroglycerin and 6,900MPS for TNT...In addition,a very unusual characteristic
is that it the liquid explosive has the ability to be absorbed easily into
the ground while remaining detonable...In field tests, Astrolite G has
remained detonable for 4 days in the ground, even when the soil was soaked
due to rainy weather know what that means?....Astrolite Dynamite! To make
(mix in fairly large container & outside) Two parts by weight of ammonium
nitrate mixed with one part by weight 'anhydrous' hydrazine,produces Astrolite
G...Feel free to use different ratios Hydrazine is the chemical you'll
probably have the hardest time getting hold of. Uses for Hydrazine are:
Rocket fuel, agricultural chemicals (maleic hydrazide), drugs (antibacterial
and antihypertension), polymerization cata- lyst, plating metals on glass
and plastics, solder fluxes, photographic deve lopers, diving equipment.
Hydrazine is also the chemical you should be careful with. Astrolite A/A-1-5
------------------ Ok, here's the good part... Mix 20%(weight) aluminum
powder to the ammonium nitrate,and then mix with hydra- zine. The aluminum
powder should be 100 mesh or finer. Astrolite A has a de- tonation velocity
of 7,800MPS. You should be careful not to get any of the astrolite on you,
if it happens though, you should flush the area with water. Astrolite A&G
both should be able to be detonated by a #8 blasting cap.
Sodium Chlorate
Explosives ------------------------
Potassium chlorate is similar to Sodium
chlorate,and in most cases can be a substitute. Sodium chlorate is also
more soluble in water. You can find sodium chlorate at Channel or any hardware/home
improvement store. It is used in blowtorches and you can get about 3lb.s
for about $6.00.
Sodium Chlorate
Gunpowder ------------------------- 65% sodium chlorate 22% charcoal
13% sulphur and sprinkle some graphite on top. Rocket Fuel -----------
6 parts sodium chlorate mixed *THOROUGHLY* with 5 parts rubber cement.
Rocket Fuel 2 (better performance)
---------------------------------- 50% sodium chlorate 35% rubber cement
10% epoxy resin hardener 5% sulphur You may wish to add more sodium chlorate
depending on the purity you are using.
Incendiary Mixture ------------------
55% aluminum powder (atomized) 45% sodium chlorate 5% sulphur Impact Mixture
-------------- 50% red phosphorus 50% sodium chlorate Unlike potassium
chlorate,sodium chlorate won't explode spontaneously when mixed with phosphorus.
It has to be hit to be detonated.
Filler explosive ---------------- 85%
sodium chlorate 10% vaseline 5% aluminum powder Nitromethane explosives
---------------------
Nitromethane (CH3NO2) specific gravity:1.139
flash point:95f auto-ignite:785f Derivation: reaction of methane or propane
with nitric acid under pressure. Uses: Rocket fuel; solvent for cellulosic
compounds, polymers, waxes, fats, etc. To be detonated with a #8 cap,add:
1) 95% nitromethane + 5% ethylenediamine 2) 94% nitromethane + 6% aniline
Power output: 22-24% more powerful than TNT. detonation velocity of 6,200MPS.
Nitromethane 'solid' explosives -------------------------------
2 parts nitromethane 5 parts ammonium nitrate ( solid powder) Soak for
3-5 min. when done,store in an air-tight container. This is supposed to
be 30% more powerful than dynamite containing 60% nitrogly- cerin, and
has 30% more brisance.
PICRIC ACID
Phenol is melted and then mixed with
a concentrated solution of sulfuric acid. The mixture is constatnly stirred
and kept at a stedy temperature of 95 degrees celcius for four to six hours,
depending on the quanities of phenol used. After this, the acid-phenol
solution is diluted with distilled water, and an equal excess amount of
nitric acid is added. The mixture of the nitric acid will cause an immediate
reaction, which will produce heat, so the addition of the acid must be
performed slowly, but more importatly the temperature of the solution must
not go above 110 degrees celcius. Ten or so minutes after the addition
of nitric acid, the picric acid will be fully formed, and you can drain
off the excess acid. It should be filtered and washed in the same manner
as above until little or no acid is present. When washing, use only cold
wa- ter. After this, the pircic acid should be sllowed to partially dry.
Picric acid is a more powerful explosive than TNT, but it has its disadvantages.
It is more expensive to make, and it best handled in a wet 10 percent distilled
water form, as pictic becomes very unstable when completely dry. This compound
should never be put into direct contact with metal, since instantly on
contact there is a formation of metal picrate, which explodes spontaneously
upon format- ion.
TETRYL
A small amount of dimethyllaniline
is dissolved in a excess amount of concentrated sulfuric acid. This mixture
is now added to an equal amount of nitric acid. The new mixture is kept
in an ice bath, and is well stirred. After about five minutes, the tetrylis
filtered and then washed in cold water It is now boiled in fresh water,
which contains a small amount of sodium bicarbonate. This process acts
to neutralize any remaining acid. The washings are repeated as many times
as necessary according to the litmus paper tests. When you are satisfied
that the tetryl is free of acids, filter it from the water and allow- ed
to dry. When tetryl is detonated, it reacts in very much the same way as
TNT.
PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE
FROM BLEACH
This explosive is a Potassium chlorate
explosive. This explosive and explosives of similar composition were used
in WWI as the main explosive filler in grenades, land mines, and morter
rounds used by French, German, and some other forces involved in that conflict.
These explosives are relatively safe to manufacture. The procedures in
the following paragraph can be dangerous if you don't take special care.
One should strive to make sure these explosives are free from sulfur, sul-
fides, and picric acid. The presence of these compounds result in mixtures
that are or can become highly sensitive and possibly decompose explosively
while in storage. One should never store home made explosives, make enough
for what you need at the time. YOU NEVER KNOW HOW STABLE IT IS UNTIL IT
BLOWS! The manufacter of this explosive from bleach is given just as an
expediant method. This method of manufacturing potassium chlorate is not
economical due to the amount of energy used to boil the solution and cause
the "Dissociation" reaction to take place. The procedure does work and
yields a relatively pure and a sulfur, sulfide free product. These explosives
are very cap sensitive and require only a #3 cap for instigating detonation.
To manufacture potassium chlorate from bleach, (5.25% sodium hypochlorite
solution), obtain a heat source, hot-plate, stove, etc., a battery hydrometer,
a large pyrex or enameled steel container, a triple beam balance (to weigh
chem- icals), and some potassium chloride, (sold as salt substitute). Take
one gallon of bleach and place it in the container and begin heating it.
While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams potassium chloride and add
this to the bleach being heated. Bring this solution to a boil and boil
until when checked with a hydrometer the reading is 1.3, (if battery hydrometer
is used, it should read FULL charge.) When the reading is 1.3 take the
solution and let it cool in the refriger- ator until it is between room
temperature and 0 degrees celcius. Filter out the crystals that have formed
and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and
save the crystals. Take these crystals that have been saved and mix them
with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100 mililiters
distilled water. Heat that solution until it boils and allow to cool. Filter
the solution and save the crystals the form upon cooling. This process
of purification is called fractional crystalization. These crystals should
be relatively pure potassium chlorate. Powder these to the consistancy
of face powder and heat gently to drive off all moisture. Melt five parts
vaseline and five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gaso- line, (camp stove
gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlor- ate, (the
powdered crystals from above), in a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into
the potassium chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all the gasoline to
evaporate. Place this explosive in a cool dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur,
sul- fides, and phophorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to
the desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax
till water proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation
velocity.
RDX
THE PRODUCTION OF RDX IS VERY DANGEROUS
IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. DO NOT ATTEMPT ANY OF THIS UNLESS
YOU HAVE TAKEN SAFTEY PRECAUTIONS. Since the first part of WWII the armed
forces of the United States has been searching for the perfect plastique
explosives to be used in demolition work. This search lead to the development
of the 'C' composition plastique explo- sives. Of this group C-4 being
the lastest formulation that has been readily adopted by the armed forces.
This formulation was preceded by C-3, C-2, and C. In this series of articles,
I will cover all these explosives in their chrono- logical progression
as they were developed and standardized by the armed for- ces. All these
explosives are cyclonite (R.D.X.) base with various plastisi- zing agents
used to achieve the desired product. This plastisizer, usually composes
7%-20% of the total weight of the plastique. Cyclotrimethylenetrinit- trime
or cyclonite is manufactured in bulk by the nitration of hexamethylenetet-
ramine, (methenamine, hexamine, etc., etc.) with strong red 100% nitric
acid. The hardest part of this reaction is obtaining this red nitric acid.
It will most likely have to be made. More on this later. Hexamine or methenamine
can usually be bought in bulk quantities or hexamine fuel bars for camp
stoves can be used but they end up being very expensive. To use the fuel
bars the need to be powered before hand. The hexamine can also be made
with common ammonia wa- ter (30%) and the commonly avaliable 36% formaldehyde
solution. To make this componant place 185 grams of clear ammonia water
in a shallow pyrex dish. To this add 500 ml. of the formaldehyde solution
to the ammonia water. Allow this to evaporate and when the crystals are
all that remains in the pan place the pan in the oven on the lowest heat
that the oven has. This should be done only for a moment or so to drive
off any remaining water. These crystals are scraped up and placed in a
airtight jar to store them until they are used. To make the red nitric
acid you will need to buy a retort with a ground glass stopper. In the
retort place 32 grams sulfuric acid, (98%-100%), and to this add 68 grams
of potassium nitrate or 58 grams of sodium nitrate. Gently heating this
retort will generate a red gas called nitrogen trioxide. THIS GAS IS HIGHLY
POISONOUS AND THIS STEP, AS WITH ALL OTHER STEPS, SHOULD BE DONE WITH GOOD
VENTILATION. This nitric acid that is formed will collect in the neck of
the retort and form droplets that will run down the inside of the neck
of the retort and should be caught in a beaker cooled by being surrounded
by ice wa- ter. This should be heated till no more collects in the neck
of the retort and the nitric acid quits dripping out of the neck into the
beaker. This acid should be stored until enough acid is generated to produce
the required size batch which is determined by the person producing the
explosive. Of course the batch can be larger or smaller but the same rations
should be maintained. To make R.D.X. place 550 grams of the nitric acid
produced by the above proced- ure in a 1000 ml. beaker in a salted bath.
50 grams of hexamine, (methenamine) is added in small portions making sure
that the temperature of the acid DOES NOT GO ABOVE 30 DEGREES CELCIUS.
This temperature can be monitored by placing a thermometer directly in
the acid mixture. During this procedure a vigorous stirring should be maintained.
If the temperature approches 30 degrees, IMMED- IATLY STOP THE ADDITION
OF THE HEXAMINE until the temperature drops to an ac- ceptable level. After
the addition is complete continue the stirring and allow the temperature
to drop to 0 degrees celcius and allow it to stay there for 20 minutes
coninuing the vigerous stirring. After the 20 minutes are up, pour this
acid-hexamine mixture into 1000 ml. of finely crushed ice and water. Crystals
should form and are filtered out of the liquid. The crystals that are filtered
out are R.D.X. and will need to have all traces of the acid removed. To
remove this trace of acid, first wash these crystals by putting them in
ice water and shaking and refiltering. These crystals are then placed in
a little boiling water and filtered. Place them in some warm water and
check the acid- ity for the resultant suspension with litmus paper. You
want it to read be- tween 6 and 7 on the Ph scale. If there is still acid
in these crystals reboil them in fresh water until the acid is removed
and the litmus paper shows them between 6 and 7, (the closer to 7 the better).
To be safe these crystals should be stored water wet until ready for use.
THESE CRYSTALS ARE A VERY HIGH EXPLOSIVE AND SHOULD BE TREATED WITH THE
RESPECT THEY DESERVE! This explosive is much more powerful than T.N.T.
To use, these will need to be dryed for some manufaturing processes in
the next few articles. To dry these crystals, place them in a pan and spread
them out and allow the water to evaporate off them until the are completely
dry. This explosive will detonate in this dry form when pressed into a
mold to a density of 1.55 grams cubed, at a velocity of 8550 M/second!
COMPOSITION 'C' All of the type 'C' plastic explosives (that includes C-2,
C-3, and C-4) are exceedingly powerful and should be used with utmost care.
This explosive is just a copy of a British explosive that was adopted early
in WWII. This explosive is the choice explosive of the type 'C' compounds
because of its relative ease of maufacture and the easy aquisition of the
plastizer compound. This explosive was available in standard demolition
blocks. This explosive was standardized and adopted in the following composition:
R.D.X.......................... 88.3%
Heavy mineral oil.............. 11.1%
Lecithin....................... .6%
(All percentages are by weight) In this composition, the lecithin acts
to prevent the formation of large crystals of R.D.X. which would increase
the sensitivity of the explosive. This explosive has a good deal of power
and is relatively non-toxic, (except when ingested). It is also plastic
from 0-40 degrees celcius. Above 40 degrees the explosive undergoes extrudation
and becomes gummy although its explosive properties go relatively unimpaired.
Below 0 degrees celcius it becomes brittle and its cap sensitivity is lessened
considerably. Manufacturing this explosive can be done two ways. First
being to dissolve the 11.7% plastisizing in unleaded gasoline and mixing
with the R.D.X. and al- lowing the gasoline to evaporate until the mixture
is free of all gasoline. The second method being the simple kneading of
the plastisizing compound into the R.D.X. until a uniform mixture is obtained.
This explosive should be stored in a cool-dry place. If properly made the
plastique should be very stable in storage even if stored at elevated tempara-
tures for long periods of time. It should be very cap sensitive. A booster
will be a good choice, especial- ly if used below 0 degrees celcius. This
detonates at a velocity of 7900 M/second.
COMPOSITION C-2
AND C-3
These are highly undesirable because
of certain trait each has and they don't produce as much power as 'C' and
'C-4' compounds. It is not recommended you make these two types of plastique,
this part was written for imformatative purposes only. Composition 'C-2'
is harder to make than 'C-4' and is TOXIC TO HANDLE. It is also unstable
in storage and is poor choice for home explosive manufacture. It also has
a lower detonation velocity than either 'C-4' or 'C-3'. It is manufactured
in a steam jacketed (heated) melting kettle using the same procedure used
in incorperation of 'C-3'. Its composition is as follows: R.D.X.................
80% (Equal parts of them following:) Mononitrotolulene Dinitrotolulene
T.N.T. guncotton Dimethylformide......... 20% (See Below for rest of recipe)
'C-3' was developed to eliminate the undesirable aspects of 'C-2'. It was
standardized and adopted by the military as following composition: R.D.X................
77% Mononitrotolulene.... 16% Dinitrotolulene...... 5% Tetryl...............
1% T.N.T. guncotton..... 1% 'C-3' is manufactured by mixing the plastisizing
agent in a steam jacketed melting kettle equipped with a mechanical stirring
attachment. The kettle is heated to 90-100 degrees celcius and the stirrer
is activated. Water wet R.D.X. is added to the plastisizing agent and the
stirring is continued until a uni- form mixture is obtained and all water
has been driven off. Remove the heat source but continue to stir the mixture
until it has cooled to room tempera- ture. This explosive is as sensitive
to impact as is T.N.T. Storage at 65 de- grees celcius for four months
at a relative humidity of 95% does not impair it's explosive properties.
'C-3' is 133% as good as an explosive as T.N.T. The major drawback of 'C-3'
is its volatility which causes it to lose 1.2% of its weight although the
explo- sives detonation properties are not affected. Water does not affect
explosives preformance. Thus it is very good for un- derwater demolition
uses and would be a good choice for such an application. When stored at
77 degrees celcius considerable extrudation takes place. It will become
hard at -29 degrees celcius and is hard to detonate at this temp- erature.
While this explosive is not unduely toxic, it should be handled with care
as it contains aryl-nitro compounds which are absorbed through the skin.
It will reliably take detonation from a #6 blasting cap but the use of
a booster is always suggested. This explosive has a great blast effect
and was avaliable in standard demolition blocks. Its detonation velocity
is approxi- mately 7700 M/second. GELATIN DYNAMITE Below are five different
ways to make a very common explosive.
Dynamite.
#1 nitro-------------------------12%
guncotten---------------------.5% amonium nitrate---------------87.5%
#2 nitro-------------------------88%
potassium nitrate--------------5% tetryl-------------------------7%
#3 nitro-------------------------24%
guncotten----------------------1% amonium nitrate---------------75%
#4 nitro-------------------------75%
guncotten----------------------5% potassium nitrate-------------15% wood
meal----------------------5%
#5 nitro-------------------------80%
ethalyne glycol dinitrate-----20%
After making this stuff, pack it in
a cardboard tube and epoxy each end. But be careful for it might be a little
unstable because of the nitroglycerine (ni- tro). Before it is totally
dry stick a good fuse in one of the ends. Light, Throw, and run as if your
life depended on it! Which in a way it does.
PEROXYACETONE
Peroxyacetone is extremely flammable
and has been reported to be shock sensitive. --Materials-- 4ml Acetone
4ml 30% Hydrogen Peroxide 4 drops conc. hydrochloric acid 150mm test tube
Add 4ml acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to the test tube. Then add 4
drops concentrated hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid should
begin to appear. If no change is observed, warm the test tube in a water
bath at 40 Celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours. Swirl
the slurry and filter it. Leave out on filter paper to dry for at least
two hours. To ignite, light a candle tied to a meter stick and light it
(while staying at least a meter away).
CELLULOSE NIRTATE
(GUNCOTTON)
Commonly known as Smokeless powder,
Nitrocellulose is exactly that it does not give off smoke when it burns.
Materials- 70ml concentrated sulfuric acid 30ml concentrated nitric acid
5g absorbent cotton 250ml sodium bicarbonate 250ml beaker ice bath tongs
paper towels Place 250ml beaker in the ice bath, add 70ml sulfuric acid,
30 ml nitric acid. Divide cotton into .7g pieces. With tongs, immerse each
piece in the acid solution for 1 minute. Next, rinse each piece in 3 successive
baths of 500ml water. Use fresh water for each piece. Then immerse in 250ml
sodium bi- carbonate. If it bubbles, rinse in water once more until no
bubbling occurs. Squeeze dry and spread on paper towels to dry overnight.
NITROGEN TRI-IODIDE
This is very shock sensitive when it
comes to being agitated, moved, dropped, touched, breathed on....etc. For
one thing I hope you don't do any of those. This has a high explosive value
to it. It can move a lot of mass with just a little compound. I have heard
so many different ways to make this, and this is the best one, I think.
Take a medium glass and fill it up with ammonium hydroxide (household ammonia).
Take some iodine crystals and pour about a fourth of the glass full. Wait
about 30 minutes to an hour then pour off the liquid remaining. Now, what
you have in the glass it called nitrogen tri-iodide, which is very sensitive
to touch. But, it is perfectly save when it is wet. Thats why you do not
let it dry until you want to use it. To detonate it just pour some of the
wet stuff on an object and wait till something agitates it. Remember too
much can harm a lot of things. It does pack a wallop!
NITROGLYCERIN
Nitroglycerin is a very high explosive.
It is used all around the world to do many different types of jobs. To
make nitro here is what you have to do: By weight, one part of glycerin
is nitrated with 6 parts of mixed acid. The mixed acid is composed of 40%
nitric and 60% sulfuric acid. The sulfuric acid is slowly added to the
nitric acid with constant stirring. Never mix them the other way round
for they will splatter. Each part of glycerin will yield 2.3 parts of nitroglycerin.
The temperature when adding the glycerin to the acids should never go above
25 degrees centigrade. If it does or if red fumes appear, the whole mess
should be dumped into cold waterfast. Do not take this as an encouragement
to make nitroglycerin. It is a dangerous procedure to mix all these types
of acids together and can easily be lost control of.
MAKING SULFURIC
ACID
No, your not really MAKING sulfuric
acid, you are just making it more con- centrated. All you need to do is
to take a old car battery and dump all of the acid into a GLASS bowl that
can be set on a stove. Do not use metal for unwant- ed occurances could
come about. Just take the old acid and boil it until you see white fumes
come out. When you do immediately turn off the heat and let it cool. One
thing, DO NOT use a gas stove. Use an electric hot plate and make it outside
because the fumes are very poisonous. T.N.T (Trinitrotoulene) Mix 170 parts
toulene with 100 parts acid. The acid being composed of: 2 parts 70% nitric
acid and 3 parts 100% sulfuric acid. Mix below 30 degrees. Set this for
30 minutes and let seperate. Take the mononitrotoluene and mix with 100
parts of it with 215 parts of acid. This acid being composed of: 1 part
pure nitric acid and 2 parts pure sulfuric acid. Keep the temperature at
60 - 70 degrees while they are slowly mixed.. Raise temperature to 90 -
100 degrees and stir for 30 minutes. The dinitrotoulene is seperated and
mixed with 100 parts of this with 225 parts of 20% oleum, which is 100%
sulfuric acid with 20% extra dissolved sulfur trioxide, and 64 parts nitric
acid. Heat at 95 degrees for 60 minutes and then at 120 degrees for 90
minutes. Seperate the trinitrotoluene and slosh it around in hotwater.
Purify the powder by soaking it in benzene. MERCURY FUMLINATE Mix 2 parts
of Nitric Acid with 2 part alcohol (any kind) and 1 part mer- cury. This
is very shock sensitive explosive. Be careful, Nitric Acid is an unstable
acid. It will react to agitation.
CHAPTER THREE
[INCENDARIES]
What is an incendairy? Those are compounds
that do not go "boom", but can burn fast and generate a lot of heat. For
example, thermite, its an incendairy, because it can produce temperatures
will up in the hundreds and can even melt metal.
NAPALM
This is just gasoline in a thickend
form. What it does is burn for long periods of time. If it is made right
I hear that water can't even put it out. What you do is take some polystyrine
(styrofoam) and place it in some unleaded gasoline (unleaded works better).
Keep feeding styrofoam to the gas until you can not feed any more at all.
At points it will look like thats all it can take, just wait for a minute
and let the other gas rise to the top. It will take a lot of stryrofoam
until you get what you want. When it is done, it will burn for a long time.
I would suggest that you do not place any on you because once it is lit
it will travel quite quickly since it melts the thickend gaso- line and
it rolls down. This is also fun to play with. The only problem with it,
is it gives off too much smoke.
THERMITE
This is the arsonists dream! Thermite
is a very hot mixture. Although it is slightly hard to get ignited, so
it is safe to transport it. Here is what you do: Thermite is made from
powdered aluminum and iron oxide (rust). Mix two parts by volume powdered
alumnium with three parts iron oxide. This stuff is hard to light, but
once you get it going don't plan on putting it out, be- cause it can produce
enough heat to melt through a steel plate. The finer the ingredients are
the easier it will be to ignite.
CHEMICALLY IGNITED
EXPLOSIVES
A mixture of 1 part potassium chlorate
to 3 parts table sugar (sucrose) burns fiercely and brightly (similar to
the burning of magnesium) when 1 drop of concentrated sulfuric acid is
placed on it. What occurs is this: when the acid is added it reacts with
the potassium chlorate to form chlorine dioxide, which explodes on formation,
burning the sugar as well.
CHAPTER FOUR [SMOKE
BOMBS]
So, you want a smoke screen? Well this
chapter will explain how many dif- ferent types of smoke can be made. Even
colored smoke.
SMOKE PRODUCER
The following reaction should produce
a fair amount of smoke. Since this reaction is not all that dangerous you
can use larger amounts if necessary for larger amounts of smoke. 6g zinc
powder 1g sulfur powder Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back.
A lot of smoke should be created.
SMOKE BOMB
This is the father of all smoke bombs.
Mix: 2 part Potassium Nitrate 1 Part Granulated sugar. Put this under a
very low heat source and melt the sugar and potassium nitrate. After it
is melted let it set and get hard. When it gets hard, just take outside
and hold a lit match on an area of the smoke bomb and wait till it lights.
You will know when it is about to ignite because the stuff turns black
and will then spit and sputter and smoke will pour out of the compound.
You also can light it without melting it but it burns too fast and will
make a hudge flame while the other one does not.
HTH CHLORINE SMOKE
BOMB
Take HTH pool chlorine and some non-silicon
brake fluid and mix the two to- gether in a ratio of 4 parts chlorine to
1 part brake fluid. When you mix the two together they will begin to sizzle
and then it will begin to smoke. It will take about 30 seconds to start
smoking fully. When it does begin to smoke it will produce a stinking cloud
of thick white smoke. If you do not be care- ful it could burst into flames
and burn what it is in. I suggest to place the mixture in a glass container
for it gets real hot. And anybody in their right mind will not go pick
it up and try to throw it when it has done smoking. The smoke is known
to last for over 2 minutes and is also toxic because it produces chlorine
gas, which is deadly!
CHLORINE + TURPENTINE
Take a small cloth or rag and soak
it in turpentine. Quickly drop it into the bottle of chlorine. It should
give off a lot of black smoke and probably start burning...
CHAPTER FIVE [BOMBS]
This is the point I really stress the
word saftey! At this point it should be well excercised and you had better
know what you are doing before you even at- tempt to construct some of
these devices. Remember that the law prohibits the manufacture and use
of such devices, and you could be breaking the law in some places. If you
do make on of the devices that is listed in here then I would suggest you
make a prototype and set that one off in the country and if it work- ed
correctly then make your final one and use it the way you had in mind.
GENERIC BOMB
Acquire a glass container. Put in a
few drops of gasoline. Cap the top and turn the container around to coat
the inner surface. Add a few drops of potassium permanganate (found in
a snake-bite kit) . To detonate just throw against a hard object. I hear
this is the same as a half stick of dynamite!
FIREBOMBS
Most firebombs are simply gasoline
filled bottles with a oil soaked rag in the mouth. The original firebomb
was one part gasoline and one part motor oil. The oil makes it splatter
and stick on what your trying to burn. Some use one part roofing tar or
one part melting wax to 2 parts gasoline.
PIPEBOMB
A pipe bomb is very easy to make. But
is also very dangerous! To construct a pipe bomb you will need a piece
of pipe about one foot long. Some fine gun powder, a solar ignitor, and
a battery. Cap one end of the pipe very good with a cap. Pour some gun
powder in the other end about little over the middle. Cap the pipe on the
other end and make a small hole in the middle of the pipe. Now wrap the
whole pipe in electric tape and make the hole again. Place in the head
of the solar ignitor in the hole. Tape the ignitor down so it will not
fall out. To ignite the bomb I suggest you take a VERY long wire and connect
it to the electrodes of the solar ignitor and run it very far away. Then
connect the battery at the other end of the wire. DO NOT touch the battery
to the electrodes of the bomb for even a second, because it WILL explode!!!
Remember take a long two conductor wire and connect it to the electrodes
and run it far away and then connect the battery to it. If you made it
correctly it will explode upon contact with the battery! Remember, this
can kill you. This also can do a lot of property damage.
CONTACT GERNADE
Materials: 2-3 in. section of pipe
PVC (for test and fun) Steel (for shrapnel) 12 guage shotgun shell (fitted
to pipe) marble ping pong ball cap for pipe 2-3 ft. ribbon (flights) explosive
charge (of personal preferance) a 1/2 or 1/4 cup petrol makes an excellent
charge when vaporized filling the pipe with gunpowder is simplest or any
STABLE flammable explosive one may have. This design is a modified pipebomb
which will be set off upon hard contact. This makes things much easier
than tossing molotove cocktails or lighting fuses as all you do is throw
it and it should detonate on contact. 1. cut the plastic of the shotgun
shell off of the primer and set aside. 2. carefully fit the primer into
one end of the pipe and epoxy securely. 3. glue the marble to the 'dimple'
of the primer. 4. cut the ping pong ball in half and then glue half onto
the marble to make a simple form of casing. 5. put explosive charge into
the hollow pipe (if useing gasoline use only 1/4 of the volume of pipe.
reason: 1gal. of gas vapor = 16 sticks dynamite!!!) 6. cap the pipe and
epoxy into place. 7. tie ribbon around tail section of pipe. Relax. Now
that its finished heres how it works. When thrown the grenade will come
down upon the point because of the tail flights. When it hits, the primer
will be crushed by the marble, setting it off. The primer then ignites
the explosive charge. I heartily recommend that PVC be used for testing
as the steel pipe is rather dangerous. This design is not a toy and should
not be built to be played with. If you want a toy just empty a shotgun
shell and tape a marble to the primer and throw. It ma kes a quasi-safe
firework.
CARBIDE BOMB
Obtain some calcium carbide. This is
the stuff that is used in carbide lamps and can be found at nearly any
hardware store. Take a few pieces and put it in a glass jar with some water.
Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will react with the water to produce
acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas used in curring torches.
Eventually the glass will explode from internal pressure. If you leave
a burning rag nearby, you will get a nice fireball.
HINDENBERG BOMB
Get, a balloon, bottle, liquid plumr,
foil, and a length of fuse. Fill the bottle 3/4 full with the liquid plumr
and add a little piece of alumninum foil. Put the balloon over the next
of the bottle until the balloon is full of the resulting gas. This is highly
flammable hydrogen. Now tie the balloon. Tape the fuse to the outside of
the inflated balloon and light. Let the balloon rise into the air. When
the fuse gets to the balloon and bursts it, the hydrogen will cause a fireball.
The Chemist's Corner Article #1: Explosives By Zaphod Beeblebrox/MPG This
article deals with the instructions for creating some dangerous explosives.
If you intend to make any of these explosives, do so in SMALL AMOUNTS ONLY,
as they are all dangerous and could seriously injure or kill you if done
in larger amounts. If you don't know anything about chemistry, DON'T DO
THESE EXPERIMENTS! I am not joking in giving this warning. Unless you have
a death wish, you shouldn't try any of the following unless you have had
prior experience with chemicals. I am not responsible for any injury or
damage caused by people using this information. It is provided for use
by people knowledgable in chemistry who are interested in such experiments
and can safely handle such experiments. ============================================================
I. Common "weak"
explosives.
A. Gunpowder: 75% Potassium Nitrate
15% Charcoal 10% Sulfur The chemicals should be ground into a fine powder
(seperately!) with a morter & pestle. If gunpowder is ignited in the
open, it burns fiercely, but if in a closed space it builds up pressure
from the released gases and can explode the container. Gunpowder works
like this: the potassium nitrate oxidizes the charcoal and sulfur, which
then burn fiercely. Carbon dioxide and sulfur dioxide are the gases released.
B. Ammonal: Ammonal is a mixture of
ammonium nitrate (a strong oxidizer) with aluminum powder (the 'fuel' in
this case). I am not sure of the % composition for Ammonal, so you may
want to experiment a little using small amounts.
C. Chemically ignited explosives:
1. A mixture of 1 part potassium chlorate
to 3 parts table sugar (sucrose) burns fiercely and brightly (similar to
the burning of magnesium) when 1 drop of concentrated sulfuric acid is
placed on it. What occurs is this: when the acid is added it reacts with
the potassium chlorate to form chlorine dioxide, which explodes on formation,
burning the sugar as well.
2. Using various chemicals, I have
developed a mixture that works very well for imitating volcanic eruptions.
I have given it the name 'MPG Volcanite' (tm). Here it is: potassium chlorate
+ potassium perchlorate + ammonium nitrate + ammonium dichromate + potassium
nitrate + sugar + sulfur + iron filings + charcoal + zinc dust + some coloring
agent. (scarlet= strontium nitrate, purple= iodine crystals, yellow= sodium
chloride, crimson= calcium chloride, etc...).
3. So, do you think water puts out
fires? In this one, it starts it. Mixture: ammonium nitrate + ammonium
chloride + iodine + zinc dust. When a drop or two of water is added, the
ammonium nitrate forms nitric acid which reacts with the zinc to produce
hydrogen and heat. The heat vaporizes the iodine (giving off purple smoke)
and the ammonium chloride (becomes purple when mixed with iodine vapor).
It also may ignite the hydrogen and begin burning. Ammonium nitrate: 8
grams Ammonium choride: 1 gram Zinc dust: 8 grams Iodine crystals: 1 gram
4. Potassium permanganate + glycerine
when mixed produces a purple-colored flame in 30 secs-1 min. Works best
if the potassium permanganate is finely ground.
5. Calcium carbide + water releases
acetylene gas (highly flammable gas used in blow torches...)
II. Thermite reaction.
The Thermite reaction is used in welding,
because it generates molten iron and temperatures of 3500 C (6000F+). It
uses one of the previous reactions that I talked about to START it! Starter=potassium
chlorate + sugar Main pt.= iron (III) oxide + aluminum powder (325 mesh
or finer) Put the potassium chlorare + sugar around and on top of the main
pt. To start the reaction, place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid
on top of the starter mixture. STEP BACK! The ratios are: 3 parts iron(III)
oxide to 1 part aluminum powder to 1 part potassium chlorate to 1 part
sugar. When you first do it, try 3g:1g:1g:1g! Also, there is an alternative
starter for the Thermite reaction. The alter-native is potassium permanganate
+ glycerine. Amounts: 55g iron(III) oxide, 15g aluminum powder, 25g potassium
per-manganate, 6ml glycerine.
III. Nitrogen-containing
high explosives.
A. Mercury(II) Fulminate To produce
Mercury(II) Fulminate, a very sensitive shock explosive, one might assume
that it could be formed by adding Fulminic acid to mercury. This is somewhat
difficult since Fulminic acid is very unstable and cannot be pur-chased.
I did some research and figured out a way to make it without fulminic acid.
You add 2 parts nitric acid to 2 parts alcohol to 1 part mercury. This
is theoretical (I have not yet tried it) so please, if you try this, do
it in very* small amounts and tell me the results.
B. Nitrogen Triiodide Nitrogen Triiodide
is a very powerful and very shock sensitive explosive. Never store it and
be carful when you're around it- sound, air movements, and other tiny things
could set it off. Materials- 2-3g Iodine 15ml conc. ammonia 8 sheets filter
paper 50ml beaker feather mounted on a two meter pole ear plugs tape spatula
stirring rod Add 2-3g Iodine to 15ml ammonia in the 50ml beaker. Stir,
let stand for 5 minutes. DO THE FOLLOWING WITHIN 5 MINUTES! Retain the
solid, decant the liquid (pour off the liquid but keep the brown solid...).
Scape the brown residue of Nitrogen Triiodide onto a stack of four sheets
of filter paper. Divide solid into four parts, putting each on a seperate
sheet of dry filter paper. Tape in position, leave to dry undisturbed for
AT LEAST 30 minutes (preferrably longer). To detonate, touch with feather.
(WEAR EAR PLUGS WHEN DETONATING OR COVER EARS- IT IS VERY LOUD!)
C. Cellulose Nitrate (Guncotton) Commonly
known as Smokeless powder, Nitrocellulose is exactly that- it does not
give off smoke when it burns. Materials- 70ml concentrated sulfuric acid
30ml concentrated nitric acid 5g absorbent cotton 250ml 1M sodium bicarbonate
250ml beaker ice bath tongs paper towels Place 250ml beaker in the ice
bath, add 70ml sulfuric acid, 30 ml nitric acid. Divide cotton into .7g
pieces. With tongs, immerse each piece in the acid solution for 1 minute.
Next, rinse each piece in 3 successive baths of 500ml water. Use fresh
water for each piece. Then immerse in 250ml 1M sodium bicarbonate. If it
bubbles, rinse in water once more until no bubbling occurs. Squeeze dry
and spread on paper towels to dry overnight.
D. Nitroglycerine Nitroglycerine is
a *VERY* dangerous shock sensitive explosive. It is used in making dynamite,
among other things. I am not sure as to the proportions and amounts of
chemicals to be used, so I shall use estimates. Materials- 70ml conc. sulfuric
acid 30ml conc. nitric acid 10 ml glycerine ice bath 150ml beaker Put the
150ml beaker in the ice bath and make sure that it is very cold. Slowly
add the 70ml sulfuric and 30ml nitric acids to the beaker, trying to maintain
a low temperature. When the temperature starts to level off, add about
10ml glycerine. If it turns brown or looks funny, **RUN LIKE HELL**. When
Nitroglycerine turns brown, that means it's ready to explode... If it stays
clear and all works well, keep the temperature as low as you can and let
it sit for a few hours. You then should have some Nitrogl ycerine, probably
mixed with nitric and sulfuric acids. When you set it off, you must not
be nearby. Nitroglycerine can fill 10,000 times its original area with
expanding gases. This means that if you have 10ml's of Nitroglycerine in
there, it will produce some 100,000ml's of gases. To make it into dynamite,
the Nitroglycerine must be absorbed into something like wood pulp or diamaeceous
earth (spelled something like that).
IV. Other stuff
A. Peroxyacetone
Peroxyacetone is extremely flammable
and has been reported to be shock sensitive. Materials- 4ml Acetone 4ml
30% Hydrogen Peroxide 4 drops conc. hydrochloric acid 150mm test tube Add
4ml acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to the test tube. Then add 4 drops
concentrated hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid should begin
to appear. If no change is observed, warm the test tube in a water bath
at 40 celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours. Swirl the
slurry and filter it. Leave out on filter paper to dry for at least two
hours. To ignite, light a candle tied to a meter stick and light it (while
staying at least a meter away).
B. Smoke smoke
smoke...
The following reaction should produce
a fair amount of smoke. Since this reaction is not all that dangerous you
can use larger amounts if necessary for larger amounts of smoke. 6g zinc
powder 1g sulfur powder Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back.
A lot of smoke should be created.
There are many other experiments I could have included, but I will save them for the next Chemibt's Corner article. Upcoming articles will include Glow-in-the-dark reactions, 'party' reactions, things you can do with household chemicals, and more... I would like to give credit to a book by Shakashari entitled "Chemical Demonstrations" for a few of the precise amounts of chemicals in some experiments. This is it for Chemist's Corner #1... look for Chemist's Corner #2: What to do with household chemicals... ...Zaphod Beeblebrox/MPG! Wasteland Underground The Chemist's Corner Article #2: Household chemicals By Zaphod Beeblebrox/MPG This article deals with instructions on how to do some interesting experiments with common household chemicals. Some may or may not work depending on the concentration of certain chemicals in different areas and brands. I would suggest that the person doing these experiments have some knowledge of chemistry, especially for the more dangerous experiments. I am not responsible for any injury or damage caused by people using this information. It is provided for use by people knowledgable in nchemistry who are interested in such experiments and can safely handle such experiments. ============================================================
I. A list of household chemicals and their composition
Vinegar: 3-5% acetic acid
Baking soda: sodium bicarbonate
Drain cleaners: sodium hydroxide
Sani-flush: 75% sodium bisulfate
Ammonia water: ammonium hydroxide
Citrus fruit: citric acid
Table salt: sodium chloride
Sugar: sucrose
Milk of Magnesia- magnesium hydroxide
Tincture of iodine- 47% alcohol, 4%
iodine
Rubbing alcohol- 70 or 99% (depends
on brand) isopropyl alcohol (DO NOT DRINK!) etc...
EXP #1: Ye old
fizz experiment
Mix vinegar with baking soda. It produces
sodium acetate and carbonicacid. Carbonic acid quickly decomposes into
carbon dioxide and water, resulting in the "fizz". This simple reaction
can be contained in a small bottle or something, and when enough pressure
builds up it will break open. I sincerely doubt that it will blow "all
four walls off the house" as some loser wrote in his Safehouse article.
The same basic thing can be done with dry ice & water, baking powder
& water, citric acid & baking soda, and many other combinations.
EXP #2: A fruity
battery
If you're ever in need of a little
power, get your hands on these: a citrus fruit (lemon, orange, etc) a small
zinc strip a small copper strip Just stick the zinc strip in one end of
a lemon and a copper strip in the other. You now have a 1.5 volt battery!
Just attach the wires to the copper & zinc strips...
EXP #3: Generating
chlorine gas
This is slightly more dangerous than
the other two experiments, so you should know what you're doing befove
you try this... Ever wonder why ammonia bottles always say 'DO NOT mix
with chlorine bleach', and visa-versa? That's because if you mix ammonia
water with Ajax or something like it, it will give off chlorine gas. To
capture it, get a large bottle and put Ajax in the bottom. Then pour some
ammonia down into the bottle. Since the chlorine is heavier than air, it
will stay down in there unless you use large amounts of either Ajax or
ammonia (DON'T!). For something fun to do with chlorine stay tuned....
EXP #4: Chlorine
+ turpentine
Take a small cloth or rag and soak
it in turpentine. Quickly drop it into the bottle of chlorine. It should
give off a lot of black smoke and probably start burning...
EXP #5: Generating
hydrogen gas
To generate hydrogen, all you need
is an acid and a metal that will react with that acid. Try vinegar (acetic
acid) with zinc, aluminum, magnesium, etc. You can collect hydrogen in
something if you note that it is lighter than air.... Light a small amount
and it burns with a small *pop*. Another way of creating hydrogen is by
the electrolysis of water. This involves seperating water (H2O) into hydrogen
and oxygen by an electric current. To do this, you need a 6-12 volt battery,
two test tubes, a large bowl, two carbon electrodes (take them out of an
unworking 6-12 volt battery), and table salt. Dissolve the salt in a large
bowl full of water. Submerge the two test tubes in the water and put the
electrodes inside them, with the mouth of the tube aiming down. Connect
the battery to some wire going down to the electrodes. This will work for
a while, but chlorine will be generated along with the oxygen which will
undoubtedly corrode your copper wires leadino to the carbon electrodes...
(the table salt is broken up into chlorine and sodium ions, the chlorine
comes off as a gas with oxygen while sodium reacts with the water to form
sodium hydroxide....). Therefore, if you can get your hands on s ome sulfuric
acid, use it instead. It will not affect the reaction other than making
the water conduct electricity.
EXP #6: Hyrdogen
+ chlorine
Take the test tube of hydrogen and
cover the mouth with your thumb. Keep it inverted, and bring it near the
bottle of chlorine (not one that has reacted with turpentine). Say "goodbye
test tube", and drop it into the bottle. The hydrogen and chlorine should
react and possibly explode (depending on purity and amount of each gas).
An interesting thing about this is they will not react if it is dark and
no heat or other energy is around. When a light is turned on, enough energy
is present to cause them to react...
EXP #7: Preparation
of oxygen
Get some hydrogen peroxide (from a
drug store) and manganese dioxide (from a battery- it's a black powder).
Mix the two in a bottle, and they give off oxygen. If the bottle is stoppered,
pressure will build up and shoot it off. Try lighting a wood splint and
sticking it (when only glowing) into the bottle. The oxygen will make it
burst into flame. Experiment with it. The oxygen will allow things to burn
better...
EXP #8: Alcohol
Buy some rubbing alcohol in a drug
store. Usually this is either 70% or 99% alcohol and burns just great.
You can soak a towel in water and then in acohol, light the towel, and
when it finishes burning the alcohol, the flame should go out and leave
the towel unharmed. Nice for "party tricks", etc.
EXP #9: Iodine?
Tincture of iodine contains mainly
alcohol and a little iodine. To seperate them, put the tincture of iodine
in a metal lid to a bottle and heat it over a candle. Have a stand holding
another metal lid directly over the tincture (about 4-6 inches above it)
with ice on top of it. The alcohol should evaporate, and the iodine should
sublime, but should reform iodine crystals on the cold metal lid directly
above. If this works (I haven't tried), you can use the iodine along with
household ammonia to form Nitrogen Triiodide (discussed in article #1).
EXP #10: Grain-elevator
explosion!
Want to try your own 'grain-elevator
explosion'? Get a candle and some flour... Light the candle and put some
flour in your hand. Try various ways of getting the flour to leave your
hand and become dust right over the candle flame. The enormous surface
area allows all the tiny dust particles to burn, which they do at about
the same time, combining to form a fireball effect. In grain elevators,
much the same thing happens. If you can get your hands on some lycopodium
powder, do. This will work much better, creating huge fireballs that are
unexpected. That's enough for now... more to come in later Chemist's Corner
articles... ...Zaphod Beeblebrox/MPG! Wasteland Underground <->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->
Fun Ways to Kill
a Fellow Human Transcribed by: Intrepid <->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->
Well, this is an old text file I had from my early Apple days, and thought
I'd bring it to IBM.. I dunno if its already out there, but I havent seen
it.. Disclaimer > None of these methods have been tested by me, or anyone
I know, but if you really hate someone, you can just go through all of
em till hes dead.. <-> Beginning of Actual textfile <-> ..If he/she
races BMX, string a 60 pound test line across a jump or in the middle of
the track... ..Staple his mouth to the tail-pipe of your BMW, and put a
piece of tape across his nose, then drive about 20 miles at top-speed,
by this time, his mouth should be enmeshed with the tail-pipe, his knuckles,
knees and feet will be practically non-existent from dragging on the ground,
AND he'll be quite dead from inhaling all the carbon monoxide.. (Int -
wouldn't a mac truck be funner??) ..Make concrete blocks out of his hands,
then hang him from a bridge across a not too well travelled road, by his
feet. Set him swinging and wait for the next truck or van.. (Int - bunji
cords sound fun) ..Hang him spread eagle off a diving board, with a weight
tied around his stomach. If the board is low enough, you should be able
to bounce up and down on the board, and watch him drown slowly.. ..Tie
a rope around his neck straight up to the top of the sailboat, and strap
his feet to the floor, straight in the middle of the boat. Every time the
sail comes around, it should hit him quite hard in the head. I recommend
this only for very windy days.. ..Use him as a marker in a giant slalom
ski race.. ..Slide razor blades across his back for about 20 minutes, then
give him the choice of shooting himself in the head, or being thrown into
a bath-tub full of gin.. ..Tie him up spread eagle in front of a pitching
machine, in such a way that the tip of his nose is about 2 inches away
from the barrel.. ..Tie him up, and handcuff him. Then put his fingers
between the type-head of an old-fashioned, and the paper. You might like
typing out your opinions of him, while he suffers.. ..Take a pair of handcuffs
and put them on his feet. Then strap a rope between them, so you hold on
to the rope. Go on Space Mountain in Disney Land, and drag him off the
back. If you get tired or scared, just let go, its only a 80 or 90 foot
drop to the concrete.. ..Steal all the jacls at the Indy 500 and use him
as a replacement.. ..If he happens to be a sadist, pluck off his arms and
legs, just as he probably did to flies.. ..String up his locker, so that
when HE opens it up, a mouse trap snaps out and grabs him by the you know
what.. ..Bury him standing up 8 feet deep in sand, then make a wider area
around his head about 2 feet deep. Pry his eyes open with something (preferably
infectious) and pour in salt. THEN let in 6 rats, and watch them gouge
his eyes for food.. ..Tie rubber-bands around his ankles (really strong
and long ones, MUST be used for this, about 10 feet long